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  1. I have put together this simple little guide for anybody wanting to use a Patched DSDT EFI with the same configuration as me. This is also a thread to discuss everything Z390 Pro and try and help where we can and maybe make things a little better for you. A huge massive thank you to @glasgood @MaLd0n @larabee These three guys have helped me and talked me so much and are as helpful as you could ever get, Without them I wouldn't have a perfect working build like I do or be putting up this Guide & Discussion Thread sharing the hard work and countless hours that we have all put in to this. This EFI and Patched DSDT have been created to work with a Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Pro, 9900k with a Vega 56 but has also been tested and verified fully working with the following Hardware CPU's 8700k, 9600k, 9700k, 9900k GPU's RX 560, 570, 580, 590, Vega 56, Vega 64, Radion VII (If you have success with any different CPU or GPU's then please do let me know) There Is No Better Guide Then The One That @glasgood Has Already Written So Just Follow He's Guide For a Perfect Install. HARDWARE USED • Intel I9 9900k • Gigabyte AORUS Z390 PRO • Sapphire Nitro+ SE Vega56 ( connected to monitor with DisplayPort ) • Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 16GB @3200mhz (2 x 8GB) • Corsair RM850x 80 Plus Gold Power Supply Unit • Coolermaster MASTERLIQUID ML360R RGB CPU Cooler • Samsung 970 EVO 1TB NVMe SSD macOS Mojave • Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD (2.5) Windows 10 Pro • ABWB BCM943602CS 802.11AC WI-FI With Bluetooth 4.0 PCI-Express (PCI-E) • Lian Li PC-O11DW Dynamic ATX Case WORKING • Sound • Ethernet Port • WiFi • SSD Trim • USB 3.0 & 2.0 (All ports Open Natively) • AirDrop • iCloud • Hardware Acceleration • iMessages • Facetime • Sleep & Wake • Sleep and Shutdown via the Power Button • Handoff • Netflix on Safari browser • Continuity CLOVER FOLDER Use this folder with fully patched DSDT Z390 Pro DSDT EFI.zip (Updated 21 July 2019) ADDITIONAL DSDT's (A big thanks to @MaLd0n for compiling these extra DSDT's) If your using a Vega 56/64 or Radion VII then use this DSDT (already installed in my EFI) DSDT.VEGA.VII.zip If your using a RX Series or Nvidia GPU then use this DSDT DSDT.RXxxx.NVIDIA.zip To Create Your Own Patched DSDT Message @MaLd0n using the link bellow https://olarila.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1131 (If you want a perfect setup then getting your own patched DSDT made would be the best thing to do, Mine will work perfectly fine but different hardware no matter how small a change it is can tend to have some sort of effect on the DSDT and your setup) If Your Not Using File Vault Then Please Disable Hibernate disablehibernate.command ADDITONAL DOWNLOADS Clover Clover Configurator Kext Updater OPTIONAL DOWNLOADS AirportBrcmFixup.kext (If your Wifi Card isn't working after installing my EFI then add the AirportBrcmFixup.kext to your clover kext folder and reboot) FakeSMC (Can be used instead of VirtualSMC) Hackintool IORegistryExplorer Native Display Brightness with MonitorControl BIOS SETTINGS (Bios Revision F10) • Enter BIOS → Press F12 → Enter Setup • Save & Exit → Load Optimized Defaults • BIOS → Windows 8/10 Features → Other OS • BIOS → CSM Support → Enabled (Can be set to disabled depending on what GPU you use) • MIT → Advanced Memory Settings → Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P) → Enabled • Peripherals → Initial Display Output → PCIe 1 Slot • Peripherals → Trusted Computing → Security Device Support → Disable • Peripherals → Intel(R)Bios Guard → Intel BIOS Guard Support → Disable • Peripherals → USB Configuration → Legacy USB Support → Enabled • Peripherals → USB Configuration → XHCI Hand-off → Enabled • Peripherals → Network Stack Configuration → Network Stack → Disabled • Peripherals → SATA And RST Configuration → SATA Mode Selection → AHCI • Chipset → Vt-d → Enabled (can be enabled or disabled, your choice) • Chipset → Internal Graphics → Disabled • Chipset → Audio Controller → Enabled • Chipset → Above 4G Decoding → Disabled • Power → Platform Power Management → Enabled • Power → ErP → Enabled (can be enabled or disabled, your choice) • Power → RC6 (Render Standby) → Disabled • Save & Exit → Save & Exit Setup SCREENSHOTS
  2. Greetings all!!! I just wanted to take a moment to share my installation notes for this particular laptop. Took me awhile to get it up and running with Yosemite 10.10.5 (and a LOT of googling and research), but I have what I consider to be a complete system with working wifi, bluetooth, audio, video, webcam, and more. As I said, this is just some notes I collected while I was going through the process. While it isn't a complete guide, I will do my best to be as straightforward as possible so that, hopefully, you will spend less time Googling and more time enjoying your system. Installation was done using Niresh's Yosemite with AMD & Intel using mostly default options. Specs for this laptop can be found here: http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03478476 Wifi card is a Ralink RT5390, doesn't work. I did not replace the card, I simply purchased this usb wifi dongle : Edimax EW-7811Un from Amazon based on the information I found here : WikiDevi Discovered that native OS X drivers are available for this USB wifi chipset. This laptop also contains an Intel HD 3000 GPU. Graphics performance was horrible under 10.10.1. After three days of trying to figure it out, I was ready to try anything. SO, I allowed the combo update to 10.10.5. Rebooted, and found I had complete graphics acceleration. 512MB RAM showing, native kexts with full HDMI support. Built-in Ethernet is Realtek. Using the following kext: AppleRTL8169Ethernet.kext . Had to add BuiltinEthernet=Yes to chameleon boot plist. Also using NVRAM 1.1.3 Bluetooth is also using a USB dongle from Best Buy: Insignia Bluetooth 4.0 USB working using native bluetooth kext just having to add the device I.D. (thus, the magic pad and Apple wireless keyboard work flawlessly) SMBios is set to Macbook 8,1 (thus, using latest voodoo battery, I get battery percentage working) Audio works OTB Here is how my boot plist is set up: <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd"> <plist version="1.0"> <dict> <key>Graphics Mode</key> <string>1366x768x32</string> <key>Kernel Flags</key> <string>debug=8 ahcidisk=1</string> <key>Theme</key> <string>DType</string> <key>Timeout</key> <string>10</string> <key>EthernetBuiltIn</key> <string>Yes</string> </dict> </plist> Webcam works OTB That's all I can really think of right now. It's around 5:30 in the morning on the East coast and I have been meaning to type this up and share. I will clean this up and organize it more as I get the chance. But, do feel free to ask any questions. I honestly am not an expert on this but I did take the time to research and learn everything before I started and as I went along to get as close to a near flawless install as I could. Still trying to get brightness control working without having to switch from chameleon to another boot loader. Thanks for your time and patience.
  3. ---TUTORIAL--- https://olarila.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8685 --Original Post-- https://olarila.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=97&t=11237 --Bios/UEFI Settings-- *Update bios/uefi to F7+* 1- Go to M.I.T./Advanced Frequency Settings tab Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.) - Profile 1 2- Go to BIOS tab CSM Support - Disabled 3- Go to Peripherals/Thunderbolt(TM) Configuration tab Security Level - No Security Thunderbolt USB Support - Enabled GPIO3 Force Pwr - Enabled 4- Go to Chipset tab Internal Graphics - Enable ---CLOVER FOLDER--- https://olarila.com/forum/download/file.php?id=25033 *Use this folder with FULL DSDT PATCHED ---OPENCORE FOLDER--- https://olarila.com/forum/download/file.php?id=24376 *Use this folder with FULL DSDT PATCHED ---Extract one Full dump for DSDT edits, post files--- RunMe.app ---HARDWARE--- --MOBO GIGABYTE Z390 DESIGNARE -Link https://www.amazon.com/Z390-DESIGNARE-Gigabyte-Thunderbolt-Motherboard/dp/B07K8RJZRG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Z390+DESIGNARE&qid=1565492390&s=electronics&sr=1-1 --PROCESSOR Intel Core i9-9900K -Link https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i9-9900K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B005404P9I/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Intel+Core+i9-9900K&qid=1553358099&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 --COOLER CORSAIR H100i RGB PLATINUM AIO Liquid CPU Cooler -Link https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-H100i-PLATINUM-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B07JWB5BSN/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=WATER+COOLER+CPU&qid=1565492509&s=gateway&sr=8-4 --MEMORY Corsair CMW32GX4M2C3200C16 Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4-25600) -Link https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CMW32GX4M2C3200C16-Vengeance-PC4-25600-Desktop/dp/B07GTG2T7L/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=memory+ddr4+32&qid=1553358238&s=gateway&sr=8-15 --GPU MSI RX Vega 64 AIR Boost 8G OC -Link https://www.amazon.com/MSI-RX-64-AIR-8G/dp/B07DH7S1X1/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=vega+64+gigabyte&qid=1565492819&s=electronics&sr=1-2 --SSD Samsung 970 EVO 1TB SSD (MZ-V7E1T0BW) NVMe M.2 V-NAND -Link https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=s+samsung+970+evo+1tb&qid=1565493002&s=electronics&sr=1-1 --POWER SUPPLY EVGA Supernova 1000 P2 80+ Platinum, 1000W ECO Mode Fully Modular -Link https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Platinum-Crossfire-220-P2-1000-XR/dp/B00EKJQM5E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=power+supply+1000w&qid=1565493196&s=gateway&sr=8-3 --WIRELESS TP-Link Archer T9E -Link https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Technology/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=TP-Link+Archer+T9E&qid=1553358397&s=gateway&sr=8-1 --CASE Thermaltake Core P5 Tempered Glass Black Edition ATX Open Frame Panoramic Viewing -Link https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Tempered-Panoramic-Certified-CA-1E7-00M1WN-03/dp/B01N4IGVSC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Thermaltake+Core+P5&qid=1565493567&s=gateway&sr=8-2 --DSDT Patches-- -FIX ACPI ERRORS -FIX OEM SSDTs to AVOID ERRORS AND WARNINGS -REMOVE UNUSED SCOPES / DEVICES -HIGH PRECISION EVENT TIMER -SATA -DMAC -REMOVE PROBLEMATIC AND UNUSED DEVICES -FIX K.P in REBOOT -SLPB -DARWIN / WINDOWS 2015 -XHCI -PLUGIN TYPE -HDAS to HDEF -HDEF -REAL TIME CLOCK -ARTC -IRQs -SBUS -BUS1 -MCHC -ALS0 -SHUTDOWN -LAN -FWHD -USBX -PMCR -PPMC -XSPI -CNVW -GMM -IMEI -EC -PNLF -ARPT -GFX0 -NVME -DTGP -ACQUIRE MUT0 0XFFFF -MUTEX MUT0 0x00 -EXTERNAL REFERENCES -UNKNOWNOBJ -HDMI / HDAU -FULL RENAMED DEVICES ---SCREENSHOTs--- -Credits and thanks to the old and new people in the community who developed patches, kexts and bootloaders! Thanks to KGP for SSDT Thunderbolt Slice, Kabyl, usr-sse2, jadran, Blackosx, dmazar, STLVNUB, pcj, apianti, JrCs, pene, FrodoKenny, skoczy, ycr.ru, Oscar09, xsmile, SoThOr, RehabMan, Download-Fritz, Zenit432, cecekpawon, Intel, Apple, Oracle, Chameleon Team, crazybirdy, Mieze, Mirone, Oldnapalm, netkas, Elconiglio, artut-pt, ErmaC, Pavo, Toleda, Master Chief and family, bcc9, The King, PMheart, Sherlocks, Micky1979, vit9696, vandroiy2013, Voodoo Team, Pike R. Alpha, lvs1974, Austere.J, CVad, Sampath007, onemanosx, erroruser, Jenny David, Olarila Facebook Community, Hackintosh Facebook Community and many others! We're all here to have fun and learn from each other!
  4. This tutorial has been updated on GITHUB to 10.14 and 10.15 the tutorial on insanelymac got too fragmented for a simple forum thread and will not be updated, but still be used for discussion and hints, tips and tricks Dell XPS 15 (9550, Version of 2016) Sierra 10.13.1 Tutorial Before we start: this installation includes real time DSDT/SSDT patching from within clover. This is pretty easy to install. But it is NOT suited for people with no or only few knowledge in Hackintosh Systems. If you only know how to copy commands in your shell and you dont know what they're doing, then stop the tutorial and revert to windows or buy a real mac. Even if you get it running: this system is not failsafe and will be broken multiple times in its usage time, where you have to fix it without a tutorial. Optional steps are marked in GREEN, System dependent steps are BLUE English is not my mother-tongue and i'm writing this without proof reading, so please forgive my bad spelling If you've questions or something doesn't work: first check if you've done all steps of this tutorial! If yes: please read the whole thread (doesn't matter how long it is) before asking to prevent multiple questions. Additionally do a search in google and this forum. Credits: Many knowledge of "how to hackintosh a dell in the first place" by the tutorial of @Gymnae http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/319766-dell-xps-9550-detailled-1011-guide/ Using many kexts and solutions from @RehabMan What's not working: Hibernation (works somehow, but high chance to destroy your whole data), Sleep works fine! SD-Card reader Killer 1535 Wifi (rarely used, need replace) nVidia Graphics card (Intel works) FileVault 2 (full HDD encryption) Requirements: one working MAC OS X Enviroment 16GB USB Stick (larger is sometimes not bootable and/or requires advanced partitioning) MacOS High Sierra 10.13.1 installation file from the app store (redownload, just in case) Knowledge in PLIST editing USB Harddrive for backup - you'll loose all data on your computer! Step 1: Prepare Installation Use the existing Mac to download the Sierra installer from the App Store and create a bootable USB stick with CLOVER. You can do this with the App "Pandora's Box" of insanelymac (use google for download link), which is pretty easy to use. Optional: check if your SSD can be switched to 4k sector size. This prevents NVMe corruption. See https://github.com/wmchris/DellXPS15-9550-OSX/blob/10.13/4k_sector.md After you've finished you need to download the Dell XPS 15 specific configurations for clover. Link: https://github.com/wmchris/DellXPS15-9550-OSX/archive/10.13.zip and unzip this file or checkout git directly: git clone https://github.com/wmchris/DellXPS15-9550-OSX.git You only need the folder 10.13, you can delete the 10.11. I'll refer to this folder by "git/" Now mount the hidden EFI partition of the USB Stick by entering diskutil mount EFI Inside the terminal. Mac OS will automaticly mount the EFI partition of the USB stick, but just in case: make sure it really is Overwrite everything in the CLOVER folder of the partition EFI with the content of git/10.13/CLOVER. If your PC has a Core i5 processor, you'll have to modify your config.plist in EFI/EFI/CLOVER/: search for the Key ig-platform-id: 0x191b0000 and replace it with 0x19160000. If you could use the 4k sector patch, replace the config.plist with the 4kconfig.plist. If you use a hynix device and you didnt do the 4k sector switch, you'll have to add the following patch to your config.plist <key>Comment</key> <string>IONVMeFamily Pike R. Alpha Hynix SSD patch</string> <key>Disabled</key> <false/> <key>Find</key> <data>9sEQD4UcAQAA</data> <key>Name</key> <string>IONVMeFamily</string> <key>Replace</key> <data>9sECD4UcAQAA</data> Go into the EFI Configuration (BIOS) of your Dell XPS 15: Also disable the SD-Card Reader to reduce the power consumption drastically. Insert the stick on the Dell XPS 15 and boot it up holding the F12 key to get in the boot-menu and start by selecting your USB-Stick (if you've done it correctly it's named "Clover: Install macOS Sierra", otherwise it's just the brandname of your USB-Drive). You should get to the MacOS Installation like on a real mac. If you're asked to log-in with your apple-id: select not now! Reason: see Step 5. Step 2: Partition and Installation INFORMATION: after this step your computer will loose ALL data! So if you haven't created a backup, yet: QUIT NOW! Dont install macOS yet. Select the Diskutil and delete the old partitions. Create a new HFS partition and name it "OSX". If you want to multiboot with Windows 10, then you'll have to create a second partition, too (also HFS! Dont use FAT or it will not boot! You have to reformat it when installing Windows). Make sure to select GUID as partition sheme. Close the Diskutil and install OSX normally. You'll have to reboot multiple times, make sure to always boot using the attached USB stick. So dont forget to press F12. After the first reboot you should see a new boot option inside clover, which is highlighted by default. Just press enter. If you only see one, then something went wrong. Step 3: Make it bootable After a few reboots you should be inside your new macOS enviroment. You can always boot into it using the USB stick. Remove the USB drive after successful bootup. Enter diskutil mount EFI in your terminal, which should mount the EFI partition of your local installation. install git/Additional/Tools/Clover_v2.4k_r4003.pkg. Make sure to select "Install Clover in ESP". Also select to install the RC-Scripts. This should install the Clover Boot System. Now copy everything from git/10.13/CLOVER to EFI/CLOVER like you did before by creating the usb stick. (if you had to modify the config.plist in step 1, do it here, too). Your system should be bootable by itself. Reboot and check if your system can boot by itself. Step 4: Post Installation Because all DSDT/SSDT changes are already in the config.plist, you dont need to recompile your DSDT (albeit i suggest doing it anyway to make your system a lil bit more failsafe, see gymnaes El-Capitan tutorial for more informations). So we can skip this part and go directly to the installation of the required kexts. Open a terminal and goto the GIT folder. sudo cp -r ./Post-Install/LE-Kexts/* /Library/Extensions/ sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/AppleACPIPS2Nub.kext /System/Library/Extensions/AppleACPIPS2Nub.bak 2> /dev/null sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/ApplePS2Controller.kext /System/Library/Extensions/ApplePS2Controller.bak 2> /dev/null sudo ./AD-Kexts/VoodooPS2Daemon/_install.command Now you'll have to replace the config.plist. Because you'll install modified kexts you'll HAVE TO replace the config.plist in your installation. Otherwise your PC will not boot anymore. diskutil mount EFI replace EFI/CLOVER/config.plist with git/Post-Install/CLOVER/config.plist. Again: if your PC has a Core i5 processor, search the config.plist for the Key ig-platform-id: 0x191b0000 and replace it with 0x19160000. OPTIONAL (in case you've audio problems): AppleHDA has some problems after Wake-Up. You'll have to plug in a headphone to get your speakers working again. You can use VoodooHDA instead, which breaks the headphone jack most of the time, but makes the rest much more stable. sudo rm -r /Library/Extensions/CodecCommander.kext sudo rm /EFI/EFI/CLOVER/ACPI/patched/SSDT-ALC298.aml then remove from your config.plist from the key "KextsToPatch" the elements "AppleHDA#1" to "AppleHDA#7". Install the package: git/Post-Install/AD-Kexts/VoodooHDA-2.8.8.pkg i also suggest moving some of the kext from EFI/CLOVER/kexts/10.13 to /Library/Extensions. It's just more stable. Finalize the kext-copy by recreating the kernel cache: sudo rm -rf /System/Library/Caches/com.apple.kext.caches/Startup/kernelcache sudo rm -rf /System/Library/PrelinkedKernels/prelinkedkernel sudo touch /System/Library/Extensions && sudo kextcache -u / sometimes you'll have to redo the last command if your system shows "Lock acquired". OSX 10.12.2 removed the posibility to load unsigned code. You can enable this by entering sudo spctl --master-disable If you're using the 4K monitor, you'll have to copy the UHD enabling kexts to your clover directory: sudo cp ./Post-Install/AD-Kexts/UHD-Kexts/* /EFI/EFI/CLOVER/kexts/10.13/ To enable GPU acceleration: Edit your clover config file again and remove the following block from it: To prevent getting in hibernation (which can and will corrupt your data), just set the default sleep mode to "suspend to ram" (sleep) instead of "suspend to disk" (hibernation) sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 0 To get HDMI Audio working: Search for your Boarrd-ID in the config.plist and open /S/E/AppleGraphicsControl.kext/contents/plugin/AppleGraphicePolicy.kext/contents/info.plist with a texteditor. Search for your board-id in there and change the value of it from "Config2" to "none" OPTIONAL (alternative power management): the whole power management is done by intels speed step technology (HWP), which is enabled in the clover config. If you want to let OSX manage the power management, you'll have to do these steps: sudo cp ./Post-Install/CLOVER/ACPI/optional/SSDT.aml /EFI/EFI/CLOVER/ACPI/patched/ then open the config.plist (/EFI/EFI/CLOVER/config.plist) and change <key>HWPEnable</key><true/> to <key>HWPEnable</key><false/>. Step 5: iServices (AppStore, iMessages etc.) WARNING! DONT USE YOUR MAIN APPLE ACCOUNT FOR TESTING! It's pretty common that apple BANS your apple-id from iMessage and other services if you've logged in on not well configured hackintoshs! If you want to use the iServices, you'll have to do some advanced steps, which are not completly explained in this tutorial. First you need to switch the faked network device already created by step 4 to be on en0. Goto your network settings and remove every network interface. sudo rm /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/NetworkInterfaces.plist Reboot, go back in the network configuration and add the network interfaces (LAN) before Wifi. You also need to modify your SMBIOS in the config.plist of Clover in your EFI partition with valid informations about your "fake" mac. There are multiple tutorials which explain how to do it like "http://www.fitzweekly.com/2016/02/hackintosh-imessage-tutorial.html". It's possible you have to call the apple hotline to get your fake serial whitelisted by telling a good story why apple forgot to add your serial number in their system. (aka: dont do it if you dont own a real mac). I personally suggest using real data from an old (broken) macbook. Step 6: Upgrading to macOS 10.13.2 or higher / installing security updates Each upgrade will possibly break your system! (Update: after the latest updates in this tutorial the system should be update-proof.) Step 7: Fixes / Enhancements / Alternative Solutions / Bugs See: https://github.com/wmchris/DellXPS15-9550-OSX/blob/10.13/Tutorial_10.13_Step7.md Afterword and fixes as i said before: this is not a tutorial for absolute beginners, albeit it's much easier then most other tutorials, because most is preconfigured in the supplied config.plist. Some Dells have components included, which are not supported by these preconfigured files. Then i can only suggest using Gymnaes tutorial which explains most of the DSDT patching, config.plist editing and kexts used in detail and use the supplied files here as templates. Warning: Some people have reported multiple data losses on this machine. I suggest using time-machine whenever possible! If your device is detected as "Model Name: Apple Device", see: http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/319764-guide-dell-xps-15-9550-sierra-10122-quick-installation/page-13?do=findComment&comment=2362337 If you want to save the settings of the display brightness: downgrade to clover 3899, in the never versions the nvram restore is broken. USBInjectAll is not intended for permanent use. You should check which USB are really required to be injected and modify your DSDT/SSDT. 4K Touchscreen only: Multitouch can be achieved with the driver from touch-base.com, but it's not open source - costs > 100 $ Not a bug: if you REALLY want to use the 4K Display natively and disable the Retina Mode (max 1920x1080), see: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/macbook-pro-retina-display-faq/macbook-pro-retina-display-hack-to-run-native-resolution.html Tutorial Updates 27. March 2017: UHD Kexts added, replaces perl command 23. March 2017: 4k sector tutorial against NVMe corruption added 7. March 2017: Suggestion to disable the SD Card Reader for reduced power consumption 4. February 2017: Dell SMBIOS Truncation workaround added 23. January 2017: Hynix SSD fix added 31. December 2016: USB-C Hotplug Fix and USB InjectAll Removed 28. December 2016: NVMe SSDT Spoof precreated, FakeID already preset in installation config.plist. VoodooHDA added as alternative to SSDT-ALC298 patch as well as color coding in tutorial 22. December 2016: FakeSMBios added Accessories Appendix: The official Dell adaptor DA200 (http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=at&l=de&s=dhs&cs=atdhs1&sku=470-abry) works completly on Sierra 10.2.2. You can use the Network, USB, HDMI and VGA. Everything is Hot-Pluggable a cheap 3rd party noname USB-C -> VGA adaptor didnt work you can charge the Dell with a generic USB-C Power Adaptor, but USB-C has only a maximum power of 100W, so it's either charging OR usage, not both. Dont forget you need a special USB-C cable (Power Delivery 3.0) for charging.
  5. ---INSTALLATION TUTORIAL--- ---Original Post--- https://olarila.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=9172 ---USB--- https://pikeralpha.wordpress.com/2016/07/13/simple-skylake-usb-fix-no-kexts-required/ ---CLOVER FOLDER--- CLOVER.zip --MOBO GigaByte Z390 M Gaming --PROCESSOR Intel Core i9-9900K --COOLER CoolerMaster MasterLiquid ML120R RGB --MEMORY Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) --GPU Sapphiretech Radeon RX 590 8 GB GDDR5 --SSD Samsung 970 EVO NVMe M2 Flash Drive --POWER SUPPLY EVGA 750 N1, 750W --WIRELESS TP-Link Archer T9E --BLUETOOTH Orico BTA-403 --CASE Thermaltake View 21 Tempered Glass Edition --DSDT Patches-- -FIX ERRORS AND WARNINGS -FIX ACPI ERRORS -REMOVE UNUSED SCOPES / DEVICES -HIGH PRECISION EVENT TIMER -SATA SERIE 10 ID -DMAC -REMOVE 22K LINES, PROBLEMATIC and UNUSED -FIX K.P in REBOOT -NVRAM / REAL TIME CLOCK -SLPB -DARWIN / WINDOWS 2015 -XHCI -PLUGIN TYPE -HDAS to HDEF -HDEF -REAL TIME CLOCK -ARTC -IRQs -SBUS -MIKEY -BUS1 -MCHC -ALS0 -SHUTDOWN -UAR1 -LAN -FWHD -USBX -PMCR -PPMC -XSPI -GMM -IMEI -EC -PNLF -ARPT -GFX0 -NVME -DTGP -ACQUIRE MUT0 0XFFFF -OPERATION REGION GPIO -MUTEX MUT0 0x00 -EXTERNAL REFERENCES -UNKNOWNOBJ -HDMI / HDAU -FULL RENAMED DEVICES --SCREENSHOTS-- --BruceX-- --USB-C-- test with SanDisk Ultra USB-STICK 128gb -Credits and thanks to the old and new people in the community who developed patches, kexts and bootloaders! Slice, Kabyl, usr-sse2, jadran, Blackosx, dmazar, STLVNUB, pcj, apianti, JrCs, pene, FrodoKenny, skoczy, ycr.ru, Oscar09, xsmile, SoThOr, RehabMan, Download-Fritz, Zenit432, cecekpawon, Intel, Apple, Oracle, Chameleon Team, crazybirdy, Mieze, Mirone, Oldnapalm, netkas, Elconiglio, artut-pt, ErmaC, Pavo, Toleda, Master Chief and family, bcc9, The King, PMheart, Sherlocks, Micky1979, vit9696, vandroiy2013, Voodoo Team, Pike R. Alpha, lvs1974, Austere.J, CVad, Sampath007, onemanosx, erroruser, Jenny David, Olarila Facebook Community, Hackintosh Facebook Community and many others! We're all here to have fun and learn from each other!
  6. kemalrzky_

    Ask Hackintosh for corporate

    Hey guys, I have 80 computers in my office, i got many trouble with windows updating schedule cause time waste and bug for programs. And i've thinking, how about hackintosh. it's cool OS and couldn't get that sucks update by time isn't it? So the question is, is it okay if i use hackintosh for company? Considered for reduce cost of changing "money machines" for company investment and rather use this hackintosh. Sorry for my English. Regards, Hackintosher.
  7. Hi, i can someone help me with installing mac OS Mojave on my HP ENVY - 15-as102na?I have an imac to use for setting up my usb & installing MacOS Mojave.There are various kext files etc that i'm not sure about and need some help as some are hardware specific.I tried previously but got stuck on an apple logo and couldn't get past that, and tried today and had problems with Clover. Once i get mac os on my 128gb m.2 ssd ( which i'll upgrade to either a 256gb or 512gb depending on how well this hackintosh works) I have a free 2.5" inch hdd bay where i'd like to install windows on in the future. I think i may have to replace my wireless card ( based on a few google results) which i'm fine with as long as i can see it working without just so i know i won't waste moneySpecs:Cpu: i5 7200uGPU: HD 6208GB ramWifi card- Intel Wireless 7265 ( Intel® 802.11ac (2x2) )Motherboard - HP 81D2 & BIOS version is f.56 https://support.hp.com/gb-en/document/c05311862 Thanks
  8. So, I am officially crazy... I bought 26 Powermacs (G5) And I modded them ALL They are now ready for ATX and mATX Mainboards… But why 26? Did I mention I was crazy?! (And they were only sold together…) I modded G5 Cases before – They kind of became my passion. This time I wanted everything to be perfect: - Keep as much of the original design as possible - Cut as less as possible - Since it is impossible to find a G5 Case without dents and scratches, I wanted to paint them, freshly. I am done now and it is time to share my experiences: It was a rough 6 months from start to finish. The project kept me busy during all of the winter. I worked every weekend on it, till late. I need to apologize… …to my family for occupying their workshop, guest rooms and garages …to my friends for neglecting them during the last months …to the dogs and the cat for waking them up from their afternoon nap every now and then (because of the metalwork-noise). I hope to be able and show everybody that it was worth it - And that someone out there is appreciating the work, as well. Back me up, guys - Spread the love :-) I believe in Apples high quality and the unique design of Sir Jony Ive My mods include a preinstalled power supply (and even watercooling on some) Countless hours of work and high-quality components & tools were used Of course, you can come and have a look if you are near the South of Germany (or the North of Switzerland). Finished Builds: I do not have the money to equip all cases with CPU, RAM and SSDs right now. But it would be so much fun to do it, now that all the hard work is done. I will definitively equip machines later and build completely custom machines I already equipped two of the shown modded cases with complete hardware. One was for a music-studio. One for my brother. Threads for the finished build projects will be linked here later: Workstation & Gaming-Beast for my brother: - ATX- X99-Mainbaord - 8-Core Intel XEON E5-1660 v3 (Overclocked to 4 GHz - all-core) - 64GB ECC-RAM (Registered DIMMs) with dual Copper heatsinks & Heatpipes - 3x1TB SSD RAID5 - Two 1080Ti in SLI (two flexible SLI Bridges were later installed) Ryzentosh (For music production studio): o mATX Mainboard o Ryzen 1700X o biggest cooler on the market (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro) o 32GB RAM (ECC Unregistered DIMMs) with Aluminium heatsinks o 3x1TB SSD RAID5 A finished (painted) case from the outside. The Apple logo is gone after painting… For the better, I think! The rear of a finished build Preliminaries: All the planning that goes into modding one case actually affected 26 cases. It had to be perfect. That’s why I planned every step and every purchase of parts, meticulously. Then I applied every individual operation to all cases, one after another. This raised the quality of all cases. The metalwork (Filing, sanding, equalizing, gluing and painting) took a very long time. I don’t even know how many hours it took per case because I always did one individual operation to all cases (e.g. filing or cutting) and then started the next task. It probably took a couple of days per G5. Then I broke my shoulder in May 2017 (doing something stupid on an Austrian glacier). That made it harder to do the sanding for a couple of weeks. But even though it was painful, I couldn’t stop... The different case-types: The painting turned out very well. I chose the best 14 cases after painting and decided to finish modding them, completely. I will call these “Barebones” in the following. In the pyramid-pictures they are always on top, because they were finished last and taken to the workshop more often. The 14 best cases got equipped with a 600W PSU, front-panel, water-cooling (for the mATX Barebones), apple power-cables, etc… They are now proper Barebones. No more hard work needed to finish the build. Just missing a motherboard (and maybe hard drives) - and done. 12 other cases did not end up perfectly painted, but still good. Some orange peel here and there. Only 4 of them have stronger orange peel. I will call these 12 cases “Empty Ones” in the following. An “empty case” What to do with the “Empty Ones”? They are also clean and modded. Ready for ATX or mATX boards, empty PSU-Enclosure… One could make furniture or art out of them… One could finish the mod with a new front panel. Or one could paint them again in a different colour… I don’t know… Let’s start from the beginning: Delivery: first we sorted the cases from “good condition” to “scratched and scuffed” This sorting turned out to be useless, later as I ended up sanding, filling and painting all of them. I chose the best ones in the end. We disassembled everything and sorted the parts – plastics, aluminium, batteries, electronics, etc… then gave everything to recycling. I am an environmental engineer, so this was important to me. I gave away all parts that could possibly be reused - Like fans, RAM and graphics cards. There are no pictures of the disassembly, because it has been done by many people already and we were also too busy (it took a couple of days). We ended up making our own tools and screwdrivers for removing the processors and mainboards, because many screws are hard to reach. All parts that I wanted to keep were cleaned and kept separately. E.g. the fan grilles on the back, the rubber screws for the HDD Caddy or the DVD-drive stand-offs Planning & Conversion Then I made a plan for the easiest ATX conversion with the least cutting. Best thing to do: Cut an opening to the back - big enough for ATX boards I/O and reuse the original PCIe slots for graphics cards. This turned out to be just perfect. I tested different boards. E.g.: ASUS TUF X99 (ATX) and ASrock AB350M (mATX) Night shift – working with the Dremel First cut for the ATX Mainboard I/O. All the Internals are removed. Also, the fan grille with its many mini-screws. So that the plastic is not melting. Cut-out (before filing and sanding). Sharp edges. Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges. Then the filing and sanding removed all sharp edges. I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy. This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils. I made two different stencils. One for ATX Boards and one for mATX Boards: Putting the standoff through the stencil and securing it with a screw Cleaning the surface before gluing. Both stencils with standoffs and fresh glue – right before placing it in the cases ATX stencil in the case – gluing down the standoffs. mATX stencil while gluing. It had to sit like this over night to make sure the glue is hard. Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. All stand-offs / threads are in the right position for standart mainboards, now. Now that all the disassembly, cutting and gluing was done it was time for some fresh paint. The painting: Before painting it was necessary to fill dents, file edges (there were chips, especially on the feet) and sand EVERYTHING to smoothen the surface and remove unwanted oils. Fill, file, sand, repeat… I used 2K Aluminium epoxy to fill dents The Epoxy is like a cold weld. Hard and sturdy. Dents before filling Dents after filling - before sanding More filling Filled and sanded case.   At first I did not want to paint them myself. So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks). They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts. The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint… I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach. So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...) What a fool I was. This took a week. First of all, I needed a cleanroom. So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden. Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm. To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would leave marks on the fresh paint). I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before. Paint-Shed from the inside Hanging case before spray-painting Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time. All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats. After spray-painting it was time for drying The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in. The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result: The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4. The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards. Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link? The “Empty Ones”: This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin: Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet. An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards. Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans. A finished ”empty” mATX case You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones” I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones: Time for re-assembly: Fan-Bracket: The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case. I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand. The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable). The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects) Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing Front-Panel: The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable. Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise. The case without any front-panel board or power-button. Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases. Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match. Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again. Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector: Installation of the front-panel board. The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted. The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work. I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify. Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds. For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings. Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector. Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability. DVD / Blu-Ray drive: Eject the disc tray with a paper clip. Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those) Standoffs installed Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done. PSU (Power Supply Unit): I thought a long time about the perfect PSU. I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability. The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable. How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU? I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing. So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound. Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors. Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti. Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing. Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints. The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension. The input-filter is still connected to the socket. The Apple power-cord. I found the perfect PSU. A 600W PSU by Supermicro. Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive. Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU. The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating. That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available. Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now) 80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet. All PSUs before they were put in It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing. The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord. Securing the PSU in place The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts. Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug. They also have a bigger input filter. Soldering the extension on. Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside PSU inside the original Apple-Housing All the cables come out near the back of the case. I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through. All PSUs are prepared The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester. These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal. PSU-Cables: - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter) - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well. - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter) - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case) You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard. The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed) HDD-Caddy: The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone. Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore) ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place Finished ATX Barebones: Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management Watercooling (mATX Barebones): Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases. I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones: Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case. This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop. The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment. The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+) Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out. You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure). Equipment: I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables) All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag. Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling: Here are some pictures of the internal layout: Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts. Finished mATX Barebone Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment Types of cases & Barebones: What I have right now: 12 fully modded Barebones: 6 - mATX - with watercooling 6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit) 12 “Empty Ones” - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel) - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel) The End: Thats it for now… What do you think? Was it worth it? What hardware would you put in? Please let me know… ;-) Yours, sincerely wise_rice
  9. All of this videos are mine. Subscribe to my channel for other videos!
  10. GLASGOOD'S MOJAVE HACKINTOSH GUIDE GIGABYTE AORUS PRO Z390 CREDITS & THANKS @MaLd0n His help with EFI configuration and DSDT CLOVER TEAM Slice, Kabyl, usr-sse2, jadran, Blackosx, dmazar, STLVNUB, pcj, apianti, JrCs, pene, FrodoKenny, skoczy, ycr.ru, Oscar09, xsmile, SoThOr, rehabman, Download-Fritz, Zenit432, cecekpawon Et al APPLEALC Acidanthera, vit9696 VOODOOHDA autumnrain, slice2009, zenith432 ESP PRO MOUNTER @Micky1979 HACKINTOOL @headkaze CLOVER CONFIGURATOR Mackie100 THEME ENGINE Alex Zielenski INSANELYMAC OLARILA Hackintool Tutorial daliansky Hackintosh Vanilla Desktop Guide /r/Hackintosh - corpnewt MONITORCONTROL JoniVR & theOneyouseek ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ UPDATES ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ PART LIST • Intel I7 8700 • Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO • Gigabyte AORUS RADEON RX 580 8GB ( connected to monitor with DisplayPort ) • Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB ( 2 x 8GB ) 2666MHz – CMK16GX4M2A2666C16 In this build, both memory modules are installed in memory slots DDR4_A1 and DDR4_B1 • Corsair RM650x 80 Plus Gold Power Supply Unit • Corsair H100i V2 AIO Hydro/Water RGB LED CPU Cooler • Samsung EVO 500GB SSD (2.5) macOS Mojave • Samsung EVO 250 GB SSD (2.5) Windows 10 Pro • NZXT H500 Mid Tower ATX Case • 1st RECOMMENDED WIFI CARD → ABWB BCM943602CS 802.11AC WI-FI With Bluetooth 4.0 PCI-Express (PCI-E) OR • 2nd RECOMMENDED WIFI CARD → WIFI and Bluetooth with BCM94331CD with PCI-e adapter (but will require AirportBrcmFixup.kext for AirDrop.. ) WORKING • Sound • Ethernet Port • WiFi • SSD Trim • USB 3.0 & 2.0 • AirDrop • iCloud • Hardware Acceleration AMD RX 580 / AMD Vega • iMessages • Facetime • Handoff • Netflix on Safari browser • Continuity PREAMBLE - BEFORE YOU START Here detailed, is all the steps towards building a successful and stable Aorus Pro Z390 Hackintosh, if you are a first time Hackintosher, this guide will have you quickly up and running with the Aorus Pro Z390 Hackintosh. To rule out potential problems from the go, only have the disc that you plan to install macOS Mojave connected to the Aorus Pro, disconnect any other Windows / Linux or data drives, external drives from your Aorus Pro. Windows / Linux and data drives can be connected after successful installation of macOS Mojave If you have more than 16 GB of memory, then install macOS Mojave with just 16GB or RAM installed, you can later add any additional memory. Install memory modules in slots DDR4_A1 and DDR4_B1. This build has a recommended Wi-Fi combo PCI-e card installed in slot PCIEX1_3 with its 9 pin USB cable attached to motherboard header F_USB2. ( ensure WiFi card is seated properly in PCIe slot and cable is firmly attached to WiFi card and motherboard header F_USB2 ) If using the Corsair H100i v2 AIO cooler with USB cable connected to motherboard header F_USB1, you will need to enable hot-patch ( explained in guide ) in config.plist for working sleep, wake from sleep will only work by pressing Power Button. Install macOS Mojave on its own physical drive, so do not try and install macOS Mojave onto a free partition on a disc that contains Windows. Remove any Thunderbolt cards, Thunderbolt card can be reinserted after installation. Double check your BIOS settings are the same as this guide. Following are unsupported / problematic • Intel Optane ( if you have this, remove it before installation of macOS Mojave ) • Samsung EVO Plus drives ( ensure you update Plus drive to latest firmware to avoid problems ) • XFX Radeon RX 580 • NVIDIA GTX / RTX not supported in macOS Mojave Q - WILL THIS GUIDE WORK WITH MY NON AORUS Z390 PRO MOTHERBOARD ? A - Possibly, though you may have to create your own USBPorts fix. Q - I notice you have the Aorus Pro Z390 version, will this guide work with Aorus Pro Z390 WiFi version ? A - Possibly, but onboard Intel / Intel CNVi WIFII /Bluetooth will not work with macOS and you will have to disable HS14 for Bluetooth to function properly. Q - Can I use my AMD Vega Card ? A - Yes, AMD Vega card's will work with this guide, but If you plan to use a Sapphire Pulse Vega 56 then please read @AudioGod ==>post regarding the Sapphire Pulse 56. PART 1 - DOWNLOAD • Update BIOS to version F10 • CLOVER • Aorus Pro Z390 EFI.zip • Aorus PRo Z390 EFI - THE OC VERSION.zip <== OC VERSION • ESP MOUNTER PRO v1.9 • macOS MOJAVE • CLOVER CONFIGURATOR • Hackintool OPTIONAL DOWNLOADS • Native Display Brightness with MonitorControl • ThemeEngine • Assets.car // Not really needed but IF no sound on Wake from Sleep then use SSDT-ALC1220 and CodecCommander • ( Resolves Audio Sound on Wake, place in Clover / ACPI / Patched ) • ( Resolves Audio Sound on Wake, place in Clover / Kexts / Other ) PART 2 - BIOS SETTINGS (Version F10 ) Here is a list of the BIOS settings that I use ( Screenshots in spoiler below ) • Enter BIOS → Press F12 → Enter Setup • Save & Exit → Load Optimized Defaults • BIOS → Windows 8/10 Features → Other OS • BIOS → CSM Support → Enabled ( Optionally, can be enabled after macOS is installed, your choice ) • Peripherals → Initial Display Output → PCIe 1 Slot • Peripherals → Trusted Computing → Security Device Support → Disable • Peripherals → Intel(R)Bios Guard → Intel BIOS Guard Support → Disable • Peripherals → USB Configuration → Legacy USB Support → Enabled • Peripherals → USB Configuration → XHCI Hand-off → Enabled • Peripherals → Network Stack Configuration → Network Stack → Disabled • Peripherals → SATA And RST Configuration → SATA Mode Selection → AHCI • Chipset → Vt-d → Enabled ( can be enabled or disabled, your choice!) • Chipset → Internal Graphics → Disabled • Chipset → Audio Controller → Enabled • Chipset → Above 4G Decoding → Disabled • Power → Platform Power Management → Disabled ( Optionally, can be enabled after macOS is installed ) • Power → CEC 2019 Ready → Disabled • Power → ErP → Disabled (can be enabled or disabled, your choice !) • Power → RC6 (Render Standby) → Disabled • MIT → Advanced Memory Settings → Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P) → Disabled ( Optionally, can be enabled after macOS is installed, your choice ) // IF USING CORSAIR H100i V2 AIO CPU WATER COOLER • MIT → Smart Fan 5 Settings → CPU Fan Control mode → PWM • Save & Exit → Save & Exit Setup SCREEN DUMP SPOILERS PART 3 – CREATE A MOJAVE USB FLASH INSTALLER Prepare USB Installer for Mojave ( Video below ) • Insert USB drive • Launch /Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility • Disk Utility → View → Show All Devices • On Left-hand panel → External →(Identify your USB device in left hand panel) • Click and highlight your USB device in the left-hand panel. • Click erase button. • Name: USB • Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled ) • Scheme: GUID Partition Map • Click Erase button. • Place the downloaded MacOS Mojave app into Applications folder. • Open Terminal copy and paste: sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Mojave.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/USB --nointeraction && say Mojave Drive Created • Enter PART 4 – INSTALL CLOVER ON THE MOJAVE USB INSTALLER Make Mojave USB flash drive installer bootable.( Video below ) • Launch Clover application, double click. • Click Continue → Continue → Continue • Click Change Install Location button. • Click Install macOSMojave USB installer → Continue • Click Customise button • Choose: Clover for UEFI booting only Install Clover in the ESP Themes UEFI Drivers • Click Install button • Installation Complete! Video: PART 5 – CUSTOMIZE MOJAVE USB INSTALLER FOR AORUS Z390 PRO Replace Clover EFI folder with PRE-INSTALL Aorus Pro Z390 EFI - RX580.zip Aorus Pro Z390 EFI.zip ( Video below ) • Install ESP Mounter Pro v1.9 • Using ESP Mounter Pro, Mount ESP on disk2s1 ( Your disk name may be different ) • Open mounted EFI partition found on desktop • Copy all the contents from Aorus 390 Pro EFI folder • Replace USB EFI folder with all the contents inside the Aorus 390 Pro EFI folder. PART 6 – INSTALL MAC OS MOJAVE ON INTERNAL DRIVE INSTALL NOTE ENSURE BIOS: Above 4G Decoding is set to Disabled if Above 4G decoding is set to enabled then macOS Mojave install will freeze at 2 mins remaining and will not shut down properly!!!! Please be patient during install, so when install gets to 2 or 3 mins remaining then it may take extra time. Be ready to boot from UEFI USB installer by pressing F12 when install initiates restarts. • INSERT USB INSTALLER INTO THE USB 2.0 PORT Here is a walkthrough of the full process using the macOS Mojave USB Installer on the Aorus Z390 Pro. • Power on PC and press F12• Choose bootable USB drive from boot menu. • Install macOS Mojave to internal solid state or hard drive. When system returns to the Clover boot menu choose: • Boot macOS Install from Macintosh At next restart, press F12 and boot from external UEFI USB device and choose: • Boot macOS Install from Macintosh Proceed with macOS Mojave install macOS Mojave is now installed, but it can only boot at this moment thanks to FakeSMC and Clover on the Mojave USB flash drive installer. PART 7 – MAKE AORUS Z390 PRO INTERNAL DRIVE BOOTABLE Make internal drive bootable ( Video below ) So far, the Aorus Pro can only boot the internal system drive with the aid of the Mojave USB Installer. To boot from the internal system drive without the installer: Download and install Clover with RC Scripts on target volume. Copy the EFI folder from inside Aorus Pro Z390 EFI.zip folder and paste it inside the the System Drive EFI partition. • Remove USB Mojave installer and shut down and restart. Aorus Hackintosh should now be able to boot to macOS Mojave, Done, well almost ! PART 8 – ENABLE IMESSAGES & FACETIME // UPDATE 21st MAY 2019 Possibly Clover Configurator now automatically populates correct values for working iMessages when you select an SMBIOS. After selecting SMBIOS, example iMac19,1 for Aorus Pro with RX580 ( image above ) then go to Apple and ensure you have the "serial number is not valid " message. Done! If you still have problems connecting to iMessage, test and ensure that AirDrop is working, then follow instructions inside spoiler. PART 9 – ENABLE TRIM for Solid State Flash Drives Open Terminal and enter the following command: sudo trimforce enable PART 10 – FRAMEBUFFERS FOR RADEON AMD RX580, VEGA CARD's DEFAULT USB FIX – USB PORTS CONFIGURATION If you have USBC on Computer Chassis / Case, then SS01 and SS02 is mapped to that USB C port ------------ GUIDE FINISHED YOU SHOULD NOW HAVE WORKING AORUS Z390 PRO HACKINTOSH WITH SSDT USB FIX ------------ OPTIONAL: Set Wi-Fi Country Code OPTIONAL: System Information - PCI External USB Storage: Fix "disk did not eject properly" message upon wake from sleep OPTIONAL: Native Display Brightness - with MonitorControl OPTIONAL: Dual Boot macOS Mojave & Windows 10 OPTIONAL: Replace the default "About This Mac" Apple Logo with RED AORUS APPLE OPTIONAL USB PORTS FIX – Create your own SSDT or USBPorts.kext FRAMEBUFFER PATCHING – For working Intel UHD 630 Graphics, working HDMI Port, working HDMI Audio on Aorus Z390 Pro NOT REQUIRED AS GUIDE IS USING SMBIOS FOR IMAC PRO 1,1 FINAL CUT PRO – Configuration for AMD RX5xx NOT REQUIRED AS GUIDE IS USING SMBIOS FOR IMAC PRO 1,1 AORUS PRO Z390 WIFI version with Intel CNVi – Disable Bluetooth on HS14 Resolve bluetooth issue reported by @eSaF CLOVER – Updating / Upgrade Clover boot loader (If hack is stable, don't update unless you have problems) SLEEP – Sleep and Automatic Sleep SLEEP – Resolving Instant Wake ( Corsair H100i v2 AIO ) WIFI – Clover Hotpatch PXSX to ARPT RECOMMENDED READING – Excellent Hackintosh Vanilla guide created by CorpNewt with in depth tutorial on Clover. https://hackintosh.gitbook.io/-r-hackintosh-vanilla-desktop-guide/config.plist-per-hardware/coffee-lake EFI NON DSDT SMBIOS iMac Pro 1,1 Clover v2.5k r5018 Aorus Pro Z390 EFI - RX580.zip OR Aorus Pro Z390 EFI - Vega-56.zip EFI FOR SMBIOS iMac 19,1 for use with GPU & IGPU enabled in BIOS PRE-INSTALL Aorus Pro Z390 EFI - RX580.zip POST-INSTALL Aorus Pro Z390 EFI - RX580.zip ( Has OsxAptioFix2Drv-free2000.efi ==> recommended reading before use ) EFI FOR INTEL UHD 630 SMBIOS iMAC 18,1 Aorus Pro Z390 EFI - Intel UHD630.zip( Has OsxAptioFix2Drv-free2000.efi ==> recommended reading before use )
  11. Hello Friends, how are ya? Could you help me with a problem? I followed some guides like: https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic ... coffeelake -dsdt / and the installation of high Sierra 10.13.6 (17G8030) and nvidia webdrivers (correspondent to OS version) went smoothly, the problem starts when I try to boot the GPU. Hardware: MOBO: Aorus B360M gaming 3 (rev.1) CPU: i5 8400 GPU: GTX 1060 OC Galax redblack BIOS: Fast boot - disabled windows 8/10 features - other os lan pxe - disabled storage boot option - UEFI other pci devices - UEFI Initial display output - PCie 1 slot Intel's Platform Trust Technology (PTT) - disabled sata mode selection - AHCI XHCI hand off - enabled VT-d - disabled internal graphics - auto The problem is: I can log into the system normally without using my nvidia GPU but when I boot the system with the flags for webdrivers to work I fall into the login screen but it keeps flashing, I can see the mouse and I can move it but the screen flashes and the following error appears when the screen goes "black": IOConsoleUsers: gIOScreenLockState 3, hs 0, bs 0, now 0, sm 0x0. I searched for this error on the internet and tried to solve but to no avail so far. If someone can help me I would be extremely grateful! thanks in advance! Clover file attached. CLOVER.zip
  12. I'm trying to install High Sierra 10.13.3 on an ASUS N552VW laptop, and I get stuck after this message: "could not recover SATA HDD after 5 attempts, terminating" And some other warnings afterwards. Specs: CPU: Intel Skylake 6700HQ 2.6GHz RAM: 16GB DDR4 2TB HDD + 128GB SSD GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530 + Nvidia GTX960m I'm installing using a 16GB USB3 flash drive on one of HDD volumes (UEFI Mode) I uploaded the verbose log and clover config.plist config-new.plist
  13. hi folks! i'm just checking for opinions here on a Clover based install of High Sierra. currently i can't boot directly from the internal drive on my hackbook, an ASUS ROG GL502-VS laptop (with the replaced WiFi card), though i can boot from the USB bootloader/installer i installed 10.13.6 fine using a prepared vanilla installer on HFS+ (not APFS), but my configuration is somewhat unusual. i have two drives. the first SSD has the Windows system, the second has two partitions with the 2nd partition holding the macOS system. when i ran Clover installer i could not use the UEFI option to copy to the EFI partition because it couldn't find one on that drive. so it installed the EFI folder on the root of the macOS partition instead. however, after a bit of tinkering around, i found out that there is an existing EFI partition on the primary drive called SYSTEM. it has a EFI folder and underneath that is a Windows folder, a Boot folder, and one called APPLE. i can mount this partition with Clover Configurator and copy files to it, but i don't know if this is a good or risky solution. i was thinking i would manually copy the CLOVER folder and the uefi64.boot file to this partition , making sure not to overwrite anything existing. using the UEFI setup, i can create a boot path from the SYSTEM partition to the Clover boot file, but i'm just curious if this is a useful solution or not, and i don't want to ruin the existing Windows 10 installation for sure. any advice appreciated!
  14. Hi all guys I need your help and I hope you can help me I took the road to install High Sierra on my new build and now I have some doubt / difficulty I do not know how to solve. My configuration: 8700K Asrock Z370 Professional Gaming i7 AMD RX580 Nitro+ 8GB First I created the usb pendrive and I used Clover with the following configurations: Bootflag: dart=0 -v Kext: Bios Setting: VT-d = Disabled Share Memory = 128MB IGPU Multi-Monitor = Enabled XHCI Hand-off = Enabled SMBIOS: iMac18,3 So far no problem, it started successfully, I initialized the hdd in APFS and I ran the installation. Once finished, it started and I made the first configuration successfully. At this point I configured Clover the same way as the installation: Bootflag: dart=0 disablegfxfirmware shikigva=4 -rad4200 darkwake=8 Devices: Graphics: Kernel and Kext Patches: SMBIOS: iMac18,3 Kext: I reboot and start without problems, but I know there is some problem to solve ... for example, the video card seems to recognize it but if I run a benchmark with "Novabench" I noticed that the GPU is recognized as 1GB: With "WhateverGreen.kext" and "RadeonDeInit=Disabled": || || || I tried to delete "WhateverGreen.kext" and "RadeonDeInit=Enabled" and I recognize the card differently but the same problem presents itself: || || || Why is it recognized by 1GB instead of 8GB? While on System Profiler is recognized by 8GB .... I'm doing something wrong? I tried to enable also "Hardware Encoding & HEVC Support" but I noticed a detail that I do not know if it's right or not (Hardware Info "MacX Video Converter Pro"): Without "WhateverGreen.kext" and "RadeonDeInit=Enabled": With "WhateverGreen.kext" and "RadeonDeInit=Disabled": [COMING SOON SCREENSHOT] Is it normal that this occurs? Which one is correct? I'm going completely in confusion I'm trying to figure out if I need to make any other changes to the system, if I add some other patches to make it work properly but I do not know where to check. I'm trying to configure the DSDT but DSDT Editor and MaciASL do not work, they do not open the DSDT.aml file generated by AIDA64. Do you know how to give me a hand? I'm banging my head for 2 days I thank you in advance for the help and I apologize for my english I hope I was clear
  15. neotec00

    Acer Aspire V3-772G

    So I tried to install macOS on my acer using a appstore version of Sierra, now the booting and also the installing went all fine, but I have only 7mb vram, the keyboard/touchpad wasn't working, no sound, ofc no WIFI and not even the ethernet was available. Now i know that is is fairly standard, but i cant get even one of those things to work. I'm not used to macOS not even speaking of hackintosh soooo yea i could use some help On the other hand, im not a total computer noob, so given a little instruction i should be able to fix this, i hope. Now to the specs, i have a hw report down in the attachments, you will see that i have two hard drives, a 1TB HDD as well as a 500GB SSD, i want to install Sierra on the 1TB HDD as i'm not using it at the moment. I attached the ACPI tables edit: i also have a sierra VM under windows 10 if that is needed edit 2: i donated to iatkos about 24h ago, so i'll get that in at least 24h Acer Aspire V3-772g.HTM ACPI origin.rar
  16. ThatsMatt

    HP Pavilion 15-ak112nl

    Salve, sono nuovo nel forum e mi serviva una mano nell'installazione dell' ultima versione di MacOs sul mio notebook HP Pavilion 15-ak112nl. Su questo sito potete trovare tutte le specifiche tecniche del portatile in questione:https://support.hp.com/it-it/document/c05055031. Grazie in Anticipo a chi mi risponderà
  17. Technology & more

    macOS Mojave On Surface Pro 1

    Can Someone make a guide to install macOS Mojave on the Surface Pro 1?
  18. I've just got my hack. to were I'm happy with it. its been a long road. and up to this point was always evolving. and from the software side. id Like to thank EVERYONE that as given there time help and support in my Hackintosh adventure. the hardware side. as at times been a bit of a challenge (learning to bent stainless tubing) I got the powder coating done by a local company Please comment. Had to change the tubing around Best regards Baldy
  19. Hi guys, this thread is to show you a new and open source app, created by me, that I called TINU: The name means: TINU Is Not #####, the U refers to a popular software that is used to create macOS hackintosh installers (that for good reasons is banned on this forum), but the aim of the name is to explain that this app is a totally different thing from that software and works in a totally different way. This app basically is a graphical interface for the createinstallmedia executable that is inside the macOS and Mac OS X installer apps, it is capable to create a bootable installer completely vanilla like what you do using the command line method, and also this method is recommended by apple itself. In addition to this, this app provvides to you simplicity and flexybility, and lets you to avoid most of the steps needed with every other app. TINU allows you to create easily a bootable macOS installer without messing around with command line stuff and without using disk utility, all you need to do is use the app and then install clover on the usb drive once TINU has finished or leave it as is if you want to use it on a real Mac. Features: - Simple-to-use UI that allows you to easily start the bootable macOS installer creation process. - It can work with every macOS installer app that has the createinstallmedia executable inside its resources folder (including also beta and newly released installers). - You can use any erasable volume that is at least 7 GB of size (if the volume's drive is not in GUID format, TINU will re-format it accordingly). - Can work with the Mac OS recovery system, so you can create a bootable macOS installer from the macOS installer itself or from the macOS recovery partition, and you can use TINU to install macOS, too. - 100% clean: The bootable macOS installers created with this tool are vanilla, just as if you created them using the command line "createinstallmedia" method in Terminal. - Open Source: You can verify what this program does on your computer and you can create your own version by downloading and playing with the source code. - Does not require any special preparations. Just open the program, make sure you have a USB drive plugged in and have a macOS installer app on your disk. - No need to use Disk Utility. TINU can format your drive or partition for you. - Integrated EFI partition mounter tool. - Uses recent, modern, APIs and SDKs and the Swift 3 language. - Transparent graphics style available (type alt-S or choose from the menu bar: View -> Use transparent style). - Works using the latest versions of macOS and will also support newer Mac installers out of the box without requiring an update. - Offers advanced features to customize your bootable macOS installer. Features that are planned for future versions: - Install and configure [Clover](https://sourceforge.net/projects/cloverefiboot/). - Install kexts into Clover's kexts folder. - Clover drivers customization - Use custom DSDT in Clover - Integrated pre-made Clover config templates database from a remote and open repository. - Support for other languages, at least Italian. # Requirements: - A computer that runs Mac OS X Yosemite or a more recent version (Mac OS X El Capitan is required to use TINU in a macOS recovery or installer). - A drive or a free partition (on a drive which already supports GUID) of least 7 GB that you want to turn into a macOS/Mac OS X installer. - A copy of a macOS/Mac OS X installer app (Maveriks or newer versions are supported) in the /Applications folder or in the root of any storage drive on your machine (excepted the drive or volume you want to turn into your macOS install media). Download: https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/TINU/releases Frequently asked questions: https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/TINU/wiki/FAQs Useful links: Thread (english) on insanelymac.com: - http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/326959-tinu-the-macos-installer-creator-app-mac-app/ Thread (italian) on insanelymac.com: - https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/333261-tinu-app-per-creare-chiavette-di-installazione-di-macos-thread-in-italiano/ Thread (english-german) on hackintosh-forum.de: - https://www.hackintosh-forum.de/index.php/Thread/33630-TINU/ Post on Reddit: - https://www.reddit.com/r/hackintosh/comments/a1h61d/tinu_vanilla_bootable_macos_installer_creation/ Facebook hackintosh help and beta testing (Italian only): - https://www.facebook.com/groups/Italia.hackintosh/?fref=ts Contact me (project creator): - Insanelymac.com profile: http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/user/1390153-itztravelintime/ - email: piecaruso97@gmail.com Note that: - This software is under GNU GPL v3 license so any new branch/mod/third party release must be open source and under the same license - I (project creator) assume no responsibility for any use of this app and this source code, and also for any kind of hardware and software damage to any computer and any device or peripheral that may come from this app or source code during it's use and outside it's usage - I (project creator) do not guarantee support to you, this is only an open source project, not a product released by a company! - This project is born only for educational and demonstrative purposes, it's not intended to be used for commercial purposes and it will never be, don't use source code from this project to create apps or software for that aim. - This is a no-profit project, born only to let people to create macOS install medias in a more simple way and also to learn how to create this kind of apps. Credits: - Apple for macos and installer apps and scripts - People that helped me a lot: Francesco Perchiazzi, Nicola Tomarelli, Roberto Sciortino, Raffaele Sonnessa, Ermanno Nicoletti, Tommaso Dimatore, Michele Vitiello Bonaventura, Massimiliano Faralli, Davide Dessì, Giorgio Dall'Aglio, Peter Paul Chato. - Special thanks to Italian Hackintosh group!! for help (https://www.facebook.com/groups/Italia.hackintosh/?fref=ts) - Thomas Tempelmann for help with the UI - Pietro Caruso (ITzTravelInTime) for creating, maintaing and developing this project
  20. Hi, my setup worked fine until today: i7 4770k with 970 GTX. I use Sierra 10.12.5 and latest nvidia web-drivers 378.05.05.15f01 and EmuVariableUefi-64 in latest Clover (4097). As I said, everything worked fine since the release of those drivers but today, out of nowhere, my screen is blinking black about every second or so I thought the GPU was experiencing a problem so I reinstalled the drivers, same problem. I then booted into software mode and the problem disappears. Everything seems to indicate a problem with the GPU but when I boot into windows 10, the GPU works fine... Just yesterday, my hackintosh was working fine. Tried Lilu.kext and nvidiagraphicsfixup.kext but nothing's changed. Anyone had the same experience? A clue? EDIT: SOLVED! Solution: Use another port from the GPU
  21. Theapc06

    HP Elite 8300 SFF I3 3220

    Hi I Just Bought A Hp Elite 8300 I3 3200 Desktop Computer And I Was Wondering If The Intel HD Graphics Were Going To Be Supported When I iNSTALL Mojave Or High Sierra Thanks -ALEX PS: What Is The Better OS To Go For On This Desktop PC : MacOS High Sierra -10.13 Or MacOS Mojave -10.14 Thanks Again -Alex
  22. Hello Guys! I'm trying to upgrade my Mackintosh by installing Mojave on my Previous build of HP Z400 running perfectly with Sierra. I'm stuck at this error saying "macOS could not be installed on your computer" I've added the same kexts as before in my previous builds and I'm not sure why its also not showing my drives in Disk Utility. I'm thinking the error could be of because this, please let me know If I'm wrong. I'm attacking the screenshots please see these; also I'm adding my plist file its been setup using enoch bootloader. I was using kexts "AHCIPortInjector.kext" & "IOAHCIBlockStorageInjector.kext" in my previous builds. But not sure if its working or not? as my usb is working either using these or without. Using SmBIOS of Mac Pro 5.1 and its working fine in previous builds. Please help me figuring this issue and suggest the solution for this error? I want to get this figured as soon as possible. Many thanks in advance!
  23. Hi everybody, I'm new here and French. I success to hack my Asus X751LJ and pass it to High Sierra 10.13.6, not easily, and everything works except the keyboard and the touchpad. I tried VoodooPS2Controller, ApplePS2SmartTouchpad, even VoodooI2C, but nothing works... Could someone help me? Is there a DSDT problem? Witch kext should I use? I post my ACPI and Kexts folders and my IOReg. Please... Help me. I'm desperate... MacBook Pro de Candrahm.ioreg Archive.zip
  24. gianni74

    Sierra su Asus N551JW laptop

    Salve a tutti, posseggo il laptop di Asus modello N551JW di un paio di anni fa. Grazie a varie guide e post sia qui che altrove sono riuscito a installare il MAC OS X 10.12.6 Sierra. Cosa sono riuscito a far funzionare: Audio utilizzato AppleALC 668 Bluethoot sto utilizzando un dongle esterno via USB Porte USB3 funzionanti IntelGraphics integrata funzionante come HD5200 Scheda Ethernet Standby funziona perfettamente iMessage & account Apple Store Masterizzatore DVD lo riconosce Cosa non funziona: WI-FI (e per questo è necessaria sostituzione hardware con una compatibile) Tastiera non riconosciuta, ma funzionante a metà: tasti per audio funzionanti con Fn+F10(muto)+F11(abbassare)+F12(aumentare), altri tasti no come luminosità e retroilluminazione della tastiera Batteria, riconosce solo se collegato all'alimentazione elettrica e riporta lo status della batteria fisso allo 0%, ho provato a staccare l'alimentazione e pur rimanendo a 0% il PC non va in errore né va in stop, dovrei effettuare un patch al DSDT, ma non so come si fa. Lettore di schede SD Fotocamera Qualcuno può aiutarmi a sistemare, possibilmente, ciò che non funziona? Grazie.
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