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Found 23 results

  1. So, I am officially crazy... I bought 26 Powermacs (G5) And I modded them ALL They are now ready for ATX and mATX Mainboards… But why 26? Did I mention I was crazy?! (And they were only sold together…) I modded G5 Cases before – They kind of became my passion. This time I wanted everything to be perfect: - Keep as much of the original design as possible - Cut as less as possible - Since it is impossible to find a G5 Case without dents and scratches, I wanted to paint them, freshly. I am done now and it is time to share my experiences: It was a rough 6 months from start to finish. The project kept me busy during all of the winter. I worked every weekend on it, till late. I need to apologize… …to my family for occupying their workshop, guest rooms and garages …to my friends for neglecting them during the last months …to the dogs and the cat for waking them up from their afternoon nap every now and then (because of the metalwork-noise). I hope to be able and show everybody that it was worth it - And that someone out there is appreciating the work, as well. Back me up, guys - Spread the love :-) I believe in Apples high quality and the unique design of Sir Jony Ive My mods include a preinstalled power supply (and even watercooling on some) Countless hours of work and high-quality components & tools were used Of course, you can come and have a look if you are near the South of Germany (or the North of Switzerland). Finished Builds: I do not have the money to equip all cases with CPU, RAM and SSDs right now. But it would be so much fun to do it, now that all the hard work is done. I will definitively equip machines later and build completely custom machines I already equipped two of the shown modded cases with complete hardware. One was for a music-studio. One for my brother. Threads for the finished build projects will be linked here later: Workstation & Gaming-Beast for my brother: - ATX- X99-Mainbaord - 8-Core Intel XEON E5-1660 v3 (Overclocked to 4 GHz - all-core) - 64GB ECC-RAM (Registered DIMMs) with dual Copper heatsinks & Heatpipes - 3x1TB SSD RAID5 - Two 1080Ti in SLI (two flexible SLI Bridges were later installed) Ryzentosh (For music production studio): o mATX Mainboard o Ryzen 1700X o biggest cooler on the market (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro) o 32GB RAM (ECC Unregistered DIMMs) with Aluminium heatsinks o 3x1TB SSD RAID5 A finished (painted) case from the outside. The Apple logo is gone after painting… For the better, I think! The rear of a finished build Preliminaries: All the planning that goes into modding one case actually affected 26 cases. It had to be perfect. That’s why I planned every step and every purchase of parts, meticulously. Then I applied every individual operation to all cases, one after another. This raised the quality of all cases. The metalwork (Filing, sanding, equalizing, gluing and painting) took a very long time. I don’t even know how many hours it took per case because I always did one individual operation to all cases (e.g. filing or cutting) and then started the next task. It probably took a couple of days per G5. Then I broke my shoulder in May 2017 (doing something stupid on an Austrian glacier). That made it harder to do the sanding for a couple of weeks. But even though it was painful, I couldn’t stop... The different case-types: The painting turned out very well. I chose the best 14 cases after painting and decided to finish modding them, completely. I will call these “Barebones” in the following. In the pyramid-pictures they are always on top, because they were finished last and taken to the workshop more often. The 14 best cases got equipped with a 600W PSU, front-panel, water-cooling (for the mATX Barebones), apple power-cables, etc… They are now proper Barebones. No more hard work needed to finish the build. Just missing a motherboard (and maybe hard drives) - and done. 12 other cases did not end up perfectly painted, but still good. Some orange peel here and there. Only 4 of them have stronger orange peel. I will call these 12 cases “Empty Ones” in the following. An “empty case” What to do with the “Empty Ones”? They are also clean and modded. Ready for ATX or mATX boards, empty PSU-Enclosure… One could make furniture or art out of them… One could finish the mod with a new front panel. Or one could paint them again in a different colour… I don’t know… Let’s start from the beginning: Delivery: first we sorted the cases from “good condition” to “scratched and scuffed” This sorting turned out to be useless, later as I ended up sanding, filling and painting all of them. I chose the best ones in the end. We disassembled everything and sorted the parts – plastics, aluminium, batteries, electronics, etc… then gave everything to recycling. I am an environmental engineer, so this was important to me. I gave away all parts that could possibly be reused - Like fans, RAM and graphics cards. There are no pictures of the disassembly, because it has been done by many people already and we were also too busy (it took a couple of days). We ended up making our own tools and screwdrivers for removing the processors and mainboards, because many screws are hard to reach. All parts that I wanted to keep were cleaned and kept separately. E.g. the fan grilles on the back, the rubber screws for the HDD Caddy or the DVD-drive stand-offs Planning & Conversion Then I made a plan for the easiest ATX conversion with the least cutting. Best thing to do: Cut an opening to the back - big enough for ATX boards I/O and reuse the original PCIe slots for graphics cards. This turned out to be just perfect. I tested different boards. E.g.: ASUS TUF X99 (ATX) and ASrock AB350M (mATX) Night shift – working with the Dremel First cut for the ATX Mainboard I/O. All the Internals are removed. Also, the fan grille with its many mini-screws. So that the plastic is not melting. Cut-out (before filing and sanding). Sharp edges. Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges. Then the filing and sanding removed all sharp edges. I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy. This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils. I made two different stencils. One for ATX Boards and one for mATX Boards: Putting the standoff through the stencil and securing it with a screw Cleaning the surface before gluing. Both stencils with standoffs and fresh glue – right before placing it in the cases ATX stencil in the case – gluing down the standoffs. mATX stencil while gluing. It had to sit like this over night to make sure the glue is hard. Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. All stand-offs / threads are in the right position for standart mainboards, now. Now that all the disassembly, cutting and gluing was done it was time for some fresh paint. The painting: Before painting it was necessary to fill dents, file edges (there were chips, especially on the feet) and sand EVERYTHING to smoothen the surface and remove unwanted oils. Fill, file, sand, repeat… I used 2K Aluminium epoxy to fill dents The Epoxy is like a cold weld. Hard and sturdy. Dents before filling Dents after filling - before sanding More filling Filled and sanded case.   At first I did not want to paint them myself. So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks). They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts. The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint… I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach. So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...) What a fool I was. This took a week. First of all, I needed a cleanroom. So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden. Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm. To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would leave marks on the fresh paint). I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before. Paint-Shed from the inside Hanging case before spray-painting Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time. All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats. After spray-painting it was time for drying The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in. The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result: The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4. The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards. Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link? The “Empty Ones”: This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin: Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet. An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards. Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans. A finished ”empty” mATX case You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones” I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones: Time for re-assembly: Fan-Bracket: The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case. I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand. The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable). The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects) Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing Front-Panel: The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable. Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise. The case without any front-panel board or power-button. Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases. Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match. Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again. Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector: Installation of the front-panel board. The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted. The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work. I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify. Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds. For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings. Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector. Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability. DVD / Blu-Ray drive: Eject the disc tray with a paper clip. Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those) Standoffs installed Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done. PSU (Power Supply Unit): I thought a long time about the perfect PSU. I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability. The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable. How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU? I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing. So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound. Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors. Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti. Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing. Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints. The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension. The input-filter is still connected to the socket. The Apple power-cord. I found the perfect PSU. A 600W PSU by Supermicro. Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive. Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU. The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating. That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available. Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now) 80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet. All PSUs before they were put in It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing. The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord. Securing the PSU in place The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts. Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug. They also have a bigger input filter. Soldering the extension on. Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside PSU inside the original Apple-Housing All the cables come out near the back of the case. I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through. All PSUs are prepared The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester. These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal. PSU-Cables: - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter) - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well. - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter) - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case) You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard. The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed) HDD-Caddy: The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone. Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore) ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place Finished ATX Barebones: Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management Watercooling (mATX Barebones): Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases. I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones: Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case. This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop. The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment. The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+) Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out. You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure). Equipment: I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables) All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag. Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling: Here are some pictures of the internal layout: Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts. Finished mATX Barebone Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment Types of cases & Barebones: What I have right now: 12 fully modded Barebones: 6 - mATX - with watercooling 6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit) 12 “Empty Ones” - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel) - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel) The End: Thats it for now… What do you think? Was it worth it? What hardware would you put in? Please let me know… ;-) Yours, sincerely wise_rice
  2. Zammykoo's G5 I/O Board had created a lot of buzz until he shifted focus to other projects. And now, since he has released his board design, I would like to continue to work on his legendary board that will enable a G5 mod without going through the hassle of cutting the case. My initial design will be based on zammy's released design so it will only work with G5 cases of early-2005. I might consider making late-2005 compatible boards if there is enough demand. What has changed: 1. Board is redrawn in a CAD software 2. Manufacturer obsolete parts are replaced with parts still in production. 3. Excess empty space is trimmed. 4. Final board design will be released as Opensource Hardware (OSHW). Zammykoo I hope this is okay. 5. The board will be done in a fab house. Since the fab house is involved, we will need enough orders in order to keep costs down. Please let me know if you are interested. I am still working on the pricing so if you have a budget in mind please let me know in your replies so it could be considered. The board is now currently priced at $40 (One Ethernet Jack) and $50 (Two Ethernet Jacks) plus shipping, which is around $2 - $5 in the United States. For destinations outside the United States, shipping will be around $15 to $20 via USPS Priority Mail with tracking number. You will get the fully assembled board plus all the cables. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- List of Interested Parties: 1. Zammykoo (Since you are the original author, you are first in line and you'll get it for FREE!) 2. Treegjansen 3. Teme 4. Jeffkck 5. PromoMotion (1E) 6. I-Heine-I (1E) 7. Kara5 (1E) 8. Vpr99 (1E) 9. Uknown334 (1E) 10. Geb (1E) 11. Kolki (1E) 12. chocula (1E) 13. chdrsto 14. aeropg1 15. vanderveeken 16. fifty50am 17. rholdorf 18. snnall 19. daveeasa 20. lungshadow 21. mailw 22. khudge 23. frederikwieth --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update Oct 12, 2012 10:15PM Central Daylight Time: Here is the first draft: Update Oct 12, 2012 4:20AM Central Daylight Time: Here is the second draft: The second draft further shrinks the IO board down and centralizing all connections toward the middle. Update Oct 20, 2012: iPod Dock Connector 1 Update Oct 26, 2012: iPod Dock Connector 2 Update Oct 31, 2012: Putting together ================================================================================= Update Jan 3rd, 2013 11:40PM Central Standard Time: I hereby present you... Version 2.0.4b!! The "b" in the version number stands for "beta" and it means the board layout is NOT TESTED. Those who would like to make their own version of the board, you'll assume the risks yourselves. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! This attached ZIP file contains two EAGLE schematics and two EAGLE brd files as well as a list of parts with their Digikey part number. You can get the manufacturer's part number by referencing them on DIgikey's website: www.digikey.com This version contains two boards: one main board that contain all the connectors and a daughterboard that contains the cables. They mate with each other via two 0.05" pitch 30 pin connectors. g5board2.0.4b.zip ================================================================================== Update Aug 22nd, 2013 11:54PM Central Daylight Time: I have been MIA for a few months... have been focusing on my other responsibilities and finally picked up the project again. The audio ports for v2.04b are still not extruded far enough to enable the audio cable to be snapped in so I changed the design a bit to correct that. ================================================================================== Update Aug 26th, 2013 10:57PM Central Daylight Time The board is available to order. Lead time will be about a month since I need to stock up and doing this on my spare time. People on the waiting list will get priority. Please PM me so I can send you my PayPal details...
  3. Marchrius

    NVidia Web Driver Modder

    Version 1.0


    After a build number increment (eg. 14C1510 -> 141514 ) the official NVidia Web Driver stop to work because of the internal check. This script helps you in patching the kext and add the relative boot-args. But this isn't the only functionality. There is also a useful function for users like me that haven't a "compatible" Mac ( I have a MacBook Pro 5,1 with GeForce 9600M GT) to patch also the installer. Usage (without quotes): "sudo NVidiaWebdriverModder.sh --skip-version-check" to patch the NVDAStartup.kext to load on the current system (need reboot and root user) "NVidiaWebdriverModder.sh WebDriver-xxx.xx.xxxxx.pkg" to patch the WebDriver.pkg installer file
  4. Hello everybody! I'm creating an asus bios repo, with MSR0xE2 unlocked and many updates/mods. You can ask me to upload your model without any problem. I'll not edit ANY bios that isn't from asus. (Ex: Already modified bios file / from other manufactor) Here are the modifications that are present: -MSR 0xE2 Unlocked (Apple PM Fix) -CPU MICROCODE UPDATED (Latest Version) -iGPU GOP UPDATED (Integrated GPU UEFI driver) -LAN PXE UPDATED (Intel/Realtek/BCM) -AHCI/RAID UPDATED (Intel/Marvel/JMicron) -ASUS ROG LOGO (From Rampage IV Black) Attention: Some mods aren't available in certain chipsets. Look in my github description. The updates were made with UBU (UEFI bios updater), and MSR unlock & ROG Logo with UEFITool. I only tested with P8Z77-V Deluxe, since I only have this board. But, all the files should be working. Would be great, if who test it post a feedback here. Current supported Asus Models (More coming): LGA1155: -P8Z68 Deluxe -P8Z68-V LX -P8Z77-I Deluxe -P8Z77-I Deluxe/WD -P8Z77-M -P8Z77-V -P8Z77-V Deluxe -P8Z77-V LK -P8Z77-V LX -P8Z77-V Premium -P8Z77-V Pro LGA1150: -ROG G20AJ -Z87 Sabertooth -B85-PRO GAMER -Z97-PRO GAMER -Z97 Gryphon LGA2011: -P9X79 -X99-A II ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As always: I'm not going to take any responsability if you mess your MB up. If it fails, just download the bios file from asus website, rename it, and put into your pendrive. (Rename with the modded bios name) How to Update (ASUS USB Flashback): Download the bios file on my github. (below) Format a pendrive to fat32 Copy the bios file to your pendrive. Shutdown your computer Connect your pendrive into "Usb Flashback" port. (If you can't find, search in yours board manual) Now press the "Usb Flashback" button. Wait until the blue light stop (can take up to 5 minutes) Start your computer, and configure bios again ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Download Repository (Github)
  5. ITzTravelInTime

    kX Audio Driver Mod by ITzTravelInTime

    Version 2.0


    This driver is a mod of the popular kx audio driver for mac os x, the project goal is to still maintaining it for the future releases of mac os and to include as much cards as possible and to get all the features of the cards to work. Currently the only features not supported are audio inputs and integrated midi and synth capabilitues of the cards, and some minor things like creative remote controllers or software controlled volume gears on creative external drives and bays) It supports most the sound blaster live! series cards, the sound blaster PCI 512, most of the audigy (emu 10k2 based) series, audigy 1, audigy 2, audigy 2 zs, audigy 4 (SB0610), audigy 4 pro, audigy 5 and audigy rx (sb1550) and some e-mu edsp audio cards with all the recent versions of mac os, tested to work with mac os yosemite, el capitan, sierra and high sierra on intel based machines from socket 775 to 1151 (including enthusiast platforms like x58, x79, x99, x299) and also confirmed to work on mac pros. reference topic: Kx audio driver mod [sound blaster live!, audigy 1/2/4/RX emu edsp]
  6. Hey guys, working on my second Hackintosh project, and just finished the paintjob and visual side of it. Not sure what to call it: I was inspired by sci-fi movies (Aliens (1986) in particular as the attentive reader might notice). Perhaps simply "BauerCorp Mod" or similar. Anywho, this is the build so far: (Software setup still remains) • Primary use: Creative work, video editing • Corsair C70 case • Inno3D iChill GTX 1080 TI • ASUS Maximus X Hero 370 (Wi-fi, Bluetooth) • i7 8700K • 32 GB HyperX RAM • Samsung 500GB 850 EVO M.2 SSD • (7 SSD drives total > Will be transferred from current machine when everything else is ready. Same with lighting.) • PSU: Corsair RM750X • CPU fan: Noctua NH-D15 Let me know what you think, and if you´re interested I´ll post more about the build/painting process itself. Thanks
  7. Hey guys. Im currently working on my G5 mod and just completed the hard part - I have cut the rear and placed my tray in it by using the original G5 fan mesh. It looks clean to me, I will post pictures when the raw construction is over. I have ordered some fans and the PSU yesterday and I'm not sure about the airflow that I want... I have two ideas and would be very happy if you could guide me to the best alternative: 1: From bottom to top This design is all about positive air pressure. All fans are intake, which means that the amount of dust entering the case is more control able, isn't it? Heat is also rising and I hope the airflow will benefit from this design... What do you think? Bad idea? Why? 2: From left to right (standard?) I see this kind of design in almost every G5 mod and there might be a very good reason for that. Is this deign better than my thoughts above? Will the amount of positive air pressure be enough to keep most dust outside? Thanks!
  8. The latest update is 10/02 2014. Please find it, thanks! Hello and welcome to my project and my build/project log named " Big Bro 'Prodigy ." In this project, a well-planned and excecute modification of computer chassis named "BitFenix ​​Prodigy" will be performed. The modification will be performed in a manner so that the end result is something I've never seen before. I hope you readers will find my project interesting, both the arrangement, modification, the idea and the final product. To make this project possible, I have a couple of business partners with well-known names. Let me introduce you to them and thank them for supporting my work and giving me this opportunity: _____________________________________________________________________________ Gigabyte has provided me with the following product: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7 GIGABYTE GTX 780 OC _____________________________________________________________________________ AquaTuning have provided me with the following products: Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Black Chrome Edition Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm Alphacool HF 38 Cape Cyclen 250 Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1T Alphacool Laing DDC Acetal top Phobya Universal monterirng för pumpar (Eheim, Magicool, Laing) & Alphacool Laing ljuddämpningskit (Velcro matta + 60x60mm isolering) Phobya Blende Dual (240) - Hole Series - Black & Phobya radiator grill single (140) HEXX - black _____________________________________________________________________________ BitFenix​​ has provided me with the following products: Prodigy Recon Spectre Pro Alchemy LED Strips Alchemy Cables Products of at Inet (Swedish retailer). _____________________________________________________________________________ Dustin Home has provided me with the following product: Intel Core i7 3770k _____________________________________________________________________________ BeQuiet! has provided me with the following product: Dark Power Pro 750W _____________________________________________________________________________ Mountain Mods has provided me with the following product: Mountain Mods Modular Removable Motherboard Tray _____________________________________________________________________________ Thank you again! Without you, this project would not be able to be done. Photos, videos, and more will reviews of the products will presented in this project. _____________________________________________________________________________ "To Do" list: [X] Writing the introduction and presentation of the project. - 9/12 2012 [X] Remove chassis parts and remove some metal pieces. - 12/12 2012 [X] Show prototypes and the chassis. - BitFenix ​​ products wil be used here. - 16/12 2012 [X] Cut holes and mount a plexiglass window on the side panel. - 05/01 2013 [X] Modify the motherboard tray - MountainMods products will be used here. - 03/2 2013 [X] Fix the new place for the power supply. - BeQuiet! products wil be used here. - 03/2 2013 + 20/4 2013. [X] Unboxing of GIGABYTE z77x-UP7 and test-mounting in the case - 12/03 -2013 [X] Attaching new motherboard plate and its I / O & PCI-E ports. - - 08/04 -2013 [X] Modification of the front panel - 24/05 -2013 [X] Modification of the top - 16/06 - 2013 [X] Even more mesh! and AquaTuning is sponsoring - 10/07 - 2013 [X] Unboxing & Overview of the GIGABYTE GTX 780 OC - 06/08 -2013 [X] Cut holes for I/O and assembly - 28/08 -2013 [X] The case and it's parts are done - 14/12 -2013 [X] Test, review and show products. GIGABYTE products will be used here. [X] Mount the water cooling - AquaTuning​​ products will be used here. 10/02 -2014 [ ] Final pictures. More things to do may be added. More things to do may be added. _____________________________________________________________________________ Introduction - What and why? - 9/12 2012 Welcome to my introduction to my project " Big Bro 'Prodigy "! I will now present my project and tell you what it will be about. The idea: What kind of project will I do? What kind of modification will I make to the BitFenix ​​Prodigy? Why? The reason I wanted to do a project and a modification of this particular chassis is because I, when it was announced, was very interested in this chassis. In my last project I modified one of the prettiest chassis available in my opinion, the PowerMac G5. When I saw BitFenix ​​Prodigy, it felt like a "little brother" to the PowerMac G5 because of how the front and handles on the top and bottom looked. I felt that this is a chassis I want to deal with. I looked at acquiring myself a m-ITX motherboard but I found nothing that suited me. I am in need of 4x RAM slots (m-ITX has only 2x) and I love overclocking and general stuff with computers, so m-ITX unfortunately was no choice for me. Many have wished that this chassis would be released as at least m-ATX chassis and I also wished for that because I've got a mATX board. That's when I figured I should take matters into my own hands and fix me a Prodigy that fits my needs. But no, I will not modify the chassis to fit a mATX motherboard, sorry guys. Many have guessed at it, and I'll admit, it was actually my first idea for a while. Then, however, Isaw that there is already a guy out on the wide internet that has done this. I felt I want to be unique and do something that nobody else has done, so I decided to not make a m-ATX chassis by Prodigy. _____________________________________________________________________________ What am I going to do? Thanks for asking My modification will become something even greater, something even more extreme and something even more unique. I'm going in my project and in this log modify a BitFenix ​​Prodigy so much so that it fits with a .. Wait for it ... m-ATX ... and ... ATX ... and even ... E-ATX! You read that right. I'll modify my BitFenix ​​Prodigy so it keeps an almost complete E-ATX motherboards. This is a form factor greater than ATX (which is the motherboard "noramal" size). An m-ITX chassis that will swallow a E-ATX motherboard! > However, the "standard" for E-ATX is 30.5cm x 33cm, and this will unfortunately not fit physically. I will fit motherboard up to 30.5cm x 28cm, which is larger than the standard "ATX". Many E-ATX motherboards are 30.5cm x 27cm, for example the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7. I can, with even more modification, fit a motherboard that is a full size E-ATX, which is 30.5cm x 33cm. I will however not do this, but it is possible with some extending of the case (I wan't to keep the exterior original). The reason I will perform this modification is because I want to make room for larger motherboards than the intended m-ITX (17cm x 17cm). This is an aesthetically attractive chassis that is very capable of doing much. With the help of my modification, I will be able to get the motherboard that is almost four times as large as intended. Not bad! The chassis is very popular among enthusiasts and making a modification as extreme like this of this chassis I will be extremely exciting! My goal is to show what the Prodigy can actually go for and what it is capable of. Hope you do as well and are eager to follow my project log. Any form of constructive criticism are welcome! Positive and negative. Thanks in advance Hope you like it here in my little project log Best Regards Nikkop The Prodigy and emptying it - 13/12 2012 Hey! First and foremost, I want to present my latest collaboration partners. It is a reputable company and you have certainly come across their name many times and maybe even used their products. Let me introduce: Gigabyte Gigabyte will provide me with a monstrous motherboard, their top model for socket 1155, by the name of GA-Z77X-UP7. This motherboards color theme will suit perfectly to my project as I will use hot colors such as - Yellow, Orange and Red. The GA-Z77X-UP7 also allows for QUAD SLI/CF (four graphics cards ), has dual 8pin for the CPU and holds the world record for overclocking "Intel Ivy Bridge" processor (7.102GHz). For more information, unboxing, review, overclocking, photographs and use of the product in my modification will happen when I get the motherboard from Gigabyte. Until then, we must content ourselves with excitement waiting for it! On to some pictures! ________________________________________________________________________ Plot: Here I come with an update that will involve: A look at the chassis - BitFenix ​​Prodigy. Emptying the chassis on its content. BitFenix ​​Prodigy This update will include products from: Let's take a look at the chassis! Now that we have seen how the chassis looks like, let's empty it! __________________________________________________________________________ Emptying the chassis Let's get down to business! This is how the chassis looks without the side panels and everything else default. I begin by removing the upper HDD cage. Very easy to do because of the "clips", small handles are pressed together and then goes on to pull out. Very easy and takes a few seconds, no need for screws and the like. Even cradles where the hard drive are placed are made in the same way, nice! To remove the lower hard drive cage it is required that we turn the chassis over and remove a couple of screws from the bottom. Not too difficult either. After two hard drive cages are removed I pick off the front panel of the chassis. This is easily done with a pair of "clips" on the inside of the chassis in the front. Poke at them in the right direction and release it. There are a total of 4 pieces. I also want to remove the 5.25" mount because I do not use an optical drive (I'm a USB-man!) I also need to remove it because of the modification. Simple done with a number of screws on the outside in the front and a few on the inside. (I'm sure you can fix an optical drive mount in another way if you want to follow this project). The chassis looks pretty stupid and ridiculous without the front panel, so we'll make sure not to lose it! I then pick out the two included fans. I guess they are 120mm Spectre. On top of the chassis there is a "fan grill" where you can attach 2x 120mm fans, or an entire 240 radiator for water cooling. We get rid of this one aswell There, now is the chassis relatively empty! What remains is the motherboard plate for m-ITX motherboard that sits inside the chassis in a rather unique way. This is a rather massive piece of metal. Let's remove this one too! This motherboard tray is stuck with quite a few rivets. Rivets can be removed easier by drilling them apart, right through it. Then loosens the "head" and pop rivet releases. This is done as said most easily with a drill, but then I do not have such a tool at the moment so I solve using a dremel/multifunction tools and a drill. Sometimes it happens that the drill stuck, so a real drill is recommended. This is what the metal piece when it is removed from the chassis and laid on the desk looks likes. Getting it off was a pain, partly because I had the wrong tools, but also my dog ​​got really angry and barked a lot because of the sound of the tool. Now the case, BitFenix ​​Prodigy, is completely empty of content, and the "body" and the feet are what is left. This gives me the opportunity to start my modification that will happen. The chassis felt a lot much easier on the weight after it was emptied, which is quite understandable. As we can see in the picture below, pretty much was taken out, everything from the motherboard plate to hard drive cages, fans, front panel, side panels, etc. ______________________________________________________________ That was my update which was about the chassis and the emptying of the chassis. Henceforth modification start and I hope you look forward to it as much as I do! I'm going tomorrow to record a video and hopefully make an soon. Here, I will show prototype images of how I thought that this project will look like, while I'm in the video will show it "live" and how I'm going to do. I'll embed the video in this projectlog, of course. We can then using prototype images imagine how it will look like, and thus know how it will be with the finished product! I'm extremely psyched and looking forward to this project a lot! If you have questions or concerns, or just criticism, please write in this thread! Thank you for reading. See you soon, Best Regards Nikkop
  9. Not sure if everybody here will be interested, but I was talking to some guys that do custom keycaps, I pitched him this design: but they said they could not make singles, only in bulk. Don't mind the colors and size. So I'd like to ask if everybody would be interested in purchasing. It's for a Ducky Zero Shine backlit mechanical keyboard. I haven't gotten their reply as to how many they'd need for them to push through with the manufacture, but they said the design is feasible.
  10. Marchrius

    Make Me Legacy

    Version 1.0


    Make Me Legacy Overview Make Me Legacy, the program that helps you to stop kext copying at every update. What is it? Make Me Legacy is a program that change the version of a given kext (and his sub-kexts known as PlugIns) to an highter version number and File Extensions supported kext plugin bundle ppp vpn Links and Email If you have solutions and/or suggestions please send me an email to developer.marchrius@gmail.com Please, don't spam . Web Site: http://marchrius.altervista.org Twitter: @marchrius
  11. SpiderMonkey

    Newbie question...

    Hi there, Just joined the forum and loving the posts. So many different ideas.... Would anyone help with my query: Got a Power mac G5 with all the insides and would like to do a G5 case mod with it - gut it all out and fit with up-to-date motherboard, CPU, etc. Looks not important, functionality and price are. The problem is, as mentioned before, I am a complete newbie. Where do I start? Thanks in advance.
  12. I am stupid. Will a moderator please delete this topic?
  13. Come da titolo vendo case di un mac g5 modificato per inserirci un qualsiasi sistema con mobo atx. vendo causa passaggio a nuovo case, il case è fantastico, incluso nel case oltre al cavo del pannello frontale (link), il rack per contenere gli hard disk, e 2 ventole (una che soffia sugli hdd 120mm, 80mm che aspira accanto alla cpu ). spediizone a carico dell'acquirente, prezzo non trattabile, per qualsiasi info o foto non esitate a contattarmi, di seguito il link della modifica del case http://www.ceribbo.com/2013/06/powerpc-mac-g5-case-mod/ di seguito le foto: per qualsiasi info o altre foto non esitate a contattarmi. in vendita anche su altri canali. Prezzo: 150€
  14. Salve a tutti ragazzi, volevo condividere con voi questo mio progetto di modifica del case di un mac g5, link al video link all'articolo spero vi piaccia
  15. So, Im doing a G5 (late 2005 model) case mod in which I plan to use the original front panel for the Power Button and Power LED (and other connections which I have figured out) As you might know this is the model with the difficult front panel with no simple connection- no probelmo, I can work with it but I have become a little confused with the task of getting my motherboard to work with the original Front Panel. Heres a diagram of the G5 front panel pinout- 01 02 03 04 05 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Audio USB Firewire Button/LED unknown 01: Audio Left 02: Audio GND 03: Audio Right 04: ??? 05: FIREWIRE GND (double) 06: USB VCC (+5V) 07: GND 08: GND 09: FIREWIRE TPB- 10: FIREWIRE TPB+ 11: LED 12: Firewire FW802C IC VDDA (+3.3V) 13: ??? 14: GND 15: FIREWIRE VCC (double) (+12V) 16: GND 17: USB D- 18: USB D+ 19: GND 20: FIREWIRE TPA- 21: FIREWIRE TPA+ 22: BUTTON And for my motherboard- So what I'm confused about is connecting the Power Button and Power LED from the motherboard to the front panel as on the front panel pinout there is only 1 connection for the power button and power led but on the Motherboards pinout there is 2 connections for each- how can I get them to work? Any help on this would be great! Thanks
  16. KEY FEATURES: - Modular PSU in G5 housing - Multi-bay 2.5" Drive Storage - Reusing Apple Case Fans - The Laser Hive Custom Motherboard Tray & Back Plate - Cable Sleeving & Wire Management PROLOGUE: This is my third Powermac G5 modification, and is the one that I have been most excited about! After my first G5 mod, I wrote the Ultimate G5 Resource Page (link) and was overwhelmed by the amount of views it has received. Many of the pageviews were returning visitors, which told me that people were coming back to it as a reference, and not just happening upon it via Google. After over a year of not touching a G5 (having sold both of my previous mods) I decided that it was about time that I got back in the game, hopefully to bring some fresh content and tutorials to those venturing into the G5 modding world! SPONSORED MOD? A sponsored mod is one where manufacturers or individuals contribute parts/components/supplies to a case mod project. It benefits them by bringing attention to their products in a (some might argue) saturated market, and obviously it helps take some of the financial burden off of me. I am still finalizing the list of sponsors for this project, and will update this section once that is done. I would like to thank all the people who believed enough in my modding abilities to help support me in this mod, without you, this literally wouldn't have happened! Icy Dock (www.icydock.com) Components Provided: ToughArmor MB996SP-6SB 2.5" Drive Bay (link) I think I am most excited about this part of my G5 case mod. Drive storage is always a bit of a tricky one, and I'm positive that this drive bay will be the perfect solution. It normally goes in a 5.25" slot, and can store up to 6 hot-swappable 2.5" drives! Now that 1TB 2.5" drives are only running at around $70, an all-2.5" solution was a no brainer! Vantec USA (www.vantecusa.com) Components Provided: 2 x 120mm Stealth Case Fans (link) When modding the G5, the loudness of your chosen fans is pretty darn important - you can almost consider the entire case to be open-air with that mesh! I chose the Stealth fans because they push a lot of air at a very unimposing 20dBa! Arctic Cooling (www.arctic.ac) Components Provided: Freezer i30 Enthusiast-grade CPU cooler (link) With four direct touch copper heat pipes and a monster heatsink, this is a beast of a CPU cooler that has been scoring high marks across the web in reviews. Did I mention it runs about 70% quieter than the stock Intel cooler? The Laser Hive (www.thelaserhive.com) Components Provided: mATX motherboard tray and back plate (link) If there's one thing I love about the hackintosh community, it's the general spirit of ingenuity! David from The Laser Hive is a perfect example of this, and has several very creative and professionally executed solutions for the G5, and his flexibility and willingness to work on an individual basis means that I can highly recommend his products! Alohacab (forum thread) Components Provided: G5 front panel ATX Cable (link) Very much along the same lines as The Laser Hive products, Alohacab is one of the few people in the hackintosh community selling quality accessories that make the lives of G5 modders that much easier! If you don't feel comfortable with a soldering iron and pinout diagram (or maybe you just want to save some time), Alohacab offers a professional-looking cable at an affordable price. COMPONENT LIST: To be decided. I do know that I will be including: - 2 x 240GB Chronos Deluxe Mushkin SSD (link) - 2 x 1TB Samsung Spinpoint 1TB 2.5" HDD (link) - AlohaCab's Front Panel Cable (thread link) - The Laser Hive motherboard tray and back plate (link) - Apple Bluetooth Module (guide) - Apple Wi-Fi Card (guide) - Apple Chime on Startup (guide). TO DO LIST: - Tear down case (done!) - Clean case as best as possible (done) - Decide what original parts I want to keep - Decide what solution I want to use for the motherboard (done) - Decide what to use for HDD storage - Gut Powermac PSU, ready for modular ATX power supply - Wire Apple fans for 5V (quieter) - Cut back panel opening UPDATES AND FINAL PICS: Forthcoming.
  17. Ira Aduro

    G5 // Legacy

    G5 // LEGACY // concept image // Introduction: Two months ago I had never heard of a G5 case being modded. Now here I am, attempting my own. I've read through about every mod on here and other sites so in some ways I feel like I'm just rehashing what's been done ad nauseum. Hopefully I can give back to the community with some new ideas. Also, this is going to be an "open source" project. What I mean is that any custom parts or cuts I make I will be providing schematics for anyone else to use. I don't know CAD but I know Adobe Illustrator and you can save CAD files from it. So, for example. I'll be designing a custom top shelf and PSU holder. Once those designs are finalized and I know they work/fit I'll be posting them here. At this point I have to thank: Bonestonne, Mr. D, eep357, and WhattheTech for their invaluable help and advice already. I'm going to attempt a few things with this mod: 1) Keep original IO ports 2) repurpose DVD bay by using a slot loading DVD above it 3) Keep a very similar layout to the original G5 but take ideas from the Mac Pro 4) Extremely clean inside and cable management 5) Perhaps a glowing false floor e.g. MurderMod 6) Reuse as much of the original parts as possible 7) Near silent operation 8) Relocate power plug from bottom to top 9) glowing trim like Tron. Though the painting part will come last. Perhaps will use glow in the dark paint, or EL strips. 10) Some custom holders for the PSU, a free standing easily removed motherboard tray, and upper shelf covers (similar to Mac Pro) Some problems: 1) starting Feb 15th I'm going to have very little free time for five weeks as I help the company I work for relocate 2) I really have no experience AT ALL cutting metal, wiring, etc, etc. I wasn't going to make a thread until I was nearly finished but I realized I'm going to have a lot of questions so I should ask people that would know So, let's dive in. The rear IO ports. I only would use the USB ports the rest I'll bring online as I need them and will be using the original receptacles kept in place. For the USB ports I've found these wonderful ports: Link to ebay product. The metal tabs on the outward face keep the port from being pushed into the G5 case and if you push up some of the metal tabs used to grab a USB device they will keep the port from being pulled out. I had it in and tested it and it worked perfectly but I forgot to take photos. Silly me. I did take a photo of my "solder your own USB 3.0 cable" test: In the end I'll probably make the back two USB ports 2.0 (just four wires to solder instead of nine). I'm making my own cables so I can bridge the gap between the motherboard IO ports and the G5 IO ports with a cable that is the perfect length. I'll heatshrink and then sleeve these. I'm also going to be covering the motherboard IO ports attractively because I hate how shiny metal they are. The DVD drive. So I bought a GA31N slot loading DVD drive from a Dell XPS 13. It's the exact same drive called "super drive" by Apple. Instead of having to make my own custom case for it (just to keep it looking good) I bought this cheap but effective thing: I'm still deciding final placement. Either at the top above the original DVD opening or sideways next to the front ports. Keeping the inside similar. Here's a test fitting (ignore the cardboard they are raising the motherboard up to the right level, still trying to nail down how high motherboard needs to be raised. Looking down: Under the hood (shield a little crooked due to this being a rough fit in) The bottom part of the case will have a false flooring where I'll have knick knacks like an LED consolidator and stuff. Thermal design: My most likely final design for airflow, thanks to many people who helped me with this but especially Bonestonne. Cable Management design: A simplified view of what cables and where. Red lines are power cables, green are data. Dashed lines mean cable is running behind object. Holder for PSU: So I figured out I can use the bolts that hold the inner shell of the G5 to the outer shell as part of a holder for the Power Supply. First a photo of the power supply, got a great deal on a x750 Seasonic fully modular. And here is a quick drawing of my idea, basically you unscrew the bolts and the metal fits between them and the top of the case with a small "lip on the forward facing side of the holder to keep it from sliding backward. The back facing part of the holder has two metal sections that attach to the PSU, holding it in place. In this drawing I have drawn the holder bending under the PSU but I've just realized I don't need that part so pretend it's not there. I realize this is a hard to understand sketch so I'll do a roughout in sketchup in a bit. Blending Mac Pro and G5: I mentioned wanting to blend Mac Pro and G5. I'm planning on taking the idea of covers for the top shelf from the Mac Pro and creating somethin similar for this G5 mod. So for example this: I have two 2 x 2.5" hotswap HD bays from Rosewill. Those would go behind the double slitted covers. I've been toying with the idea of removing the case around the two hotswap bays and building a custom backplate that would hold the sata and power connector and allow you to slide out two HDs per cover, like how the Mac Pro operates. An alternative placement for HDs would be cutting out a section of the false floor and storing them in there (they are thin enough to fit into the newly cut hole. I had mentioned in a previous thread about a power column that ran from top of the case to the bottom and hid all the power cables. That's it for now. Thanks for reading. Any thoughts or critiques you might have, I'm very interested in receiving them, everything right now is in a state of flexibility.
  18. WhatTheTech

    [worklog] Darkmac Pro

    The aim of this mod is to shake up the norm of aluminum-silver G5/Mac Pro mods by employing a darker theme for my Mac Pro. I want it to be clean and non-flashy, yet still have the gravitas to make people stop and take a second look. TO DO LIST This list is more for my personal benefit than anything, but will give you a good idea of what's to come! - Install custom front panel with USB 3.0 connectivity (waiting for part) - Install anodized DVD drive cage (waiting for part) - Install panel-mount 3.5mm female jacks on the back of the case (waiting for parts) - Possibly install panel-mount USB 3.0 ports with right-angle adapters (not sure if they will fit...) - Improve PSU airflow by drilling holes/removing side of enclosure - Install white LED light strip and inconspicuous power button for lighting (waiting for parts) - Possibly replace GPU and HDD LEDs with white one (kinda leery of messing around with my only GPU!) INTRO Well, despite having Project Gravitas on pause due to hardware issues, I couldn't turn down an eBay auction for a poorly-described Mac Pro chassis, that was listed without pictures and simply titled "Apple Case". On a whim, I decided to take a chance (they had listed one part number for a Mac Pro fan, so I figured it might be a Mac Pro) - $30 and no other bids later, I had a PERFECT Mac Pro show up on my doorstep. Ebay win: Despite being mostly empty, the case had only one small scratch on it, and the important parts like the front panel and shelf were included, so I had absolutely no reason to complain. Here's a quick and dirty shot right out of the shipping box: I knew that I wanted this mod to stand out. I'm always encouraged to see the sheer volume of G5/Mac Pro mods floating around various communities, and after being inspired by the Gunmetal G5 project from ToddFX on G5Modders (and contacting him to find out how much he paid for his anodizing), I decided to make some phone calls around town and see how much the cost of anodizing a Mac Pro would annoy my wife. She would undoubtedly (and not incorrectly) think that it was superfluous. Well, "superfluous" is not in the vocabulary of most modders, and I was delighted to hear back from "Anodizing Specialists" in Ohio that, yes, they would be interested in me coming down to talk things over. Delighted, I took a trip to the shop to talk with the VP of operations. Being an aluminum guy, I would like to think that he appreciated the hunk of his metal of choice almost as much as I do. Sitting in his office he pulled out some color samples, and I chose a dark gray. I had toyed around with black and even white, but this is to be my last computer case for a little while, and dark gray is my favorite color. After going over the case with magnets, he pointed out the parts that needed to be removed and told me to come on back when I had it disassembled. He very kindly gave me permission to photograph and document the process for informational purposes, which will be released in a forthcoming article on G5Modders.com, and of course will be included in this worklog. DISASSEMBLY Not having the same experience that I do with the G5, I decided to be overly-organized with my disassembly. Every part/area has its own bag, and in that goes any parts and related screws/fittings. It's annoying, but I'm sure I'll thank myself in the end! (Note: a lot of this full disassembly is applicable to the G5!) The awesome modular drive bays that I won't be using: This is perhaps the most intricate and difficult case that I have ever worked with, and that's including old server towers from the 90's! With this more than any other case, TOOLS ARE EVERYTHING. If you don't have the right tools, you're going to have a tough time doing things efficiently, and you'll probably end up cussing. (6mm socket) (T8 Kobalt Bit) Before picking up the tools above, I was close to giving up twice. "It's not worth it", I thought to myself on those occasions, "just do a regular mod". Once I buckled down and bought the tools, things were MUCH easier, if only slightly faster. Our patient: I'm going to hazard a guess that there are around 80 screws that you need to remove for full disassembly, although considering everything I had to take out, that could be an underestimate. The above screws are the biggest pain the neck. Being so close to the bottom of the case, regular screwdriver handles are simply too big to have space for your knuckles to turn, and of course Apple uses that blue loctite stuff on all of their screws, so pliers just don't cut it most of the time. Once I had removed all the screws (including the hidden ones…sigh) I carefully pulled apart the handles from the shell. Now I'm not sure if I did it correctly, but using some fabric in between the two parts, I pulled the handle assembly away from the shell, and slowly slid up out and over, taking care not to scratch anything! I don't have pictures of this step as it takes both hands, but I'm here to help if anyone needs guiding! Here's half the beast, looking like a car door in a gangster flick, riddled with bullet holes: Here's a close up of the pesky screws that I mentioned earlier. Four would be fine, but 8+ on each side is just a pain: After that, there were more screws to separate the two halves of the shell as well as some rivets that had to be drilled out, but that was relatively easy with much more space to work in! Still, look at these alternating rivets and security screws: Steve Jobs meant it when he said he didn't want people rooting around inside Apple products. Finally I removed anything that was not made of aluminum, including all I/O plastic and EMI shields, and several screws and a few other bits and bobs here and there. Pics to come of the thing totally apart! Hopefully I'm dropping this case off to be anodized in the next few days, so we won't have to wait too long for a pic update. I'll have some mod plans drawn up soon as well. Thanks for watching!
  19. nerdalertdk

    Mac Pro Mod - Finished

    Hello all I just upgrade to a Core i7 hackintosh and wanted a case there ware more fitting the my old Powerhack G5 case This will be a worklog so stay tuned for more pictures as i get the parts home. Hardware: MB: GA-X58A-UD3R (Rev2/FF) CPU: Core i7-930 / Corsair H100 Ram: 12Gb (3x4Gb 1600Mhz) GFX: 2 x AMD 6870 1GB CrossFire Wifi: AR5BXB72 with Adapter IR: Infrared Sensor part nr. 922-7195 HD: 500Gb(OSX), 60GB SSD (Windows) PSU: Chill Innovation CP-1000M Parts: Case: Mac Pro pre 2009 Motherboard tray Sry for bad quality the next picture will be better Update: 15/09/2011 After some trouble with shipping and box size, my Motherboard tray is finally on it's way Update: 19/09/2011 Just ordere some sweet cables Update: 22/09/2011 Received my motherboard tray today, so startede to disassemble the mac pro case. Got the middel plate of, was a son of {censored} to get off. Need to cut a hole here for PSU, Front panel cables Removed the PCI card frame Cut down the Sata cable, because i'm going to use a full ATX motherboard the last two sata slots a blocked :/ Update: 09/01/2012 Finally found time to cut out the back, I really like how it turned out. All most done with the back. Here it is i'm really happy with it Now it's time to get the motherboard mounted. And the PSU is now installed Update: 10/01/2012 Allmost done. The H100 is a {censored} to get in and out put there is room Only need to make and connect front audio and USB then i'm done
  20. I'm interested in building a Hack Pro with an SR-2 + dual 5649s. I'm pretty sure one can, with a lot of work, properly fit the gigantic SR-2 with GPUs, HDDs, SSDs, PSU, cooling etc. inside a G5 case. Pretty sure I've even seen modded G5s with SR-2s inside somewhere on the net. But what about the Mac Pro case. It seems a bit tighter: http://i45.tinypic.com/6tnzeu.jpg compared to the G5: http://i50.tinypic.com/72r8sk.jpg What do you think?
  21. Hi guys, I've been lurking on the forums for a while and started slowly building my own g5 mod since the beginning of the year. I didn't want to spend a huge amount of time on it but still wanted it to be neat and functional and look good. I've reached the point where the pc is completely operational, however there are some issues I would like to address, and I would like to still improve on it. Just some back ground and thoughts. Here are some picks of the case once I got it: I initially wanted to mount a mATX mobo inside the case not touching the sides so that I could keep the external ports, but soon realised it would be better to mount it right on the extension card slots, since the back ports wouldn't be functional anyway. I did want to take out the internals of the PSU and replace it with my PSU internals, but I thought I would rather keep the PSU together for when I would ever need to replace or upgrade it in future. I play around a lot with hardware so I want everything to be replaceable. For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to remove the drive bays at the top, or the mounting pins on the back of the case, so I've left them in there. I created my own mounting plate which then goes on the existing mounting pins and then lines up to the extension port openings. I rewired the front panel and have everything working correctly except the firewire port. I bought a 4-port usb extension which is enough for me, and I will be using a wireless ethernet card to connect to the network. I broke my beloved ATI 4870 while moving hardware to and fro between my old case and the new one which was depressing, but it did give me incentive to upgrade. I got a budget 6850, which is suitable to my needs. Here is the mod as it is at the moment: The things I would like to improve upon are: - Would like the back sound ports working (currently using the front panel), though not entirely sure how to go about it. It would be nice to match them to the existing ports, but it doesn't seem possible without rewiring stuff to the old mobo (which might need to be the way to go) - The case gets very hot just below the cdrom, probably from the 3d card and lack of fans. I need fans at the front and the back of the case. Unfortunately due to the way the mobo is mounted I can't fit the existing back fans to the back of the case. I was thinking of using smaller fans? For the front fans I might just fit one of the old fans to a modified middle seperator. - Neaten up the wiring by fitting a cover over the old PSU case, however cutting a hole so that the existing PSU pops out. Unfortunately the 6850's power port points towards the outside which is a bit silly and I can't place the plastic air cover over everything. Otherwise the PC is completely functional at the moment. What do you guys think? Extra info about me and my pc: I'm from Cape Town, South Africa and I'm a software developer. My PC is a i5 2500, 8gb ram and 6850. It's not currently running OSX (My downstairs pc is running osx and I have a macbook air) but I plan to dual install OSX and windows 7 once I can afford a large SSD. (I play a lot of games, but do all my development on OSX, so I want to be able to switch between the two quickly, I may just leave it using only windows 7 and just do all my dev on my laptop, like I am currently)
  22. WhatTheTech

    [Tutorial] - Hackintosh Bluetooth Module

    INTRO This is about the easiest way of adding bluetooth to your hackintosh. Forget nervously waiting to see if the latest update will knock out your 3rd-party bluetooth, this uses an Apple bluetooth module that will never be phased out (or most likely not)! Permalink for this tutorial: http://www.whatthete...ntoshbluetooth/ Parts Needed: Apple Bluetooth Module A1181 ($6 - Make sure you get one with the connector cable!) 2 x 1N4001 Micro 1A Diodes ($4 for one hundred!) iMac Bluetooth Antenna ($7 - Much better reception than the A1118 antenna!) A USB Motherboard Header ($1.99) Tools Needed: This is a very easy modification, but you will also need a few tools: - Soldering Iron & solder - Heat Shrink tubing (1/8" or smaller - electrical tape not recommended for precision work) - Sleeving (optional - example) THE PROCESS: Step 1: Prepping the USB Cable First of all you will want to remove one end of the motherboard header so that just the pins or wires are left, as you can see on the far left of this image: Feel free to just cut one end off and strip down the individual wire casings, ready for soldering. Note: At this point it is recommend that you twist the data wires together along the entire length of the cable. This helps reduce EMI and should give you a more stable signal overall. Step 1.1: (Optional) Sleeving At this point, I would suggest putting the sleeve over your cable because once you've soldered everything it becomes a hassle. Simply slip the sleeving over your cut wires and push it down to the end, as pictured below (as well as one cut of heat shrink to stop that end fraying): Step 2: Prepping the Bluetooth Cable The USB cable is going to be attached to the cable that came with your Apple bluetooth module (pictured below), so also cut the end that would plug into the Apple motherboard (NOT the bluetooth module end). Take care to leave enough cable for soldering and then some. Mistakes are made, and my first bluetooth was ruined because I didn't leave room for error. You should be left with this: Step 3: The Diodes The diodes are important because the bluetooth module will not run on 5V - it needs to be around 3.7V, and may indeed WILL become damaged on regular USB power levels. The two diodes should be soldered into the red power wire nose-to-tail, with the forwards voltage soldered (i.e. going towards the bluetooth module) as shown. Step 4: The Other Wires As you can see from the diagram below, the rest of your soldering is quite simple. The black (ground) cables connect directly together, and the Data cables cross over colorswith green USB going to yellow bluetooth, and white USB going to green bluetooth. This is the main cause of non-working mods, so if nothing is happening when you plug it in, this should be the first thing you check. Get everything soldered and heatshrink the wires individually and you are good to go! Step 5: Placing the Bluetooth Antenna If you have a metal case (and sometimes if you don't) you may find that bluetooth reception is spotty. This can be VERY inconvenient with issues ranging from a jumpy mouse to static from your bluetooth audio feed. Below are some general tips (in particular order) to ensure that you have the best experience possible. - As mentioned, make sure that you twist the data wires together. This reduces EMI and really does make an incredible difference in certain cases. - Use a longer antenna. If you have been inside any mac desktop, you will know that the antennas they use are long, and usually end up (the actually antenna part) somewhere near the outside of the case. This is for a good reason, so check out the original link or search around for the best price on a long antenna cable. - When mounting your antenna to your case, make sure the front of the antenna is not the side attached to the case. Preferably use double-sided tape/foam so that the antenna is not touching metal. - As far as best positioning, it really depends on your case. There is no formula for this except trial and error. A useful tip for helping you gauge bluetooth signal: There are apps for both iOS and Android that have a built-in bluetooth strength meter. Place your phone/tablet on the table where your mouse would be, and move the bluetooth antenna around the case. It would be a good idea to put the side panel on with each placement to get a more accurate reading. This is how I found out that my signal was better at the back on my case rather than right at the front like I had it initially!
  23. Looking at the fitting for the plug on the G5, it looks like a careful cutting of it would let it be grafted from the bottom of the back to the top. Obviously some bondo would need to be used to get a smooth graft. Just curious if this has been done. I'm mulling it over and was looking for examples of others doing it (so I can learn from their experience) but was unable to find anything. Cheers.