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[Guide][Deprecated] Installing OS X 10.11.4-10.12.3 on Surface Book

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G'day guys,
I recently bought a Surface Book i5 256GB with dGPU, and I found that there's no tutorial about Hackintosh since it's released, so i am here to be the first (maybe) to try this out
 

This guide is not being recommended by its author, as the final performance is usually janky and unstable, most fundamental functions of your Surface will not work in Hackintosh, please always consider the consequence of proceeding, you also risk losing your data, again, please proceed with caution

 

******謝絕轉載謝謝配合******

******Please do not repost, thanks******

******転載禁止です。ご協力をお願いします。*******

This project is deprecated (and it was only meant for 10.11 - 10.12.3) due to hardware availability on my side, no support for future OSes will be provided by me personally and support on current OSes will be limited. Your contributions, testing and guides will be appreciated by the community.

 

video is up at

 


Disclaimer: everything is on yourself, please proceed with caution and care
Works
Keyboard & Trackpad (No Gestures)(Buggy, when you hold a key, pointer won't move),
SD card reader,
USB 3.0 ports,
Sound
PCIe SSD
Intel HD 520 Graphics works perfect on 10.11.4
DP Video output now works(don't close the lid, it lead to big problems)(after closing the lead with external monitor, when plug in the external monitor, it no longer recognize the internal display, you must unplug the monitor and reboot)
Long press power key brings up the power menu
Brightness
Lid

Doesn't work
NVidia dGPU
Touch Screen (Alex's driver won't work since it's now on HID Camplg ports, which is not open source)
Wireless (Wi-Fi & Bluetooth)
Volume rocker

Battery status

What Works for 10.12
Everything for 10.11 :-)

Bugs For 10.12.3 and below
Graphics is janky and unstable. and does not work natively, driver patch is needed

 

Graphics will not work on 10.12.4 as reported for the built-in display, please take notice and do not upgrade

First Step: Installing a Virtual Machine
You will need a VM in order to get the thumb drive ready, please install a VM or you can use a real Mac to do this, the installation is not very hard, but do need some times for downloads and other stuff.

  • Download VMWare Workstation Pro 12.0 Trial Version
  • Download VMWare Unlocker
  • Download Python Runtime
  • Modify Unlocker Bat file -- In the unlocker installer, there's a win-install.bat file that you can open by CMD, but don't open yet, we need to modify a path in the file, open the file using your favorite text editor, find unlocker.exe in the file, change it to unlocker.py
  • The previous step is redundant 
  • Follow the instruction on unlocker readme file
  • Go to a Apple Store, get a Install App from their computer and convert the BaseSytem.dmg to CDR, or you can just skip those steps to the making USB step
  • Use the converted CDR as install media in VMware
  • Installing OS X as normal

Second Step: Prepare to install
You need an actual Mac to make the install USB or using a VM, both methods are fine, I wouldn't say more about installing a VM on your devices, you can Google that yourself

  • You'll need to download the 10.11.x installing App from this link
  • For macOS 10.12 please go to this link to get the preview version
  • You need to open Disk Utility. Select the USB Drive and format it as Mac OS X Extended (Journal-ed), Name it whatever you want, as long as you can remember the name. Now, open the terminal, enter the following text, this will cost you around 4 minutes on a USB 3.0 device and 30 minutes on a USB 2.0 device, go get yourself some drinks
  • For 10.11
    sudo /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ El\ Capitan.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/PARTITION NAME --applicationpath "/Applicatons/Install OS X El Capitan.app" --nointeraction
  • The previous method won't work on 10.12 anymore, you will get a USB that is not booting, use the guide below
  • Download Clover from Clover Official Download Page
  • Install Clover by choosing "Install UEFI Version only, install to EFI partition, Install Themes, Driver64UEFI(unselect CsmVideoDxe-64)
  • After installing, you should see a Partition called EFI mounted, and it's your thumb drive
  • (Copy the EFI folder from Installing OS X to the EFI Partition) only do this if it didn't do atomically
  • DownloadSurfaceDriver.zip and follow the instruction in the ReadMe.txt to paste the files into your CLOVER folder

++++++++++Notice for 10.12 USB Creation++++++++++

The pervious way of making the 10.11 drive won't work anymore in 10.12, instead, after downloading the 10.12 install app, you'll need to follow the following steps

  1. Show hidden files by executing this command
    defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES
    
  2. Navigate to /Application/Install macOS Sierra/Contents/SharedSupport and mount InstallESD.dmg

  3. Open "Disk Utility", restore the USB drive with Basesystem.dmg (hidden) in the mounted DMG file.

  4. Copy /Packages in the mounted DMG file to the restored USB's /System/Installation. Delete the old link before proceeding to the copy.

  5. Copy basesystem.dmg and basesystem.chunklist to the root directory of your USB drive

Third Step: Installing OS X 10.11

Now, we can start installing 10.11, you should plug in an external keyboard, mouse, and your thumb drive, after you finish the booting process, you should see the welcome page, choose the language you prefer and proceed the installation
Go to Windows First, partition your drive for at least 50 GB if you want to keep using, because as I tried before, remapping disk after installing macOS or OS X is extremely HARD, don't try that unless it's necessary, you will risk the integrity of your data by doing that
Choose Disk Utility, choose your installing partition and click erase, format as OS X Extended (Journal-ed), then, exit Disk Utility and proceed the installation process, you might need to proceed the same process twice to get the full install, so if you didn't saw your OS X drive, please choose install again. (The installation will automatically continue.)

Or: Installing macOS 10.12

Please change ig-platform-id to 12345678 before installing the framebuffer kext.
Things getting a little bit tricky when you're trying to install 10.12 on Surface Book. Since there's still a little bit of problems with the NVMe driver, you will likely get a error message says: unable to unmount volume for repair
I am not sure if the error spreads largely, but, I experienced it every time I install the 10.12
The temporary workaround is that to use an external USB hard drive or a SD card, I don't recommend a USB thumb drive unless it's superfast.

 

  • Install 10.12 as normal to the external hard drive
  • apply all the combo updates to the external hard drive system
  • Use the recovery environment comes with the Installer (not the hard drive)
  • Open Disk Utilities and restore the whole USB hard drive to the macOS install drive
  • You can apply combo or delta updates as normal, but do not apply big updates that requires a standalone app download, backup and reinstall instead

Problems regarding 10.12 installing has been solved, please proceed as normal

 

 

The Final Process: Make your experience better

You don't have to patch the keyboard drivers for 10.12.1 and/or above
For 10.12, please install the kexts in 10.12 "install" folder located in the driver pack
Make the keyboard works (10.11 only)

  1. Navigate to InstallHD/System/Library/Extension
  2. Copy the IOUSBFamily Kext to your desktop or wherever you like
  3. Right click on it and choose show package content, go to /Contents/PlugIns
  4. Right click on IOUSBHIDDriver and choose show package content, go to /Contents
  5. Open Info.plist using software like: PlistEditor Pro, and xCode
  6. Navigate to IOKitPersonalities
  7. Copy Generic Keyboard and right click on IOKitPersonalities
  8. Select "Paste as a child"
  9. Expand Generic Keyboard 2
  10. change the value of bInterfaceProtocol to 0
  11. change the value of bInterfaceSubclass to 3
  12. change USBCompatibilityMatch to YES (doesn't have this on 10.11)
  13. save the file and open Kext Utilities
  14. Drag and Drop the kext in to it, enter password and after it finished reboot, then you should have a working keyboard

Install Clover to SSD

 

 

To install clover to ssd, you need the CLOVER PKG installer and remeber to update as a new version releases, it might contains bug fixes.

 

 

  1. Install clover as normal, install to your HACKINTOSH INSTALL DRIVE
  2. Use UEFI Boot Version, Install theme, and Driver, unselect CsmVideoDxe
  3. PUT THE SURFACE BOOT DRIVER INTO THE DIRECTORY
  4. Use BOOTICE x64 Version under windows, mount EFI under windows, Select UEFI tab, add a new boot entry navigate to EFI:\EFI\CLOVER\CLOVERX64.efi, name it clover bootloader (or whatever you like).
  5. Go to Surface UEFI, unselect Windows Boot Manager under Boot tab, select and drag CLOVER to the first position of the UEFI boot sequence,

 

NOTICE: DO NOT DELETE "INTERNAL" selection in UEFI setup, or your Surface WILL NOT BOOT (won't happen on newer BIOS)

 

 

By the way, according to the feedback, there has been some problems with the AppleHDA patch, please install AppleHDA298.kext to S/L/E directly using your kext installer instead of placing it under /CLOVER/kexts, also, please use sRGB as color profile to avoid any grahpics glitch in 10.11.

 

 

_____________________________________________________________________

 

You'll need a Wi-Fi dongle to get online or you can use USB Sharing on Android and iOS, don't know whether network sharing on Ubuntu Touch, Windows Phone and Blackberry will work

You'll also need a Bluetooth dongle to get BT working


 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks to
LonelyTV
MeuPRodrigo
maj1es2tic
Pike

and all of you

Edited by cydia2020
Clean up, wrong claim fix, et cetera

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Changelog

For now on, you can download the standalone update file here

Please remove the original file before processing

...(Don't remember)

...

...

Tuesday, 2016-08-16, Add new nvme driver

 

Sunday, 2016-08-21 0:04am AEST, Add brightness

 
Sunday, 2016-08-21 10.18pm AEST, Let DSDT recognize the keyboard battery by the original tablet battery
 

Thursday, 2016-08-25 10.11am AEST, Fixed the problem of no sound after sleep

confirmed useless sorry for the data you cost lol

 
Sunday, 2016-08-28 7.53pm, combine 10.11 and 10.12 config into 1 and add support for 10.12

10.12.zip

10.11.plist.zip

10.12.plist.zip

DSDT.zip

DSDT_BAT.zip

CodecCommander.kext.zip

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So what solved the NVMe issue for you?

There's a EFI Driver in the Clover ISO verison, i copied it to my clover folder, i don't know why it didn't install when i first installing clover :D

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There's a EFI Driver in the Clover ISO verison, i copied it to my clover folder, i don't know why it didn't install when i first installing clover :D

 

I'm glad that worked for you!  Unfortunately, that doesn't solve the problem for the SP4, but thanks for the info.

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I'm glad that worked for you!  Unfortunately, that doesn't solve the problem for the SP4, but thanks for the info.

My friend got an SP4 but his also works pretty well. You need to copy the NvmExpressDxe-64.efi to Drivers64UEFI then install the kext from http://www.macvidcards.com/nvme-driver1.html

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I'm glad that worked for you!  Unfortunately, that doesn't solve the problem for the SP4, but thanks for the info.

Oh, i know, you need this dsdt patch, it's from another SP4 Guide

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DSDT can be very specific to a particular machine, can you link the guide so I can see what patch was applied? Thanks!

Here's the post.http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/309890-guide-1011-el-capitan-on-the-surface-pro-4/

what exact kext or efi driver that makes internal card reader works ?????

I don't think that there's a driver make it works since it's on USB

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I don't think that there's a driver make OT works since it's on USB

mine is connected on internal usb3 too and it is realtek Chip how about yours i think it is realtek too

 

photo_2016_04_20_09_41_00.jpg

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mine is connected on internal usb3 too and it is realtek Chip how about yours i think it is realtek too

 

photo_2016_04_20_09_41_00.jpg

I dunno yet, I am gonna check that, I am working on NVidia driver now

mine is connected on internal usb3 too and it is realtek Chip how about yours i think it is realtek too

 

photo_2016_04_20_09_41_00.jpg

No, it shows Microsoft Corp, so I got a Microsoft Corp one, not realtek

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i have a surface book and will give it a try, are you dual booting ? 

Yeah, i am dual booting without problems, but NVMe driver seems have some probabilities, sometimes work but sometimes don't please don't break it, if you break it, it breaks forever 

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thanks for the information.. couple of questions.  How would you break the NVME driver also I assume the touchscreen not working ? 

The NVMe driver... I don't know exactly how, i detached and recadached then, when i reboot, it breaks. :( so, it might be the problem of detach in OS X\

​Because TPM, after disabling TPM, mine works again :lol: 

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Thanks, il lgive it a try later today.. With your instructions at some point can you partition the drive to give space for Mac to double boot ? I have done hakintosh before but I have not dualbooted.. hope you can help with this.  I have the core i7 varaint of surfacebook, how good is performance ?

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Thanks, il lgive it a try later today.. With your instructions at some point can you partition the drive to give space for Mac to double boot ? I have done hakintosh before but I have not dualbooted.. hope you can help with this. I have the core i7 varaint of surfacebook, how good is performance ?

I have 60G for Mac, and the rest is for Windows, the performance is pretty well, I'm going to patch the dsdt today see if it works.

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Thanks in part to this guide, I am now triple booting Windows / OS X / Ubuntu. I'm posting from OS X now.

Some comments:

- To repartition my drive I used Paragon Partition Manager 14 Free Edition

- I used EasyUEFI instead of BOOTICE

- Graphics artifacts mainly in the top menu bar after a few restarts, solved it by changing the color profile to the sRGB-IEC61966-2.1

- Annoyance: After installing VoodooHDA, headphone jack is seen as a microphone jack. Plug earphones in they become essentially microphones.

- Had an old 2008 pre-unibody macbook pro that I'm not using, a combination of Mac cloning and Rehabman's nullethernet.kext fixed my app store, iMessage. I can now take calls, send texts from my Surface Book (using my iPhone of course).... etc

- Annoyance: screen goes to sleep if I don't use it after a while. Changing power settings does not solve this. Thankfully though it has no issues waking up if I touch a key.

 

Would appreciate if people kept this thread alive by posting their experiences too. I will update if I come across any fixes for some of the issues remaining.

 

All in all, it is in a very usable state. I am happy with it. Thanks to this guide and the magic of triple boot, my Surface Book is now a lean mean software development machine. B)  (Computer Science student here)

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Thanks in part to this guide, I am now triple booting Windows / OS X / Ubuntu. I'm posting from OS X now.

Some comments:

- To repartition my drive I used Paragon Partition Manager 14 Free Edition

- I used EasyUEFI instead of BOOTICE

- Graphics artifacts mainly in the top menu bar after a few restarts, solved it by changing the color profile to the sRGB-IEC61966-2.1

- Annoyance: After installing VoodooHDA, headphone jack is seen as a microphone jack. Plug earphones in they become essentially microphones.

- Had an old 2008 pre-unibody macbook pro that I'm not using, a combination of Mac cloning and Rehabman's nullethernet.kext fixed my app store, iMessage. I can now take calls, send texts from my Surface Book (using my iPhone of course).... etc

- Annoyance: screen goes to sleep if I don't use it after a while. Changing power settings does not solve this. Thankfully though it has no issues waking up if I touch a key.

 

Would appreciate if people kept this thread alive by posting their experiences too. I will update if I come across any fixes for some of the issues remaining.

 

All in all, it is in a very usable state. I am happy with it. Thanks to this guide and the magic of triple boot, my Surface Book is now a lean mean software development machine. B)  (Computer Science student here)

Yeah, so the headphone jack will not actually work, I uninstalled the OS X but I am still using it on my surface pro 3 since Ubuntu mounting the HFS partition will actually mess the whole thing up, but i use Ubuntu as my main system so that dual boot Ubuntu with windows instead of triple boot will be better

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Mirone has a working AppleHDA patched for Surface Pro 4, it might work on Surface Book as well as they both have the same codec ID.

Confirmed to work:

Internal speaker

Headphone

Internal Mic

External Mic

Auto switch

 

How to install:

Remove VoodooHDA and AppleHDADisabler

Restore vanilla AppleHDA to /S/L/E if it was removed

Install AppleHDA_ALC298 to /S/L/E

Repair permission and rebuild cache

Set DSDT layout-id to 3 under HDEF (rename from HDAS) or Clover Config.plist

Add to Clover Config.plist under KextToPatch the following for AppleHDA binary

8419D411 -> 9802EC10

8508EC10 -> 00000000

8319D411 -> 00000000

SurfacePro4_ALC298.zip

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Hi Cydia have issues with the instructions... I crated a new partition in my surface book (60 gigs) I also created the USB drive with my mac, I am having problems with the second step,  I pressed win+x and did diskpart list volume, the volume I created was 1 did select volume 1 then assign, I don't get a new disk called system... Not sure what I am doing wrong.

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      Filled and sanded case.
       

      At first I did not want to paint them myself.
      So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks).
      They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts.
       
       

      The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint…
       
      I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach.
      So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...)
      What a fool I was.
      This took a week.
       
      First of all, I needed a cleanroom.
      So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden.
       

      Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time
       

      Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm.
       

      To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would  leave  marks on the fresh paint).
       

      I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before.
       

      Paint-Shed from the inside
       

      Hanging case before spray-painting
       

      Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time.
      All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats.
       

      After spray-painting it was time for drying
       

      The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in.
       
       
      The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result:
       
       

       

       

       

       
       

      The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4.
      The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards.
      Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link?
       

       

       

       
       
       
      The “Empty Ones”:
       
      This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin:
       

      Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet.
       

      An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards.
       

      Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans.
       

      A finished ”empty” mATX case
       

      You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones”
       
       
       
      I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones:
       
      Time for re-assembly:
       
       
       
      Fan-Bracket:
       

      The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case.
       

      I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand.
       

      The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable).
       

      The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans
      My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm
      They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects)
       

      Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing
       
       
       
      Front-Panel:
       
       

      The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable.
       

      Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing
       

      To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise.
       

      The case without any front-panel board or power-button.
       
      Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases.
      Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match.
       

      Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again.
      Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:
       

      Installation of the front-panel board.
       

      The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted.
       

      The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work.
      I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify.
      Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds.  For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings.
       

      Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector.
       

      Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability.
       
       
       
      DVD / Blu-Ray drive:
       
       

      Eject the disc tray with a  paper clip.
       

      Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture
       

      Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those)
       

      Standoffs installed
       

      Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done.
       
       
       
      PSU (Power Supply Unit):
       
       
      I thought a long time about the perfect PSU.
      I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability.
       

      The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable.
       
      How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU?
      I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing.
      So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound.
      Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.
       
      Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti.
       

      Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.
       

      Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints.
       
      The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension.
      The input-filter is still connected to the socket.
       

      The Apple power-cord.
       
       
      I found the perfect PSU.
      A 600W PSU by Supermicro.
       
      Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive.
      Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU.
       
      The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating.
      That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available.
      Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now)
       
      80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.
       

      All PSUs before they were put in
       

      It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing.
       

      The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord.
       

      Securing the PSU in place
       

      The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts.
      Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug.
      They also have a bigger input filter.
       

      Soldering the extension on.
       

      Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside
       

      PSU inside the original Apple-Housing
       

      All the cables come out near the back of the case.
       

      I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through.
       

      All PSUs are prepared
       

      The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester.
       
      These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal.
       
       
       
      PSU-Cables:
       
       
      - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)
      - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.
      - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)
      - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved
      - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector
      - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved
       

      Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)
       
      You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.
       

      The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)
       
       
       
      HDD-Caddy:
       

      The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone.
       

      Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore)
       

      ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place
       
       
       
      Finished ATX Barebones:
       
       

      Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord
       

      Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover
       

      Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management
       
       
       
      Watercooling (mATX Barebones):
       
       
      Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases.
       
      I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones:
       

      Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case.
       

      This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases
       

      To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top
       

      Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C
       

      Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop.
       

      The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment.
       
      The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+)
       

      Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out.
      You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure).
       
       
       
      Equipment:
       
       
      I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones
       

      Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables)
       
      All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover
       
      I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag.
       
       
       
      Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling:
       
       
      Here are some pictures of the internal layout:
      Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts.
       

      Finished mATX Barebone
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       
       
       
      Types of cases & Barebones:
       
       
      What I have right now:
       
      12 fully modded Barebones:
      6 - mATX - with watercooling
      6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit)
       
      12 “Empty Ones”
      - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel)
      - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel)
       
       
       
      The End:
       
       
      Thats it for now…
      What do you think?
      Was it worth it?
      What hardware would you put in?
      Please let me know…
      ;-)
       
       
      Yours, sincerely
      wise_rice
    • By moman2000
      Hi,
       
      I thought it would be nice that I would be the first here to give my experience with getting Mojave running and mostly working on my system.
       
      My specifications are as follows:
       
      iMac 14,2
       
      GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD5H / Intel Core i7-4770k @ 4.4GHz / 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600MHz
      MSI AMD Radeon HD 7870 2GB OC
      250GB SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND SSD / 120GB OCZ Agility 3 SSD
      1TB 5.4K HDD
       
      I used the config that @MaLd0n helped me with. Seriously, he is a legend. HERE is my Clover Config including everything I use for 10.13 High Sierra and 10.14 Mojave.
       
      Installation Procedure:
       
       
      Create bootable USB media with createinstallmedia - sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ 10.14\ Beta.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/"Insert Volume Name here"  ***** Remove quotation marks!!! 
       
      **"--Applicationpath" is now depreciated and should not be used when making a 10.14 Mojave USB. I do not know if this will change in upcoming releases.
       
      ** ConvertToAPFS is now depreciated and no longer works when installing 10.14 Mojave beta 1. Using the command "--converttoapfs NO" will not work if you use it with "createinstallmedia".
       
      Editing "minstallconfig.xml" within the "macOS Install Data" folder on the target partition chosen during installation to change "ConvertToAPFS" from "TRUE" to "FALSE" would also not disable APFS conversion.
       
      Installation ran through well, but it did restart just after installation began which seemed to have been caused by a crash, but it seemed like it was normal as this happened twice as I tried installing Mojave earlier and the same thing happened. Rebooting again into the installation on the target drive that was selected before described as "macOS Install"  and named "macOS 10.14" resumed installation.
       
      Everything from then on was easy and smooth. I set-up my iCloud and things as such and was brought to the desktop of macOS 10.14 Mojave!
       
       
      What does work:
       
      Graphics (Acceleration/Metal) // 4K video dropped 0 frames // Picture-in-Picture
      Mouse and Keyboard
      USB 3.0 -  Full 5 GBP/s - Only ports above HDMI Port and front I/O
      USB 3.0 under both Intel and Killer Ethernet ports function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Ethernet (only Intel NIC so far) Both NIC's work, Intel I217-V and Killer E2200
      iMessage
      Sleep and Wake
      Shutdown
      Restart
       
      Update #1:
       
      Temporary Fix: ***I have gotten audio to work after browsing Reddit, I stumbled across this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hackintosh/comments/8orn7w/mojave_files_needed/e05kkj9/
       
      Update #2:
       
      I have just found a kext for the on-board Killer E2200 NIC after searching with device and vendor ID's on this forum.
      https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/files/file/313-atherose2200ethernet/
       
      Update #3:
       
      Audio is now fully operational with new version 1.2.8 of AppleALC, from here: 
       
      What does NOT work:
       
      USB 3 under Intel I217-V NIC and Killer E2200 NIC Ethernet Ports // Only function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Audio Temporary fix in Update #1 above   Fixed in Update #3
      Killer E2200 NIC Fixed in Update #2 above
       
       
       
      This is the information I have been able to gather thus far whilst using Mojave.
       
      I hope this helps someone in getting Mojave running on their system.
       
      Regards,
      Mohamed
       
       
      CLOVER_moman2000 No SN.zip







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