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Found 24 results

  1. Hello Guys! Up for grabs is my current system, less than 7 months old... all installed nicely in a 85% done G5 Case. Here are the Specs: Mobo: Asus P8P67-Pro (Rev 3.1) (Supports Ivy Bridge) CPU: Intel 2nd Gen Core i5-2300 Cooler: Stock Intel Cooler (Was surprised by the performance) Memory: 2 x 4GB 1333 MHz Ram (8GB Total) System Supports up to 32GB (4 x 8GB) GPU: ATI HD 5450 1GB (Fully Working, except on some outputs requires sleep/wake for output) HDD: Seagate 2TB 5900 RPM Sata 6Gb/s Audio: While the Onboard Audio DOES work, you cannot plug it in due to the back panel, so I have an Sound Blaster Audigy 2 Installed. Optical Drive: DVD Burner (Dont know Brand) Power Supply: DiabloTek 550 Watt PSU Modded into the PowerMac G5 PSU Casing Fans: Front CPU and PCI stock G5 fans wired at 5v to give a relatively quite and cool system. So that is the Specs... as far as the case mod goes, I have made no cuts except on the inside dividers to allow room for the ATX Mobo. Pretty much everything is done except for what is listed below: NOT DONE: Rear I/O Ports and Front Firewire (NOTE: I have made up a cable for the front power button, usb and head phone, although jack sense does not work) Case Condition: Case is not in New condition but it is in better condition than most I see... No major scratches, however there are slight signs of ware and on the top near the back there are two small indents where the HDD Standoff's where attempted to be removed (See Picture) Here are some pictures: Extra Stuff: I can also included upon Buyers Request the following: Extra G5 Parts: Fans, Screws, Unused Deviders... etc Original Hardware Boxes from NewEgg (Extra Shipping) Now, the question you have all been waiting for, what's the price? Well I have put over $1,200.00 into this rig when all is said and done, not to mention over a month and a half modding the case. The Price: THIS ITEM IS SOLD AND NO LONGER AVAILABLE $745.00 OBO Plus Shipping (Shipping will be whatever is cheapest at the time of purchase) If you have ANY questions please feel free to PM me! NOTE: Due to the Guidelines set forth by InsanelyMac and the EULA set forth by Apple, I will NOT be providing any OS with this build! However an 8GB Thumb Drive with tools and instructions to create a working Mountain Lion Install Disk and all necessary Kexts, DSDT's and Other Fixes WILL be included.
  2. http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649 I am selling my Hackintosh custom G5 modded Case this is a complete working computer, with the following. specifications CPU: i5-3450 3rd Gen. 3.10ghz (brand new condition) original box included Motherboards: GA-H67MA-USB3-B3 (brand new condition) original box included RAM: Gskill 8Gbs DDR3 1600 (New Old Stock) original box included PSU: XFX Pro 450watts Power Supply (New Condition) GPU: Intel HD Graphics 2500 (onboard) HDD: 250GB (Used Condition) DVD: original dvd burner out of G5 (this drive is IDE this motherboard only has sata so it will not work with computer, but is included) WiFi: wireless card adapter with genuine apple extreme WiFi, with supported airdrop 450MB/s (not included but i can include for a small sum) $60.00 Please let me know if interested in checkout G5 Modded Case (Like New Condition) G5 Modded Case The computer will come professionally packed with all specification components pre installed inside, and ready to use (operating system not included) complete computer, with front panel wired, and the fans (also original G5 fan's), plus specs described, very clean inside computer and out. The modifications for this case are completely unique, look at pictures for a more detailed view. please contact me if you are interest. pm me or email me at curt0012@gmail.com, if would like to talk on the phone just pm or email me & I will send you my cell #. I would sell this off Ebay for 840$ OBO no fee for me, so you can save $$ too! payment by paypal or credit card, I have "paypal here".
  3. I hope this is in the right forum. Hey guys, I just bought a G5 Powermac to make my first G5 mod with. However, before I get started I want to plan things out a bit and make it look as good as possible. To that end, is anyone aware of a to scale G5 Powermac 3D model that is free to use? I've found a few but they are part of paid sites and rather pricey. Second, anyone have a recommendation on what 3D program to use? I've been messing around with sketchup the free version.
  4. Hey all, before I ask my question I'll note that I know there are conversion cables for sale by people here. However I'd like to have USB 3 on the front and so I devised a way to do that but that leaves me without a working power button and led indicator. I noticed the power button, et al. has a three pin connector. I've been searching for a three pin to two pin adapter so I can just plug the power button into my gigabyte motherboard. I haven't had any luck. Is anyone aware of such a connector and would that 1) work 2) allow the led to function. Thanks in advance.
  5. I've been looking for a pristine PowerMac G5 case to mod myself. Does anyone have one available with a reasonable price?
  6. Up For grabs is an unmodified Late 2005 PowerMac G5 case with all fans and most dividers cables and other accessories. Also Included is an Early 2005 and Prior Front Panel Board to allow plug and play wiring with cables made here on the forums! Price: $60 OBO + Shipping (PLEASE: Submit Best Offers Via Personal Message... I will review your Offer and provide an answer within 5 Business days) Bought this as an extra parts case when I bought mine, Selling my other off now and I don't need this guy anymore. If you have any questions please let me know!
  7. I just bought a male to female USB 3 cord and I find the back USB ports are a perfect fit (maybe a bit loose but I can fix that), whereas the front USB port is too small. Is the front port a custom sized USB receptor or is there an adapter I can buy to go from standard to this slimmer profile? Thanks in advance for your advice.
  8. SpiderMonkey

    Newbie question...

    Hi there, Just joined the forum and loving the posts. So many different ideas.... Would anyone help with my query: Got a Power mac G5 with all the insides and would like to do a G5 case mod with it - gut it all out and fit with up-to-date motherboard, CPU, etc. Looks not important, functionality and price are. The problem is, as mentioned before, I am a complete newbie. Where do I start? Thanks in advance.
  9. I am stupid. Will a moderator please delete this topic?
  10. ashleyjamesuk

    Hackintosh - Yosemite Install Help!

    My Current Specs: Board: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI CPU: Intel i3 3.60ghz Memory: 8gb Corsair Vengeance DDR3 HDD: Samsung 850 PRO 128GB SSD PSU: 650w Now its time for the story....... Okay so I installed Yosemite on to a USB via Windows (As I have a PowerPC G5) you can't download ##### & ##### as its not a Intel based system. (SUCKS!) I format the USB as required then installed the All In One via Windows, all went well. I then inserted the USB in to the Newly built hackintosh and I am presented with this screen: So I select "Boot Mac OS X From OSX Install USB" (Had me thinking this was going to work!) Then I was taken to this screen where it paused for a couple of minutes: (I have no idea what any of this means! But I thought hey...were getting somewhere here!) But then Suddenly!! This blooming STOP sign came up And I left the system running for a whole hour thinking It would sort itself out but NO ... so to my demise I really do ask for all of your assistance! Thank you so very much! Ash
  11. Come da titolo vendo case di un mac g5 modificato per inserirci un qualsiasi sistema con mobo atx. vendo causa passaggio a nuovo case, il case è fantastico, incluso nel case oltre al cavo del pannello frontale (link), il rack per contenere gli hard disk, e 2 ventole (una che soffia sugli hdd 120mm, 80mm che aspira accanto alla cpu ). spediizone a carico dell'acquirente, prezzo non trattabile, per qualsiasi info o foto non esitate a contattarmi, di seguito il link della modifica del case http://www.ceribbo.com/2013/06/powerpc-mac-g5-case-mod/ di seguito le foto: per qualsiasi info o altre foto non esitate a contattarmi. in vendita anche su altri canali. Prezzo: 150€
  12. So, I decided to finally put my hands on Powermac G5 case, and build my dream computer / cooling system. For years i was trying to find used case on our local cragilist-a-like website, and pretty much there was no super deals. And finally ! Few days ago, there it was, one ad got my attention, Powermac 7.3, with LCS, non functional ( LCS drained out all over the PPCs and PSU ), i was happy as hell , instantly got on my e-mail and started communication with seller, i was keeping my savings for situations like this Aaand in less than 36hours, here it is, DHL knocked on my door, yeeeeeeeeei LCS was of course malfunctioned, but no worries my friends! Pump is still functional... Great deal, considering only pump would cost me much more than i paid for delivery + item. So here it is, sweet little DDC guy As i was talking with seller about our deal, i worked on 3d sketch for my project in the same time, and here it is. Front Back Renders My dream is to build as quiet as possible, yet well cooled and re-usable case / cooling system that will fit to any motherboard / gpu / cpu configuration in future. So, what are these compartments inside of it ? Well, i had in mind to use only 3 fans to cool whole pc, and to achieve maximum airflow / cooling effect without any additional fans except these on water radiator. So in this build i will go with fanless PSU, 3 x 120 NoiseBlocker Bionic eLoop fans on pwm and i will try to make thermal zones, so fans can speed up individually if there is a problem with temperature arise in one of the compartments without need to speed up another 2 fans. Apple Powermac case is perfect for build like this, as his perforated front and back side are ideal for vertical radiator placement and it will enable me to do what i want. Also i think that build quality is well known, this thing is built like a tank * reserved * ----------------------------------------- HW * Other parts are still unknown * RAM: Avexir Core A Type PSU: Silverstone Nightjar 520 ----------------------------------------- LCS HW Laing DDC-VC pump Watercool HK CPU Rev. 3.0 LC Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X3 EK-CoolStream PE 360 3 * 120 mm radiator ( 19FPI double fin ) Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS Bionic loop EK-XTOP DDC - Acetal (Original CSQ) Alphacool tubing AlphaTube black Monsoon 13/10mm (ID 3/8" OD 1/2") white fittings IceModz cable managment - white, black and grey sleeve combination ----------------------------------------- I decided to pull out all things from it, and leave the rest for tomorrow, but Battlefield 4 servers were swarmed with children that day, so i decided to take a closer look on LCS pump, and to see if that machinery is still working. Ewwwww I had to clean that {censored} out What the heck? What kind of Laing pump is this ? Well, it is DDC-VC, model with volumetric compensator {censored} that got stuck inside pump, some debris, rust and who know what... I actually found something that was similar to pineapple chunks ( i don't want to know what that is xD ) Case is 90% cleaned out, I'am waiting for my Dremel tool to arrive to continue work on it ( old one wasn't in use for 6 years, and decided to die when i powered it on to do some cut-outs on that case ) And for the end of that night, random workplace pic, i was 50hours awake because of some other projects / work, and that was all for this night. Time to sleep Current status: * Waiting for Dremel tool delivery * Waiting for some cash to buy remaining LCS parts / HW parts * Waiting for sponsors to arrange parts sponsorships ( Don't worry, i have this project 100% covered by myself, but sponsorships are always welcome ) P.S. Sorry for grammar mistakes, English isn't my native language
  13. Salve a tutti ragazzi, volevo condividere con voi questo mio progetto di modifica del case di un mac g5, link al video link all'articolo spero vi piaccia
  14. Ira Aduro

    G5 // Legacy

    G5 // LEGACY // concept image // Introduction: Two months ago I had never heard of a G5 case being modded. Now here I am, attempting my own. I've read through about every mod on here and other sites so in some ways I feel like I'm just rehashing what's been done ad nauseum. Hopefully I can give back to the community with some new ideas. Also, this is going to be an "open source" project. What I mean is that any custom parts or cuts I make I will be providing schematics for anyone else to use. I don't know CAD but I know Adobe Illustrator and you can save CAD files from it. So, for example. I'll be designing a custom top shelf and PSU holder. Once those designs are finalized and I know they work/fit I'll be posting them here. At this point I have to thank: Bonestonne, Mr. D, eep357, and WhattheTech for their invaluable help and advice already. I'm going to attempt a few things with this mod: 1) Keep original IO ports 2) repurpose DVD bay by using a slot loading DVD above it 3) Keep a very similar layout to the original G5 but take ideas from the Mac Pro 4) Extremely clean inside and cable management 5) Perhaps a glowing false floor e.g. MurderMod 6) Reuse as much of the original parts as possible 7) Near silent operation 8) Relocate power plug from bottom to top 9) glowing trim like Tron. Though the painting part will come last. Perhaps will use glow in the dark paint, or EL strips. 10) Some custom holders for the PSU, a free standing easily removed motherboard tray, and upper shelf covers (similar to Mac Pro) Some problems: 1) starting Feb 15th I'm going to have very little free time for five weeks as I help the company I work for relocate 2) I really have no experience AT ALL cutting metal, wiring, etc, etc. I wasn't going to make a thread until I was nearly finished but I realized I'm going to have a lot of questions so I should ask people that would know So, let's dive in. The rear IO ports. I only would use the USB ports the rest I'll bring online as I need them and will be using the original receptacles kept in place. For the USB ports I've found these wonderful ports: Link to ebay product. The metal tabs on the outward face keep the port from being pushed into the G5 case and if you push up some of the metal tabs used to grab a USB device they will keep the port from being pulled out. I had it in and tested it and it worked perfectly but I forgot to take photos. Silly me. I did take a photo of my "solder your own USB 3.0 cable" test: In the end I'll probably make the back two USB ports 2.0 (just four wires to solder instead of nine). I'm making my own cables so I can bridge the gap between the motherboard IO ports and the G5 IO ports with a cable that is the perfect length. I'll heatshrink and then sleeve these. I'm also going to be covering the motherboard IO ports attractively because I hate how shiny metal they are. The DVD drive. So I bought a GA31N slot loading DVD drive from a Dell XPS 13. It's the exact same drive called "super drive" by Apple. Instead of having to make my own custom case for it (just to keep it looking good) I bought this cheap but effective thing: I'm still deciding final placement. Either at the top above the original DVD opening or sideways next to the front ports. Keeping the inside similar. Here's a test fitting (ignore the cardboard they are raising the motherboard up to the right level, still trying to nail down how high motherboard needs to be raised. Looking down: Under the hood (shield a little crooked due to this being a rough fit in) The bottom part of the case will have a false flooring where I'll have knick knacks like an LED consolidator and stuff. Thermal design: My most likely final design for airflow, thanks to many people who helped me with this but especially Bonestonne. Cable Management design: A simplified view of what cables and where. Red lines are power cables, green are data. Dashed lines mean cable is running behind object. Holder for PSU: So I figured out I can use the bolts that hold the inner shell of the G5 to the outer shell as part of a holder for the Power Supply. First a photo of the power supply, got a great deal on a x750 Seasonic fully modular. And here is a quick drawing of my idea, basically you unscrew the bolts and the metal fits between them and the top of the case with a small "lip on the forward facing side of the holder to keep it from sliding backward. The back facing part of the holder has two metal sections that attach to the PSU, holding it in place. In this drawing I have drawn the holder bending under the PSU but I've just realized I don't need that part so pretend it's not there. I realize this is a hard to understand sketch so I'll do a roughout in sketchup in a bit. Blending Mac Pro and G5: I mentioned wanting to blend Mac Pro and G5. I'm planning on taking the idea of covers for the top shelf from the Mac Pro and creating somethin similar for this G5 mod. So for example this: I have two 2 x 2.5" hotswap HD bays from Rosewill. Those would go behind the double slitted covers. I've been toying with the idea of removing the case around the two hotswap bays and building a custom backplate that would hold the sata and power connector and allow you to slide out two HDs per cover, like how the Mac Pro operates. An alternative placement for HDs would be cutting out a section of the false floor and storing them in there (they are thin enough to fit into the newly cut hole. I had mentioned in a previous thread about a power column that ran from top of the case to the bottom and hid all the power cables. That's it for now. Thanks for reading. Any thoughts or critiques you might have, I'm very interested in receiving them, everything right now is in a state of flexibility.
  15. As I am working through the planning and concepting part of my G5 build I decided liquid cooling is going to be the best way to go given my space constraints. I was wondering though, have any of you used liquid cooling in the G5 and if so what would you recommend? I thought it would be nice to remove the plastic backfan bracket and attach the radiator to the metal clip on part. Either that or cut out part of the G5 bottom to allow the radiator to draw in air. So, what do you guys recommend as far as liquid coolers and what would you recommend for placement? Thanks in advance! EDIT: When I'm asking for cooler recommendations I don't mean which one works best but more of which one fits in the case well. I can use google to find out the ups and downs of each kind.
  16. I have seen successful installation of El Capitan on z170x g7 with skylake but I cannot manage to setup final my hackintosh after fresh installation of El Capitan. My build: Gigabyte Z170X Gaming G1, Socket 1151 Bios F6 GTX Titan X 12 gb 64gb Geil Dragon Ram (16gbx4) i7-6700k 4.0 ghz Skylake 3TB Seagate Sata Accomplishments: Configured the bios to make El Capitan USB Installer bootable from scratch. Able to create bootable usb using Clover Patch kext but I don't know which ones are important and/or necessary Able to boot from the HD with El Capitan with usb Working Audio Working USB, 3.0 not checked Bluetooth works Problems: Display is showing but in lowest resolution (so slow) Wifi not working I have no proper DSDT, AML for my mobo. Don't know which set of kexts would be appropriate and necessary. Anyone, please help. Attachment of their dsdt and kexts for the same would be appreciated. I'm just an average user of hackintosh. Please give me a guide, thanks. Note: I have successfully installed El Capitan in my old build: Gigabyte EP35-DS3R, QuadCore 775 Intel 2.5ghz, 8gb ram, 80gb seagate, msi 9600gt with no problems and all are working.
  17. Hello guys, I just got a Power Mac G5 complete desktop and I would love to tear it down and install all new hardware and make the best hackintosh I could possibly create. I removed all the components and decided to keep the drive bay, bluetooth and wifi wires (maybe I'll toss them) and screws (why not!?) The only thing this case is missing is the side panel, its gone and was gone from when I found it, as well as the G5 heat sink cover (damnit!) Does anyone know where I could get a replacement cover or would I have to design and fabricate a cover from scratch? Any help is appreciated of course and I had no idea where to post this question considering all the main forums didn't quiet fit so I apologize in advanced.
  18. Here is my build in its current form. I absolutely love this project as it has grown! All hackintosh install instructions were found at Ryzen Clover Installation Guide macOS Sierra - AMD - InsanelyMac Forum First thing to know is that two of these systems were built at the same time. One for my buddy to use for his YouTube channel (See the video here for the twin system https://youtu.be/rRW4c1FnRrE), and mine. He called me up with an idea, to build a water-cooled Ryzen hackintosh inside of an old PowerMac G5 case, and as soon as he said the idea I was hooked. I have always loved the PowerMac G5 because when it came out, I liked to edit photos and it was what I thought at the time was "The Ultimate Machine". So here are some pictures of how it came about. I picked up two PowerMac G5s (both working mind you) in case I messed anything up on the first one. I did not so now I still have a working PowerMac G5. Lol. Starting off we have disassembly. Note that I don't have a lot of pictures of this progress as I have impulse control issues and wanted it apart ASAP. lol. This is a challenging computer to take apart but well worth doing as this case is amazing! The case I had was pretty beat up with scratches and stuff so I had to do a lot of sanding to get them out. After disassembly, I took to a small test fit by placing an old mother board in the case to figure out where to cut out for IO in the rear of the case. A quick sharpie line and some dremel time were in order after that. Following the IO I cut out the side panel for my piece of acrylic. Using the existing frame that holds on the door of the case, I marked 1/2" in from the inside edge of it and drilled holes in all the corners so they would be rounded. (remember that at this point you want to drill your holes with a 1/2" drill bit and make it so the outside of the bit matches up with your lines.) Then cut the acrylic sheet to fit the inside of the frame (not your cutout). From there you need to use a jigsaw to cut along your lines and connect your 4 holes that you drilled. Then on to paint. I sanded all the pieces with an orbital sander then used a can of primer and did 3 coats of primer on them all. Followed up with a few coats of black. I added a coat of clear to just try to keep it a little more durable but I should have just done more coats of black. To finish off the case, run some edge moulding around the side panel cut out and attach your acrylic sheet to the side panel with double sided tape. Re install your side panel frame and you are good to go! To mount the motherboard, I used the existing standoffs from the PowerMac G5 case (be careful here as there are two different heights of standoffs). Add in some JB weld on the base of them and a small coat around the outside of them it was ready to go. I used a GPU to line up where it goes in the case. Now for the final assembly. I test fit a bunch of different hardware placements but what I ended up settling on was the PSU at the bottom mounted with double sided foam tape. All of the cables were then run up the front side of the case along the motherboard mounting tray and grouped together using zip ties. It is also important to know at this point I bought a cable from Black CH mods to use the existing IO on the front of the case with an ATX motherboard. Radiator at the front with pump/res combo unit mounted to it using the EK uni bracket. I secured the radiator to the front with car grade double sided emblem tape. If you have ever used this stuff you know it is not going anywhere. I reused the existing hard drive cage from the case and secured it to the top also using emblem tape. One of the most important steps in this process is the running of tubes (since it is watercooled and all). There are only 4 tubes in this build thanks to the plethora of fittings I have in the case. I don't know if I listed them all but any time you do a hardline watercooled build it is important to have a handful of rotary 90s and dual rotary 90s on hand. I tried to do it without them in my last version of this build using the NZXT H440 and couldn't get my tubing runs to look like I wanted. Fill up the system, leak check, then hook up the power and you are good to go. I added in a RGB light strip and hooked it up to the ASUS aura sync header for a little bit more color. This process was a long time coming and took almost a month from idea phase to final assembly. I spent a long time without a working home PC but man was it worth it! Thanks for reading!
  19. Ira Aduro

    [How-To] Remove the DVD bezel on a G5

    Thanks to Baudouin for explaining this originally. Ok here is a photo guide and short tutorial [How-To] The pop-down DVD window is held in place by an aluminum shroud which is in turn held in place by four tabs. If you look at the first photo I have labeled the tabs 1-4. All of the tabs must be popped out of place if you want to remove the DVD window. The bottom tabs (1,3) have to be pushed in farther than the top tabs (2,4). I found it is better to loose one side and then the other. Once all four tabs are out you can slide the entire assembly out. Once out you can easily remove the aluminum shroud. Reinstalling the DVD window is as simple as following a reverse of the above listed proceedure.
  20. MightyMackinac

    [SELL] Five (5) G5 cases and parts

    I have for sale: 5 Power Mac G5 cases of varying quality. I will post pictures of all of them tomorrow. Some have parts, some are completely empty. All of them have the door. They are a little roughed up, scratches and scores on the casings. A couple dings and dents, here and there. You will understand once I get the photos up. I was thinking about USD $150, including shipping (more if you want the parts and such; those cost extra to ship as they weigh more), but I am willing to negotiate or trade. I will clean them up, scrub them down, make them sparkle again, and attempt to buff out any huge scratches or dents. Please let me know if you are interested so I can begin preparations for shipping and packaging, etc.
  21. kerimek

    My G5 Hackintosh

    Hi All, It's my first post on this forum, so greetings for all Few weeks ago, I've decided to do my first G5 PC Case mod, installing OS X (and Windows) on it. I'm something in the middle of the mod (my priority is to keep the inside look of the MacMod as close as the G5 was), and I wrote everything down on my blog site (its in Polish, but there are a lot of photos). I'm not sure if I can put a link in this post, so please enlighten me, if I can do this My target is: Intel i5 4670k (it'll be overclocked) (for now) GPU built in CPU (HD 4600) MOBO MSI B85M-G43 16GB RAM – Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600Mhz SSD Samsung EVO 850 250GB (System OS X) SSD Crucial MX100 240GB (System Windows 10) HDD WD Blue 2,5″ 750GB (Time machine, storage) PSU Thermaltake 530W Modular Here are some photos from stage 1 - dissassembly of the G5.
  22. -------------------------------- INTRO -------------------------------- So, you've come to your senses and decided that you want to use the stock G5 enclosure eh? Good for you Jokes aside, I think it's about the cleanest way to include your PSU in a G5 mod, and it really isn't as hard as you may think. All it takes is a little modding know-how, a little safety, a dash of luck, and you will have yourself a clean looking hack! This tutorial is also permanently available on the G5Modders Tutorial Page. IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: PSUs contain capacitors that can give you a nasty shock and possibly do some real damage. General safety tips would include leaving your psu unplugged for a few days, flipping the power button a few times after that to discharge any stored current, and touching the capacitors with an electronics-grade insulated screwdriver (link) to aid in discharge. I'm not responsible for any damage to person or equipment! There are a couple methods to this modification, two of which are discussed. The first option is to keep the PSU inside its original casing, cutting down the walls to fit inside the G5 enclosure. The benefits of this method are a stronger attachment for any modular plugs, as well as a flat surface for attaching the PSU to the enclosure. The down side is that you have to cut your ATX casing, not only adding difficulty but also making sure your warranty is totally shot. The second method is to remove the PSU from its original casing entirely to fit inside the G5 enclosure. The benefits of this method are an easier mod overall with no cutting, better airflow and (almost certainly) an easier fit. The only real caveat is that if you're using a modular PSU, the plugs will no longer be attached to anything solid barr custom fabrication. Each method has its pros and cons, but the great part is that each method leaves you with a clean-looking mod in the end. Take some time to weigh the above pros and cons, and choose which method is best for you! In case you're interested, the proper terminology for the G5 power supply is "TeslaConverter", but I find using this term produces blank looks from many-a G5 modder, so PSU enclosure it is! You will need: - Powermac G5 PSU Enclosure - An ATX power supply, modular preferred - A pair of metal cutters/a dremel/a jigsaw - A philips-head screwdriver - Soldering iron, solder, heatshrink (optional) -------------------------------- TUTORIAL -------------------------------- STEP 1: STRIPPING THE G5 PSU ENCLOSURE Here's the stock G5 psu in all its glory. There are eight screws that you will need to remove to gain access to the internals, I have marked them for your convenience: Two of the screws may be hidden by plastic moulding that surrounds the cables as they exit. They can be tricky to spot, but once you have removed them you can remove the top cover. As you can see, I have also marked the location of the screws that hold the internals down to the actual enclosure. This may vary a little depending your year of manufacture (and possible even your country of residence) but generally there are five that need to come out: Don't forget to unplug the fans from the PCB! If you are keeping the stock power socket (recommended) simply cut the three wires as close to the PCB as you can, you'll need some room to splice later! And here she is, ready for the transplant: --------------------------------------------- STEP 2: PREPPING THE ATX PSU CASE --------------------------------------------- Assuming you didn't electrocute yourself, let's move on. For this mod, I'm using the Corsair Modular CX430M and will be demonstrating the first method discussed in the introduction. Most of the information still applies to the other method! When choosing a power supply for the first two methods, just make sure that it uses a standard width fan on top, so that the internals are low enough to be put in the G5 case. Honestly if you can afford it, a modular power supply is really going to save you a lot of hassle in the long run. More than with a regular computer case, space is in high demand inside the enclosure! People have alleviated this lack of space by using an SFX-factor PSU. Despite still needing the cutting of or removal from its original casing, being a smaller form-factor it leaves you much more space to work with! Ready to void that warranty? Here you can see what I mean about the height of the heatsinks: It's a good idea at this point to do a dry run with everything inside the G5 case. This way you can see if everything is going to fit before you destroy a perfectly good PSU: If it looks like clearance isn't a problem, it's time to get modding! If, like me, you are cutting the PSU enclosure, it's time to get out your cutting tool of choice and begin to cut down the PSU walls. --------------------------------------------- STEP 4: FITTING THE ATX PSU --------------------------------------------- Important Note: Make sure that the bottom of the enclosure has insulation, otherwise you're going to make the whole thing explode! The plastic left over from removing the Apple internals will be just fine, but any insulation-grade plastic will do. If you have decided to remove the PSU entirely from it's original casing (method 2), at this point you should remove it from the casing and place it inside the G5 enclosure, fixing it either by using screws, or double-sided tape will also work. Here's a picture of Mr D.'s modification following this method. You can see a gallery of the full process here, or head on over to his worklog. If you're cutting the original casing, put the PSU back inside the G5 enclosure, and make sure your cuts are at the correct height. I had to file down a little bit because they were a hair too high. That wasn't so hard was it? For each method, put the top cover on to make sure that everything does actually fit, then do a little jig when it does: Finally, you're going to want to plan where you want your cables coming out of. I used two of the G5's original cuttings to bring out a custom power cable (left in grey) and the motherboard ATX connector (center), but had to enlarge the hole on the right some for the modular cables and ATX power cable to come out of. Aside from that there really wasn't a lot of extra cutting involved! Here is the final shot with all the necessary cables coming out: --------------------------------------------- STEP 5: SPLICING THE POWER CABLE --------------------------------------------- Your final step is to splice in a power cable so that you can use the stock socket on the back of the G5. For this, you will need your soldering iron and heatshrink/electrical tape. First, strip down the wires attached to the stock plug. I stripped about 3/4" on the neutral and hot wires: At this point, put your heatshrink over the wire and push it to one side so the soldering doesn't shrink it accidentally. Now, solder the corresponding wires from your cable to the power socket. Generally, they should match in color but check your country's standard colorization for electrical wiring, it may differ. The grounds are easy, simply twist them together and screw them back in to the stock mounting hole. For a more elegant solution, simply purchase an eyelet to match the one shown, although this isn't necessary. Finally, apply heat to your heatshrink to create a tight fit, and you're done!! You can now run your cable to wherever it needs to go to be plugged in to the ATX PSU. -------------------------------- CLOSING THOUGHTS -------------------------------- You're done! Honestly, this really isn't as hard as you might think. Sure you can get all fancy by mounting modular sockets to the enclosure itself, but when it really comes down to it the only thing you have to worry about is getting a nasty shock, which can be generally avoided by following the red precautionary text at the beginning on this tutorial. As I mentioned at the beginning, each method has its own pros and cons, but the overarching principle here is that you can create a very sleek mod with relative ease. Thanks for reading, I hope this tutorial helps someone in deciding what to do with the PSU in their G5 mod!
  23. Looking at the fitting for the plug on the G5, it looks like a careful cutting of it would let it be grafted from the bottom of the back to the top. Obviously some bondo would need to be used to get a smooth graft. Just curious if this has been done. I'm mulling it over and was looking for examples of others doing it (so I can learn from their experience) but was unable to find anything. Cheers.
  24. Hi guys, I've been lurking on the forums for a while and started slowly building my own g5 mod since the beginning of the year. I didn't want to spend a huge amount of time on it but still wanted it to be neat and functional and look good. I've reached the point where the pc is completely operational, however there are some issues I would like to address, and I would like to still improve on it. Just some back ground and thoughts. Here are some picks of the case once I got it: I initially wanted to mount a mATX mobo inside the case not touching the sides so that I could keep the external ports, but soon realised it would be better to mount it right on the extension card slots, since the back ports wouldn't be functional anyway. I did want to take out the internals of the PSU and replace it with my PSU internals, but I thought I would rather keep the PSU together for when I would ever need to replace or upgrade it in future. I play around a lot with hardware so I want everything to be replaceable. For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to remove the drive bays at the top, or the mounting pins on the back of the case, so I've left them in there. I created my own mounting plate which then goes on the existing mounting pins and then lines up to the extension port openings. I rewired the front panel and have everything working correctly except the firewire port. I bought a 4-port usb extension which is enough for me, and I will be using a wireless ethernet card to connect to the network. I broke my beloved ATI 4870 while moving hardware to and fro between my old case and the new one which was depressing, but it did give me incentive to upgrade. I got a budget 6850, which is suitable to my needs. Here is the mod as it is at the moment: The things I would like to improve upon are: - Would like the back sound ports working (currently using the front panel), though not entirely sure how to go about it. It would be nice to match them to the existing ports, but it doesn't seem possible without rewiring stuff to the old mobo (which might need to be the way to go) - The case gets very hot just below the cdrom, probably from the 3d card and lack of fans. I need fans at the front and the back of the case. Unfortunately due to the way the mobo is mounted I can't fit the existing back fans to the back of the case. I was thinking of using smaller fans? For the front fans I might just fit one of the old fans to a modified middle seperator. - Neaten up the wiring by fitting a cover over the old PSU case, however cutting a hole so that the existing PSU pops out. Unfortunately the 6850's power port points towards the outside which is a bit silly and I can't place the plastic air cover over everything. Otherwise the PC is completely functional at the moment. What do you guys think? Extra info about me and my pc: I'm from Cape Town, South Africa and I'm a software developer. My PC is a i5 2500, 8gb ram and 6850. It's not currently running OSX (My downstairs pc is running osx and I have a macbook air) but I plan to dual install OSX and windows 7 once I can afford a large SSD. (I play a lot of games, but do all my development on OSX, so I want to be able to switch between the two quickly, I may just leave it using only windows 7 and just do all my dev on my laptop, like I am currently)
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