Jump to content

26 PowerMac G5 Case Modding Project - mATX & ATX Conversion - Barebones - Mac Pro Alternative

13 posts in this topic

Recommended Posts

So, I am officially crazy...

I bought 26 Powermacs (G5)

And I modded them ALL

They are now ready for ATX and mATX Mainboards…

But why 26?

Did I mention I was crazy?!

(And they were only sold together…)




I modded G5 Cases before – They kind of became my passion.


This time I wanted everything to be perfect:

- Keep as much of the original design as possible

- Cut as less as possible

- Since it is impossible to find a G5 Case without dents and scratches, I wanted to paint them, freshly.





I am done now and it is time to share my experiences:

It was a rough 6 months from start to finish.

The project kept me busy during all of the winter.

I worked every weekend on it, till late.


I need to apologize…

…to my family for occupying their workshop, guest rooms and garages

…to my friends for neglecting them during the last months

…to the dogs and the cat for waking them up from their afternoon nap every now and then (because of the metalwork-noise).


I hope to be able and show everybody that it was worth it - And that someone out there is appreciating the work, as well.


Back me up, guys - Spread the love :-)





I believe in Apples high quality and the unique design of Sir Jony Ive



My mods include a preinstalled power supply (and even watercooling on some)



Countless hours of work and high-quality components & tools were used


Of course, you can come and have a look if you are near the South of Germany (or the North of Switzerland).




Finished Builds:



I do not have the money to equip all cases with CPU, RAM and SSDs right now.

But it would be so much fun to do it, now that all the hard work is done.


I will definitively equip machines later and build completely custom machines


I already equipped two of the shown modded cases with complete hardware.

One was for a music-studio. One for my brother.


Threads for the finished build projects will be linked here later:


Workstation & Gaming-Beast for my brother:


- ATX- X99-Mainbaord

- 8-Core Intel XEON E5-1660 v3 (Overclocked to 4 GHz - all-core)

- 64GB ECC-RAM (Registered DIMMs) with dual Copper heatsinks & Heatpipes


- Two 1080Ti in SLI (two flexible SLI Bridges were later installed)



Ryzentosh (For music production studio):


o mATX Mainboard

o Ryzen 1700X

o biggest cooler on the market (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro)

o 32GB RAM (ECC Unregistered DIMMs) with Aluminium heatsinks




A finished (painted) case from the outside.

The Apple logo is gone after painting…

For the better, I think!


The rear of a finished build







All the planning that goes into modding one case actually affected 26 cases. It had to be perfect. That’s why I planned every step and every purchase of parts, meticulously.

Then I applied every individual operation to all cases, one after another.


This raised the quality of all cases.



The metalwork (Filing, sanding, equalizing, gluing and painting) took a very long time. I don’t even know how many hours it took per case because I always did one individual operation to all cases (e.g. filing or cutting) and then started the next task. It probably took a couple of days per G5.

Then I broke my shoulder in May 2017 (doing something stupid on an Austrian glacier). That made it harder to do the sanding for a couple of weeks.

But even though it was painful, I couldn’t stop...






The different case-types:



The painting turned out very well.


I chose the best 14 cases after painting and decided to finish modding them, completely.

I will call these “Barebones” in the following.

In the pyramid-pictures they are always on top, because they were finished last and taken to the workshop more often.


The 14 best cases got equipped with a 600W PSU, front-panel, water-cooling (for the mATX Barebones), apple power-cables, etc…


They are now proper Barebones. No more hard work needed to finish the build.

Just missing a motherboard (and maybe hard drives) - and done.



12 other cases did not end up perfectly painted, but still good. Some orange peel here and there. Only 4 of them have stronger orange peel. I will call these 12 cases “Empty Ones” in the following.



An “empty case”


What to do with the “Empty Ones”?

They are also clean and modded. Ready for ATX or mATX boards, empty PSU-Enclosure…

One could make furniture or art out of them…

One could finish the mod with a new front panel.

Or one could paint them again in a different colour…

I don’t know…




Let’s start from the beginning:



Delivery: first we sorted the cases from “good condition” to “scratched and scuffed”

This sorting turned out to be useless, later as I ended up sanding, filling and painting all of them. I chose the best ones in the end.



We disassembled everything and sorted the parts – plastics, aluminium, batteries, electronics, etc… then gave everything to recycling. I am an environmental engineer, so this was important to me. I gave away all parts that could possibly be reused - Like fans, RAM and graphics cards.

There are no pictures of the disassembly, because it has been done by many people already and we were also too busy (it took a couple of days).

We ended up making our own tools and screwdrivers for removing the processors and mainboards, because many screws are hard to reach.


All parts that I wanted to keep were cleaned and kept separately. E.g. the fan grilles on the back, the rubber screws for the HDD Caddy or the DVD-drive stand-offs




Planning & Conversion


Then I made a plan for the easiest ATX conversion with the least cutting.

Best thing to do: Cut an opening to the back - big enough for ATX boards I/O and reuse the original PCIe slots for graphics cards. This turned out to be just perfect. I tested different boards. E.g.: ASUS TUF X99 (ATX) and ASrock AB350M (mATX)




Night shift – working with the Dremel



First cut for the ATX Mainboard I/O.

All the Internals are removed. Also, the fan grille with its many mini-screws. So that the plastic is not melting.



Cut-out (before filing and sanding). Sharp edges. Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges.

Then the filing and sanding removed all sharp edges.



I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy. This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils.



I made two different stencils. One for ATX Boards and one for mATX Boards:



Putting the standoff through the stencil and securing it with a screw



Cleaning the surface before gluing.


Both stencils with standoffs and fresh glue – right before placing it in the cases



ATX stencil in the case – gluing down the standoffs.



mATX stencil while gluing. It had to sit like this over night to make sure the glue is hard.


Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. All stand-offs / threads are in the right position for standart mainboards, now.


Now that all the disassembly, cutting and gluing was done it was time for some fresh paint.



The painting:


Before painting it was necessary to fill dents, file edges (there were chips, especially on the feet) and sand EVERYTHING to smoothen the surface and remove unwanted oils.

Fill, file, sand, repeat…

I used 2K Aluminium epoxy to fill dents




The Epoxy is like a cold weld. Hard and sturdy.



Dents before filling



Dents after filling - before sanding



More filling



Filled and sanded case.


At first I did not want to paint them myself.

So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks).

They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts.




The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint…


I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach.

So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...)

What a fool I was.

This took a week.


First of all, I needed a cleanroom.

So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden.



Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time



Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm.



To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would  leave  marks on the fresh paint).



I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before.



Paint-Shed from the inside



Hanging case before spray-painting



Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time.

All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats.



After spray-painting it was time for drying



The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in.



The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result:













The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4.

The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards.

Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link?










The “Empty Ones”:


This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin:



Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet.



An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards.



Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans.



A finished ”empty” mATX case



You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones”




I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones:


Time for re-assembly:







The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case.



I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand.



The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable).



The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans

My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm

They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects)



Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing








The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable.



Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing



To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise.



The case without any front-panel board or power-button.


Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases.

Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match.



Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again.

Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:



Installation of the front-panel board.



The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted.



The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work.

I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify.

Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds.  For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings.



Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector.



Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability.




DVD / Blu-Ray drive:




Eject the disc tray with a  paper clip.



Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture



Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those)



Standoffs installed



Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done.




PSU (Power Supply Unit):



I thought a long time about the perfect PSU.

I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability.



The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable.


How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU?

I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing.

So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound.

Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.


Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti.



Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.



Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints.


h4XksOd.jpgThe cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension.

The input-filter is still connected to the socket.



The Apple power-cord.



I found the perfect PSU.

A 600W PSU by Supermicro.


Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive.

Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU.


The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating.

That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available.

Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now)


80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.



All PSUs before they were put in



It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing.



The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord.



Securing the PSU in place



The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts.

Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug.

They also have a bigger input filter.



Soldering the extension on.



Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside



PSU inside the original Apple-Housing



All the cables come out near the back of the case.



I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through.



All PSUs are prepared



The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester.


These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal.







- PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)

- CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.

- Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)

- SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved

- 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector

- 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved



Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)


You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.



The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)







The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone.



Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore)



ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place




Finished ATX Barebones:




Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord



Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover



Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management




Watercooling (mATX Barebones):



Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases.


I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones:



Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case.



This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases



To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top



Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C



Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop.



The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment.


The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+)



Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out.

You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure).







I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones



Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables)


All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover


I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag.




Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling:



Here are some pictures of the internal layout:

Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts.



Finished mATX Barebone



Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment



Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment




Types of cases & Barebones:



What I have right now:


12 fully modded Barebones:

6 - mATX - with watercooling

6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit)


12 “Empty Ones”

- 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel)

- 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel)




The End:



Thats it for now…

What do you think?

Was it worth it?

What hardware would you put in?

Please let me know…




Yours, sincerely


Edited by wise_rice

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, wise_rice said:

What can I do, to show the pictures directly?

The file upload feature is not working at the moment and once it's fixed you can upload your pictures directly to your post.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi wise_rice,

What is your idea for the cases, you want to sell them or what?

You have any idea of the price you want for them?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, MorenoAv said:

Hi wise_rice,

What is your idea for the cases, you want to sell them or what?

You have any idea of the price you want for them?

Indeed, I will not keep them all for myself.

But most forums don't allow you to advertise anything.

So, I will be careful what I say on public posts....


I can estimate how much I paid for the material & tools and how much work I put into the cases...

It was a couple of thousand Euros for everything and a lot of work on top...

I wont post any concrete numbers here. If you need more detail, send me a private message (PM) or find me on twitter, Skype (name is in my profile), etc...



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/23/2018 at 6:57 PM, wise_rice said:

Indeed, I will not keep them all for myself.

But most forums don't allow you to advertise anything.

So, I will be careful what I say on public posts....


I can estimate how much I paid for the material & tools and how much work I put into the cases...

It was a couple of thousand Euros for everything and a lot of work on top...

I wont post any concrete numbers here. If you need more detail, send me a private message (PM) or find me on twitter, Skype (name is in my profile), etc...

We have the Market Place for these kinds of posts. I guess you can use it to sell or buy things but please read these rules before posting anything in that section:


1. New rule, please read.

2. Important! How to use The Marketplace!


Besides the upload feature is fixed now and you can post your picture in the first post if you like to update them.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/29/2018 at 8:18 PM, Cyberdevs said:

Besides the upload feature is fixed now and you can post your picture in the first post if you like to update them.

Thank you!

On 6/22/2018 at 7:26 PM, Cyberdevs said:

The file upload feature is not working at the moment and once it's fixed you can upload your pictures directly to your post.

All the pictures now show, as they should.


Therefore, the Log is complete and pretty now :)

Enjoy reading!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

8-Core Workstation for Audio Production:


Before starting on the “26 PowerMac G5 Case Modding Project“ I did a couple of prototypes to figure out the best varnish, cooling and PSU design.


I wanted to build a machine for a music production studio of a friend, because his machine was older and had only 4 cores.

An 8-Core with 32GB of RAM will be the successor.



I am a big fan of ECC RAM for productive systems.

There is no ECC RAM with heatsinks on the market. So I put my own heatsinks / Aluminium coolers on the RAM to keep it cool even in a very silent, low-airflow environment.

First Iteration (oldest):
mATX Board in an ATX Modded case. Not all mainboard-holes on the top have a screw, because the case was modded for full ATX sized boards. But that does not really matter. It is held in - safe and secure with around 6 screws.
  • spray can varnish (1K): It worked. But it turned out to be NOT the best solution. The uniformity of the varnish using a can-spray-head is not as good as using a professional spray-gun & compressor.  So, I switched to using a compressor, later. 
    Also, the 1K-Spray-can-paint is not as sturdy as 2K varnish. So, I changed that later, as well
  • Watercooling (CoolerMaster AiO) – a bit overkill for this 95W TDP processor, that will never be overclocked. The music-studio requested an air-cooler, anyway.  So, I changed that later for a big air-cooler and saved the water-cooling for another case. It was good that I installed the water-cooler on this test-case.
You could see the radiator through the front on the first test-build because I used a grey silicone on the front, covering some holes and the radiator was placed very close to the front.
I changed that on the later builds. There I will use a black foam-seal to get some distance to the front. Also, no silicone on the front. Only at the top and sides. 
This is then invisible. Glad I tested this before modding all 6 mATX barebones.
Second Iteration:
Modded mATX Barebone Case for the second iteration. 
Everything is the same as in my final mATX barebones, except for the PSU.
I was still working on the final PSU design at the time.
This one has a BeQuiet 600W PSU. 
The finished first Iteration of the build.
I did not like the PSU very much. It had to be glued in (silicone) and was non-removable. Then, the worst-case scenario happened. The fan suddenly made rattling noises and I had to remove this PSU again to return it. 
That was the moment I decided to re-use the original PSU-housing on the bottom - and no more glue.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Third Iteration (Final Build):
Varnished with the spray gun and compressed air. Even on the inside.
DVD-Drive installed.
2,5” to 3,5” adapter to put an SSD into the Apple HDD Caddy. Later even three SSDs in RAID5.
BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro 3. One of the biggest and most powerful Air-coolers on the market. These PowerMac cases can virtually fit any cooler - no matter how big.
It also works out with the Aluminium coolers on the ram. Very lucky.
Also: Always be grounded when handling electronic components.
Still plenty of space left between door and cooler.
The fan bracket is fitted with two NoiseBlocker 92mm fans.
The empty Apple-PSU housing before modding.
See the previous posts for details of the PSU-modding
New NoiseBlocker Fans (BlackSilent Fan XR-1 - 60mm)
Finished second iteration Build with new supermicro PSU in the original housing.
GTX 1050Ti
DVD drive
Most cable-management can be done under the mainboard.
Super-silent Air-cooling. 8 fans in total. All run near minimum speed.
The back of the modded Case.
This one has antennas build in and a C19 power-plug.
The mainboard I/O is slightly set back from the case.
Everything is accessible.
Only the Ethernet-cable can be a bit tricky to remove on this particular build. Ethernet cables have this little barb on it. You need to press it down before you can get the cable out. The barb is hard to press because everything is recessed a bit. For a desktop computer this is totally fine. Other mainboards have the Ethernet port in a different position (not on the very top), so they will not have this “problem”.
The barb is easily accessible when opening the door of the case and removing the back-fan bracket (that is clamped in).
The LAN-cable will only be plugged in once, so it is fine. The machine will not be moved to a different room very often. 
No more dents or stains on the case. Freshly varnished.
No more Apple-Logo on the side after painting. Just a clean silver look.
That’s it for this build. I learned a lot and could improve the quality of all other barebones. Especially PSU-wise, as you can read in the first posts (page 1 & 2).

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I probably should have just bought a modded case from you, but I'm (sort of) enjoying the insanity of doing it all myself. One question for you: do you know the best way to get the non-slip feet off the base of the outer shell? I'm wanting to get that section powder-coated and that's the one remaining non-metal part on it. I'm slightly fearful of hacking at the things with a makeshift chisel. 


btw loved your use of a sauna in this process. 

Edited by Kaitain

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By spec3
      is there a way to download 10.14.1 now? , i need to downgrade from 10.14.2..
      I would like to reinstall from zero, because i have problem of compatibility with some apps with 10.14.2.
    • By Abhiabhash
      I have a lenovo laptop with pentium 2020M 2.4ghz with 4gb ddr3 ram intel graphics and 500gb wd hdd i wanted to install hackintosh on my pentium for editing purposes beacuse windows sucks so can you please tell me how can i install it and which version should i install
    • By Teress
      In this Hackintosh tutorial I'm covering all aspects of Dual Boot Windows and macOS. How to avoid problems, best settings, Pros and Cons.
    • By 1Ale1
      Ciao a tutti, ultimamente ho deciso di mettermi al lavoro e fare un investimento a lungo termine comprando un fisso che ho assemblato pezzo dopo pezzo leggendo numerosi forum per essere bene informato sul miglior hardware che potessi ottenere per un Hackintosh ottimizzando al meglio i costi: ho finito così per comprare:
      -Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro (Rev 1.0)
      -CPU: Intel i7 9700k raffreddato a liquido (CoffeLake)
      -GPU: AMD Radeon RX580 (avendo letto le eccellenti prestazioni a ottimo prezzo per MacOS)
      -RAM: 32GB DDR4 Crucial Ballistix Sport LT (4x8GB 3000MHz)
      -NVMe SSD Samsung 970 Evo 250GB M.2 dedicato solo a MacOS, nel secondo slot della Mobo M.2 avrei poi messo un Western Digital Blue da 250GB con Windows 10 su metà disco e per l'altra metà il Debian che sto utilizzando adesso
      Poi mi sono messo subito al lavoro per cercare di far partire questo benedetto MacOs su una macchina non ufficiale, ho tovato quindi questa guida su GitHub che era molto simile alla mia configurazione:
      Dopo aver fatto partire una macchina virtuale per configurare la USB come comunemente viene fatto, scaricando l'applicazione e facendo il "burn/copia dei file" di macOS su pennetta esterna rendendola bootabile solamente da un pc ufficiale mac, sono passato alla configurazione di Clover (l'EFI installer, cartella che allegherò qui sotto, ma prima leggete il problema): Ho messo i driver necessari, mettendo quelli che lui menzionava sotto la sezione "building the usb installer"
      Install Clover for UEFI booting only
      Install Clover to the ESP
      Under Drivers64UEFI:
      AptioMemoryFix (the new hotness that includes NVRAM fixes, as well as better memory management) (che poi ho dovuto rimuovere, leggi sezione https://github.com/cmer/gigabyte-z390-aorus-master-hackintosh/blob/master/STEP_BY_STEP.md#fixing-kernel-panics-at-rebootshutdown)
      VBoxHfs-64.efi (or HFSPlus.efi if available) - one of these is required for Clover to see and boot HFS+ volumes. If you see the option to enable it in the installer, make sure it's selected - if you don't see it in the installer, verify that one of them exists in the EFI -> CLOVER -> drivers64UEFI folder
      ApfsDriverLoader - (Available in Dids' Clover builds - or here) this allows Clover to see and boot from APFS volumes by loading apfs.efi from ApfsContainer located on block device (if using AptioMemoryFix as well, requires R21 or newer)
      applicando piccole modifiche a causa di un errore già riportato da questa persona che ha scritto la guida di GitHub di sostituire AptioMemoryFix-64 (dalla cartella EFI/EFI/CLOVER/driver64UEFI) con OsxAptioFix2Drv-free2000, questa infatti riportava  quanto segue dopo aver detto di aver sostituito AptioMemoryFix-64.efi con OsxaptioFix2Drv-free2000:
      "I am told that there are downsides (that I don't fully understand yet) to using OsxAptioFix2Drv-free2000, so do this at your own risk."
      Ho configurato poi il config.plist
      Come diceva lui, partendo da questo file: https://hackintosh.gitbook.io/-r-hackintosh-vanilla-desktop-guide/config.plist-per-hardware/coffee-lake e applicando le modifiche che sotto ha descritto, del tipo:
      Open coffeelake_sample_config.plist with Clover Configurator (right click → Open With → Clover Configurator)   In SMBIOS: - Click the button with an up/down arrow (middle right). Chose iMac18,3. This is important since we'll be connecting our monitor to the RX580. The HDMI port on our motherboard is NOT yet working for Hackintoshes. - Make sure the serial number generated is an iMac (mid-2017) by clicking Model Lookup. - Ensure that Check Coverage reports that the serial is NOT valid. You don't want to use somebody else's serial number. - While you're here, copy your Board Serial Number to your clipboard. You'll need it soon.
      In Rt Variables: Paste your Board Serial Number in the MLB field. Set CsrActiveConfig to 0x0 which enables SIP for extra security. This should work just fine for a Vanilla Hackintosh install and is how genuine Macs ship. In Boot: Change the Custom Flags to: shikigva=40 uia_exclude=HS14 (this disables onboard Bluetooth since we'll be using an external Broadcom Wi-Fi/Bluetooth adapter) In ACPI: Click List of Patches and enable the following: Change GFX0 to IGPU In Devices: Set Inject to 16. Now to enable our headless iGPU, we need to fake the device id. To do so, Click Properties, select PciRoot(0x0)/Pci(0x2,0x0). Then, click the + button to add a property. Add the following: Property Key: device-id Property Value: 923E0000 Value Type: DATA Click the Export Configuration button (bottom left), then Save As config.plist. Copy your newly generated config.plist to /EFI/CLOVER/ on your bootable USB key.  
      Impostazioni BIOS
      E avendo settato nel BIOS le impostazioni che questa perona configliava all'inizio della guida,                       (N.B. la mia versione di Bios è l'ultima, F7 https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z390-AORUS-PRO-rev-10#support-dl-bios) (a quanto risulta il giorno 7.01.2019)
      Load Optimized Default Settings Peripherals → USB Configuration → XHCI Hand-off : Enabled Chipset → Internal Graphics : Enabled (important for Quicklook/Preview) Please note that we will be using our internal GPU in headless mode only and this guide assumes that. This is how an iMac18,3 (what we're basing our build on) behaves. That's it! I literally didn't change anything else and it just worked.
      Anche per me ha funzionato. Comunque lui riportava ulteriori settaggi, aggiungendo:
      However, these are settings that are generally recommended. Your mileage may vary:
      BIOS → Fast Boot : Disabled BIOS → LAN PXE Boot Option ROM : Disabled BIOS → Storage Boot Option Control : UEFI Peripherals → Trusted Computing → Security Device Support : Disable Peripherals → Network Stack Configuration → Network Stack : Disabled Peripherals → USB Configuration → Legacy USB Support : Auto Peripherals → USB Configuration → XHCI Hand-off : Enabled (Extremely important) () Chipset → Vt-d : Disabled (non l'ho messo e parte a volte, quindi penso che se parte non ha una importanza così rilevante) Chipset → Wake on LAN Enable : Disabled (era già così) Chipset → IOAPIC 24-119 Entries : Enabled  
      Il sistema è partito e soltanto alcune volte dava il seguente errore:
      Error allocating 0x11996pages at 0x000000001d453000 alloc type 2
      Couldn't allocate runtime area.
      Credo che sia questo piccolo problema: la NVRAM.
      Non riesco bene a capire dove cercare per sapere con esattezza se è supportato nativamente o meno. Ho cercato di informarmi, voi potreste dirmi se è vero?
      Premendo poi Ctrl+Alt+Canc riavviavo e selezionando da Clover l'NVMe interno partiva senza dare questo errore, per cui il kernel non trova spazio perché la memoria Non Volatile ad accesso Randomico è troppo frammentata, come
      Questa guida riportava:
      Primo post:
      Post aggiornato nel 2016:
      Mi sono letto tutto e ho capito che lui applicava anche delle modifiche al file: "Changes to OsxLowMemFixDrv-64.efi were simply editing 0x10000000 to 0x20000000."
      Ho quindi seguito il suo consiglio di mettere OsxAptiofix Emuvariable 64 e Test2-2016.efi (che lui aveva creato) ma il problema sembrava persistere, più raramente
      La mia cartella driver64UEFI di ora
      Dopo aver trovato una strada senza soluzoni anche lì mi sono rivolto a degli amici, e di questo errore ne ho parlato anche con utenti del gruppo Telegram "Hackintosh Italia" che sono stati e ancora sono molto gentili ad aiutarmi spiegandomi che si tratta di un problema di NVRAM, che nel mio caso, avendo installato questi .efi file nella cartella EFI/EFI/CLOVER/driver64UEFI (che ancora è cosi attualmente, oscillando tra couldnt allocate runtime area (anche dopo aver definitivamente staccato la corrente dopo aver spento il PC per capire se poteva aiutare) e a volta anche nessun errore)
      In più ho aggiunto gli RC Scripts (come mi è stato consigliato dai membri del gruppo telegram) sul disco interno in cui mac è installato.
      Togliendo quindi qualsiasi test.efi o test2- 2016.efi ed ascoltando chi ne sapeva di più. Ora mi trovo a dover affrontare diverse volte questo errore dovendo riavviare per risolverlo, cosa che mi fa dedurre che Osxaptiofix2 2000 sia un po' instabile nel pulire la NVRAM prima di avviare la macchina/ allo spegnimento di questa.
      Questo problema di couldnt allocate runtime area persiste sebbene prema F12 dalla schermata di Boot di Clover.
      Vi chiedo gentilmente una mano, inoltre mi è stato detto che siccome il sistema da:
      -"3.6 GHz unknown nella sezione "Processor"
      -non riconosce la RAM con un Vendor ID? (del tipo Ballistix dovrebbe essere?)
      Serve di rivedere il config.plist che ho creato, rivedere i DSDT e gli efi? sono a posto?, (mi hanno detto che gengik84 fare, ma accolgo volentieri l'aiuto di tutti) ,  vi mando una foto della schermata di "About this Mac" e della EFI in allegato. Quello che farò sicuramente mentre attendo vostre risposte è il downgrade da 10.14.3 Beta a 10.14.2, l'upgrade l'ho fatto pensando che magari avrei aggiustato qualcosa, ma l'errore come lo dava prima lo dà ora, non credo che questo cambi molto le cose in gioco. Comunque è meglio non essere in Beta per aggiustare gli errori.
      Grazie mille per essere arrivato a leggere fino a questo punto, lo apprezzo molto.
      Per la cartella EFI: sono 22MB zippati, in allegato non entrano...



    • By Teress
      Easiest way how to overclock or undervolt your AMD RX Vega GPU in macOS Mojave Hackintosh build. Easy fix for Vega GPU fan speed and power consumption.