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THE GREAT GUIDE
SIERRA + Z820
(from El capitan's guide)
Yes I know. Maybe it is a little late for Sierra but I need a stable system and I always go to for final release. In my opinion, High Sierra is a beta. Anyway, yes, it’s late, but I didn’t have too much time last year.
WORK- Everything except Sleep and common graphical issues.
Some important topics:
1. The update.
Some procedures are now easier and shorter, and with the help of DSDT patched, an/or DSDT auto-patches, I hope it will be easier for everybody. This is a guide DSDT-centric. If you have the right bios version, you will be able to get it quick and easy. If not, I’ve described how do it anyway. But I strongly recommend update the bios to 3.91. It´s a safe process from windows.
I’m not an expert. Best improves of this guide has been possible thanks to some people. All credit for them.
-Thanks for the audio fix for macpeet and Rockey12
-Thanks for the Lsi driver patched for Sierra to despeinao
-Thanks for DSDT patching to Maldon
-Thanks for SSDT patching info for 26x7 and 26x3 models to Hugodlc
3. Please, help to improve this guide.
Consider any part of this guide open to discuss. If you see something wrong, or which could be improved, please, just say it, and I’ll fix it.
English is not my native language. If you can’t understand some step, or something could be best written, please, just say it (via pm if you want ) and I’ll fix it too
4. Some important considerations about hardware:
In short, there are V1 versions (for E5-Xeons V1, Sandy Bridge) and V2 (for E5-Xeons V2, Ivy bridge). Both of them are identical in generic specs (audio, usb, ethernet, pci, etc), but their bios are slightly different. Remember that DSDT is related to bios version. And SSDT is related to CPU model. Don’t exchange them. I provided DSDTs for 3.91 in V1 and V2 versions. If you have other version, and you don’t want or you can’t update, just follow the full guide to patch your DSDT.
Anyway, with patches, edit DSDT is easy. But, I’m still recommeding extract your DSDT and SSDT and patch them.
IMPORTANT WARNING FOR 26x7 and 26x3 USERS!!!. These models have a special cpu definitions in SSDT, causing the “Should have XX threads but only found YY” error. Please, go to Appendix (under construction).
5. And please, (this is for "anonymous" users) don't PM me with questions. No need for that. Any question can be answered openly.
Ok, let’s go.
This guide is for UEFI systems. This is not important to follow this guide except in Clover installation section. Keep in mind it to adapt some settings if you need use legacy-bios mode.
If you don’t need any special option, and you have been playing with options, reset the bios to default settings.
6. The main BIOS options are:
In storage options:
set ACHI mode (IMPORTANT). Set boot order. UEFI first, (for me), USB first and HD second.
Device Security: I like disable unused devices (scu controller Disable Vt-d. IMPORTANT
and serial port). Optional
Disable Secure boot. Enabled. (For boot with non signed OS). In power options:
I use UEFI boot, but I keep legacy support active. Set Runtime power management to Enabled.This option will allow Power
(This is optional.) Management later.
In power options: In Advanced:
About the rest of options, I’m not sure of the impact in Set PXE, Storage and Video to EFI. (for me).
performance. If you have a graphic card non EFI-compliant, you can set video
in Legacy, keeping an UEFI boot.
Don’t forget set thunderbolt policy in Legacy mode.
7- MEDIA CREATION
(This guide assume you have a MacOs running. I have no idea how do it on PC)
-Important: Download Sierra dmg only from Apple. Don´t use suspicious dmgs or Isos. It’s not longer available to search in Apple Store, but you can find one link to download it from Apple Store. ("get os mac os sierra" link) It’s 10.12.6. Let the file in Applications folder. (and keep one compressed copy for future attempts).
-Download my stuff folder with all necessary stuff.
-Format one USB stick with common settings:
Go to erase tab, select GUID partition table in options, and Mac Os Extended (Journaled) as Filesystem. Name the partition as “USB”. Ok to Apply.
-On a terminal window, type (copy and paste) :
sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Sierra.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/USB --applicationpath /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Sierra.app --nointeraction -Enter and type your admin password. It will take 10-15 minutes. (When it finish, you’ll see the prompt again)
8. INSTALL CLOVER.
-Download Clover from here . Version used to make this guide: Clover_v2.4k_r4359 ((Sierra requires r3994 or newer) )
-Download Clover Configurator from here. It makes easier edit config.plist file
-Download plisteditor pro demo for edit info.plist files.
-Download additional tools for instal kexts, fix permission and rebuild cache. I use Kext helper from rampage’s dmg, although I need always forcequit. An alternative is Kext Utility.
-Maybe EFI mounter (from download sections). CloverConfigurator mounts EFI too, but maybe with this utility is easier.
-Install Clover in the USB. On first screen, don’t forget change the install location in order to do not install on your Internal HD. Select your USB stick.
-Click on Customize.
-Choose “Install for UEFI booting only” and “Install Clover in the ESP” as main options (if your system is UEFI-based)
-This is optional: choose your favorite Theme.
-In Drivers64UEFI select: / EmuVariableUefi-64 / OsxAptionFix2Drv
Let the rest of option unselected and Click on Install.
9- CONFIGURE CLOVER
When clover finish, It will mount EFI partition. Time to modify it. You’ll find all necessary files in my folder. There are three things to modify: config.plist, drivers, and kexts
-Owners of CPU models 26x7 or 26x3 see appendix 2. (It’s not finished yet)
The default config.plist is not useful for us. Replace it by mine (folder n.2)
But take a look to options (with clover configurator) to understand my options in order to be able to adapt them for your specs or your preferences. It’s a basic config.plist. I could add more options or fixes. but is a good idea install with minimum options.
All fixes in ACPI section has been removed except some minor fixes in 2 subsection, smart ups option, etc. SmartUps it’s not important now, but it will be later. So I prefer activate this option.
The most important, The rename usb devices patches are included.
Bootflags needed are only -v and npci=0x2000. Of course -v is optional only to see the boot process. You can deactivate it when you finish.
Any option activated in Boot Graphics/ Cpu/Device/Disable driver
Gui options. These are only personal preferences.
Graphics. Any Graphic injection and any option activated. At least, no needed for my 1080ti card. Check it out for your card video.
An essential section. Kernels Patches needed
RT Variables booterConfig, and Csr to deactivate security policy in Sierra. The info values are taken from smbios.
One important change from El cap’s guide. SMBIOS is set to Mac Pro 6,1. We will be able to avoid the black screen later, with the right kexts.
IMPORTANT—> press “generate new” repeatedly to get one random fresh serial number
9.2 -Drivers64UEFI folder.
You’ll see more drivers installed than you selected. That is because some of them are mandatories. That is fine.
As usual, delete VBoxHfs-64 driver and replace it by HFSPlus.efi. (from my folder).
Add Kexts from my stuff to /EFI/CLOVER/Kexts/10.12
-FakeSMC.kext ,(from rampagdev, dual cpu dmg or X79 ) Without lpc sensor plugin. This plugin sometimes causes KP
-VoodooTSCync.kext, to avoid boot with -x (from rampagdev, dual cpu dmg or X79.dmg)
You’ll find several versions into my folder. One generic version ans several for every core number. I haven’t noticed any change using the generic or the specific version. I think that is not important for our platform. I provided the generic version and customized versions for every cpu.
Anyway, try if you want.The customize method is:
First Hackintosh ever and first PC build in a very long time. Initial setup worked OOB, but tweaking—especially Thunderbolt—was somewhat painful at times. I hope this helps others too
I set this up for video production and image processing, not for gaming, so some parts of the system might look wimpy and others will be overkill. Also, I plan to dial back some of the overclocking; these settings are as far as I could go.
The links are meant to see the exact same product as I used, but are not affiliate links—nor do I endorse anything. I'm just sending you to places where you can see what I tried and used.
CoffeeLake 8700k (5.4 GHz multi-core O.C.)
Single-core / Multi-core 7,153 / 33,395 (all-time high: 34,110)
GTX1080 w/ UHD630
Cinebench R15 160 fps / 1,744 cb / 229 cb
LuxBall (default compiler settings)
Heaven / Valley
Note that all numbers vary a little on each run. Also, my system is not “bare bones,” and I have schedulers and extensions running in the background, which can influence results as well. Cf. screenshots for multiple runs.
Intel Core i7-8700K Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.7 GHz (4.7 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I78700K Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117827, $389.99 Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 7 rev. 1.0 BIOS F5h, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145036, $219.99 G.Skill TridentZ 4x 16GB DDR4 CL16 — F4-3200C16D-32GTZSK, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232415, $479.99 (total), O.C. at 3300 EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming iCX 11GHz — 08G-P4-6686-KR, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487319, $549.99, top PCIe 16x slot — O.C. 2113 MHz (see note below) Fenvi FV9801 802.11AC WiFi / Bluetooth PCIe card, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734FNBW8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $17.99, middle PCIe 1x slot
Vantec 2 Channel 4-Port SATA 6Gbps PCIe — UGT-ST622, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AEBY1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $20.60, top PCIe 1x slot Gigabyte GC-Alpine Ridge Thunderbolt 3 PCIe, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019955RNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $70.00, bottom PCIe 16x slot — has to go there and no where else; invalidates lower M.2 slot.
Overclock Settings (Delidded CPU)
Dr. Delid PROFESSIONAL tool for Kaby Lake, Skylake und Coffee Lake processors, https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3663, $35.20 Arctic Silver Arcticlean Thermal material Remover & Surface Purifier ACN-60ML (2-PC-SET), https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100010, $8.99 Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Thermal Grease Paste - 1.0 Gram, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A9KIGSI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $14.89 Gorilla Super Glue Brush & Nozzle, 10 g, Clear, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A7AVQKA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $3.19
cf. screenshots; I have deliberately not included full O.C. settings; for the record, this is not something that I encourage and I am therefore not responsible in any way, shape, or form for any bad outcomes you may experience. Just sayin’…
Drives - Boot
Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 PCIe 1TB — MZ-V6E1T0BW, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147595, $399.99, boot with MacOS, top M.2 slot under thermal shield WD Blue 3D M.2 SATA 500GB — WDS500G2B0B, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820250091, $164.99, boot with Win10, middle M.2 slot LG 14x SATA Blu-Ray internal burner OEM — WH14NS40, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136250, $19.99, to boot with CDs
Drives - Other
Toshiba OCZ RD400 NVMw M.2 PCIe 256GB — RVD400-M22280-256G, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G3HLP0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $134.99 Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB SATA III — MZ-75E500B/AM, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147373, $129.99 Toshiba X300 6TB SATA Internal, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149629, $169.99 StarTech USB 3.0 Internal Multi-Card Reader with UHS-II Support, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NLXC5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $29.36 StarTech 3.5-Inch to 5.25-Inch Floppy Mounting Kit Bracket (Black Plastic), https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HLZXH2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $6.26, needed to install Multi-Card reader COSMOS desktop computer ATX/MATX companion, blank drawer rack (5.25"), for computer accessories/storage devices, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VAD2C6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $11.74
Case / Power / Cooling
Corsair Carbide 330R Titanium Edition CC-9011071-WW Black Steel, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139053, $79.99 Corsair Carbide Series 300R Left side panel with dual 120mm/140mm fan mounts, black, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/300r-left-side-panel-with-dual-120mm-140mm-fan-mounts-black, $9.99 Corsair HX1200 Platinum — CP-9020140-NA, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139205, $179.99 (overkill, but I got a deal on it) G.Skill FTB-3500C5-DR, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1K64263994, $20.74, on DDR4 Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler, w/ Liquid Metal (see Delid note), https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019955RNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $139.99, under top lid Corsair ML140 CO-9050044-WW 140mm Premium Magnetic Levitation PWM Fan BLACK (2-Pack), https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181111, $29.99 3x Phanteks PH-CB-Y4P 4.3" 4 Pin PWM- Y Splitter Fan Cable Female to Male, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812987008, $14.97 (total) SilverStone 140mm Fan Filter with Magnet for Case Fan/Power Supply Fan and Panel Air Vent FF141B (Black), https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GGUASG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $10.97, screwed onto the outside of the ventilated 300R panel SilverStone 21-Inch x 15-Inch 4mm Thick 2-Piece Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Silent Foam SF01 (Black), https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040JHMH6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1,$15.99, stuck on inside of 300R ventilated panel for sound proofing (original 330R panel has foam on it) 6 x 140mm Corsair fans (including H115i), 1 x 120mm Corsair fan, PSU has own built-in fan
Mistakes / Lessons Learned
CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 (CW-9060007-WW) High Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 120mm; not a real mistake, but I got a better deal on the H115i, which has a very high thermal capacity, so I decided to future-proof. WBTUO LM900 Micro USB3.0 TO M.2 PCI-E SSD Enclosure NGFF M-KEY PCIE Support AHCI for 2230 2242 2260 2280 SSD; I got it for an extra M-key PCIe SSD that I had. It turns out that this item cannot host NVMe, which wasn’t stated up front. PwrLink Adpt Graphics Cd Acces 600-PL-2816-LR ; angled power-bracket for EVGA 1080, worked great with regular 330R panel, but when I decided to install a ventilated 300R panel with fans, the bracket and the fans interfered. So I took it out. The bottom PCI 1x slot shares/blocks a SATA connector. That is not documented in the manual and I therefore got the Vantec card to compensate for the lost SATA Ports Installing the Alpine Ridge card essentially voids the lower M.2 slot. It should share bandwidth, but apparently the Alpine Ridge card only runs at 4x, so you have to leave the lower M.2 slot empty for Thunderbolt to work. Installing a USB 3.1 Gen 2 header cable (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE4P6PP9074) will deactivate Thunderbolt. Not only that, it will reset any driver memory. If you have Thunderbolt working, do not touch that connector. Just don’t. Mailiya PCI-E to Type-C + A 5-Port USB 3.0 PCI Express Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Mini PCI-E USB 3.0 Hub Controller Adapter with Internal 20-Pin Connector; https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B01MQ5R7I1; crashed MacOS or isn’t recognized at all, depending on BIOS settings. Uses NEC uPD720201 chipset. ORICO USB 3.0 PCI Express Card Hub Controller Adapter Card with 2 Rear USB 3.0 Hosts and Internal USB 3.0 with 15PIN Power Connector, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1DS0DV6321; crashes windows at boot with blue screen; ORICO paid lip service and were useless. Likely uses ViaLab VLI chipset. SilverStone USB 3.1 Gen 2.0 PCIe with internal 19-pin connector — ECU05, ˚https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZ0XVJO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, $47.99, middle PCIe 16x slot (needs 2x slot or above, based on ASMedia ASM1142 controller) needed to power multi-card reader in addition to Carbide 330R front panel ports. Great card, highly recommended, but in my case, it took a slot that dropped the GPU to 8x, so I had to find a 1x PCI solution. Thunderbolt: boot into Windows and connect a Thunderbolt device; I used an OWC TB 2 dock. When recognized, reboot into Mac OS X; I used a G-Drive TB 2 drive for that, as the OWC didn’t show up. Once the G-Drive showed up, I was able to hot-add the dock. No issues since (aside from using the internal USB 3.1 Gen 2 header, which led to a big mess; see next item). Note that if you disconnect the computer from power, you will have to boot into Windows again and connect a Thunderbolt device again prior to booting into Mac OS X. Chenyang USB 3.1 Front Panel Header to USB 3.0 20Pin Header Extension Cable 20cm for ASUS Motherboard, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE4P6PP9074&ignorebbr=1, $18.88; replaced SilverStone board for internal 19-pin, freeing up one 16x PCIe slot. This disables the Thunderbolt header, as reported in other forums (and if you even try that port, you will have to go through the whole Thunderbolt install process again…). I also tried a header splitter cable, https://www.moddiy.com/products/20%252dPin-USB-3.0-Internal-Header-Y-Splitter-Cable-%2812cm%29.html, but that didn't work either.
Systems / OS
MacOS 10.13.2 [17C205] “High Sierra” — all Mac drives are Journaled Extended MacOS (JHFS+); no APFS. [uPDATE: now on 10.13.3 [17D47; see below about issues]
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Clover Bootloader 2.4 4269 [uPDATE: now 4380 and OsxAptioFix3Drv]
Clover Configurator 188.8.131.52
Running as: iMac 18,3
EFI attached (sans Serial #)
To get TB running without boot process freezing, I had to add:
Connect only one screen (add all you want later)
Acpi: FixRegions: True
Boot: slide=0 [KSLR disabled]
Manual addition of kexts to 'other' folder.
Other Tools that Saved my Skin SoftRAID, https://www.softraid.com, for my external RAID5 backup server.
DiskWarrior, https://www.alsoft.com/DiskWarrior/, as I had quite a few corrupted directories during crashes. Also, the main reason I will not switch to APFS for now.
Kexts (all in EFI/Clover/kexts/Other) [uPDATE: Since then running all latest versions; will not not be updating this list]
WiFi Bluetooth (with Apple keyboard and MagicTrack Pad 2; see note below) Logitech Anywere MX mouse (with receiver) UHD630 Acceleration (see image) Audio (back panel and front panel) USB 3.0; tested with BlackMagic Disk Speed Test and Samsung Portable T3 SSD 1TB iMessage iCloud FaceTime Continuity / Handoff AppStore Universal Copy/Paste Eject key with DVD reader Thunderbolt Dual Boot Power Management UPS (mine is a CyberPower) Not Working
Overclocking on EVGA 1080 FTW 2; see note below. Cannot get a signal on the iGPU connectors (in ig-platform 0x5912000 config); ghost monitor appears in Displays and monitor turns out, but remains dark. Currently running with ig-plaftform 0x5912003. PCI boards shows as pci8xxx in Profiler; no names. Don’t think GPU shows either. Thunderbolt does not appear in profile. 10-bit display; perhaps need Vega FE for that. [uPDATE: added a Quadro P400; all good now with OpenGL display]
Jury Still Out
Sleep / Hibernate; the System Preferences : Energy panel is rather minimalistic. For example, Power Nap doesn’t show up. [update: was told that that might be because I am connected via Wi-Fi and not RJ45; either way, I don't need it and set Darkwake=no] USB ports; still have to map out unused out; my Anker USB hub shows as a 2.0, but I thought it was a 3.0. Need to investigate that further. [update: hub works fine; what I was seeing was—correctly—a USB 2.0 device plugged into it; 3.0 devices work as they should.] Booting with all 3 monitors on sometimes causes the 1080 to flicker and then hang. If I boot with two of them and then turn on the SW320 after login (I can leave it connected though), all is fine.
TrackPad 2 doesn’t allow me to tap-drag. I can double tap, but I have to click-drag. NVIDIA 3184.108.40.206.25.104 & CUDA 387.99. Installed NVIDIA web drivers using SIP procedure. Later installed CUDA 8.x and updated through CUDA System Pane (Control Panel). [uPDATE: Updated MacOS to 10.13.3 and driver 156; hangs on boot; reverted to 104 with nvdiaweb_patcher and all good now; even recognized both Quadro and GeForce] Pump was configured with CorsairLink in Windows and settings saved to device. Works for me, but use at your own peril! EVGA 1080 apparently doesn’t store OC settings in memory; you have to either ( a ) reset every time or ( b ) flash to BIOS. For ( a ) there is no software that I can find for MacOS; maybe someone knows how to port Nvidiux or similar utilities for command-line setup. For ( b ), NVIDIA apparently have locked Pascal boards for BIOS mods, so you can’t set up the board in Windows, flash it, and maintain settings in MacOS X.
Benchmarks, snapshots, BIOS settings (partial), and config (serial changed) are attached.
Many thanks to @joevt for advice and ideas while dealing with Thunderbolt and to @glasgood for a terrific guide when it came to fine-tuning.
Im trying to get my thunderbolt 3 USB-C working.
My system are:
-Gigabyte Z170X Ultra Gaming
-32 Gb RAM DDR4 3000 Corsair.
-500GB NVME Samsung Evo 960
-500GB SSD Samsung Evo 850
-MSI Nvidia Geforce GTX 980
All the system is working for several months , but in that moments I hasn't got any thunderbolt device to test the connections.
I have done the requested firmware Thunderbolt update from windows. And im in the latest Bios of this moment (f.23d)
I think also that I have the correct bios configuration to get the system working.
Now, I have a MacBookPro 15" i7 2017 with thunderbolt 3 USB-C , so I supposed capable to use the computer as an HD.
I boot in the HDD mode , pressing T in the boot time, and then I connect via USB-C to USB-C cable my Macbook and the hackintosh.
then I power the hackintosh and after of clover and everything, Im at the desktop without any thunderbolt connection.
The USB-C port works , because I have used the USB-C to USB-3.0 A + ethernet. And connect without problem.
what could I do to get it working?
in a future I want to get an Apollo UAD interface .
¡¡¡Thanks you so much!!!