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[Discussion] Fit a PC in a G5 PowerMac Enclosure!


TribesMan
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Got my new ASrock mobo working. The sleep works. When it wakes up, and turns on the fans, it sounds just like my G5 waking up. (Its almost spooky). SO...

 

I just bought a G5 case on ebay. Gonna make me a beautiful hackintosh. :whistle:


  • 3 weeks later...
Got my new ASrock mobo working. The sleep works. When it wakes up, and turns on the fans, it sounds just like my G5 waking up. (Its almost spooky). SO...

 

I just bought a G5 case on ebay. Gonna make me a beautiful hackintosh. :(

 

Glad to hear you got sleep working. Something i could never manage.

 

Make sure you post your hackintosh work here for other people thinking of doing it to see. Good Luck


There is never a powermac g3. g4 or g5 case on ebay in the uk. If you did get one off ebay, your lucky. I would pay upto £120 for a case like that. My pc rip-off id a bit crappy, mind it only cost £10.\

 

Any got one?

 

BaYlisS


There is never a powermac g3. g4 or g5 case on ebay in the uk. If you did get one off ebay, your lucky. I would pay upto £120 for a case like that. My pc rip-off id a bit crappy, mind it only cost £10.\

 

Any got one?

 

BaYlisS

 

Ive got one that im not using. Mac Pro sorted that one out.... PM me bayliss if your interested.


Got my new ASrock mobo working. The sleep works.

but does anyone have working power on by schedule in power pref. ??

i do //

Edited by boo50

There is never a powermac g3. g4 or g5 case on ebay in the uk. If you did get one off ebay, your lucky. I would pay upto £120 for a case like that. My pc rip-off id a bit crappy, mind it only cost £10.\

 

Any got one?

 

BaYlisS

 

Well....there was a G5 case last week, a touch expensive although your £120 would have got it, I think. If you want a G4 case- the Quicksilver is best for modding imho - www.scrumpymacs.com, and email the owner Phil. Tell him I sent you. Mine cost me £40

 

//R


Here's a few pics of my Hackintosh.

 

The Watercooling on my Hacintosh is up and running, photos are here:

 

http://www.aqua-mac.com/hackintoshaqua-m.html

 

You may need to refresh your browser or empty Safari's cache to see the new pics.

 

front1a.jpeg

 

back.jpeg

 

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quadrofx5500.jpeg

 

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aqua-mac

Edited by aqua-mac

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I just got a used G5 case today but it didn't include the wires to connect the front ports to the motherboard. I asked the guy I bought it from before I paid if there were wires attached and he said yes...oh well. Anyone know where I can locate one?


  • 2 weeks later...

If anyone has the PROPER pinouts for the g5 case it would REALLY REALLY be appreciated. I've been through several different threads all of which have different pins representing different things for the power and LED switch on the I/O panel...all i need is to get the Power switch and LED working on my Gigabyte 965P-Dq6 mobo.

 

i wish we can just get a standard diagram

 

does anyone have that?

 

and not some cryptic messed up diagram like the most recent pinout thread eaither


If anyone has the PROPER pinouts for the g5 case it would REALLY REALLY be appreciated. I've been through several different threads all of which have different pins representing different things for the power and LED switch on the I/O panel...all i need is to get the Power switch and LED working on my Gigabyte 965P-Dq6 mobo.

 

i wish we can just get a standard diagram

 

does anyone have that?

 

and not some cryptic messed up diagram like the most recent pinout thread eaither

 

you can always use a multimeter, some wire, and a soldering iron and make pigtails straight from the powerswitch and the led

 

that how i reworked my g4 quicksiler frontpanel for my flip mod.

Edited by DiaboliK

you can always use a multimeter, some wire, and a soldering iron and make pigtails straight from the powerswitch and the led

 

that how i reworked my g4 quicksiler frontpanel for my flip mod.

 

yeah i ended up doing that...im wiring it straight to the powerswitch board itself but i'm encountering something wierd with my initial tests. Seperately, i can get the switch the power on my computer and when it's running i can get the LED to turn on...turns out the middle solder lead on the power button is shared by the msg led - and pw+ on my mobo while the 1st lead is the msg led+ and the 3rd lead is the pw minus. Seperately they work fine...but when i twist the msg led - and the pw+ wires and place it on the middle solder lead on the power switch it seems to go into a reset loop...I'm not sure maybe something is touching something it's not supposed to I need to solder it on and test it some more.

 

When i look on the other side of the powerswitch board...right under the LED is what appears to be a resistor....

 

What i'm thnking is is there some sort of circuitry that is splitting the signals to prevent it from putting it into a reset loop or something?

 

I'm thinking maybe it would stop reseting itself if i wired directly to the led itself?

Edited by Nykwil

yeah i ended up doing that...im wiring it straight to the powerswitch board itself but i'm encountering something wierd with my initial tests. Seperately, i can get the switch the power on my computer and when it's running i can get the LED to turn on...turns out the middle solder lead on the power button is shared by the msg led - and pw+ on my mobo while the 1st lead is the msg led+ and the 3rd lead is the pw minus. Seperately they work fine...but when i twist the msg led - and the pw+ wires and place it on the middle solder lead on the power switch it seems to go into a reset loop...I'm not sure maybe something is touching something it's not supposed to I need to solder it on and test it some more.

 

When i look on the other side of the powerswitch board...right under the LED is what appears to be a resistor....

 

What i'm thnking is is there some sort of circuitry that is splitting the signals to prevent it from putting it into a reset loop or something?

 

I'm thinking maybe it would stop reseting itself if i wired directly to the led itself?

 

i just wired straight from the buttons and the led, and then with an exacto knife i picked out and disconnected any of the leads (lighter green portion of the board surrounded by darker green) that goto either of them so they dont interuppt or use any of the other components on the frontpanel.

 

i beleive the resistor you are talking about is for the power button fade function when it goes to sleep.


Looks like you are making a nice job here! What motherboard tray did you use. Looks fairly similar to the Cooler Master tray that I used.

 

I used a Lian Li motherboard tray from Performance-PCs heres a link to it.. Link to motherboard tray

 

As for my updates (if anyone is interested) i finally got the system in, now i just need a modular PSU, clean up wiring, get some fans, and then start designing a liquid cooling system hah

 

Anyways.. here come the pics

 

DSC00143.jpg

DSC00144.jpg

DSC00145.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can someone give me a link or send me a PM with how to set up the front pins? my case didnt come with any and right now im usin buttons/lights i made to test boards.. Thanks in advance!!!

Edited by steven89

Some updated pics from one of my threads decided to just post it in here,

 

I was able to get my watercooling rig setup entirely inside the G5 case

 

 

 

 

 

 

170ci0.jpg

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Edited by Nykwil

Nice,

 

I am currently using a Quad core "Kentsfield" and getting temps maxing at around 34 degrees but this has been overclocked to 3.2 Gigs. Have you booted yet, I will be interested to see what temps you get on the processor. One thing you will want to watch on this Gigabyte motherboard is that if you remove the processor fan and heatsink & watercool as I did, the mosfets on the left & just below the CPU get pretty toasty as they are no longer cooled by the processor fan. In fact so much so that I have added a slot cooler aimed directly at them. Whilst they never gave any problems I did not want to cook the motherboard. I will try to get a picture up tomorrow when I bring my camera home from work.

 

Once again, a first class mod!


Nice,

 

I am currently using a Quad core "Kentsfield" and getting temps maxing at around 34 degrees but this has been overclocked to 3.2 Gigs. Have you booted yet, I will be interested to see what temps you get on the processor. One thing you will want to watch on this Gigabyte motherboard is that if you remove the processor fan and heatsink & watercool as I did, the mosfets on the left & just below the CPU get pretty toasty as they are no longer cooled by the processor fan. In fact so much so that I have added a slot cooler aimed directly at them. Whilst they never gave any problems I did not want to cook the motherboard. I will try to get a picture up tomorrow when I bring my camera home from work.

 

Once again, a first class mod!

 

I dont think the heatsink and mosfet will have a problem getting any air. My dual 120mm fans are pulling cool air from outside the case in and back out the back.

 

Granted none of my components are on and most likely the temps will change, but I dont think by about too much.


had to do this in Vista since I cant seem to find a temp monitor that works perfectly in OSX

 

Been running Orthos in Vista for 5hrs and 30 mins now @ a 3ghz overclock.

My idle temps are 31-32c

Stress temps top out at 44-45c avg.

I love how after being stressed my temps will drop back down to 32c instantly though.

 

I'm pretty happy to get it running at 3ghz...I could probably push it more if I upped my vcore and what not but I'm too lazy right now...this computer has already taken enough of my time :whistle:

Edited by Nykwil

took off the plastic on the case

 

added a ccfl that i only turn on when i need to look into the case...it's off otherwise

added a power and hdd status LED

 

 

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Edited by Nykwil

Looks great!!!!!!!! Are you using the front panel?

 

yeah the front panel works except for the power LED.

 

I just went ahead and bought 2x3mm leds and wired em up to the motherboard. On the front panel I use the USB port the most, but the firewire, headphone ports and power button all work.

 

I installed the HDD status led because..well frankly my hdd is so quiet I needed a better way to guage its status.

Edited by Nykwil

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