Jump to content

Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'modding'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • InsanelyMac Lounge
    • Front Page News and Rumors
    • Reader News and Reviews
    • Forum Information and Feedback
  • OSx86 Project
    • New Releases and Updates
    • New Users Lounge
    • Developers Corner
    • Tutorials (The Genius Bar)
    • Technical FAQ
    • Installation
    • Post-Installation
    • DSDT and SSDT
    • Hardware Components and Drivers
    • Desktops
    • Notebooks
    • Netbooks
    • Tablets
    • MacMod of the Month
    • Multi-booting and Virtualisation
  • International
    • Your Language
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Português
    • Русский
  • Apple World
    • Mac OS X
    • Apple Computers and Hardware
    • iOS Devices
    • Mac Applications
    • Mac Programming and Development
    • iOS Programming and Development
    • Mac Gaming
    • Mac Accessories
  • Discuss and Learn
    • Windows Discussion
    • *nix
    • Apple Opinions and Discussion
    • The Great Debates
    • Internet(s), Servers, and Networks
    • Buying Thoughts, Reviews, and Recommendations
    • Mods and Overclocking
    • The Big Issues [Real Life]
  • Everything Else
    • Creativity
    • Thunderdome (Random Stuff)
    • Laughs
    • The Marketplace

Categories

  • Kexts
    • Graphics Cards
    • Audio
    • LAN and Wireless
    • Other
  • Kernels
  • Bootloaders
  • DSDTs
    • Patches
  • Pandora
  • Apps
  • Miscellaneous
  • Customization

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 10 results

  1. So, I am officially crazy... I bought 26 Powermacs (G5) And I modded them ALL They are now ready for ATX and mATX Mainboards… But why 26? Did I mention I was crazy?! (And they were only sold together…) I modded G5 Cases before – They kind of became my passion. This time I wanted everything to be perfect: - Keep as much of the original design as possible - Cut as less as possible - Since it is impossible to find a G5 Case without dents and scratches, I wanted to paint them, freshly. I am done now and it is time to share my experiences: It was a rough 6 months from start to finish. The project kept me busy during all of the winter. I worked every weekend on it, till late. I need to apologize… …to my family for occupying their workshop, guest rooms and garages …to my friends for neglecting them during the last months …to the dogs and the cat for waking them up from their afternoon nap every now and then (because of the metalwork-noise). I hope to be able and show everybody that it was worth it - And that someone out there is appreciating the work, as well. Back me up, guys - Spread the love :-) I believe in Apples high quality and the unique design of Sir Jony Ive My mods include a preinstalled power supply (and even watercooling on some) Countless hours of work and high-quality components & tools were used Of course, you can come and have a look if you are near the South of Germany (or the North of Switzerland). Finished Builds: I do not have the money to equip all cases with CPU, RAM and SSDs right now. But it would be so much fun to do it, now that all the hard work is done. I will definitively equip machines later and build completely custom machines I already equipped two of the shown modded cases with complete hardware. One was for a music-studio. One for my brother. Threads for the finished build projects will be linked here later: Workstation & Gaming-Beast for my brother: - ATX- X99-Mainbaord - 8-Core Intel XEON E5-1660 v3 (Overclocked to 4 GHz - all-core) - 64GB ECC-RAM (Registered DIMMs) with dual Copper heatsinks & Heatpipes - 3x1TB SSD RAID5 - Two 1080Ti in SLI (two flexible SLI Bridges were later installed) Ryzentosh (For music production studio): o mATX Mainboard o Ryzen 1700X o biggest cooler on the market (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro) o 32GB RAM (ECC Unregistered DIMMs) with Aluminium heatsinks o 3x1TB SSD RAID5 A finished (painted) case from the outside. The Apple logo is gone after painting… For the better, I think! The rear of a finished build Preliminaries: All the planning that goes into modding one case actually affected 26 cases. It had to be perfect. That’s why I planned every step and every purchase of parts, meticulously. Then I applied every individual operation to all cases, one after another. This raised the quality of all cases. The metalwork (Filing, sanding, equalizing, gluing and painting) took a very long time. I don’t even know how many hours it took per case because I always did one individual operation to all cases (e.g. filing or cutting) and then started the next task. It probably took a couple of days per G5. Then I broke my shoulder in May 2017 (doing something stupid on an Austrian glacier). That made it harder to do the sanding for a couple of weeks. But even though it was painful, I couldn’t stop... The different case-types: The painting turned out very well. I chose the best 14 cases after painting and decided to finish modding them, completely. I will call these “Barebones” in the following. In the pyramid-pictures they are always on top, because they were finished last and taken to the workshop more often. The 14 best cases got equipped with a 600W PSU, front-panel, water-cooling (for the mATX Barebones), apple power-cables, etc… They are now proper Barebones. No more hard work needed to finish the build. Just missing a motherboard (and maybe hard drives) - and done. 12 other cases did not end up perfectly painted, but still good. Some orange peel here and there. Only 4 of them have stronger orange peel. I will call these 12 cases “Empty Ones” in the following. An “empty case” What to do with the “Empty Ones”? They are also clean and modded. Ready for ATX or mATX boards, empty PSU-Enclosure… One could make furniture or art out of them… One could finish the mod with a new front panel. Or one could paint them again in a different colour… I don’t know… Let’s start from the beginning: Delivery: first we sorted the cases from “good condition” to “scratched and scuffed” This sorting turned out to be useless, later as I ended up sanding, filling and painting all of them. I chose the best ones in the end. We disassembled everything and sorted the parts – plastics, aluminium, batteries, electronics, etc… then gave everything to recycling. I am an environmental engineer, so this was important to me. I gave away all parts that could possibly be reused - Like fans, RAM and graphics cards. There are no pictures of the disassembly, because it has been done by many people already and we were also too busy (it took a couple of days). We ended up making our own tools and screwdrivers for removing the processors and mainboards, because many screws are hard to reach. All parts that I wanted to keep were cleaned and kept separately. E.g. the fan grilles on the back, the rubber screws for the HDD Caddy or the DVD-drive stand-offs Planning & Conversion Then I made a plan for the easiest ATX conversion with the least cutting. Best thing to do: Cut an opening to the back - big enough for ATX boards I/O and reuse the original PCIe slots for graphics cards. This turned out to be just perfect. I tested different boards. E.g.: ASUS TUF X99 (ATX) and ASrock AB350M (mATX) Night shift – working with the Dremel First cut for the ATX Mainboard I/O. All the Internals are removed. Also, the fan grille with its many mini-screws. So that the plastic is not melting. Cut-out (before filing and sanding). Sharp edges. Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges. Then the filing and sanding removed all sharp edges. I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy. This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils. I made two different stencils. One for ATX Boards and one for mATX Boards: Putting the standoff through the stencil and securing it with a screw Cleaning the surface before gluing. Both stencils with standoffs and fresh glue – right before placing it in the cases ATX stencil in the case – gluing down the standoffs. mATX stencil while gluing. It had to sit like this over night to make sure the glue is hard. Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. All stand-offs / threads are in the right position for standart mainboards, now. Now that all the disassembly, cutting and gluing was done it was time for some fresh paint. The painting: Before painting it was necessary to fill dents, file edges (there were chips, especially on the feet) and sand EVERYTHING to smoothen the surface and remove unwanted oils. Fill, file, sand, repeat… I used 2K Aluminium epoxy to fill dents The Epoxy is like a cold weld. Hard and sturdy. Dents before filling Dents after filling - before sanding More filling Filled and sanded case.   At first I did not want to paint them myself. So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks). They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts. The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint… I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach. So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...) What a fool I was. This took a week. First of all, I needed a cleanroom. So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden. Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm. To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would leave marks on the fresh paint). I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before. Paint-Shed from the inside Hanging case before spray-painting Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time. All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats. After spray-painting it was time for drying The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in. The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result: The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4. The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards. Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link? The “Empty Ones”: This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin: Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet. An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards. Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans. A finished ”empty” mATX case You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones” I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones: Time for re-assembly: Fan-Bracket: The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case. I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand. The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable). The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects) Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing Front-Panel: The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable. Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise. The case without any front-panel board or power-button. Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases. Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match. Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again. Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector: Installation of the front-panel board. The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted. The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work. I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify. Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds. For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings. Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector. Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability. DVD / Blu-Ray drive: Eject the disc tray with a paper clip. Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those) Standoffs installed Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done. PSU (Power Supply Unit): I thought a long time about the perfect PSU. I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability. The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable. How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU? I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing. So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound. Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors. Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti. Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing. Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints. The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension. The input-filter is still connected to the socket. The Apple power-cord. I found the perfect PSU. A 600W PSU by Supermicro. Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive. Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU. The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating. That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available. Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now) 80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet. All PSUs before they were put in It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing. The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord. Securing the PSU in place The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts. Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug. They also have a bigger input filter. Soldering the extension on. Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside PSU inside the original Apple-Housing All the cables come out near the back of the case. I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through. All PSUs are prepared The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester. These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal. PSU-Cables: - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter) - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well. - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter) - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case) You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard. The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed) HDD-Caddy: The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone. Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore) ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place Finished ATX Barebones: Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management Watercooling (mATX Barebones): Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases. I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones: Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case. This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop. The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment. The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+) Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out. You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure). Equipment: I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables) All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag. Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling: Here are some pictures of the internal layout: Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts. Finished mATX Barebone Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment Types of cases & Barebones: What I have right now: 12 fully modded Barebones: 6 - mATX - with watercooling 6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit) 12 “Empty Ones” - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel) - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel) The End: Thats it for now… What do you think? Was it worth it? What hardware would you put in? Please let me know… ;-) Yours, sincerely wise_rice
  2. I wanted to push watercooling to the most. Silent. Level. possible. While gaming and also for working. Quite a challenge and a lot to learn. Thoughts on water-cooling: It always depends on the use-case if water-cooling is more silent than air-cooling. My personal experience: Air-cooling is more silent in idle load scenarios (when you just do some easy tasks like browsing or office) Water-cooling is more silent for constant high load (e.g. when you are gaming/working for long times) Tricks to get the water-cooling as silent as possible: Configure the BIOS to turn off the radiator-fans in Idle load scenarios. That leaves only the pump running. Undervolt the pump (to e.g. constant 7V). This works best, if you can plug the pump into a fan or pump header and assign a constant (lower that 100%) speed to it in the BIOS. If your BIOS does not allow that, you could use a resistor-adaptor to slow it down. This project started before my 26 PowerMac G5 Case Modding Project
  3. Marchrius

    NVidia Web Driver Modder

    Version 1.0

    2,110 downloads

    After a build number increment (eg. 14C1510 -> 141514 ) the official NVidia Web Driver stop to work because of the internal check. This script helps you in patching the kext and add the relative boot-args. But this isn't the only functionality. There is also a useful function for users like me that haven't a "compatible" Mac ( I have a MacBook Pro 5,1 with GeForce 9600M GT) to patch also the installer. Usage (without quotes): "sudo NVidiaWebdriverModder.sh --skip-version-check" to patch the NVDAStartup.kext to load on the current system (need reboot and root user) "NVidiaWebdriverModder.sh WebDriver-xxx.xx.xxxxx.pkg" to patch the WebDriver.pkg installer file
  4. Hey guys, working on my second Hackintosh project, and just finished the paintjob and visual side of it. Not sure what to call it: I was inspired by sci-fi movies (Aliens (1986) in particular as the attentive reader might notice). Perhaps simply "BauerCorp Mod" or similar. Anywho, this is the build so far: (Software setup still remains) • Primary use: Creative work, video editing • Corsair C70 case • Inno3D iChill GTX 1080 TI • ASUS Maximus X Hero 370 (Wi-fi, Bluetooth) • i7 8700K • 32 GB HyperX RAM • Samsung 500GB 850 EVO M.2 SSD • (7 SSD drives total > Will be transferred from current machine when everything else is ready. Same with lighting.) • PSU: Corsair RM750X • CPU fan: Noctua NH-D15 Let me know what you think, and if you´re interested I´ll post more about the build/painting process itself. Thanks
  5. hah, niiiiceee will try this sometime thanks
  6. Dear Patrons of Insanelymac, My name is WhatTheTech, and I am the author of the Ultimate G5 Resource Page that many of you have used over the past year or so to help you mod your Powermac G5. It was originally a thread on Tonymac, and was then moved to WhatTheTech.info, where it has garnered quite a bit of attention over the past few months (the original thread was mentioned in an article on Lifehacker.com). On Friday (fingers crossed we launch in time), it will be moved again. I have been working with a few of the dedicated G5 modders in this community and others, to put together a one-stop website for people looking to mod the Powermac G5 (and other Apple hardwares). The website will of course have the Ultimate G5 Resource Page, the G5 Beginner's FAQ, as well as the Front Panel Informational Page and several others that are in the works as we speak. We also will have a "Submit Your Mod" area where you can show off your mod. Unlike these forums, which are excellent for discussion-based worklogs and mods, this is simply going to be a centralized collection of already-finished G5 mods to inspire and possibly instruct. Each mod gallery has the ability to have a link to the original thread, so we also hope to send some people towards InsanelyMac too (believe it or not, there are people who have no idea what a hackintosh is, but still want to mod a G5!!!) From our launch date, we will have a store where you can find custom-made parts for your G5 mod, built by people in the G5 community. Hopefully in a week or so, I will have enough stock to open the stock-parts store, offering G5 cases and internal parts cheaper than anywhere else on the web! I already have some G5 cases looking for new homes at a VERY reasonable price. We are not looking to take away users from Insanelymac or any other website, this community means to much to all of us for that. We are simply looking to provide easily-accessed information for people on the G5-modding journey! We do not run ads, and people selling through our website do not pay fees. We are simply in this for the love of modding. Any profits from the store will go right back in to purchasing more stock to pass on at killer prices, as well as to cover hosting fees. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or send me an email at contact@g5modders.com - I will be more than happy to answer any that you might have. We really would love for you to stop on by - submit your mod, take a look at the new articles that will be going up, and make sure to check out our "Thank You" page where you will see some familiar names! Thank you all for your support so far and don't forget....MOD ON! Note: I asked for and received permission to post this thread!
  7. ...and says "do whatever you want with it" - it's VERY hard to stay in retirement. Hi to everyone who remembers me! For those who don't, I ran the short-lived G5Modders.com website as well as the soon-to-be-relaunched MacModders.com site! I have backups of the Ultimate G5 Modding thread as well as various other tutorials, guides, builds and whatnot that will be put back online - it's awesome to see people still modding away! With a 24" iMac and a 15" Macbook Pro from work for home use, as well as a last-gen Mac Pro with a 30" ACD at my desk at work, it was easy to go into a retirement. I had two computers at home, one at work - what else could I want? Well all that changed when we were clearing out some old junk (I work at a printing company) and came across an old dusty G5 in perfect condition besides a few minor scratches and labels stuck to it. After replacing the hard-drive and RAM...BLAM - up and running, well currently installing OS X Panther. I was told to keep it, since I'm pretty sure it doesn't run the Adobe CC 2014 suite... As much as I love that this is a fully-functional G5, for it to be useful for me, it's going to have to be gutted and replaced with a hackintosh. Besides, what's the fun of having a G5 case without ripping it open?? This will be a slow worklog - I have to pull all of my modding supplies out of storage, choose my parts, order one of TLH's fantastic trays... Nice to be back, looking forward to seeing some old faces!
  8. So, Im doing a G5 (late 2005 model) case mod in which I plan to use the original front panel for the Power Button and Power LED (and other connections which I have figured out) As you might know this is the model with the difficult front panel with no simple connection- no probelmo, I can work with it but I have become a little confused with the task of getting my motherboard to work with the original Front Panel. Heres a diagram of the G5 front panel pinout- 01 02 03 04 05 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Audio USB Firewire Button/LED unknown 01: Audio Left 02: Audio GND 03: Audio Right 04: ??? 05: FIREWIRE GND (double) 06: USB VCC (+5V) 07: GND 08: GND 09: FIREWIRE TPB- 10: FIREWIRE TPB+ 11: LED 12: Firewire FW802C IC VDDA (+3.3V) 13: ??? 14: GND 15: FIREWIRE VCC (double) (+12V) 16: GND 17: USB D- 18: USB D+ 19: GND 20: FIREWIRE TPA- 21: FIREWIRE TPA+ 22: BUTTON And for my motherboard- So what I'm confused about is connecting the Power Button and Power LED from the motherboard to the front panel as on the front panel pinout there is only 1 connection for the power button and power led but on the Motherboards pinout there is 2 connections for each- how can I get them to work? Any help on this would be great! Thanks
  9. Ira Aduro

    G5 // Legacy

    G5 // LEGACY // concept image // Introduction: Two months ago I had never heard of a G5 case being modded. Now here I am, attempting my own. I've read through about every mod on here and other sites so in some ways I feel like I'm just rehashing what's been done ad nauseum. Hopefully I can give back to the community with some new ideas. Also, this is going to be an "open source" project. What I mean is that any custom parts or cuts I make I will be providing schematics for anyone else to use. I don't know CAD but I know Adobe Illustrator and you can save CAD files from it. So, for example. I'll be designing a custom top shelf and PSU holder. Once those designs are finalized and I know they work/fit I'll be posting them here. At this point I have to thank: Bonestonne, Mr. D, eep357, and WhattheTech for their invaluable help and advice already. I'm going to attempt a few things with this mod: 1) Keep original IO ports 2) repurpose DVD bay by using a slot loading DVD above it 3) Keep a very similar layout to the original G5 but take ideas from the Mac Pro 4) Extremely clean inside and cable management 5) Perhaps a glowing false floor e.g. MurderMod 6) Reuse as much of the original parts as possible 7) Near silent operation 8) Relocate power plug from bottom to top 9) glowing trim like Tron. Though the painting part will come last. Perhaps will use glow in the dark paint, or EL strips. 10) Some custom holders for the PSU, a free standing easily removed motherboard tray, and upper shelf covers (similar to Mac Pro) Some problems: 1) starting Feb 15th I'm going to have very little free time for five weeks as I help the company I work for relocate 2) I really have no experience AT ALL cutting metal, wiring, etc, etc. I wasn't going to make a thread until I was nearly finished but I realized I'm going to have a lot of questions so I should ask people that would know So, let's dive in. The rear IO ports. I only would use the USB ports the rest I'll bring online as I need them and will be using the original receptacles kept in place. For the USB ports I've found these wonderful ports: Link to ebay product. The metal tabs on the outward face keep the port from being pushed into the G5 case and if you push up some of the metal tabs used to grab a USB device they will keep the port from being pulled out. I had it in and tested it and it worked perfectly but I forgot to take photos. Silly me. I did take a photo of my "solder your own USB 3.0 cable" test: In the end I'll probably make the back two USB ports 2.0 (just four wires to solder instead of nine). I'm making my own cables so I can bridge the gap between the motherboard IO ports and the G5 IO ports with a cable that is the perfect length. I'll heatshrink and then sleeve these. I'm also going to be covering the motherboard IO ports attractively because I hate how shiny metal they are. The DVD drive. So I bought a GA31N slot loading DVD drive from a Dell XPS 13. It's the exact same drive called "super drive" by Apple. Instead of having to make my own custom case for it (just to keep it looking good) I bought this cheap but effective thing: I'm still deciding final placement. Either at the top above the original DVD opening or sideways next to the front ports. Keeping the inside similar. Here's a test fitting (ignore the cardboard they are raising the motherboard up to the right level, still trying to nail down how high motherboard needs to be raised. Looking down: Under the hood (shield a little crooked due to this being a rough fit in) The bottom part of the case will have a false flooring where I'll have knick knacks like an LED consolidator and stuff. Thermal design: My most likely final design for airflow, thanks to many people who helped me with this but especially Bonestonne. Cable Management design: A simplified view of what cables and where. Red lines are power cables, green are data. Dashed lines mean cable is running behind object. Holder for PSU: So I figured out I can use the bolts that hold the inner shell of the G5 to the outer shell as part of a holder for the Power Supply. First a photo of the power supply, got a great deal on a x750 Seasonic fully modular. And here is a quick drawing of my idea, basically you unscrew the bolts and the metal fits between them and the top of the case with a small "lip on the forward facing side of the holder to keep it from sliding backward. The back facing part of the holder has two metal sections that attach to the PSU, holding it in place. In this drawing I have drawn the holder bending under the PSU but I've just realized I don't need that part so pretend it's not there. I realize this is a hard to understand sketch so I'll do a roughout in sketchup in a bit. Blending Mac Pro and G5: I mentioned wanting to blend Mac Pro and G5. I'm planning on taking the idea of covers for the top shelf from the Mac Pro and creating somethin similar for this G5 mod. So for example this: I have two 2 x 2.5" hotswap HD bays from Rosewill. Those would go behind the double slitted covers. I've been toying with the idea of removing the case around the two hotswap bays and building a custom backplate that would hold the sata and power connector and allow you to slide out two HDs per cover, like how the Mac Pro operates. An alternative placement for HDs would be cutting out a section of the false floor and storing them in there (they are thin enough to fit into the newly cut hole. I had mentioned in a previous thread about a power column that ran from top of the case to the bottom and hid all the power cables. That's it for now. Thanks for reading. Any thoughts or critiques you might have, I'm very interested in receiving them, everything right now is in a state of flexibility.
  10. So I got a hold on a pretty complete and OK state PowerMac G5 case, without the logic board and no PSU, although the PSU casing is present. I actually didn't know what to do with it when I bought it, all I knew is wanted to do a project with a Mac Pro or PowerMac G5 for a very long time. Here are some photos: In the foto's above I removed the optical drive since I'll probably not use it or replace it with a SATA one, it's just not a priority at all. It also has no physical damage except some scratches. I don't know if I'll leave it like that or I'll treat it with a new coat of anodising, it's also one of the last things on my mind. The plan now is to make it into a NAS, since I need lots of room for disks and this case can supply me with that space. I want to get about 8 hard drives in there as a starting point in the same way as another modder did. But I'm contemplating on using the Mac Pro hard drive brackets with a custom-built system to hang them all horizontally, in a vertical arrangement. If anyone has the exact measurements of those Mac Pro HDD trays, I owe you one. I'm also planning of putting the entire motherboard inside, using a seperate custom board for the connections on the back. I saw that someone was making them as a project, but it didn't include the FireWire or optical ports, which I intend to do include. I'm still not sure if this is doable but this project doesn't need to be finished any time soon, so I'll probably get this done later anyway. As the PC hardware goes, nothing is set in stone. It depends when most of the work is complete and how much disposable income I have at that time I guess. At the moment I'm thinking it will be my retiring current system, which is the following: - micro-ATX Asus P5E-VM HDMI (onboard video) - Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6850 - 8GB Corsair Dominator DDR2 PC2-8500 - bunch of 3,5" hard drives I also have a Scythe Mugen II CPU-cooler somewhere that I never got to install due to my current case not having enough room. As the power supply I'm not sure what I will do, except that I will use the hidden compartment and the case of the original PSU to get one in there. I have an Antec NeoPower Blue 650W PSU and a Shuttle PC50 250W PSU (very compact), not sure which one to use yet but I have options. Also something worth mentioning: the standard 120mm fan is specced at 12V and 0.37A, while the two 60mm fans in the Apple PSU case are specced at 12V and 0.17A each. This results in a nice 0.34A when both are connected, so the PSU can use them without a problem. This is what I'm planning for the PSU: The original PSU: Placement: What I'm going for: The plan is to have the modular ports exposed so I can easily add cables. Not certain about this though, but it's an option. Since I'll only need two SATA powercables for the Corsair SATA backplane kits, I decided it was easier to just solder the cables to the PSU PCB: I also connected the fans which just work because they have a comparable power draw (12V 0.17A x2 vs 12V 0.37A) as the Antec's original fan. You can also see I provisioned a connector for the PSU, should I ever decide to change it, it will be easier. And this is how it looks with the shelf on the PSU: I also put the rear fan frame in for reference. Fans: 2x Noctua NF-B9 fans and 1x Noctua NF-R8 fan to replace the original fans. I needed the included rubber mounts for the 80mm fan as I managed to break off two of the 10-year old original ones. Luckily they won't be in the direct line of sight when you open the case. The ones on the 92mm fan bracket I managed to preserve. 2x Corsair SATA 6Gbps Upgrade kit for 800D. This is basically a very cheap and elegant solution to add multiple SATA ports, only uses one port for power and comes included with a nice male-female cable. I plan on using these in the front of the case. On the overall look, I want to keep it as clean as possible and as original as possible. When all the preparations are complete, I'll likely include the G5 shield to cover the motherboard. I've already ordered replacement fans (from Noctua) and two 4-port SATA backplane kits from Corsair, along with the front-panel I/O cable from BlackCH. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome !
×