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  1. Now have a Olarila app, just download app and clover folder for your Chipset! https://olarila.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=81&t=6771 First... If you need DSDT edits... -Post your full Clover folder with original tables in Origin folder(Extract with F4 in Clover boot screen) -Run it, post files generated in your desktop RunMe.app Installation --Create a bootable copy of macOS Sierra Check out the link http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/files/file/559-flash-drive-maker/ --Create a bootable copy of macOS HighSierra Check out the link http://diskmakerx.com/ --Install Clover in USB stick https://sourceforge.net/projects/cloverefiboot/files/Installer/ --Replace with my Clover folder CLOVER.zip --Install Sierra/High Sierra and boot into system! Post Installation --Install Clover in HDD/SSD and replace with my folder CLOVER.zip --Reboot and activate video! -Nvidia WebDriver Sierra http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/312525-nvidia-web-driver-updates-for-macos-sierra-update-07212017/ -Nvidia WebDriver High Sierra http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/324195-nvidia-web-driver-updates-for-macos-high-sierra-update-10162017/ -Cuda http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/302795-cuda-90214-is-out-update-10162017/ -DSDT My DSDT DSDT.GA H97M-DS3P MaLd0n.zip -Patches -FIX ERRORS AND WARNINGS -HPET -SATA -DMAC -SLPB -DARWIN -LPC -XHCI -HDEF -RTC -IRQs -SBUS -MIKEY -BUS1 -MCHC -ALS0 -SHUTDOWN -LAN -EC -PNLF -HDMI -FakeSMC https://bitbucket.org/RehabMan/os-x-fakesmc-kozlek -Audio https://github.com/vit9696/AppleALC -LAN https://github.com/Mieze/IntelMausiEthernet -Credits and thanks to the old and new people in the community who developed patches, kexts and bootloaders! Slice, Kabyl, usr-sse2, jadran, Blackosx, dmazar, STLVNUB, pcj, apianti, JrCs, pene, FrodoKenny, skoczy, ycr.ru, Oscar09, xsmile, SoThOr, RehabMan, Download-Fritz, Zenit432, cecekpawon, Intel, Apple, Oracle, Chameleon Team, crazybirdy, Mieze, Mirone, Oldnapalm, netkas, Elconiglio, artut-pt, ErmaC, Pavo, Toleda, Master Chief and family, bcc9, The King, PMheart, Sherlocks, Micky1979, vit9696, vandroiy2013, Voodoo Team, Pike R. Alpha, lvs1974, Austere.J, CVad and many, many, many others! We're all here to have fun and learn from each other! ENJOY!
  2. I wanted to push watercooling to the most. Silent. Level. possible. While gaming and also for working. Quite a challenge and a lot to learn. Thoughts on water-cooling: It always depends on the use-case if water-cooling is more silent than air-cooling. My personal experience: Air-cooling is more silent in idle load scenarios (when you just do some easy tasks like browsing or office) Water-cooling is more silent for constant high load (e.g. when you are gaming/working for long times) Tricks to get the water-cooling as silent as possible: Configure the BIOS to turn off the radiator-fans in Idle load scenarios. That leaves only the pump running. Undervolt the pump (to e.g. constant 7V). This works best, if you can plug the pump into a fan or pump header and assign a constant (lower that 100%) speed to it in the BIOS. If your BIOS does not allow that, you could use a resistor-adaptor to slow it down. This project started before my 26 PowerMac G5 Case Modding Project
  3. Hi, thereMy desktop hackintosh cannot enter the Sleep Mode.I mean it can enter the sleep mode for a few seconds and it will automatically wake up itself.How can I fix this issue.Thanks for your help. My BIOS / APM capture: My system preference / Energy Saver capture:
  4. ITzTravelInTime

    Gruppo telegram "hackintosh italia"

    Ciao ragazzi, volevo presentarvi il nostro nuovo gruppo telegram (fatta da me e qualche amico) che condividiamo qui grazie all'autorizzazione gentilmente offertaci dallo staff. Questo gruppo è fatto per potersi aiutare a vicenda su hackintosh usando solo ed esclusivamente il metodo VANILLA, come dal tronde si fa qui su insanely, lo scopo è quello di fornire aiuto rapido per chi ha problemi ad installare mac sul proprio pc. il gruppo lo trovate qui: https://t.me/hackintoshalia Nota: non siamo affiliati e non siamo un gruppo ufficiale di insanelymac, siamo un gruppo a parte, ma grandi fan di questa commiunity e questo forum, di cui condividiamo i principi e le idee.
  5. Hey all. I'm trying to install macOS Sierra on a partition of my main PC (specs below), and I keep running into the same problem. Once I get past the Apple logo and loading bar, it will stick. Whether that's while choosing a language or even before the installer shows up. Sometimes I get to the language picker, and when I pick the language and click the next arrow, the words will stop and the button will become greyed out. I can still move my mouse and select languages but nothing else. Or I don't even get to that. Sometimes it just displays the background of the installer with a cursor that I can move. I've waited for ages and nothing happens. Also, sometimes it'll reboot and when it does in verbose mode, it reboots too quickly to see the panic. Sorry I'm very new to hackintoshes. Hayden Specs: Intel Core i5-6400 Intel HD Graphics 530 8GB DDR3 RAM The computer is a prebuild HP Pavilion 550-251na Desktop.
  6. System Info: https://docs.google.com/document/d/19HOzEFDKS64fI-JkpOQDayzA1RVQLutf_geucNMtiLQ/edit?usp=sharing Let's say: I'm trying to create a Bootable Hackintosh USB for Mac OS High Sierra [Latest Stable Version], and I'm using a Virtual Machine [with Mac OS High Sierra] on my Windows 10. Specific Questions: What BIOS Settings should I change for - LENOVO Motherboard BIOS? What should I keep in mind when using a Virtual Machine [MacOS] for the Bootable USB Creation Process? Should I use Clover EFI Bootloader or Clover Configurator, or Both? What settings should I change change in those? Does it matter which version(s) of Clover Sofwares I use? Will they support USB Creation for ALL versions of MAC Operating Systems? [Or do they only support some versions of Mac OS?] Thanks in Advance for your help!
  7. Note: I'm about to update this guide & installation pack to v2.0. This will take a few days, so stay tuned. For the Vietnamese guide, please visit HERE. About the supported models Perhaps you don't know, but in my old (and now deprecated) guide posted at OSX.VN, I received a lot of questions like "Is this guide applicable to my ABC laptop?" or "Can you help me installing OS X on XYZ laptop?". For me I consider those questions are annoying, as I think they should know the fact that a guide for one model cannot be applied in the same way to another model; it should be adapted. So here in my new guide, I have to state that this guide is designed for ASUS K501LX, and can be applied in a very similar way to K501LB but not for other laptops. Therefore users with other models should only take this guide as reference only. Here below is my table of support degree: Before posting your question, you should check whether your model is supported in this table, and should include the hardware specification in your question's content or signature. I won't answer any question in the form of "Is this guide applicable to my ABC laptop?" (you should answer it yourself). Any 'asking for help' questions whose hardware specification is not included in the content or in signature will also be ignored. I hope you will agree and follow the above advices, so that the topic will be kept from unrelated and meaningless questions. Actually I consider myself to be open to questions and feedbacks, it's just that any question posted here should be related to the topic IMO. Contents References Manual update sources Acknowledgement I. Hardware specification and current working status II. Preinstallation III. Installation IV. Postinstallation V. Conclusion A-1. Postinstall optimization A-2. How to patch DSDT For ASUS K501LX A-3. How to generate proper serials for use in SMBIOS A-4. Information about patching AppleHDA FAQ References This guide, as well as my actual installation progress, are referred to the following sources (maybe I forgot to list some of the sources, but these are the main ones): Note: Here I will not include the link to the sources but only titles and authors, as some of the sources may violate our forum rules. Manual update sources The latest version of the kexts and some of the tools used in this guide can be found here, if you want to update them by yourself instead of waiting for my updates: Acknowledgement The work of getting El Capitan run smoothly on my laptop with nearly all the hardware recognized could not be done without the help and contributions of many people. Here in this guide, I would like to thank: The authors of the guides and posts that I referred to. Those useful documents made the OS X installation process become easier and helped me to optimize OS X after install. The authors of Clover Bootloader and all the kexts and tools used in this guide. A lot of works have been made to the development of these kexts and tools, and the benefits that they bring are undeniable. Sơn Huỳnh for answering some of my questions during the error-fixing progress after installation. RehabMan for helping me solve the black screen issue after wake and suggesting the methods to deal with some problems such as disabling discrete graphics card and USB 3.0 on El Capitan. His collection of tiny SSDT samples also helped me to implement the 'hotpatch' method in this guide. Mirone for his various AppleHDA patch samples for Realtek ALC233 codec, which helped me to correctly patch AppleHDA for my codec. and the others that I forgot to mention.
  8. Hello everybody, I’ve got a lot of request and complains from a lot of hackintosh users that they can’t get their iMessage working. So I decided to make a 100% working a STEP by STEP tutorial under 4 minutes HOW TO GET IMESSAGE AND OTHER ICLOUD SERVICE WORKING ON ANY HACKINTOSH. Enjoy it.
  9. My latest successful HACKINTOSH build using Intel Core i7-4770 into hardly modded Apple PowerMac G4 case running latest MacOS High Sierra 10.13.6. Geekbench and Cinebench Scores included.Video of this build with scores is here: Components used:- Intel Core i7-4770- Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H-A motherboard- 16GB Kingston HyperX 1600 MHz- 450W power supply - MSI Nvidia GeForce GT 1030 2GH OC- Arctic Cooler 11 LP CPU cooler - Installation & Review in this build:
  10. Hi guys, this thread is to show you a new and open source app, created by me, that I called TINU: The name means: TINU Is Not #####, the U refers to a popular software that is used to create Mac OS hackintosh installers (that for good reasons is banned on this forum), but the aim of the name is to explain that this app is a totally different thing from that software and works in a totally different way. This app basically is a graphical interface for the createinstallmedia executable that is inside the Mac OS installer apps, it is capable to create a Mac OS installer on a drive completely vanilla like what you do using the command line method, and also this method is recommended by apple itself. In addition to this, this app provvides also to you some customization features and a better management of the hall macOS isntall media creation process Allows you to create easily a macOS install media without messing around with command line stuff and without using disk utility, all you need to do is use the app and then install clover on the usb drive once TINU has finished or leave it as is you want to use it on a Mac. Features: - Simple to use UI that allows you to easily start the macOS install media creation process - It can work with every Mac OS installer app that has the createinstallmedia executable inside of it's resources folder (including also beta and newly released installers) - You can use any drive or partition you want that can be erased and is at least 7 GB of size - Works on Mac OS recovery, so you can create a macOS install media from a bootable macOS installer or from the macOs recovery, and you can use TINU to install macOS too. - All vanilla, the macOS install medias created with this tool are 100% vanilla, just like you created them using the command line "createinstallmedia" method in the terminal, with also some extra optiona features - Open source, you will know what this program does on your computer and also you can create your own version by downloading and playing with the source code - Does not requires to do anything of special first, just open the program - No need to go in disk utility first, TINU can format your drive for you - Uses recent and more modern APIs and SDKs and Swift 3 language - Transparent graphics style available (use alt + s on the keyboard or View->Use transparent style) - Works using the latest versions of macOS and will also support newer Mac installers out of the box without needing for an update - Advanced section, to customize your macOS install media - Installer customization: Kernelcache/prelinkedknerel and boot files replacement (a feature that can be handy while dealing with old Macs or with beta installers when you need to mod or change the boot files some times) - Clover EFI folder installer Features that are planned for some future versions: - Integrated EFI partition mounter tool (TINU can already mount EFI partitions from version 2.0, but a dedicated section which allows to mount every EFI partition in the system will be added) - Install clover and configure clover - Install kexts inside the kexts folder of clover - Clover drivers customization - Use custom dsdt in clover - integrated pre-made clover config templates database from a remote and open repository - Support for other languages, at least Italian Rquirements: - A computer that runs Mac OS X Yosemite or a more recent version (Mac OS X El Capitan is required to use TINU in a macOS recovery or installer) - A drive or a free partition of at least 7 GB that you want to turn into a macOS/Mac OS X installer - A copy of a macOS/Mac OS X installer app (Maveriks or newer versions are supported) in the /Applications folder or in the root of any storage device in your machine (excepted the drive or volume you want to turn into your macOS install media) Note that this app is under the GNU GPL v3 license so any reuse of the source code must follow the license's terms Latest stable TINU release: Download the app: https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/TINU/releases View the source code: https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/TINU Frequently asked questions about TINU: https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/TINU/wiki/FAQs NOTE: if you have problems with your USB installer of 10.13.4 or newer version not being detected by clover you have to use the latest clover and if it still does not detectets your usb installer you have to remove the invivible file called .IAPhysicalMedia located into the root of the usb installer. This issue is caused by a changement in the apple's createinstallmedia, don't blame TINU for that, TINU does only uses the installer creation method from apple, which has been changed by appleitself, causing this problem for hackintosh users some times, this issue should be resolved in the latest versions of clover which will no longer require that you do changements to let your usb dive to be detected, a setting to do this fix automatically in tinu is also present TINU in the adavnced settings, starting from the version 2.0 of the app. I leave also some screenshots as well
  11. Dell Precision T7610 Workstation Hackintosh GUIDE (Work in Progress) Introduction: Hi Everyone, This Workstation used to be a Beast with Dual CPUs and tons of RAM, I Know it is now normal to get that much cores in a Desktop but it is still a very decent machine for me (As a Programmer), and I thought it would be a good idea to Install MacOS as the Daily Driver Rather than Linux and It turns out to be a very Great Experience (with Some Challenges ). Specs: CPU: 2x Xeon E5-2680 v2 2.8GHz Ten Core Processors RAM: 128 GB 1333 MHz DDR3 ECC Memory GPU: ATI Radeon HD 4870 Chipset: Intel C602 Audio: Realtek ALC269Q High Definition Audio SAS Drive Controllers (RAID): LSI 2308 SATA/SAS 6Gb/s controller with host based RAID 0, 1, 10 (4 Network Controller 1: Intel 82579 Gigabit Ethernet controller with Remote Wake UP, PXE and Jumbo frames support Network Controller 2: Intel Ethernet Controller I210 NEC USB3.0 xHCI Controller: Renesas Electronics uPD720201 & uPD720202 Working: Both "Xeon E5-2680 v2" and all cores with Power Management and P-States (using VoodooTSCSync & ssdtPRGen.sh) ATI Radeon HD 4870 (Vanilla) Realtek ALC269Q (using VoodooHDA till Now) LSI 2308 SAS (using AstekFusion2) Intel 82579 Network Controller (Vanilla) Intel I210 Network Controller (IntelMausiEthernet) USB 2.0 Not Working: NEC USB3.0 xHCI Controller (Renesas Electronics uPD720201 & uPD720202) Sleep https://github.com/yehia2amer/Dell-Precision-T7610-Workstation-Hackintosh-Guide
  12. Hey guys I'm new here and hoping someone can help... I just successfully built my first hackintosh and at this point there is only the USB 3.0 problem that is keeping my new build from being fully (or as near as I need it) functional. Well actually it would be kinda nice to get onboard audio working, but that is less important. I used the infamous automated tools from a well known website to get to where I am now. I have read a little, but I still have no idea how to build DSDT or SSDT or what the difference/relationship between them is. I built a Gigabte Z370 Gaming 7 (F7 firmware) with I7-8700k and GTX 1080. At present I cannot seem to connect external storage to any of the USB 3.0 ports. I'm hoping there's a smart and generous soul out there who can help me out. Thanks
  13. Good afternoon. I would like to ask about my iron. Will Mac OS X go to it? amd athlon(tm) ii x2 245 Nvidia GeForce GT 630 If so, can you give a link to the iso file? Thx ♥
  14. Since when I updated to 10.13.6 (and possibly .5 since i don't use usbs that often) my usb 3.0 drives don't work on usb 3.0 ports or hubs and work only if inserted slowly and get recognized as usb 2.0s in that case (480mb/s in sysinfo) and if i try to put my hackintosh to sleep the screen turns black for a second and then it takes me to the login screen instead of going to sleep, this usb issue happened to me on 10.13.2/3 too, is there a way to fix it ? Thank you CLOVER not working usb 3.0s+ sleep.zip
  15. Ciao a tutti! Ho intenzione di acquistare i componenti necessari per assemblare un hackintosh. Chiedo il vostro aiuto, perchè è la prima volta che assemblo una macchina del genere e quindi è per me un campo poco conosciuto. Il computer mi serve esclusivamente per fare musica; userò software tipo Logic a Mainstage interfacciato con una scheda audio Motu o simile. Quindi la macchina deve essere molto silenziosa, con CPU veloce e molta RAM. La scheda video non è importante, ma deve essere in grado di pilotare un monitor Dell da 27" 2560x1440. Ho seguito alcune indicazioni reperite in rete e mi sono consultato con qualche altra persona che ne sa più di me e alla fine è venuta fuori una configurazione del genere: Case Cooler master Silencio 550 Alimentatore Be Quiet! 500W System Power 7 80+ Silver MB Gigabyte H97-D3H CPU Intel Xeon E3-1231v3 (oppure MB GA-Z97X-UD5H e CPU Intel Core i7-4790) Dissipatore CPU Cooler master RR-T4-18PK-R1 RAM 16 GB Kingston HX316C10FBK2/16 DDR3 1600 (oppure 32 GB) Scheda video 1 GB EVGA GT740 1GB 01G-P4-3742-KR (oppure 4 GB) SSD Samsung EVO 250GB HD Western Digital WD30PURX 5400rpm 64MB Purple (oppure Seagate 3TB ST3000DM001) S. wireless TP-Link TL-WDN4800 Blue-ray LG BH16NS40 bulk Mouse Apple Magic Mouse wireless Tastiera Apple MB110 cord o Logitech K750 wireless Per essere più sicuro, farei assemblare il computer dal sito dove compro i componenti e poi sarà compito mio installare il S.O., driver, etc. Sono ben accetti tutti i consigli che vorrete darmi; l'importante è che i componenti siano compatibili al 100% con il sistema operativo. Grazie fin d'ora per l'aiuto Francesco
  16. So, I am officially crazy... I bought 26 Powermacs (G5) And I modded them ALL They are now ready for ATX and mATX Mainboards… But why 26? Did I mention I was crazy?! (And they were only sold together…) I modded G5 Cases before – They kind of became my passion. This time I wanted everything to be perfect: - Keep as much of the original design as possible - Cut as less as possible - Since it is impossible to find a G5 Case without dents and scratches, I wanted to paint them, freshly. I am done now and it is time to share my experiences: It was a rough 6 months from start to finish. The project kept me busy during all of the winter. I worked every weekend on it, till late. I need to apologize… …to my family for occupying their workshop, guest rooms and garages …to my friends for neglecting them during the last months …to the dogs and the cat for waking them up from their afternoon nap every now and then (because of the metalwork-noise). I hope to be able and show everybody that it was worth it - And that someone out there is appreciating the work, as well. Back me up, guys - Spread the love :-) I believe in Apples high quality and the unique design of Sir Jony Ive My mods include a preinstalled power supply (and even watercooling on some) Countless hours of work and high-quality components & tools were used Of course, you can come and have a look if you are near the South of Germany (or the North of Switzerland). Finished Builds: I do not have the money to equip all cases with CPU, RAM and SSDs right now. But it would be so much fun to do it, now that all the hard work is done. I will definitively equip machines later and build completely custom machines I already equipped two of the shown modded cases with complete hardware. One was for a music-studio. One for my brother. Threads for the finished build projects will be linked here later: Workstation & Gaming-Beast for my brother: - ATX- X99-Mainbaord - 8-Core Intel XEON E5-1660 v3 (Overclocked to 4 GHz - all-core) - 64GB ECC-RAM (Registered DIMMs) with dual Copper heatsinks & Heatpipes - 3x1TB SSD RAID5 - Two 1080Ti in SLI (two flexible SLI Bridges were later installed) Ryzentosh (For music production studio): o mATX Mainboard o Ryzen 1700X o biggest cooler on the market (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro) o 32GB RAM (ECC Unregistered DIMMs) with Aluminium heatsinks o 3x1TB SSD RAID5 A finished (painted) case from the outside. The Apple logo is gone after painting… For the better, I think! The rear of a finished build Preliminaries: All the planning that goes into modding one case actually affected 26 cases. It had to be perfect. That’s why I planned every step and every purchase of parts, meticulously. Then I applied every individual operation to all cases, one after another. This raised the quality of all cases. The metalwork (Filing, sanding, equalizing, gluing and painting) took a very long time. I don’t even know how many hours it took per case because I always did one individual operation to all cases (e.g. filing or cutting) and then started the next task. It probably took a couple of days per G5. Then I broke my shoulder in May 2017 (doing something stupid on an Austrian glacier). That made it harder to do the sanding for a couple of weeks. But even though it was painful, I couldn’t stop... The different case-types: The painting turned out very well. I chose the best 14 cases after painting and decided to finish modding them, completely. I will call these “Barebones” in the following. In the pyramid-pictures they are always on top, because they were finished last and taken to the workshop more often. The 14 best cases got equipped with a 600W PSU, front-panel, water-cooling (for the mATX Barebones), apple power-cables, etc… They are now proper Barebones. No more hard work needed to finish the build. Just missing a motherboard (and maybe hard drives) - and done. 12 other cases did not end up perfectly painted, but still good. Some orange peel here and there. Only 4 of them have stronger orange peel. I will call these 12 cases “Empty Ones” in the following. An “empty case” What to do with the “Empty Ones”? They are also clean and modded. Ready for ATX or mATX boards, empty PSU-Enclosure… One could make furniture or art out of them… One could finish the mod with a new front panel. Or one could paint them again in a different colour… I don’t know… Let’s start from the beginning: Delivery: first we sorted the cases from “good condition” to “scratched and scuffed” This sorting turned out to be useless, later as I ended up sanding, filling and painting all of them. I chose the best ones in the end. We disassembled everything and sorted the parts – plastics, aluminium, batteries, electronics, etc… then gave everything to recycling. I am an environmental engineer, so this was important to me. I gave away all parts that could possibly be reused - Like fans, RAM and graphics cards. There are no pictures of the disassembly, because it has been done by many people already and we were also too busy (it took a couple of days). We ended up making our own tools and screwdrivers for removing the processors and mainboards, because many screws are hard to reach. All parts that I wanted to keep were cleaned and kept separately. E.g. the fan grilles on the back, the rubber screws for the HDD Caddy or the DVD-drive stand-offs Planning & Conversion Then I made a plan for the easiest ATX conversion with the least cutting. Best thing to do: Cut an opening to the back - big enough for ATX boards I/O and reuse the original PCIe slots for graphics cards. This turned out to be just perfect. I tested different boards. E.g.: ASUS TUF X99 (ATX) and ASrock AB350M (mATX) Night shift – working with the Dremel First cut for the ATX Mainboard I/O. All the Internals are removed. Also, the fan grille with its many mini-screws. So that the plastic is not melting. Cut-out (before filing and sanding). Sharp edges. Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges. Then the filing and sanding removed all sharp edges. I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy. This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils. I made two different stencils. One for ATX Boards and one for mATX Boards: Putting the standoff through the stencil and securing it with a screw Cleaning the surface before gluing. Both stencils with standoffs and fresh glue – right before placing it in the cases ATX stencil in the case – gluing down the standoffs. mATX stencil while gluing. It had to sit like this over night to make sure the glue is hard. Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. All stand-offs / threads are in the right position for standart mainboards, now. Now that all the disassembly, cutting and gluing was done it was time for some fresh paint. The painting: Before painting it was necessary to fill dents, file edges (there were chips, especially on the feet) and sand EVERYTHING to smoothen the surface and remove unwanted oils. Fill, file, sand, repeat… I used 2K Aluminium epoxy to fill dents The Epoxy is like a cold weld. Hard and sturdy. Dents before filling Dents after filling - before sanding More filling Filled and sanded case.   At first I did not want to paint them myself. So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks). They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts. The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint… I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach. So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...) What a fool I was. This took a week. First of all, I needed a cleanroom. So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden. Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm. To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would leave marks on the fresh paint). I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before. Paint-Shed from the inside Hanging case before spray-painting Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time. All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats. After spray-painting it was time for drying The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in. The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result: The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4. The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards. Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link? The “Empty Ones”: This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin: Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet. An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards. Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans. A finished ”empty” mATX case You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones” I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones: Time for re-assembly: Fan-Bracket: The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case. I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand. The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable). The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects) Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing Front-Panel: The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable. Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise. The case without any front-panel board or power-button. Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases. Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match. Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again. Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector: Installation of the front-panel board. The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted. The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work. I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify. Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds. For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings. Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector. Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability. DVD / Blu-Ray drive: Eject the disc tray with a paper clip. Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those) Standoffs installed Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done. PSU (Power Supply Unit): I thought a long time about the perfect PSU. I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability. The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable. How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU? I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing. So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound. Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors. Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti. Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing. Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints. The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension. The input-filter is still connected to the socket. The Apple power-cord. I found the perfect PSU. A 600W PSU by Supermicro. Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive. Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU. The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating. That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available. Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now) 80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet. All PSUs before they were put in It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing. The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord. Securing the PSU in place The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts. Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug. They also have a bigger input filter. Soldering the extension on. Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside PSU inside the original Apple-Housing All the cables come out near the back of the case. I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through. All PSUs are prepared The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester. These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal. PSU-Cables: - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter) - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well. - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter) - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case) You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard. The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed) HDD-Caddy: The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone. Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore) ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place Finished ATX Barebones: Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management Watercooling (mATX Barebones): Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases. I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones: Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case. This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop. The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment. The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+) Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out. You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure). Equipment: I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables) All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag. Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling: Here are some pictures of the internal layout: Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts. Finished mATX Barebone Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment Types of cases & Barebones: What I have right now: 12 fully modded Barebones: 6 - mATX - with watercooling 6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit) 12 “Empty Ones” - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel) - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel) The End: Thats it for now… What do you think? Was it worth it? What hardware would you put in? Please let me know… ;-) Yours, sincerely wise_rice
  17. kosakgroove

    VGA on Hackintosh

    Hi guys. My first laptop in signature has everything working, except for VGA in the HD4400. It has worked a couple of times, and when it works it does great. HDMI works perfect, though I have a big big VGA only screen Is there any way to make the VGA connection work better? Any Clover patches I could apply?
  18. gianni74

    Sierra su Asus N551JW laptop

    Salve a tutti, posseggo il laptop di Asus modello N551JW di un paio di anni fa. Grazie a varie guide e post sia qui che altrove sono riuscito a installare il MAC OS X 10.12.6 Sierra. Cosa sono riuscito a far funzionare: Audio utilizzato AppleALC 668 Bluethoot sto utilizzando un dongle esterno via USB Porte USB3 funzionanti IntelGraphics integrata funzionante come HD5200 Scheda Ethernet Standby funziona perfettamente iMessage & account Apple Store Masterizzatore DVD lo riconosce Cosa non funziona: WI-FI (e per questo è necessaria sostituzione hardware con una compatibile) Tastiera non riconosciuta, ma funzionante a metà: tasti per audio funzionanti con Fn+F10(muto)+F11(abbassare)+F12(aumentare), altri tasti no come luminosità e retroilluminazione della tastiera Batteria, riconosce solo se collegato all'alimentazione elettrica e riporta lo status della batteria fisso allo 0%, ho provato a staccare l'alimentazione e pur rimanendo a 0% il PC non va in errore né va in stop, dovrei effettuare un patch al DSDT, ma non so come si fa. Lettore di schede SD Fotocamera Qualcuno può aiutarmi a sistemare, possibilmente, ciò che non funziona? Grazie.
  19. I want to install High Sierra. I can get into the installation screen,but after the installer in my USB flash put something into my internal disk and I booted to "install macOS from internal disk",the following error occurred: my hardware:GA-x99m-gaming 5i7-6800knvidia-gtx-970 my EFI is in EFI.rar my error log is in Installer Log.txt. How to fix this problem? EFI.rar
  20. G'day guys, I recently bought a Surface Book i5 256GB with dGPU, and I found that there's no tutorial about Hackintosh since it's released, so i am here to be the first (maybe) to try this out This guide is not being recommended by its author, as the final performance is usually janky and unstable, most fundamental functions of your Surface will not work in Hackintosh, please always consider the consequence of proceeding, you also risk losing your data, again, please proceed with caution ******謝絕轉載謝謝配合****** ******Please do not repost, thanks****** ******転載禁止です。ご協力をお願いします。******* This project is deprecated (and it was only meant for 10.11 - 10.12.3) due to hardware availability on my side, no support for future OSes will be provided by me personally and support on current OSes will be limited. Your contributions, testing and guides will be appreciated by the community. video is up at Disclaimer: everything is on yourself, please proceed with caution and care Works Keyboard & Trackpad (No Gestures)(Buggy, when you hold a key, pointer won't move), SD card reader, USB 3.0 ports, Sound PCIe SSD Intel HD 520 Graphics works perfect on 10.11.4 DP Video output now works(don't close the lid, it lead to big problems)(after closing the lead with external monitor, when plug in the external monitor, it no longer recognize the internal display, you must unplug the monitor and reboot) Long press power key brings up the power menu Brightness Lid Doesn't work NVidia dGPU Touch Screen (Alex's driver won't work since it's now on HID Camplg ports, which is not open source) Wireless (Wi-Fi & Bluetooth) Volume rocker Battery status What Works for 10.12 Everything for 10.11 :-) Bugs For 10.12.3 and below Graphics is janky and unstable. and does not work natively, driver patch is needed Graphics will not work on 10.12.4 as reported for the built-in display, please take notice and do not upgrade First Step: Installing a Virtual Machine You will need a VM in order to get the thumb drive ready, please install a VM or you can use a real Mac to do this, the installation is not very hard, but do need some times for downloads and other stuff. Download VMWare Workstation Pro 12.0 Trial Version Download VMWare Unlocker Download Python Runtime Modify Unlocker Bat file -- In the unlocker installer, there's a win-install.bat file that you can open by CMD, but don't open yet, we need to modify a path in the file, open the file using your favorite text editor, find unlocker.exe in the file, change it to unlocker.py The previous step is redundant Follow the instruction on unlocker readme file Go to a Apple Store, get a Install App from their computer and convert the BaseSytem.dmg to CDR, or you can just skip those steps to the making USB step Use the converted CDR as install media in VMware Installing OS X as normal Second Step: Prepare to install You need an actual Mac to make the install USB or using a VM, both methods are fine, I wouldn't say more about installing a VM on your devices, you can Google that yourself You'll need to download the 10.11.x installing App from this link For macOS 10.12 please go to this link to get the preview version You need to open Disk Utility. Select the USB Drive and format it as Mac OS X Extended (Journal-ed), Name it whatever you want, as long as you can remember the name. Now, open the terminal, enter the following text, this will cost you around 4 minutes on a USB 3.0 device and 30 minutes on a USB 2.0 device, go get yourself some drinks For 10.11 sudo /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ El\ Capitan.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/PARTITION NAME --applicationpath "/Applicatons/Install OS X El Capitan.app" --nointeraction The previous method won't work on 10.12 anymore, you will get a USB that is not booting, use the guide below Download Clover from Clover Official Download Page Install Clover by choosing "Install UEFI Version only, install to EFI partition, Install Themes, Driver64UEFI(unselect CsmVideoDxe-64) After installing, you should see a Partition called EFI mounted, and it's your thumb drive (Copy the EFI folder from Installing OS X to the EFI Partition) only do this if it didn't do atomically DownloadSurfaceDriver.zip and follow the instruction in the ReadMe.txt to paste the files into your CLOVER folder ++++++++++Notice for 10.12 USB Creation++++++++++ The pervious way of making the 10.11 drive won't work anymore in 10.12, instead, after downloading the 10.12 install app, you'll need to follow the following steps Show hidden files by executing this command defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES Navigate to /Application/Install macOS Sierra/Contents/SharedSupport and mount InstallESD.dmg Open "Disk Utility", restore the USB drive with Basesystem.dmg (hidden) in the mounted DMG file. Copy /Packages in the mounted DMG file to the restored USB's /System/Installation. Delete the old link before proceeding to the copy. Copy basesystem.dmg and basesystem.chunklist to the root directory of your USB drive Third Step: Installing OS X 10.11 Now, we can start installing 10.11, you should plug in an external keyboard, mouse, and your thumb drive, after you finish the booting process, you should see the welcome page, choose the language you prefer and proceed the installation Go to Windows First, partition your drive for at least 50 GB if you want to keep using, because as I tried before, remapping disk after installing macOS or OS X is extremely HARD, don't try that unless it's necessary, you will risk the integrity of your data by doing that Choose Disk Utility, choose your installing partition and click erase, format as OS X Extended (Journal-ed), then, exit Disk Utility and proceed the installation process, you might need to proceed the same process twice to get the full install, so if you didn't saw your OS X drive, please choose install again. (The installation will automatically continue.) Or: Installing macOS 10.12 Please change ig-platform-id to 12345678 before installing the framebuffer kext. Things getting a little bit tricky when you're trying to install 10.12 on Surface Book. Since there's still a little bit of problems with the NVMe driver, you will likely get a error message says: unable to unmount volume for repair I am not sure if the error spreads largely, but, I experienced it every time I install the 10.12 The temporary workaround is that to use an external USB hard drive or a SD card, I don't recommend a USB thumb drive unless it's superfast. Install 10.12 as normal to the external hard drive apply all the combo updates to the external hard drive system Use the recovery environment comes with the Installer (not the hard drive) Open Disk Utilities and restore the whole USB hard drive to the macOS install drive You can apply combo or delta updates as normal, but do not apply big updates that requires a standalone app download, backup and reinstall instead Problems regarding 10.12 installing has been solved, please proceed as normal The Final Process: Make your experience better You don't have to patch the keyboard drivers for 10.12.1 and/or above For 10.12, please install the kexts in 10.12 "install" folder located in the driver pack Make the keyboard works (10.11 only) Navigate to InstallHD/System/Library/Extension Copy the IOUSBFamily Kext to your desktop or wherever you like Right click on it and choose show package content, go to /Contents/PlugIns Right click on IOUSBHIDDriver and choose show package content, go to /Contents Open Info.plist using software like: PlistEditor Pro, and xCode Navigate to IOKitPersonalities Copy Generic Keyboard and right click on IOKitPersonalities Select "Paste as a child" Expand Generic Keyboard 2 change the value of bInterfaceProtocol to 0 change the value of bInterfaceSubclass to 3 change USBCompatibilityMatch to YES (doesn't have this on 10.11) save the file and open Kext Utilities Drag and Drop the kext in to it, enter password and after it finished reboot, then you should have a working keyboard Install Clover to SSD To install clover to ssd, you need the CLOVER PKG installer and remeber to update as a new version releases, it might contains bug fixes. Install clover as normal, install to your HACKINTOSH INSTALL DRIVE Use UEFI Boot Version, Install theme, and Driver, unselect CsmVideoDxe PUT THE SURFACE BOOT DRIVER INTO THE DIRECTORY Use BOOTICE x64 Version under windows, mount EFI under windows, Select UEFI tab, add a new boot entry navigate to EFI:\EFI\CLOVER\CLOVERX64.efi, name it clover bootloader (or whatever you like). Go to Surface UEFI, unselect Windows Boot Manager under Boot tab, select and drag CLOVER to the first position of the UEFI boot sequence, NOTICE: DO NOT DELETE "INTERNAL" selection in UEFI setup, or your Surface WILL NOT BOOT (won't happen on newer BIOS) By the way, according to the feedback, there has been some problems with the AppleHDA patch, please install AppleHDA298.kext to S/L/E directly using your kext installer instead of placing it under /CLOVER/kexts, also, please use sRGB as color profile to avoid any grahpics glitch in 10.11. _____________________________________________________________________ You'll need a Wi-Fi dongle to get online or you can use USB Sharing on Android and iOS, don't know whether network sharing on Ubuntu Touch, Windows Phone and Blackberry will work You'll also need a Bluetooth dongle to get BT working __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Thanks to LonelyTV MeuPRodrigo maj1es2tic Pike and all of you
  21. Hi, I thought it would be nice that I would be the first here to give my experience with getting Mojave running and mostly working on my system. My specifications are as follows: iMac 14,2 GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD5H / Intel Core i7-4770k @ 4.4GHz / 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600MHz MSI AMD Radeon HD 7870 2GB OC 250GB SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND SSD / 120GB OCZ Agility 3 SSD 1TB 5.4K HDD I used the config that @MaLd0n helped me with. Seriously, he is a legend. HERE is my Clover Config including everything I use for 10.13 High Sierra and 10.14 Mojave. Installation Procedure: Create bootable USB media with createinstallmedia - sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ 10.14\ Beta.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/"Insert Volume Name here" ***** Remove quotation marks!!! **"--Applicationpath" is now depreciated and should not be used when making a 10.14 Mojave USB. I do not know if this will change in upcoming releases. ** ConvertToAPFS is now depreciated and no longer works when installing 10.14 Mojave beta 1. Using the command "--converttoapfs NO" will not work if you use it with "createinstallmedia". Editing "minstallconfig.xml" within the "macOS Install Data" folder on the target partition chosen during installation to change "ConvertToAPFS" from "TRUE" to "FALSE" would also not disable APFS conversion. Installation ran through well, but it did restart just after installation began which seemed to have been caused by a crash, but it seemed like it was normal as this happened twice as I tried installing Mojave earlier and the same thing happened. Rebooting again into the installation on the target drive that was selected before described as "macOS Install" and named "macOS 10.14" resumed installation. Everything from then on was easy and smooth. I set-up my iCloud and things as such and was brought to the desktop of macOS 10.14 Mojave! What does work: Graphics (Acceleration/Metal) // 4K video dropped 0 frames // Picture-in-Picture Mouse and Keyboard USB 3.0 - Full 5 GBP/s - Only ports above HDMI Port and front I/O USB 3.0 under both Intel and Killer Ethernet ports function with USB 2.0 devices. Ethernet (only Intel NIC so far) Both NIC's work, Intel I217-V and Killer E2200 iMessage Sleep and Wake Shutdown Restart Update #1: Temporary Fix: ***I have gotten audio to work after browsing Reddit, I stumbled across this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hackintosh/comments/8orn7w/mojave_files_needed/e05kkj9/ Update #2: I have just found a kext for the on-board Killer E2200 NIC after searching with device and vendor ID's on this forum. https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/files/file/313-atherose2200ethernet/ Update #3: Audio is now fully operational with new version 1.2.8 of AppleALC, from here: What does NOT work: USB 3 under Intel I217-V NIC and Killer E2200 NIC Ethernet Ports // Only function with USB 2.0 devices. Audio Temporary fix in Update #1 above Fixed in Update #3 Killer E2200 NIC Fixed in Update #2 above This is the information I have been able to gather thus far whilst using Mojave. I hope this helps someone in getting Mojave running on their system. Regards, Mohamed CLOVER_moman2000 No SN.zip
  22. Hello guys! now that i have done with MaLd0n and some user´s help, some hackintosh , i want to start in the laptops world. I have read some guides, issues and things that happens with laptops, so i want to buy the best hardware that are in the market at May of 2017. What are the best models of laptops for hackintosh that you like ? (all i5,i7 are welcome xD) ¡Thanks all!