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G5 // Legacy

g5 mod modding powermac apple

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#21
Ira Aduro

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Thanks eep357, good idea about the usb header cables and yeah no doubt it's going to be a pain doing the 24 pin connectors. I'm planning on doing this in a few phases. Phase one would be a fairly simple modification that requires little skill and would an experiment to see how close to the look of a vanilla G5 I can get. Phase 2 would be adding in the power column, mobo shield, sleeving wires, etc.

General question - Is Krylon Shortcuts Chrome Spray Paint still the best match to the G5's aluminum?

#22
eep357

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prob, I've tried using that stuff to make "chrome" and best I've ever been able to get is what looks like G5 Aluminum. The thinner in it causes fisheye's real easily tho.

using a matte clear over it would prob look nice.

#23
Ira Aduro

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Not much time to work on this over the weekend and this week starts the 5 week period where I'll be working 60+ hours so next month or so might see slow progress. I did get diamond dust cutoff wheels for the dremel!!

Only thing to show right now is an early prototype for "power column". Really need to think of a better name. Oh and did an apple inspired design for the Raspberry Pi case design competition over at bit-tech. That's all for now.

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#24
WhatTheTech

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Ira,

The krylon is about the best I could find when I was adding a custom HDD cage to my G5 a few years ago. The best solution is anodizing, next best would be a car shop that does custom painting, but if you're looking for it in a can, Krylon is pretty darn good.

P.s. "Power column" is looking really nice!

#25
Ira Aduro

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Ok, so guess I'll use the krylon stuff, hope it stays on well. With anodizing - I'd have to know what paint they used, right? If I understand anodizing you are just using an electric field to bond color pigments to metal.

So last night I had a CRAZY idea for anyone using a mATX board. Basically, use part of the original motherboard to hide wires behind. You would need to measure how much to cut off, but then you could attach the remaining part to the original standoffs and also attach the original divider. Shoot, if you are really clever you could figure out how to get the original fans to plug into the motherboard and get power (would have to redo the original motherboard connector to a new power source)This won't work for me because of how my PCIE slots are laid out.

One other thing - have you guys seen Sherrif's backplate layout? It's over on another hackintosh forum but the guy has made public a .dxf file that will let you cut out a perforated aluminum mesh that exactly matches the G5's. He even has it so you can reattach the original fans. I've asked permission to modify the file so we'll see what he says.

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#26
Ira Aduro

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Another small update, finalized idea for slot dvd holder. Using similar technique to what I'll be doing for the PSU. I'm using the bolts along the top of the case insides to support the holder which is basically just a piece of aluminum the DVD attaches to most likely via strong two sided tape as the DVD is extremely light. I can always add better support later if needed. Crude sketchups attached.

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#27
Ira Aduro

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Oh, if you are looking for rubber trim to go around holes and what not, the prices on these sites are pretty good.
http://www.mcmaster....molding/=lgluqp
http://www.bestbyte....egory_Code=CACM

#28
Ira Aduro

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Gentlemen. This is a wonderful development.

So, I took the template Sheriff made and tweaked it to fit the way I want my UD5H motherboard to fit in the G5. The dashed horizontal line is where I plan on cutting the case and the template so I don't have to mess with the PCIE slots and locking mechanism. But the general idea is you can use this template to cut out a new backplate that perfectly matches the holes of the original G5 while giving you an ATX compliant rear IO area. The original fans have been moved closer to the far side so if you want to use the original CPU shield you'll need to modify the plastic fan holder, but that should be fairly straight forward.

This is a rough sketch in that I don't know 100% sure the rear IO area should start where it does. It's hard to measure accurately with the ruler I have since I have to bend it while it is in the case. I'll print this out soon and see how it fits. Hopefully once I'm 99% sure the measurements are dead on I can find someone local to cut this out since I'll probably take a few revisions to get ti 100% right.

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#29
Ira Aduro

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Looks like the holes didn't show up in that attachment, I'll put a better version up later. In the meantime, started work on a modified version of the middle divider, keeping place for CPU front fans and adding places for a slide in HDD rack. Keeping the same armature that bends up and attaches to the case wall.

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#30
nickjf20

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Looking good!

Subbed

#31
Ira Aduro

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Thanks, and thanks for the sub.

Found a great use for all those DVD-RWs I never can really use! Check out what's keeping the front CPU inlet up.

Besides that did some more test fittings, trying to figure out where to put the HDs. Right behind the top shelf fan/speaker would be great for cooling them, however it is a bit tight and right next to the GPU (heat!) After all this fanegaling I'll probably end up back where I started with HDs in top compartment.

Hopefully in the next few days I'll have time to get some prototypes done and start test fitting.

btw - the last of hte photos attached, what in the world is that object?

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#32
WhatTheTech

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It's the PCI Card guide: http://www.ebay.com/...8-/390423211190

#33
Ira Aduro

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It almost perfectly fits a 2.5" drive between the guides. If only it had 5 guides instead of 4 I could use it for HDD mounting. :(


EDIT: I'll be getting some foam core tomorrow to start building prototype middle dividers and back plate.

#34
Ira Aduro

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Question - the late 2005 G5s has that "channel" for the wireless antenna. Anyone know how well that works? As in I was thinking about including that in the new rear plate template I'm making. Does the antenna need to be a certain length to pick up a strong signal?

Went to the art store today about bought a few sheets of Canson Art Board 16"x20". It is the perfect thickness and rigidity for concepting a middle divider or other parts. I will hold even a heavy PSU in place yet is fairly to cut.

#35
bonestonne

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Nothing wrong with putting the HDs next to the GPU. Think of your direction of airflow, and the space between the parts. The tail end of the GPU that will be next to the hard drives will be one of the coolest parts of the card.

The channel for the wireless antenna is more to keep it neat than anything else. I have seen even some late model G5's have problems with wireless connections, but I could never figure out why, and I don't have access to the machines anymore to find out. As far as cable length, I would go a minimum of 6 inches. An alternative is to have a small USB wireless adapter on the back of the motherboard. A whole lot easier than sorting out the internals.

#36
Ira Aduro

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Can that 6 inches be winding back and forth or does it need to be straight. I agree a USB adapter is easier, but I already have an apple airport card which I'd like to keep using. I can run tests before I place the back in.

#37
bonestonne

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Working in radio, I would say it should be straight, clear of obstructions, and not have interfering electronics in close proximity. That said, working in a computer shop, I would keep it straight for as long as you can, with the end of the antenna being outside the case, and shielded by plastic, not metal.

Think of a laptop, the antenna go around the LCD edges, which gives it straight lines, and is only surrounded by plastic generally, which gives it less insulation, and in turn, a better signal.

#38
WhatTheTech

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Definitely what bonestonne says. Now that I've taken apart both G5 editions, a Mac Pro, an iMac and several Apple laptops, I can definitely confirm that straight lines (or at least, the lack of loops) is the way they go.

I'm currently working on a monster bluetooth mod which I hope works - I'm hoping to make up for the lack of cable length by using a wifi adapter-style antenna...

#39
Ira Aduro

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You guys rock! I feel like I'm part of a mad scientist group concocting hair brain contraptions.

Ok one more question, if you have two antennas can the be 3" instead of one 6"?

Btw I found on ebay a mini PCI to USB adapter board. Opens up possibilities for WiFi and Bluetooth placement!

#40
WhatTheTech

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Btw I found on ebay a mini PCI to USB adapter board. Opens up possibilities for WiFi and Bluetooth placement!


This is similar to what I'm doing.
I'm going to connect this to this, wire in my Apple bluetooth module to the USB portion on the board and then use the large antenna. I saw something similar for a non-OSX HTPC build so that the person could control the computer via a bluetooth remote in a medium-sized hall for presentations. Apparently it had 100ft of range with no signal drop - I'll add the link when I find it.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: g5, mod, modding, powermac, apple

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