1070 replies to this topic

[vamose]

(XS)s0lid, on Mar 14 2009, 04:01 PM, said:

I'm currently working with same project
Worklog is here if you wanna have a look:

http://www.xtremesys...ad.php?t=220390

Got one solution for ethernet connector:

Tear it open, remove black box saying Midcom 7277-30, that's an magnetic isolator.
Then just solder cables directly to green pcb =)

Picture:
http://s0lid.bx.fi/k...?size=1280x1024

Works like charm, tested with Via Epia-M

Unable to vies, can you kindly repost.

[grady.lynch]

neil43, on Dec 21 2010, 08:44 PM, said:

Another G5 Power Mac Hackintosh - done my way.

I have read this thread from start to finish (maybe more then once).  My hack is just that, it is done my way and I followed or ignored the guidance found here.   However I think this thread is one of best on this forum.

I won't bore you with anything but a quick summary and a few photos.   My hack is based upon a Micro ATX Gigabyte P55M-UD2 mother board with an i7-875, 8GB memory, Zotac 9600 GT video card, Thermaltake TR2 600W PSU, 2 SIIG Dual 2.5" SATA Docks, 2 Intel 40GB SSDs in RAID-0, LG DVD RW optical drive, Titan Fenrir CPU cooler, 2 92mm Delta 12V low speed fans mounted in the modded rear fan bracket and running the original Apple power supply fans on 5V in the lower tray.  

My objective was to retain the spirit of the original but not be tied down on any one issue.  Meaning I cut the whole back panel out and reused the rear fan bracket assembly (molding as needed).  I took the ATX PSU out of its case and put in place of the Apple PSU.  Dressed all of the cables for minimum visibility and installed modesty panels to hide them.  Used a front panel cable assembly purchased from  AlohaCab, an active InsanleyMac Member.   Bluetooth on a Kensington USB adapter.   I added a hidden optical drive eject button along with an optical drive activity LED.

The system is at OS X 10.6.5 with all updates.  

I intend to upgrade to a XFX Radeon HD 5770 and add two 2.5"  500 GB hard drives as they become available at prices that I like.  The plan is to use this as my main home machine while I work on the next project (TBD).  I use a 4 port Avocent KVM DVI switch with 4 hacks attached (usually only one or two are power up).

neil

Great Mod!!!

Only one question.

What tool did you use to cut the upper divider (the one that supports the DVD drive) to make room for the mobo?

[neil43]

grady.lynch, on Feb 7 2011, 06:10 PM, said:

Great Mod!!!

Only one question.

What tool did you use to cut the upper divider (the one that supports the DVD drive) to make room for the mobo?

The upper divider is intact, just two holes drilled for the thumb screws that secure the mounting plate for the dual 2.5 inch mobile racks.  The motherboard and its mounting plate are nearly contacting the upper divider as can be seen in this photo.  There is enough space under the motherboard plate to route the SATA cables.  

neil

Attached Files

•  G5_HackUpperShelf.jpg   90.18K   149 downloads

[rorydaredking]

Just updated mine. Moved the hdd's to the hdd rack, and one is on top of my blu ray drive. so all my sata cables go to the top shelf now. pus is still stuck to the bottom. Also, today I wired all the fans correctly, so tomorrow going to maplin to pick up some molex connectors so I can stick them in properly. They are so quiet, cant wait to get rid of my stupid cpu and gpu fans. Then ill post a picture of my setup. Oh also, cut a hole in the back for my usb etc after mountin the gpu correctly in the pci-e slot. This was all brought about by my glue holding my mobo standoffs to the case being {censored} and falling off so I decided to completely renovate

[dawiinci]

Some really great mods I found here.

I'm still planning how to do it. Please tell me what you think about this plan.

Version 1
I don't want to touch the rear panel. Which means I don't use the expansion slots and don't use the connectors (except USB for practical reasons). By this I can maintain the look and the fan positions.

The ATX mainboard is mounted on a mainboard tray inside but shifted to the left. This gives me the ability to connect all cables inside the case. I need to make a support for the expansion slots so the tension of the cables isn't a problem. The support is mounted from the top to the bottom. On this support I can screw the expansion cards or maybe I will find a tray with an included support.

The cables enter the case  through a hole at the bottom. The cables are secured against tension. This way I don't have all cables cluttered and the back is clean as vanilla. The cables are tied together on their way to the cable channel. Maybe I connect the power supply from the original connector so I can disconnect the computer from the power source.

The only downside is I have to open if I change a cable but this happens very rarely. The USB and audio in the front and the back will be functional so no problems at all.

The power supply is at the rear end so the air goes out directly. Harddisks can be mounted at the top and maybe I add a cage somewhere else.


I'm sure some of you thought about this too. Do you think there is anything wrong with this plan?

[GrootWitBaas]

sound good to me. I also believe the back should stay.

[dawiinci]

I have to make on design change. The cables enter through the "power hole" at the bottom instead through the floor. This avoids to have visible cables on the floor, the cables don't have to bend and it' more accessible.

Only problem is that I can't do this with the DVI-Cable. The hole is too small. I don't want to cut it because it would damage the cables if i just make it bigger.

[GrootWitBaas]

get a backplate with dvi to dvi that you can put on the original back plane, and then to the DVI. This avoids any cuts and it will look neat.

There is a example of this on one of these threads, I'll see if I can find it and link it here Here on post 356 page 18
by nervouschimp

There are more, but this should give the general idea

Groot

[dawiinci]

Thanks for that. However it's difficult to get those. The only ones I could get are either very expensive or too long.

Displayport would probably fit.

[okolowicz]

Could someone with experience modding the top shelf tell me whether the latches and/or latch mechanism for the side panel are part of the shelf or independent of the shelf (i.e. just part of the divider bar).

I'd like remove the shelf and replace it with a flat shelf. However, I don't want to remove it simply to find out the latch mechanism is incorporated into the shelf in a way that would require either an obscene amount of modding to keep them functional.

Thx

[dawiinci]

okolowicz, on Mar 2 2011, 03:04 AM, said:

...
I'd like remove the shelf and replace it with a flat shelf. However, I don't want to remove it simply to find out the latch mechanism is incorporated into the shelf in a way that would require either an obscene amount of modding to keep them functional.
...

This might help you: http://www.insanelym...p...4525&st=79#



I have the problem that HDD is vibrating. Is there any easy way to fix that?

[GrootWitBaas]

Short answer Yes if you replace it with a SSD

But on the specific drive no, not easy. It should not vibrate if it is working correctly so I will suggest you replace it soon

[dawiinci]

GrootWitBaas, on Mar 3 2011, 07:21 AM, said:

Short answer Yes if you replace it with a SSD

But on the specific drive no, not easy. It should not vibrate if it is working correctly so I will suggest you replace it soon

Well I guess I'm very sensitive to it so I hear the least vibration from fans or HDDs. However I removed the HDD tray (not so easy without removing the separator) and inserted a tray that sits on rubber. No vibrations anymore. I will soon enhance it by a SSD but I can't replace the traditional HDD because I need more space.


DVI: I think I will cut the cable and splice it back together. I don't want to cut anything on the case because it makes no sense. My next graphics will for sure have Displayport. I have some cables in spare if it doesn't work.

Cooling: I have two 120 fans in the front, one for the graphics (passive) and one for the CPU (low rpm). Remember my motherboard is at the left side so the cool air points directly on the hottest parts of the system.

One 80 cools the HDD (in the middle at the top shelf) and two fans (120/80) take out the hot air from the PSU and the rest of the case. The PSU is not blowing out directly.  

What do you think could I save the one 80 or even both fans in the back? My plan is the air that comes in has to go out anyway. I just have a 120 in the rear for the PSU. All Fans run @5V.

[GrootWitBaas]

I had no vibrations from the g5 before it packed in, and I was using noisy old drives. I will reuse the same tray as it worked nicely. not sure if you use the original hdd tray

[dawiinci]

GrootWitBaas, on Mar 4 2011, 09:15 AM, said:

I had no vibrations from the g5 before it packed in, and I was using noisy old drives. I will reuse the same tray as it worked nicely. not sure if you use the original hdd tray

Yes, I used the original tray. Compared to now I heard much more rattling noise and a constant vibration. The disk isn't damaged it's just a server model. However this disk is only temporarily. The original cage had another bad effect: the cooling was much worse. I think all the plastic is just a good insulator and it also blocks the air flow. It's about 6° C cooler now.

Interesting is because I removed the two fans at the top I could lower the CPU temperature by 3° C. I guess it's because hot air flows to the top shelf. (the fans didn't work properly - were too loud @5V)

Overall the temperatures in this case are fantastic.

EDIT:
I managed to fit the DVI cable through the hole for the power connector. I just removed the plastic from the plug and removed the metal bezel. It fits perfectly and it is almost no effort to do it. Now all my cables enter through this hole at the bottom, the back is vanilla clean and the cables are easy to hide.

[Technochicken]

Here's my G5 mod.  I tried to keep it looking as stock as possible.  I rewired all the fans to run off 5V, although I ended up not using the HDD fans because of clearance issues.  Everything on the front panel works except for audio, which I can't seem to figure out.  This case actually is holding a full length ATX motherboard, but I don't use the last three slots.  
Specs:
Phenom II X3 710
Gigabyte GA MA770-UD3
GeForce 9800GTX+
Geforce 8500gt
4 Gb DDR2 667
CoolIt E.C.O.
320 + 500  Gb HDD's

[eelhead]

Looks great man awesome job!

[zammykoo]

Technochicken, on Apr 8 2011, 12:09 PM, said:

Everything on the front panel works except for audio, which I can't seem to figure out.

Very clean!

Did you hook the audio wires to your F_AUDIO slot on the mobo?

If you are and still not working it could also be a software setting. If you're running windows you can try and check this box: "Disable front panel jack detection" in your audio manager settings. It worked for me.

[Technochicken]

zammykoo, on Apr 8 2011, 04:05 PM, said:

If you are and still not working it could also be a software setting. If you're running windows you can try and check this box: "Disable front panel jack detection" in your audio manager settings. It worked for me.

That worked.  Thanks for the tip!

[zammykoo]

Technochicken, on Apr 8 2011, 03:57 PM, said:

That worked.  Thanks for the tip!

no problem, glad it worked out for you