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Lifehacker Guide with GA-EP45-UD3P Motherboard

scrambler_455

By scrambler_455,
in OSx86 10.6 (Snow Leopard)

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GA-EP45-UD3P / Core 2 Quad / 9800gtx Experience  

406 members have voted

  1. 1. Are you Booting SL

    • Stable - No Problems
      196
    • Stable - Minor Issues
      142
    • Unstable - Kernel Panics
      26
    • Not Booting
      46

2371 posts in this topic

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jbolted
jbolted
Posted
Posted
I don't consider it to be the end-all-be-all, but the BIOS is likely telling the truth.

The BIOS has NO idea how to step a proc down, and runs the system pretty hot. (always)

Let it sit in BIOS for a while and it'll be a nice indicator.

Consider yourself lucky that iStat says anything even remotely proper.

iStat, as many other utilities for Mac do, communicates with the SMC.

(A controller embedded on Mac mobos)

We use FakeSMC to try to read the PC syle sensors and relay data falsely to the OS.

(Which then iStat and other temp monitors display to end users.

 

If you're really worried, transcode some video with handbrake so you use all

procs, and as soon as you're done go into the BIOS and see what it looks like.

There's simply no way for us to do it from inside OSX reliably right now.

(Conversely you could install Windows and run handbrake then check it there. Mac OS won't run it hotter than max)

 

 

I did the test in handbrake as you suggested. Starting temps on screen were 61C, while it was compiling the video temp went up to 71C. The I also did what you suggested was go into BIOS then, it read 41C.

 

So either A: The CPU runs 20 degrees hotter under OSX86, or

B: The temperature reading is SAYING IT IS when actually it isn't :(

 

During the week, we get past these holidays & all the relatives visiting, I'll see if i can find a better heatsink. I don't like this cheap intel supplied HS & fan. Some people hear the click when attaching the HS, a lot have not heard the click in all the pushpins. I got the click in 2 pushpins & I undid and redid the pushpins. I dont want to remove the HS because I have no thermal compound at the moment. I'm gonna pick up a tube this week also. You would think for what Intel charges for CPU's that they would provide either a fool proof method of installing a vital part (cooling mechanism) or none at all.

 

I guess FWIW, staying at or below 72C is still in the safe range though, no?

 

So anyway aside from the varying temp readings making me carp my pants, the system is really stable. I can even power down/sleep/restart from my wireless keyboard. I do get open CL, I get the watery effect in dashboard. Audio works, so I am NOT complaining.

D-an-W
D-an-W
Posted
Posted

Progress!

 

From the kindly provided links, if I unplug the main monitor (DVI closest to MoBo) nothing changes BUT if I unplug the secondary monitor (DVI to VGA connector) both displays come back on and I can use the OS.

 

I am now going to reboot and try it with the secondary display left out...brb

 

 

EDIT: If I boot with just the main display connected via DVI, on wake from sleep I get the same original problem and if I unplug / replug that display nothing happens. If however I plug in the secondary display, my desktop is restored to the secondary display ONLY. If I then unplug / replug the main display the desktop moves to the main display and the secondary display acts as normal.

 

FYI:

 

Main Display = IIyama AS4612UT (19" LCD) connected by DVI to port closest to Motherboard

Second Display = Samsung LE40R74BDX (40" TV) connected by DVI > VGA adapter supplied with GFX card to second DVI port

 

 

I really hope this all makes sense!

MacTech84
MacTech84
Posted
Posted
The Mac daddy is back!

 

I have been playing on a spare drive also so if you want me to test anything let me know.

 

When you say common problem, do you mean from the other site or have you come across this one?

 

Common problem meaning the Sleep Issue some are experiencing. I never put mine to sleep so I have no problem...

 

 

I did the test in handbrake as you suggested. Starting temps on screen were 61C, while it was compiling the video temp went up to 71C. The I also did what you suggested was go into BIOS then, it read 41C.

 

So either A: The CPU runs 20 degrees hotter under OSX86, or

B: The temperature reading is SAYING IT IS when actually it isn't :P

 

During the week, we get past these holidays & all the relatives visiting, I'll see if i can find a better heatsink. I don't like this cheap intel supplied HS & fan. Some people hear the click when attaching the HS, a lot have not heard the click in all the pushpins. I got the click in 2 pushpins & I undid and redid the pushpins. I dont want to remove the HS because I have no thermal compound at the moment. I'm gonna pick up a tube this week also. You would think for what Intel charges for CPU's that they would provide either a fool proof method of installing a vital part (cooling mechanism) or none at all.

 

I guess FWIW, staying at or below 72C is still in the safe range though, no?

 

So anyway aside from the varying temp readings making me carp my pants, the system is really stable. I can even power down/sleep/restart from my wireless keyboard. I do get open CL, I get the watery effect in dashboard. Audio works, so I am NOT complaining.

 

The thing you need to understand with the temps is that they are not accurate since we have to use FakeSMC. Since this is a transitional layer in the hack, it does not report the temps correctly to iStats or any similar temp reporting app. I am going to test this weekend to see if the newer FakeSMC v2.5 corrects this as well as the updated bootloader. Also, it is always good to have a good cooler, but in recent years Intel's coolers have become surprisingly more efficient as a stock cooler. For the situation you have its not necessary to replace it, but you can if you like. From what I have been able to gather it seems there might be a rough 15 to 20 degree variation in what the BIOS picks up compared to the System at idle.

 

Progress!

 

From the kindly provided links, if I unplug the main monitor (DVI closest to MoBo) nothing changes BUT if I unplug the secondary monitor (DVI to VGA connector) both displays come back on and I can use the OS.

 

I am now going to reboot and try it with the secondary display left out...brb

 

 

EDIT: If I boot with just the main display connected via DVI, on wake from sleep I get the same original problem and if I unplug / replug that display nothing happens. If however I plug in the secondary display, my desktop is restored to the secondary display ONLY. If I then unplug / replug the main display the desktop moves to the main display and the secondary display acts as normal.

 

FYI:

 

Main Display = IIyama AS4612UT (19" LCD) connected by DVI to port closest to Motherboard

Second Display = Samsung LE40R74BDX (40" TV) connected by DVI > VGA adapter supplied with GFX card to second DVI port

 

 

I really hope this all makes sense!

 

Here is one thing to keep in mind why this problem occurs. Its a Hack, lol, of course, but while we have very stable running systems, auto detection of certain things might not work properly such as monitor recognition after wake. What happens is when you use an adaptor such as DVI -> VGA, the signals do have to get translated from one form to another. It is most likely because of this adaptor that the 2nd monitor does not come up. Similar to the problem we had with those trying to use the HDMI cable. There could be a problem with the auto detection after sleep, hence the problem, and possible need to update the FakeSMC and bootloader. Hopefully this fixes a few things for us...

D-an-W
D-an-W
Posted
Posted

Time zones have got the better of me now, it's midnight and I am knackered!

 

I can try anything you suggest tomorrow SB and I am still reading through Elliott's links to see how to try and incorporate those files into this hack build.

 

FakeSMC and Bootloader updates sound promising too!

jbolted
jbolted
Posted
Posted
Common problem meaning the Sleep Issue some are experiencing. I never put mine to sleep so I have no problem...

 

 

 

 

The thing you need to understand with the temps is that they are not accurate since we have to use FakeSMC. Since this is a transitional layer in the hack, it does not report the temps correctly to iStats or any similar temp reporting app. I am going to test this weekend to see if the newer FakeSMC v2.5 corrects this as well as the updated bootloader. Also, it is always good to have a good cooler, but in recent years Intel's coolers have become surprisingly more efficient as a stock cooler. For the situation you have its not necessary to replace it, but you can if you like. From what I have been able to gather it seems there might be a rough 15 to 20 degree variation in what the BIOS picks up compared to the System at idle.

 

Thanks SBMac. I'll hold off on the heatsink. I will be stuck to this thread like glue :D

jbolted
jbolted
Posted
Posted
I can not send a PM reply for another 3 minutes. I believe the conversation will take more time than I have available.

So I will post what I was going to say, Maybe another can help tonight? If you were planning on spending your time with it.

 

If the USB-HDD0 Corsair is on the top of the boot list.

BIOS Page.

 

Then it may be something with your USB not installing.

 

Make sure you read the notes in the margin. Some of the pages I did miss in my first attempt.

 

Adam's notes: Set Your Hard Disk Boot Priority This is a particularly important setting "when you're booting into the Snow Leopard installer on your thumb drive, make sure that your thumb drive (which should be inserted) is set as the top boot disk. If you decide to add the EFI bootloader to your hard drive after you complete the install, you'll want to set that hard drive as first in the boot priority.

 

EDIT: The USB - Is that the ISO image of the Snow Leopard CD? The ISO image is a self booting application. Something you mentioned about a download? If that is the case it may not allow the USB drive to boot.

 

EDIT #2: The Mac that you build the USB from needs to be an INTEL based mac. Referring to page 19, post 367 and 370. The PPC Macs have issues creating the USB.

 

EDIT #3: Post 423 on Page 22 - Your Hard Drive, is it more than 1 TB?

 

I was just backtracking a rereading the thread, as for EDIT #2.. The thumb drive I originally made with version 3 stell's installer was made using Retail Leopard on a PPC eMac 700Mhz G4 USB1. It took 4 hours to do the restore, but it did work with zero install problems.

jsw513
jsw513
Posted
Posted

My parts list is exactly how the lifehacker build suggests you buy. I bought everything on the list. My resolution was fine up until my 10.6.2 upgrade. My monitor is an Acer 20" 16:9 ratio. I updated w/ the v3 installer, pointed at my HD, and then ran the downloaded combo updater that I downloaded from Apple. After my update and reboot my resolution was off and I can't change it in system prefs b/c there is no other option.

 

 

What is your exact build? (parts that is, including what brand monitor) and how did you update to 10.6.2? How is your monitor plugged in as well...
jbolted
jbolted
Posted
Posted
My parts list is exactly how the lifehacker build suggests you buy. I bought everything on the list. My resolution was fine up until my 10.6.2 upgrade. My monitor is an Acer 20" 16:9 ratio. I updated w/ the v3 installer, pointed at my HD, and then ran the downloaded combo updater that I downloaded from Apple. After my update and reboot my resolution was off and I can't change it in system prefs b/c there is no other option.

 

 

Did you try the refresh rate in the monitor pref panel. Another thing you can try if you are using one monitor, try the other connector on the video card, if you didnt already.

MacTech84
MacTech84
Posted
Posted
My parts list is exactly how the lifehacker build suggests you buy. I bought everything on the list. My resolution was fine up until my 10.6.2 upgrade. My monitor is an Acer 20" 16:9 ratio. I updated w/ the v3 installer, pointed at my HD, and then ran the downloaded combo updater that I downloaded from Apple. After my update and reboot my resolution was off and I can't change it in system prefs b/c there is no other option.

 

Try this...

 

Boot from the flash drive you setup for the install, make sure this is set in BIOS to boot from the flash drive. Once you are booting, pause the bootloader, so you do not fully boot from the flash drive. Then select your primary install HD. When you come up in OS X, be sure to delete the Extras folder off of the primary drive, then re-install Stella's V3 installer. See if that corrects it for you...

jsw513
jsw513
Posted
Posted

where is this elusive extras folder i keep hearing about?

 

Try this...

 

Boot from the flash drive you setup for the install, make sure this is set in BIOS to boot from the flash drive. Once you are booting, pause the bootloader, so you do not fully boot from the flash drive. Then select your primary install HD. When you come up in OS X, be sure to delete the Extras folder off of the primary drive, then re-install Stella's V3 installer. See if that corrects it for you...

jsw513
jsw513
Posted
Posted

ahhh...you're amazing! It must've been my newbness that caused me to mess this up. For some reason i t hought I was supposed to install the v3 onto my HD w/ my SL installation. Thanks again! I couldn't have done it w/out you guys.

 

signed,

 

n00b

 

Double click the primary drive, you will see the folder that says Extra.
MacTech84
MacTech84
Posted
Posted
ahhh...you're amazing! It must've been my newbness that caused me to mess this up. For some reason i t hought I was supposed to install the v3 onto my HD w/ my SL installation. Thanks again! I couldn't have done it w/out you guys.

 

signed,

 

n00b

 

Its quite alright, but you are supposed to put the v3 installer on your primary drive. This way you do not have to boot from the USB drive constantly. Deleting the Extras folder on the drive lets you do a re-install of the software making sure its clean. Once that is done, change your BIOS to boot from the primary drive and you are set.

CoHPhasor
CoHPhasor
Posted
Posted
Progress!

 

From the kindly provided links, if I unplug the main monitor (DVI closest to MoBo) nothing changes BUT if I unplug the secondary monitor (DVI to VGA connector) both displays come back on and I can use the OS.

 

I am now going to reboot and try it with the secondary display left out...brb

 

 

EDIT: If I boot with just the main display connected via DVI, on wake from sleep I get the same original problem and if I unplug / replug that display nothing happens. If however I plug in the secondary display, my desktop is restored to the secondary display ONLY. If I then unplug / replug the main display the desktop moves to the main display and the secondary display acts as normal.

 

FYI:

 

Main Display = IIyama AS4612UT (19" LCD) connected by DVI to port closest to Motherboard

Second Display = Samsung LE40R74BDX (40" TV) connected by DVI > VGA adapter supplied with GFX card to second DVI port

 

 

I really hope this all makes sense!

 

So as SBMac has mentioned, sometimes specific monitors have problems with .6.2.

I for instance am someone who can't use HDMI, or I'll have a boot problem.

(Some CAN use HDMI though, go figure)

 

You mention that monitor 2 is able to trigger things into working.

I notice that you have a very genereic-sounding monitor as monitor 1.

Do us a favor and only boot with the Samsung once and see how it does.

D-an-W
D-an-W
Posted
Posted

Will do, just been shopping!

 

EDIT: Resumed from sleep perfectly with just the Samsung TV attached on the outer DVI connector (DVI>VGA adapter).

 

I can try connecting the other monitor via VGA too if I can find a lead somewhere but can the brains on here think of a way round this?

MacTech84
MacTech84
Posted
Posted
I am wondering if this graphics card will work. All the other hardware will be the same.

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...1-292-_-Product

 

Can't tell you if ATI will work or not as the installer we have is specifically for NVIDIA, you will most likely need to check another thread for that, but if you want a better card for just a bit more look at this one. And it will work right out of the box with what we are using, no special tweaks necessary...

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814125294

 

 

As it doesn't matter if I stuff this install I will attempt to install the files from the links posted this morning!

 

Ummm.... just curious here but what links are you referring to? Have not seen any here lately...

MacTech84
MacTech84
Posted
Posted
Any thoughts on the display revelation then SBMac?

 

The problem is with the Bootloader since it does auto-detection for the graphics card, when I try to update this, I will see if I can get the same problem to happen, and if its solved by the update, as well as any necessary steps for installing it.

CoHPhasor
CoHPhasor
Posted
Posted
Any thoughts on the display revelation then SBMac?

 

I had you do that to see what the folly was.

The next step, is yes, try VGA.

 

The relevance might be linked to what changed in OSX, but is likely

what SBMac is trying to address.

 

Try the Samsung with DVI:HDMI and see if it still works.

 

Eliminate the variables right?

 

PS, SBMac, the problem us HDMI'ers have is not likely caused by our method.

When Stell and I did a troubleshoot we used v1 and v3 both to test it.

 

Apple fixed a few things about their video drivers, and I think maybe broke a few others.

It is likely that they threw some Content Protection code in the mix as they should soon address Blu-Ray.

 

I had a problem with Autodesk Maya not being able to display shaders properly. (Among a few other things)

Updating to 10.6.2 resolved those issues, and it's likely they broke something too.

(Maya uses OpenGL, and even Mac users had this problem with Leopard)

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