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Everything posted by WhatTheTech

  1. WhatTheTech

    [worklog] Darkmac Pro

    RETIRED MEMBER - PLEASE GO TO HTTPS://GRADIVIS.COM/PROJECTS TO SEE THIS WORK LOG! The aim of this mod is to shake up the norm of aluminum-silver G5/Mac Pro mods by employing a darker theme for my Mac Pro. I want it to be clean and non-flashy, yet still have the gravitas to make people stop and take a second look. TO DO LIST This list is more for my personal benefit than anything, but will give you a good idea of what's to come! - Install custom front panel with USB 3.0 connectivity (waiting for part) - Install anodized DVD drive cage (waiting for part) - Install panel-mount 3.5mm female jacks on the back of the case (waiting for parts) - Possibly install panel-mount USB 3.0 ports with right-angle adapters (not sure if they will fit...) - Improve PSU airflow by drilling holes/removing side of enclosure - Install white LED light strip and inconspicuous power button for lighting (waiting for parts) - Possibly replace GPU and HDD LEDs with white one (kinda leery of messing around with my only GPU!) INTRO Well, despite having Project Gravitas on pause due to hardware issues, I couldn't turn down an eBay auction for a poorly-described Mac Pro chassis, that was listed without pictures and simply titled "Apple Case". On a whim, I decided to take a chance (they had listed one part number for a Mac Pro fan, so I figured it might be a Mac Pro) - $30 and no other bids later, I had a PERFECT Mac Pro show up on my doorstep. Ebay win: Despite being mostly empty, the case had only one small scratch on it, and the important parts like the front panel and shelf were included, so I had absolutely no reason to complain. Here's a quick and dirty shot right out of the shipping box: I knew that I wanted this mod to stand out. I'm always encouraged to see the sheer volume of G5/Mac Pro mods floating around various communities, and after being inspired by the Gunmetal G5 project from ToddFX on G5Modders (and contacting him to find out how much he paid for his anodizing), I decided to make some phone calls around town and see how much the cost of anodizing a Mac Pro would annoy my wife. She would undoubtedly (and not incorrectly) think that it was superfluous. Well, "superfluous" is not in the vocabulary of most modders, and I was delighted to hear back from "Anodizing Specialists" in Ohio that, yes, they would be interested in me coming down to talk things over. Delighted, I took a trip to the shop to talk with the VP of operations. Being an aluminum guy, I would like to think that he appreciated the hunk of his metal of choice almost as much as I do. Sitting in his office he pulled out some color samples, and I chose a dark gray. I had toyed around with black and even white, but this is to be my last computer case for a little while, and dark gray is my favorite color. After going over the case with magnets, he pointed out the parts that needed to be removed and told me to come on back when I had it disassembled. He very kindly gave me permission to photograph and document the process for informational purposes, which will be released in a forthcoming article on G5Modders.com, and of course will be included in this worklog. DISASSEMBLY Not having the same experience that I do with the G5, I decided to be overly-organized with my disassembly. Every part/area has its own bag, and in that goes any parts and related screws/fittings. It's annoying, but I'm sure I'll thank myself in the end! (Note: a lot of this full disassembly is applicable to the G5!) The awesome modular drive bays that I won't be using: This is perhaps the most intricate and difficult case that I have ever worked with, and that's including old server towers from the 90's! With this more than any other case, TOOLS ARE EVERYTHING. If you don't have the right tools, you're going to have a tough time doing things efficiently, and you'll probably end up cussing. (6mm socket) (T8 Kobalt Bit) Before picking up the tools above, I was close to giving up twice. "It's not worth it", I thought to myself on those occasions, "just do a regular mod". Once I buckled down and bought the tools, things were MUCH easier, if only slightly faster. Our patient: I'm going to hazard a guess that there are around 80 screws that you need to remove for full disassembly, although considering everything I had to take out, that could be an underestimate. The above screws are the biggest pain the neck. Being so close to the bottom of the case, regular screwdriver handles are simply too big to have space for your knuckles to turn, and of course Apple uses that blue loctite stuff on all of their screws, so pliers just don't cut it most of the time. Once I had removed all the screws (including the hidden ones…sigh) I carefully pulled apart the handles from the shell. Now I'm not sure if I did it correctly, but using some fabric in between the two parts, I pulled the handle assembly away from the shell, and slowly slid up out and over, taking care not to scratch anything! I don't have pictures of this step as it takes both hands, but I'm here to help if anyone needs guiding! Here's half the beast, looking like a car door in a gangster flick, riddled with bullet holes: Here's a close up of the pesky screws that I mentioned earlier. Four would be fine, but 8+ on each side is just a pain: After that, there were more screws to separate the two halves of the shell as well as some rivets that had to be drilled out, but that was relatively easy with much more space to work in! Still, look at these alternating rivets and security screws: Steve Jobs meant it when he said he didn't want people rooting around inside Apple products. Finally I removed anything that was not made of aluminum, including all I/O plastic and EMI shields, and several screws and a few other bits and bobs here and there. Pics to come of the thing totally apart! Hopefully I'm dropping this case off to be anodized in the next few days, so we won't have to wait too long for a pic update. I'll have some mod plans drawn up soon as well. Thanks for watching!
  2. WhatTheTech

    [worklog] Darkmac Pro

    YOU ARE A LIFESAVER!!! I lost a hard drive and only had a few of the photos from the pre-anodizing stage left! Thank you SO SO MUCH. I've been wanting to repost this project for years but didn't have the photos. For anyone finding this worklog, I will be re-hosting this project on my own site - you can find them here shortly: https://gradivis.com/projects
  3. Listen up - if anyone ever needs info on modding a G5 or Mac pro, I can send you what I still have (pictures, wiring diagrams, tutorials...whatever) if you shoot me an email -> info@gradivis.com


    Be kind to each other. 

  4. Does anyone know how to remove the G5/Mac Pro power button? I would prefer not to break it, so a non-destructive way would be top notch! I'm assuming that the metal ring is keeping it in place, but I'm trying to figure out how to remove it without breaking it. Feel free to take the image below and edit it to point out how!
  5. ...and says "do whatever you want with it" - it's VERY hard to stay in retirement. Hi to everyone who remembers me! For those who don't, I ran the short-lived G5Modders.com website as well as the soon-to-be-relaunched MacModders.com site! I have backups of the Ultimate G5 Modding thread as well as various other tutorials, guides, builds and whatnot that will be put back online - it's awesome to see people still modding away! With a 24" iMac and a 15" Macbook Pro from work for home use, as well as a last-gen Mac Pro with a 30" ACD at my desk at work, it was easy to go into a retirement. I had two computers at home, one at work - what else could I want? Well all that changed when we were clearing out some old junk (I work at a printing company) and came across an old dusty G5 in perfect condition besides a few minor scratches and labels stuck to it. After replacing the hard-drive and RAM...BLAM - up and running, well currently installing OS X Panther. I was told to keep it, since I'm pretty sure it doesn't run the Adobe CC 2014 suite... As much as I love that this is a fully-functional G5, for it to be useful for me, it's going to have to be gutted and replaced with a hackintosh. Besides, what's the fun of having a G5 case without ripping it open?? This will be a slow worklog - I have to pull all of my modding supplies out of storage, choose my parts, order one of TLH's fantastic trays... Nice to be back, looking forward to seeing some old faces!
  6. I am a photographer by trade (http://www.amoureuxphotography.com) and several people have now asked me about how I take my pictures. Now I will be the first to admit that my pictures for my hobby have less than a lot of effort put into them (I do this for part of my living, it quickly gets tiresome) but if you want some (relatively) quick tips on how to take decent pictures of your hack/rig – READ ON! Here's a quick mashup of some of my client pics so you get the idea of what I do: THE RULES 1) It’s very possible to take terrible photos with top notch gear. There is this false notion floating around, that having top-of-the-line gear is what makes a good photographer. Sure there are people like Chase Jarvis (.com) who tote around tens of thousands of dollars worth of gear to photoshoots, that he in turn gets paid hundreds of thousands for, but he and many others in the field all agree with one thing: good gear does not equal good pictures or good photographer. For example, the image on the right was taken with $4000 worth of gear, the image on the left a 7-year old DSLR I got off of craigslist for $150 with a faulty lens I paid $10 for at a local flea market (my second ever, low-budget wedding). If I may, I would say they are both decent images. 2) It’s all about the lighting. For weddings, I normally use a $2000+ (used) Canon 1Ds-MkII/5D, as well as an array of lenses that I rent, that are worth as much as my car. That said, even with all of this money invested in great gear, you can’t magically make a scene look good without real lighting. Here is a quick lighting scale (from best to worst): 1) Indirect, bright natural light (i.e. outside in the shade/inside with big windows) 2) Off-camera flash 3) Direct natural light (i.e. outside in the sun) 4) Ambient room light 5) Direct camera flash The problem is, most people stick with numbers 4 and 5, and then wonder why their pictures don’t turn out well. Nine times out of ten I prefer to shoot in indirect natural light, unless I am doing studio work, and then I will use off-camera flash for some creative lighting. If at all possible, find a big window with sunlight coming in, refracted by venetian blinds or some sheer curtains. This will ALWAYS give you the best photo possible for your gear. Failing that, try and find somewhere outside in the shade. If you have the gear, OFF-CAMERA flash can also be very effective, but if you have a flash on top of your camera (as most do) avoid it at all costs, it’s almost always awful. Below I have taken (almost) the same subject in the same place, at different times of day with different lighting. (Only levels received slight editing, saturation and clarity were not touched.) Here's another even stronger example. The first image was taken in my basement which has no windows, the second on my office desk next to a large window with very sheer lace drapes: Still don’t believe me? Watch this for more proof: http://vimeo.com/13081827 (Free pro tip: get married outdoors if possible under a big white marquee. You will thank me later.) 3) An older DSLR is the way to go! Megapixels mean very little…in fact, even though the more megapixels your camera has the better (in general) there are many downsides. Detail and quality are both affected with higher-megapixel cameras, especially when it comes to less than perfect lighting. So when looking for a camera, the difference between 12MP and 15MP is mostly a marketing tool, and will only be noticed when printing larger than 8″x12″…you probably won’t notice the difference on a computer screen. That said, what you really want to look for in a camera is creative control. For truly outstanding photographs, you want a camera with manual settings…preferable one with manual focus or the ability to choose your focal point. I honestly haven’t used the automatic setting on any of my cameras is about 4 years. My advice? Grab a used Canon Rebel XT/Xti/20D or a Nikon D40 and pick up a cheap 50mm 1.8 lens for it ($80 used). The “nifty fifty” as it is called will immediately improve your photos with what we call “bokeh”, or that cool blurry stuff in the background of nice photos. It is available cheaply for Nikon and Canon, as well as most other brands. The kit lens (usually a 18-55mm lens) can do great things with the right lighting too, and most of the time this will come with the camera. Some of my gear, all purchased used: 4) Get creative! Now that you have something to shoot, and something to shoot it with in a nicely lit location, you are ready to go! Now allow me to share a tip with you that was told to me when I first got into photography: DON’T BE AFRAID TO LOOK STUPID. Have you ever seen THAT photographer, laying down on the (muddy) ground or doing a circus-looking move on one leg while balancing the camera in one hand? More often than not, they might actually know what they are doing. Our brain is immediately drawn to viewing angles that we would not naturally view….a sense of intrigue is created with very little effort. If something is on the ground (like a PC case), then don’t take it from above! Get on your belly and find some interesting angles! If you have macro capabilities, GET UP CLOSE! Here's a couple of examples of how a lower angle can give a Powermac G5 and the Mac Mini more of a presence: 5) Use. A. Tripod. For anyone taking pictures of a computer case with lights, your are going to have to dim the surrounding light to get a really good picture. That means your camera will automatically (or if you followed my advice manually) be set to a slower shutter speed. Anything under 1/50th of a second becomes very difficult to keep sharp. A good general rule is to not shoot under your lens’ focal length (i.e. 1/50th of a second for a 50mm lens etc.) If you have LED fans or something, it’s time to purchase a cheap tripod. Heck you can even get a table-top tripod for $5 on eBay! 6) Don’t over-process. One of the biggest mistakes I see (and I have made) are over-processed, over-saturated pictures. This is a phenomenon of the digital age, and is something that even professional photographers feel the need to do. Unless you are specifically going for an effect (rarely necessary), DO NOT oversaturate your photos. Keep the colors realistic and pleasant, rather than overly-intense. Also, never EVER do selective desaturation (those black and white pictures with a red rose)…they are so kitschy it’s not even funny (or acceptable). And now for some short tips: 7) Take your shots somewhere other than underneath your desk. 8) Keep the background clean, focus should be on your subject, not the CD’s you keep on the floor. 9) Wire management MAKES a picture. Do it now! 10) Get the details. Brushed aluminum, shiny water-cooling parts and colored-sleeving all make for interesting pictures! 11) Setting up an infinity background (all white or some other color) is not hard, see http://www.diyphotography.net for ideas. Well that’s it for now – I am going to add pictures to this tutorial over the next few days to help illustrate my points, but I hope this at least will help some of you get a good basis on how to take good photographs! Please feel free to PM me with any questions, or for tips/constructive criticism!
  7. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- INTRO ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, I'm trying to build my new hackintosh on the MSI Z77MA-G45 board. I chose this board because (1) it can get up and running without a DSDT, (2) it has USB 3.0 that plays nicely with OSX and (3) the layout was everything I wanted in an mATX board. This is a worklog/request for help - I hate having a board that is poorly documented, so if you are thinking about buying/have already bought this board, hopefully this may help. I am totally open to questions or suggestions - fire away below. This intro section will be updated if and when everything is working! KEY COMPONENTS: Motherboard: MSI Z77MA-G45 (BIOS v1.8) CPU: Intel G550 Celeron Dual Core (temporary) RAM: Patriot 2GB G2 DDR3 (temporary) GPU: Sapphire Radeon 5770 Vapor-X SSD: Mushkin Chronos 240GB HDD: WD Caviar Blue 500GB METHOD: Mountain Lion Retail Download myHack installer (latest) with generic Extra folder Chameleon v2.2 (updated) Lnx2Mac's Ethernet Driver Coderush's PMPatcher Utility (project link), (my methodology) toleda's ALC892 Patched Audio NOTES: - I could not use the patched 1.4 BIOS on biosrepo.wordpress - that version does not carry support for my incoming RAM NOT WORKING (YET): - Sleep ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- WORKING ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- USB 3.0 Seems to be working flawlessly, right from the get-go. As you can see, it is recognized in my Sys Profiler,and for a mechanical hard-drive, speeds seem to be accurate: The internal motherboard header is also working perfectly, at full speeds too! Maxed out my Sandisk Extreme Pro 90MB/s SD card via a USB 3.0 card reader. This is great news, as USB 3.0 was a non-negotiable when choosing my motherboard. Note: there's a small possibility that the "put hard disks to sleep" option in Energy Saver was dismounting my external drives when checked. They would immediately remount, and devices connected to standard USB were not affected, so I turned it off and will see if the issue is replicated. Just in case this helps anyone... FIXING ICLOUD Got iCloud working using RampageDev's tutorial found here. 1) Added ethernet built-in=yes to boot.plist 2) Went through Champlist process as instructed 3) Updated Chameleon to 2.2, with NVRAM as an option. Restarted twice. SUCCESS!!! That's all I needed to do, so a HUGE thank you to RampageDev!!! AUDIO - Downloaded ALC892 kext from osx86.net (link) - Installed using KextUtility - Not working, must investigate more. I ended up using toleda's patched version of the ALC892 driver and it worked immediately. The only very minor issue, is that the first sound coming through will crackle for about 5ms, and then go away. It won't persist, but if no sound is played for a minute, it will start again for the first 5ms. It's almost like sound is "waking up" and grumbling for a second. Like I said, minor annoyance as having on-board sound frees up a USB port for me which are currently in high-demand on my machine. SATA 6 Sata6 is working right out of the box I am pleased to report. In System Profiler is is reported as being a 6 gigabit connection, and everything feels pretty snappy. I ran some tests using BlackMagic Disk Speed Test, with the following results: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- WORKLOG/IN PROGRESS/NOT WORKING ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- SLEEP Sleep does not work. Screen turns off, becomes unresponsive. Once the screen dims for power saving, it will not wake up. To do: set power resume to S3 in BIOS To do: patch power management using CodeRush's patch Patched BIOS, set correct BIOS settings, still no sleep. To be continued... *UPDATE* Patched BIOS + SleepEnabler.kext Installed latest sleepenabler.kext Computer went to sleep just fine. Computer woke up by hitting key on keyboard. When it first awoke, mouse was responsive, but no cursor on the password box Finally mouse stopped responding, circular loading animation appeared, span ad nauseum. Still, it's a start. -> Rebooted without changes and tried again, just for kicks. Computer wouldn't sleep this time. PleaseSleep Has no effect (worked for my Intel board - worth a shot) There goes that start... Console readout: *UPDATE* Patched BIOS + custom DSDT RampageDev made a DSDT for me. Everything was working apart from sleep which was being held back by SBUS. Made some edits following his direction which fixed the warning in console but it still wouldn't sleep (and didn't give me a reason?!?!) Again, more work is needed here. *UPDATE* Patched BIOS + Darkwake=0 Issued sleep command but again computer wouldn't power down. Had to reset. Console readout: *UPDATE* Patched BIOS + Darkwake=0+sleepenabler.kext With sleepenabler.kext in S/L/E I issued the sleep command. This time the computer went to sleep. I couldn't wake it via USB, so I pressed the power button. The computer woke up, but was frozen. Waited three minutes, no dice. Console readout: *UPDATE* Patched BIOS + k3nny's edited DSDT Again SMBus is stopping sleep. I'm working on adding support for it to the DSDT and will update.
  8. WhatTheTech

    G5 Mod, is it worth it?

    Modding a G5 is definitely going to cost more than a regular PC case. Once you account for getting the case, the backplate, the front panel and various other bits and pieces, we're looking right around the figure you mentioned. I think the value though, of bringing this work of art back to life with new parts merits the extra cost. It's a fun project, challenging but very rewarding. If you want plug and play, a regular PC case is the way to go, If you want a case with the mac aesthetic, there are aluminum cases out there.
  9. WhatTheTech

    When your job hands you a G5...

    I'm currently pricing out my new build, as well as getting the Ultimate G5 Modding Resource thread back up and running! I know this was a huge help to many (with tens of thousands of visits) so I think it's about time to goes back up on the web ey? http://www.macmodders.com/the-ultimate-g5-modding-thread/ This will be the link once it's live. I've already done an anodized Mac Pro mod - I'm trying to figure out what else can be done...any suggestions on a cool mod I can do?
  10. WhatTheTech

    When your job hands you a G5...

    Hey man, good to see you around! Any current projects? Because those were the original disks that came with it! Also because it's kind of like stepping back in time - Panther was the first Apple OS I ever used on a regular basis
  11. I finally did it. I got an iMac. Let me explain. Since 2009, I have only had hackintosh desktops. Of course, I've also owned an iBook, MacBook, two MacBook Pros, three iPads, four iPods and three iPhones in that time, but as far as desktops go, I've always stuck with building hackintoshes. Obviously like many others, the performance/cost ratio has always been so appealing, but I also love to build and mod, so it was the perfect fit. Currently I have a dual-core hackintosh in a Mac Pro case, and it looks like a beast, but it's hard to move. I've had a couple of issues with it (sleep, USB weirdness, video weirdness) but nothing that was unfixable if I gave it the chance. I also have started giving photoshop lessons locally, and although I've had plenty of compliments (and conversations) about my Mac Pro hack, I HATE transporting it, along with my monitor and speakers (for video presentations). More recently, I have also had issues with my 5770 video card. Sometimes if I let my monitor(s) go to sleep, they would refuse to wake. The computer would still be on (I could hear emails and IMs coming in), but nothing I did would wake them up. Removing a video cable automatically would force them into sleep that they wouldn't wake from. I also felt as though it was time for a monitor upgrade - my 20" consumer-grade Acer has been faithful, but simply not that great for graphics work (what I spend most of my time doing). Finally, I had started to have USB issues. My keyboard and mouse would disconnect randomly. My Wacom tablet would behave erratically. I know it probably has something to do with the USB expansion bracket I'm using, but still irksome. So, I priced things out to see what I could upgrade: 24" IPS Monitor: $200 (for a half-decent one: link) New Graphics Card: $100-200 (depending on what I wanted to get, and this was keeping it cheap...) Then I jumped on eBay, and noticed that Buy It Now 24" iMacs were going for around $550. Sure, they're older and only running Core 2 Duo's, but I find myself doing less and less video work, so I actually don't need the power. 90% of what I do is through a web browser, the other 5% is photoshop/Aperture, both of which run pretty well on a Core 2 Duo with enough RAM. Well, long story short I managed to win an auction for a like-new 24" iMac for $440 with free shipping! This is only a little bit more than I would have spent on my upgrades, and with an 240GB SSD and 6GB of RAM that I already own, this should be a pretty nice machine for the price! So what with the Mac Pro Hack? I will still be tinkering, upgrading and testing. Building hackintoshes is too much fun, but I can't help but be pretty excited about my new toy
  12. I have a 2008 24" iMac (LOVE it), but I'm having FireWire issues. 1) FireWire is recognized in Sys Profiler, so it's not a catastrophic failure. 2) When connected, I am getting power from the FireWire port. 3) Hard-Drives and Cameras are not recognized by the OS. Any suggestions? I have reset the PRAM and all that...but if anyone has any thoughts or has experienced similar, I would be very interested in hearing them! It's not a huge deal, but I do have a FireWire hard-drive and would love to free up one of my USB ports. Thanks in advance!
  13. Ok everyone, it's time to post your battlestations! I did an extensive search, and couldn't find a thread for this, so here we go. I'll get us started. This is a desk that I built out of some wood and some of that cheap-o white furniture you get at places like Target and Ikea. I needed a space to work on my computer, work ON computers, and finally have enough room to spread my arms out so they would stop hurting after hours in the office. Now YOU.
  14. WhatTheTech

    "Permanent" MAC Spoof?

    If he's only one of the network admins, there should be someone you can go to. Sabotaging someone at work is a serious offence, and any serious company would discipline or fire him. The good news? There's no way for him to set up a rule like this without leaving some sort of trace, and I wouldn't be surprised if this sort of thing was in plain sight. Grab his/your boss, another network admin, and have them take a look. Play it off as a "this is really strange" troubleshooting sort of issue at first, in case he actually didn't do anything wrong, but if they find a rule set up that blocks your mac address, that isn't something that happens by chance.
  15. WhatTheTech

    Permanently Banned From Tonymacx86

    Hyprocrisy on Tonymac's website? Unthinkable! (Sarcasm not at your expense - as with all of these stories, it's a shame that such a website, built upon theft, still exists.)
  16. Personally the design doesn't bother me - sure it looks a little bit like a trash can and it's black instead of the silver we all love, but I know tons of creative professionals who will be pleased at the space-saving design. I think getting rid of the DVD drive is a mistake - not a HUGE one, but enough to inconvenience users. I thought I was done with DVDs until I started editing video more - though many professionals share work in the cloud now, most CLIENTS are still going to want a DVD copy of the work they pay for. I still get funny looks when I hand over wedding photos to clients on a USB drive, let alone video work. Now if Apple offers a CHEAP DVD add-on (hell, it should be free) that could sit under the new Mac Pro and fit seamlessly, that's a little bit different, but looking at the bottom of the new MP I think it would destabilize it some. The hardware, on the other hand, seems to be aimed at maximizing profit over convenience. While this is in line with Apple's M.O., at least older MP have some level of user-based upgradeability. In regards to the thunderbolt complaints, we should keep in mind that it's still a very new technology (using the term "new" to indicate level of implementation, not in temporal terms). Even USB 3.0 cables and peripherals were considerably more expensive than they are now - as more people switch over the price will drop. No, it's not fun for those wanting to make the switch to TB now, but it's not exactly a phenomenon that is unique to Apple. Really it doesn't matter what I think - I'll be buying one of these in 2018 when they are cheap on the used market. Until then, it's hackintosh parts in an old Mac Pro case for me!
  17. WhatTheTech

    Text Formatting Woes

    I have found that the WYSIWYG editor can be very temperamental. Here are some issues that I encounter on a regular basis on multiple computers, and OSes. This doesn't happen all the time, and since I only use Chrome it MIGHT be browser-specific... In order of inconvenience: 1) When hitting backspace, my cursor will jump to the last formatted text (bold, hyperlink..anything really) and start deleting that. 2) Despite formatting looking good in the WYSIWYG, when posted font sizes will change without reason (example - in the editor all I did was hit bold on the bold parts, did not touch font or size) 3) Text directly before or after an image will change font size (example: scroll through "dis-assembly" taking note of font sizes) I swear this isn't user error, anyone else encounter any of these??
  18. This tutorial has been moved to the [HOW-TO]s subforum above. This thread is for the discussion of the above tutorial. If you have any comments to add to the tutorial, please do so here. THANK YOU!
  19. WhatTheTech

    [worklog] Darkmac Pro

    The sticker on the bottom was just held on by adhesive - a blunt knife or spudger should do the trick nicely. You are correct, the wifi antenna is housed in there. I took everything out and put a switch for the lights there - it's an easy process to get it cleared out, and it's a nice little space! Congrats on your craigslist score!! I've really enjoyed modding the Mac Pro - it presents some different challenges than the G5 but I think you have more options with it. Thanks for your kind words - I spend a LOT of time reviewing on Amazon so I'm only a little surprised you noticed my pics
  20. I had issues installing Ubuntu on the Macbook 5,1 (aluminum macbook - basically the Macbook Pro). Wireless drivers were a pain, trackpad was glitchy and various other minor issues. What flavor of linux do you usually use? It's not impossible, and there are many people enjoying linux installations on mac hardware, but it's not as simple as running the OS installer in many cases.
  21. WhatTheTech

    Firewire 800 Drive Not Recognized...

    Update - reset the PRAM and NVRAM, of course I wasn't expecting it to do much and it didn't. I was surprised at how easy WD was to deal with - they've definitely made some customer services changes recently. I told him about the issue and let him know the log error that was popping up - he didn't seem very surprised at all, in fact as soon as I mentioned the error he said he would RMA the drive. No "unplug the device", "use a different cable", just a straight up "I'll get you an RMA number right away". I'm still going to try it out on another mac first, but we'll see if it's the drive or not.
  22. Well, I just purchased a WD My Passport Studio Drive for my iMac. I wanted a Firewire drive to free up one of my USB ports on the iMac, so I chose this relatively inexpensive new 500GB drive. The issue: Well, when plugged in to the Firewire 800 port, the drive spins up, powers on, LED lights up and flashes as if it's being read (initially), but doesn't show up in either Disk Utility, Finder or System Information. The firewire port shows up in system profiler, and after running the hardware test it reported no errors. What I have tried: Plugging in with USB works, so at least the drive is known working. Performed WD's tests via USB, passed without issue. Tried a different cable, same issue. Tried resetting SMC, didn't fix it. I don't have another mac with FW800, otherwise I would try it on another computer, and I don't have another FW800 device to eliminate port issues on the drive itself. I might have a buddy with a FW800 port on his computer, so that might be an option, but for now I'm looking for other things I can do today to eliminate user error. Any thoughts much appreciated!
  23. WhatTheTech

    Firewire 800 Drive Not Recognized...

    Update - the following is showing up in console repeatedly: 4/11/13 11:31:44.000 AM kernel[0]: FireWire (OHCI) Lucent ID 5901 built-in: no valid selfIDs for more than 3 minutes after bus reset. Good news is it would seem I'm not the only one with the issue, and that FW800 is problematic for many people. Some have had success resetting PRAM so I'm going to try that now and see if it gets me anywhere... Edit - also found this before plugging in the drive this morning: Apr 6 08:32:13 localhost kernel[0]: FireWire (OHCI) Lucent ID 5901 built-in now active, GUID 001e52fffe5b94d0; max speed s800. Could be drive related...God I hope my FW800 port isn't messed up, I really would prefer an HDD on that than USB...
  24. WhatTheTech

    Chrome Causing KP?

    Well my iMac just KP'ed, kind of a surprise seeing as I wasn't doing anything other than trolling eBay for deals... I would appreciate any thoughts on this. I'm up to date with Chrome, and don't see anything else that could have caused it. Any input most welcome! Found this, but apart from Chrome not being up to date it seems that there is little insight: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4220808?start=0&tstart=0