zammykoo

If you don't have access to tools to cut the logic board off CLEAN, save yourself the headache and don't attempt this. There are many layers of conductive traces inside the board and it will cross if not done correctly. I know this because that's my photo

I have released the source artwork and BOM! Check the updated OP!

Hey guys, I have been obviously MIA for a while because of work, etc. But I wanted to chime in since I had no idea this thread was still getting hits! Glad to see that my project has been talked about I have gotten a few requests for the source design but haven't had the chance to respond. To those who wanted the files, let me know what files you need. I will gladly release them to you guys to further develop and distribute this piece of hardware. I'll dig up the vector design and also the BOM (if i can find it).

hi dolan, I do not use wireless so I am connected via ethernet cable. If anyone else knows and can help please chime in.

Update bump: see POST #1

Every usb cable is different in terms of wire colors.... I wouldn't be able to tell you what which is which. You would need to check the wires yourself with a multimeter.

I don't use FW800 so I didn't bother with it (I don't use FW400 either). The ethernet thing is also not resolved, I am currently just running a ethernet cord through the back hole and directly into my asus mobo. I was really busy at the time that I had to stop working on on the case. I figured I'll revisit it eventually, just not now. I'm not sure why my multimeter was not able to check for continuity on the ethernet jack. There must be some clear coating (or oxidation layer) that needs to be cleaned off, not sure. Most people solve the ethernet issue by desoldering it off and adding their own ethernet extension into its place.

In order to solder the wires to the cut-mobo you'll need to figure out which pins go with which. I have done a quick sketch of the pins seen here: http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php...t&p=1714891 (note that the usb + and - pins are swapped) And if you decide that the cut-mobo is the route you will take, you will find out that the ethernet jack and FW800 jack are the hardest to figure out (I was not able to determine the pins with my multimeter)

As far as cutting the mobo ports off, I used an angle grinder because it was quick and clean. It is probably overkill for cutting a pcb, but it worked for me. In my experience I first used a hacksaw but I ended up getting shorting in the traces because the cut lines were so jagged. But cleaning it off with a grinder helped a lot. Just make sure you draw the guide lines on the board before cutting.

Hey guys, sorry I haven't been very active on the forums due to work/obligations. I still get PM notifications via email so I saw your questions. First of all, very clean case Rob. I wish I had that model with the x3 rear usb ports. Anyway, as mentioned above, mounting a full ATX would be tougher than a microATX (like mine). I haven't tried test fitting one in my G5 so I don't know how tight of a fit for you, assuming you want no-cuts. The cool thing about using a mobo tray is that you don't necessarily have to mount the rear of the mobo to the back of the case. Like mine, it is inset, and I used my modified logicboard rear ports as the extension. Are you wishing to repurpose your logicboard as well? With some tools you can either hacksaw it off or grind the rear portion off and solder cables to it. I know you said you're not too skilled in handicraft work, but that's the best part about doing projects like these! To me, it's more about the learning process. If you get a good end product then great, if not then that's okay too. That's what DIY is all about. Although it would help to have a friend whose handy to help out. You're gonna have to do SOME handiwork regardless of cutting the case or not. If you have any specific questions on how to do things I'll try to follow up on them as soon as I can. -Tam

Looks like you are getting some serious exposure for your project, Benjamin http://www.engadget.com/2011/08/11/itableo...-a-giant-video/

I am very impressed by your craftsmanship! Amazing work. If you don't mind me asking what do you do for a living? I could only assume you play with CNC machines all day. (Something I wish I could do) I would love to have a huge iphone in the middle of my living room. Maybe as a coffee table

Did shifting the custom audio header connector to the center position fix it? I'm not sure what is causing the noise because from testing all of the units I did not encounter this. Is this an independent problem, or does it just happen when using the unit? If anything, it could be caused by signal interference.... you can try to fix this by shielding the unit with a metalic sheet. But be careful not to short anything out

dolan, did you check if the connectors were plugged in well? I also noticed this while doing testing, which I've found out that the new audio plugs and connectors may have a thin film of residue form manufacturing. If you plug the audio cables in and swivel them inside a couple times you should be able to wear off the residue and get your stereo signal. Let me know if this works for you.

Thanks for pointing that out! As I mentioned I drew that from memory. Can you post a picture of the audio wiring?