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G5 to ATX Front I/O Cables


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AlohaCab, just a quick update.

 

I received my cable in the post today - thankyou for the fast shipping and excellent service you are offering. I will test the cable over the weekend and report back.

 

Cheers

 

UPDATE:

 

I pulled apart my working G5 Hackintosh to install the cable I received from AlohaCab and after re-installing all the hardware - NOTHING. Checked all connections etc and eventually diagnosed a dead PSU (tester shows 5vsb as the only signal).

 

Will have to procure a replacement PSU before testing again - bummer :angel:

question for AlohaCab, which one of the single cables is the one for the power button?

is it the one with the mark on it?

 

thanks

 

Yes that is correct. If you search the thread you'll see where I mention that the white dot on the USB cable indicates +5V and the one on the single cable is the Power button.

 

AlohaCab

**IMPORTANT**

 

Can everyone please put their insanelymac member name in the notes of your paypal payment? It's hard syncing up who is paying for a cable.

 

Thanks,

AlohaCab

 

*UPDATE*

Next batch of 10 cables are made and shipping Monday. I really apologize for not getting them out last week after Christmas. I went out of town for the holidays and I'm back now and finishing up the 3rd batch.

Yes that is correct. If you search the thread you'll see where I mention that the white dot on the USB cable indicates +5V and the one on the single cable is the Power button.

 

AlohaCab

 

sweet

thanks for the reply Aloha

 

Have a good one

Hi AlohaCab

 

I have just emptied my purchased G5 case and any ready to start building. I'm a Noob an would like to purchase your cable as a good start to this project. Thanks to you and others for making modding the G5 possible. I will PM with order and payment. Just as soon as I figure out how to do that. Told ya I was a noob.

**SHIPPING UPDATE**

 

These cables were shipped:

iWire

tekm

k7_madmac

Tiger9974

Luizsky

 

Thanks,

AlohaCab

**SHIPPING UPDATE**

 

These cables were shipped:

striggell

musselman

 

Thanks,

AlohaCab

Just a small critique if I may...

 

The heat shrink at both ends of the cable isn't tight enough and comes lose very easily. Either the heat shrink itself is too big and it's shrunk size (1/2 the original) isn't small enough or it hasn't been heated up enough to gain a tight fit. I've confirmed this on all 3 of my cables.

 

It's not a biggie as they still work fine but you just have to be careful when pulling the cable under MB trays. For now I've just put a cable tie around both ends to keep them firm and in place.

Hmm...Ok. I think I'll add a Zip tie to the braid sleeve before I shrink wrap the ends. Thanks for the feedback!!!

 

AlohaCab

I have a question for the cables.

 

Everywhere there's a pinout, it only shows the positive for the power LED and power switch, no grounds. Then they say that only the positive is needed, as they share a ground with the USB and firewire connectors, so if those are plugged in properly, it will complete the circuit through those grounds, thus only needing the positive for the LED and power switch.

 

This seems straightforward, but I've hit something of a roadblock. I'm wiring mine up to be USB/switch/LED only, as I have no use for front panel firewire or front panel analog audio.

 

I've got the USB wired up properly, and the positives wired up for the switch and LED, but where on the 18-pin connector should I put the grounds for the switch and LED? I'm seeing firewire ground, firewire shield ground, usb ground, and usb shield ground. I remember reading that the switch goes to one and the LED to the other, but I don't remember which was which, and I don't remember whether I want the shield ground or the normal ground.

 

If anyone could give me a quick pointer, it'd be greatly appreciated. Apologies in advance if this is the wrong thread.

I have a question for the cables.

 

Everywhere there's a pinout, it only shows the positive for the power LED and power switch, no grounds. Then they say that only the positive is needed, as they share a ground with the USB and firewire connectors, so if those are plugged in properly, it will complete the circuit through those grounds, thus only needing the positive for the LED and power switch.

 

This seems straightforward, but I've hit something of a roadblock. I'm wiring mine up to be USB/switch/LED only, as I have no use for front panel firewire or front panel analog audio.

 

I've got the USB wired up properly, and the positives wired up for the switch and LED, but where on the 18-pin connector should I put the grounds for the switch and LED? I'm seeing firewire ground, firewire shield ground, usb ground, and usb shield ground. I remember reading that the switch goes to one and the LED to the other, but I don't remember which was which, and I don't remember whether I want the shield ground or the normal ground.

 

If anyone could give me a quick pointer, it'd be greatly appreciated. Apologies in advance if this is the wrong thread.

 

Check out the U Tube video link from the first post.

Check out the U Tube video link from the first post.

 

Thanks. I spent like an hour last night reading this section, and thought I heard it somewhere, but I forgot where.

 

So power button ground = firewire ground, and power LED ground = USB ground?

Followed the instructions. Power button is working fine, using firewire ground.

 

The LED didn't seem to be working at all. I wired the positive correctly, and the negative to the USB ground, but I didn't get any results. Should the LED ground go to the firewire ground or the USB ground? The video doesn't say. I had thought I recalled reading that they were the different grounds, but I'm not sure. One thing I noticed with my test mobo was that another power LED I had was working fine, then I plugged in the apple one and it didn't work, then I plugged in the original one that had been working, and it no longer worked. Guess I'm glad I tested it on an old mobo, rather than on the new one I want to buy.

 

USB pinouts are correct (every pin on the mobo header matches up to the corresponding pin on the USB connector), and devices plugged in get power, but aren't detected by windows. This is with an old mobo and a crappy flash drive, so I can't be sure that the header itself is even working.

 

Was wondering if anyone had any advice. I'm mostly just thrilled to have the power switch working, as that was my main priority. I don't use the USB much, and I can generally figure out whether or not my computer is on without the LED. This site has already been incredibly helpful with the pinout diagram.

Hi AlohaCab, I've finally installed the motherboard and am now connecting the cable you made however I don't think the USB plug of the cable has been done correctly. From my understanding there needs to be 5 strands going to it, however all 3 of my cables only have 4.

 

Also, you've put the blocker/spacer in the wrong port and none of the wires are actually marked with a white dot to indicate 5v?

 

Below are some pictures confirming this....

post-161908-1294458750_thumb.jpg

post-161908-1294458777_thumb.jpg

 

My motherboard looks like this:

post-161908-1294459111_thumb.jpg

 

Now with your plug, it's wired to connect to: usb1 5v, usb2 5v, usb2 d+, usb1 key (no pin). The blocking pin on the cable itself stops the plug from connecting as usb1 d- is in the way... I'm not sure how this usb plug could ever actually work?? I hope I'm missing something obvious and the cable is somehow right. If anyone could let me know if their usb plug is also wired like this?

 

Also, My audio on the motherboard looks like this:

post-161908-1294459341_thumb.jpg

 

Which pins should my audio cable actually plug onto and which way round?

 

Thanks in advance.

pokwer, it's certainly possible I made a cable incorrectly, but I do have a methodology that makes it almost impossible to do so.

 

I'm not questioning you, but it's possible you are looking at the wrong plug. The cable you have pictured is the audio cable (I don't use that on my motherboard, since I have no use for front audio jacks). The four wires would correspond to the Port1L, Port2R, Ground, and Sense2_Ret in your posted pictures.

 

The 5 pin connector is the usb cable. It only goes on HALF of the USB connector port on your USB mobo header. In your picture you would line up the cable with the white dot going to Power (+5V) in your picture. The rest is self-explanatory.

 

Again, you will only be using half of your USB mobo header connector. There is no polarizing plug on the USB only on the Audio and FW connectors.

 

I thought about switching the USB to a 10pin connector, but some people do have the ability to hook up the other side of the USB mobo connector and use external ports.

 

Hope that helps.

 

AlohaCab

 

Sorry, I meant Port2R and Port2L on the audio plug.

Today I finished making my own cable. Had all the parts lying around/bought at an earlier stage.

Bottom-line: IF AT ALL POSSIBLE GO BUY A CABLE FROM AlohaCab.

 

The Milli-Grid crimpconnectors are incredible small. Half the size of a crimp connector used for the normal connector housing in the mobo end. It is not impossible to make but even using a 4X loupe lamp, good needlepliers and a steady hand leaves a very time consuming task ahead.

YEP! That's the Audio Plug.

You're right, everything works now... Not sure what I was thinking when i thought the 5 pin single row would be audio. Thanks for clarifying and again for a well wired cable.

 

Probably wouldn't go astray including a small piece of paper explaining what each plug is for and what the white dot means so people don't need to look at past posts on this thread.

 

Thanks again for being so patient, love your work.

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