AudioGod's Aorus Z390 Master Patched DSDT EFI for Catalina Mini Guide and Discussion

[Squirrelf]

As a thank you for the help, and for other to use. Here is something pointless but fun.

 

Meant for 4K displays and to replace the Aorus boot logo. 

Here are 4 images I made to match the actual boot logo image almost pixel perfect size and placement. (images are tall because the Aorus logo is offset from vertical center)

The graphics card and monitor could also be factor that doesn't make it fit perfectly. I have an RX580, and 4K LG monitors, so if you have anything new from AMD, result should be the same.

 

Actual images are in the attached zip file.

 

Three requirement: 

- Must have Windows installed

- Bios must be set to "WHQL", otherwise image is stretched, just like the original Aorus logo (at least on the Aorus Ultra), but already that way in the guide, so you should be set

   Boot -> Windows 8/10 Features -> Win 8/10WHQL

- OpenCore config "UIScale" must be set to 02 instead of the default 01 if using an editor like ProperTree

   NVRAM -> Add -> 4D1EDE05-38C7-4A6A-9CC6-4BCCA8B38C14 -> UIScale)

   (if using a text editor then data value should be <data>Ag==</data>)

 

To do the actual replacement of the image, download the @BIOS utility from the official gigabyte page of your motherboard (Downloads -> utilities -> @BIOS)

(you also need to install the APP Center if you don't have it, from the same download page, used to change motherboard colors, and fan speed among other things in windows, so you might already have it) 

(once installed and running, in the utility the fifth tab, Face Wizard, is for boot image replacement, you can also back up the original logo)

 

I claim no responsibility if something goes wrong, but being an official gigabyte tool and I did the change at least 10 time to get it right, risks are very low.

If you don't feel confident about doing this, then don't do it.

 

cheers

 

images.zip

Edited April 7, 2020 by Squirrelf

[anannyo]

OK, so as I am gonna get Gigabyte Z390 Master or Designare for sure; I have decided to create the bootable macOS Catalina USB installer and I have done the following things so far:

1) I have downloaded the Catalina installer from App Store on my Mac and followed @glasgood's guide to create the bootable macOS Catalina USB installer

2) I have downloaded @AudioGod's latest EFI zip: Clover Z390 Master Navi Vega 19,1 EFI 060420.zip; mounted the hidden EFI partition on the macOS USB Installer using Clover Configurator; copied and pasted EFI folder into EFI partition of the macOS USB Installer. However, there were 2 hidden files in the EFI partition by default (as you can see in the attached screenshot) and I did not touch them.

3) I have changed the SMBios from iMac19,1 to iMacPro1,1 using the Clover Configurator and clicked RtVariables, generated new ROM ID and copied the Board Serial Number from SMBIOS and pasted it into MLB on preexisting config.plist in the @AudioGod's latest EFI folder.

4) I have deleted agdpmod=pikera from Boot Arguments as I am gonna use Radeon VII GPU and saved the config.plist and left everything as it was setup. I have ejected the bootable macOS Catalina USB installer as I believe the installer is ready to install the MacOS Catalina on my new build? 

5) Next, I am gonna flash the Aorus Z390 Master (as I am 70% into getting it over Designare due to concern with availability) bios to revision F11c with the one contains in mb_bios_z390-aorus-master_f11c.zip.

6) Then I am gonna unlock the CFG using F11c MSR Unlocked Profile.zip and following the guideline "The Easy Way" made by @AudioGod.

7) I won't have to make any changes in BIOS settings except changing the Aperture Size to 512GB as the BIOS settings pre done and saved onto the F1 1c MSR Unlocked Profile.

8) By the way, I am gonna use Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB NVMe SSD. Will I need to update latest Samsung firmware?

 

I believe if I do everything right and if everything I mentioned above are right; rest are pretty simple and straight forward with running the installation and making the internal drive bootable. Please let me know if I missed something and need to do anything else. Cheers!!

 

 

 

[AudioGod]

@anannyo yep your on the right road and everything looks good to me, by the look of it your going to have a trouble free install as you have done your ground work well, well done

 

Do make sure you update the 970 plus to it’s latest firmware (that’s very important).

 

Good luck and let me know how you get on when you do it,

 

P.S. Great Choice of Motherboard

when you have it let me know and I will PM you a newer beta firmware for the board and MSR Unlock profile Togo with it.  

[anannyo]

4 minutes ago, AudioGod said:

@anannyo yep your on the right road and everything looks good to me, by the look of it your going to have a trouble free install as you have done your ground work well, well done

 

Do make sure you update the 970 plus to it’s latest firmware (that’s very important).

 

Good luck and let me know how you get on when you do it,

 

P.S. Great Choice of Motherboard

when you have it let me know and I will PM you a newer beta firmware for the board and MSR Unlock profile Togo with it.  

Awesome!! Really happy that all of the efforts so far are paying off!! Yep, gonna get Gigabyte Z390 Master definitely and will update the 970 plus to latest firmware. And yes, all the way yes to beta firmware for the board and MSR Unlock profile

[Squirrelf]

37 minutes ago, anannyo said:

OK, so as I am gonna get Gigabyte Z390 Master or Designare for sure; I have decided to create the bootable macOS Catalina USB installer and I have done the following things so far:

 

Just something to take into consideration in case you go with a hot processor (9900K) and use air-cooling, like the massive Noctua NH-D15 , the slot for the graphics card is closer to the CPU on the Designare, compared to the Master, so make sure you have clearance.

if you go water-cooling, or smaller heatsink then no issues whatsoever.

[anannyo]

14 hours ago, Squirrelf said:

 

Just something to take into consideration in case you go with a hot processor (9900K) and use air-cooling, like the massive Noctua NH-D15 , the slot for the graphics card is closer to the CPU on the Designare, compared to the Master, so make sure you have clearance.

if you go water-cooling, or smaller heatsink then no issues whatsoever.

Hey @Squirrelf, thank you so much for your feedback. I am gonna use Corsair H150i Pro Liquid Cooler for this build. On top of that, a CPU air-cooling fan is massive and powerful compared to GPU fans; so all the dust and hot air get pressed into graphics card fans and make it all jammed up easily on the long-run. That was one of the main consideration for choosing the Air Cooler

Edited April 8, 2020 by anannyo

[AudioGod]

8 minutes ago, anannyo said:

Hey @Squirrelf, thank you so much for your feedback. I am gonna use Corsair H150i Pro Liquid Cooler for this build. On top of that, a CPU air-cooling fan is massive and powerful compared to GPU fans; so all the dust and hot air get pressed into graphics card fans and make it all jammed up easily on the long-run. That was one of the main consideration for choosing the Air Cooler

If your gonna use a Corsair AIO then make sure you do not connect it to the internal usb header as it will break sleep. Lucky the usb connection has no use unless your using icue in windows.

[lygi]

yeah, I can confirm that Corsair is a pain in the a** with USB header connected. I set to static blue (from Win) and disconnected the cable. Since then it is working like a charm!

 

@AudioGod quick question - after a year of not working sleep  mode I decided to change my Wifi card (I suspect my PCIex board - not wifi car itself causing wakes) but question is - when the new card will arrive -  are internal USB's set to 255 or should I mess with them to avoid self-wakes?

Edited April 8, 2020 by lygi

[AudioGod]

9 minutes ago, lygi said:

yeah, I can confirm that Corsair is a pain in the a** with USB header connected. I set to static blue (from Win) and disconnected the cable. Since then it is working like a charm!

 

@AudioGod quick question - after a year of not working sleep  mode I decided to change my Wifi card (I suspect my PCIex board - not wifi car itself causing wakes) but question is - when the new card will arrive -  are internal USB's set to 255 or should I mess with them to avoid self-wakes?

 

did you ever try AirportBrcmFixup.kext to see if it fixes sleep?

The internal usb hub is already set at 255 in all my EFIs so no need to worry about anything like that.

 

what make and model is the problem card and what slot are you plugging it into on the board?

are you using any other PCIe lanes from anywhere?

Edited April 8, 2020 by AudioGod

[anannyo]

1 hour ago, AudioGod said:

If your gonna use a Corsair AIO then make sure you do not connect it to the internal usb header as it will break sleep. Lucky the usb connection has no use unless your using icue in windows.

 

22 minutes ago, eSaF said:

I don't know but Corsair AIO always seems problematic in a hack, had one (still got it) but installed a NZXT Krakken connected to an internal usb header, runs perfect. RGB controllable on Windows only but settings remain when switched over to OS X.

 

Thank you @AudioGod and @eSaF, I have crossed off Corsair AIO from my shopping list. What do you guys think about Thermaltake Floe DX RGB 360 TT Premium Edition? Basically I am looking for three fans model and NZXT kraken x62 is only one available from NZXT brand at the moment that I will be able to get fast. Please suggest the tested water cooling that you think will be painless for the Hackintosh build. Because I am gonna use only MacOS in my build, stopped using Windows long time ago

[AudioGod]

5 minutes ago, eSaF said:

Don't want to confuse or mislead anyone but some schools of thought say to Enable above '4G Decoding' in the BIOS to install and run OC so like a sheep I followed the herd and that is how my setup is on NDK OC. Don't know if it's correct but all seems to be well for the short space of time I've been using this fork of OC. Every single works as should - Wake/Sleep, iMsg/F-Time, Apple TV - Haven't tried Netflix in Safari so don't know on that score but if things remains as it is now, I'm happy.

 

Here is the piece I read - The definition of “Above 4G decoding” is to allow the user to enable or disable memory mapped I/O for a 64-bit PCIe device to 4GB or greater address space. Also Please enable this function when using multiple graphics cards. 

above 4G being enabled has been a requirement for my EFIs for a mighty long time now.

[AudioGod]

9 minutes ago, anannyo said:

 

 

Thank you @AudioGod and @eSaF, I have crossed off Corsair AIO from my shopping list. What do you guys think about Thermaltake Floe DX RGB 360 TT Premium Edition? Basically I am looking for three fans model and NZXT kraken x62 is only one available from NZXT brand at the moment that I will be able to get fast. Please suggest the tested water cooling that you think will be painless for the Hackintosh build. Because I am gonna use only MacOS in my build, stopped using Windows long time ago

 
Il be honest about AIOs 90% of them be it Corsair , Thermaltake or NZXT all come out of the same factory in China so they all work just as well as each other or within a nice close margin anyway so just go for one that is simple and doesn’t bork macOS. Corsair do a X series that’s the same aio minus any usb connection, Any NZXT will work. Thermaltake should work but there rgb hubs can by a pain in the behind.

 

stick to the H150i as it’s a good AIO and just don’t use the usb connection to the board apart from when you set its curves and colours in windows. Once you have done that disconnect it from usb and forget about it.

it will serve you well and Corsair have a great warranty service.

Edited April 8, 2020 by AudioGod

[anannyo]

15 minutes ago, AudioGod said:

 
Il be honest about AIOs 90% of them be it Corsair , Thermaltake or NZXT all come out of the same factory in China so they all work just as well as each other or within a nice close margin anyway so just go for one that is simple and doesn’t bork macOS. Corsair do a X series that’s the same aio minus any usb connection, Any NZXT will work. Thermaltake should work but there rgb hubs can by a pain in the behind.

 

Ok thanks @AudioGod, I will go for NZXT, be it NZXT kraken x73 or x63 or x62. I also don't want any component that will be pain in the behind or cause any headache

[AudioGod]

If your going to run macOS only and want rgb going on in your build in any form them keep it as simple as you can for example get rgb stuff that can be controlled without any software needed and that way your have no problems with macOS and still have the freedom to do anything you like rgb wise.

[anannyo]

1 minute ago, AudioGod said:

If your going to run macOS only and want rgb going on in your build in any form them keep it as simple as you can for example get rgb stuff that can be controlled without any software needed and that way your have no problems with macOS and still have the freedom to do anything you like rgb wise.

 

Truth, I don't care about RGB; I only care about best performance. But the stores have the good coolers in RGB form mostly; also the companies are making them in RGB form  

[AudioGod]

5 minutes ago, anannyo said:

 

Truth, I don't care about RGB; I only care about best performance. But the stores have the good coolers in RGB form mostly; also the companies are making them in RGB form  

that’s not correct, if you dig around your find non rgb versions of most coolers.

corsair do the X series that have no usb or rgb function and I think NZXT have a range too that’s minus the rgb or check EK aswell as they have a couple of aios now too.

Edited April 8, 2020 by AudioGod

[AudioGod]

@anannyo are you after a 360, 280 or 240mm AIO?

 

[anannyo]

1 minute ago, AudioGod said:

@anannyo are you after a 360, 280 or 240mm AIO?

 

 

@AudioGod, I am after a 360mm AIO; I assume bigger radiator and extra fans will give better cooling for the CPU  

[AudioGod]

6 minutes ago, anannyo said:

 

@AudioGod, I am after a 360mm AIO; I assume bigger radiator and extra fans will give better cooling for the CPU  

 
 

in that case I would consider these two.

I had the EK AIO on my test bench at my work just before we went into shut down and i was super impressed with it.

https://www.ekwb.com/solutions/all-in-one/
it’s not out yet but it’s about to release.

or something simple with no RGB that works.

https://uk.thermaltake.com/water-3-0-ultimate.html

 

NZXT Kraken X72

 

if I think of any others il add it to this post  

 

Edited April 8, 2020 by AudioGod

[AudioGod]

What am I thinking hold on...lol
@anannyoCoolerMaster MasterLiquid ML360R RGB (You can turn off the rgb or control it internally without using a usb header) I used to use one and loved it, just remembered now. If you look on my z390 pro thread there’s a pic of my build using one.  

I was able to maintain a 5.1ghz OC on my 9900k using it.

Great fans too, I still use 6 of them to this day on my custom loop.  

 

https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/cpu-liquid-coolers/masterliquid-ml360r-rgb/

Edited April 8, 2020 by AudioGod

[anannyo]

6 minutes ago, AudioGod said:

 
 

in that case I would consider these two.

I had the EK AIO on my test bench at my work just before we went into shut down and i was super impressed with it.

https://www.ekwb.com/solutions/all-in-one/
it’s not out yet but it’s about to release.

or something simple with no RGB that works.

https://uk.thermaltake.com/water-3-0-ultimate.html

 

if I think of any others il add it to this post  

 

 

OK thanks @AudioGod, I will go for the no RGB version AIO cooler; specifically which does not need to be connected to the internal usb header

[anannyo]

8 minutes ago, AudioGod said:

What am I thinking hold on...lol
@anannyoCoolerMaster MasterLiquid ML360R RGB (You can turn off the rgb or control it internally without using a usb header) I used to use one and loved it, just remembered now. If you look on my z390 pro thread there’s a pic of my build using one.  

I was able to maintain a 5.1ghz OC on my 9900k using it.

 

https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/cpu-liquid-coolers/masterliquid-ml360r-rgb/

 

@AudioGod, thank you!! I am gonna go for Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R RGB Liquid CPU Cooler; because it is available and easier to get  Plus as you have already built with it and you said I don't need to connect it to internal USB header; I am definitely getting it  I am gonna turn off RGB for sure. The amount of time I spend in front of PC; those extra lights will drive me crazy  

[AudioGod]

11 minutes ago, anannyo said:

 

@AudioGod, thank you!! I am gonna go for Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R RGB Liquid CPU Cooler; because it is available and easier to get  Plus as you have already built with it and you said I don't need to connect it to internal USB header; I am definitely getting it  I am gonna turn off RGB for sure. The amount of time I spend in front of PC; those extra lights will drive me crazy  

good choice, everything connects to the motherboard and no hub is needed. The hub that comes with it is purely a argb controller and you can just not connect it up and that way your have no rgb. Nice and simple. 

[lygi]

1 hour ago, AudioGod said:

 

did you ever try AirportBrcmFixup.kext to see if it fixes sleep?

The internal usb hub is already set at 255 in all my EFIs so no need to worry about anything like that.

 

what make and model is the problem card and what slot are you plugging it into on the board?

are you using any other PCIe lanes from anywhere?

I tried literally EVERYTHING, kexts, different places on my board - literally nothing helped. Finally, I bought a genuine Apple card - and this also didn't help. Due to Covid madness I came back to it and found out - that many ppl having the same issue with Master/Pro MoBos and not working sleep mode. Long story short - I decided to take a hot and to try someone's else solution and try Fenvi card - for someone, this card together with Master MoBo works out of the box - lets see. My card attached. 

 

Wifi with unplugged BT cable work great and sleep works great. With connected cable, sleep is gone. I could use BT USB dongle (which I have) but this doesn't talk with my apple watch for some reason.

Also, I have had 2 mobos, first pro and now master - same issue on both boards. When I  compared wifi cards which are advertised as Hack friendly - they have way more electronics onboard - my card has literally nothing and only 2 cables (instead of four) going to USB header. New card will arrive on Saturday and we will see.

Edited April 8, 2020 by lygi

[AudioGod]

30 minutes ago, lygi said:

I tried literally EVERYTHING, kexts, different places on my board - literally nothing helped. Finally, I bought a genuine Apple card - and this also didn't help. Due to Covid madness I came back to it and found out - that many ppl having the same issue with Master/Pro MoBos and not working sleep mode. Long story short - I decided to take a hot and to try someone's else solution and try Fenvi card - for someone, this card together with Master MoBo works out of the box - lets see. My card attached. 

 

Wifi with unplugged BT cable work great and sleep works great. With connected cable, sleep is gone. I could use BT USB dongle (which I have) but this doesn't talk with my apple watch for some reason.

Also, I have had 2 mobos, first pro and now master - same issue on both boards. When I  compared wifi cards which are advertised as Hack friendly - they have way more electronics onboard - my card has literally nothing and only 2 cables (instead of four) going to USB header. New card will arrive on Saturday and we will see.

I personally can not stand the Fenvi cards. I think they are rubbish but that’s just my opinion..lol

I personally use a ABWB BCM943602CS and have never had a spot of trouble with it.

i know the Fenvi T919 works but not without its own set of problems.
 

@lygi Side note - Your Apple Watch not unlocking has nothing to do with the Bluetooth dongle and everything to do with the motherboard bios. I can fix that for you in a shake of a lambs tail by sending you a beta bios that corrects it.  

Edited April 8, 2020 by AudioGod