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Minihack - a slightly different G5 case mod.

G5 Power Supply mod Hot Swap Slot Load Kraken Lamptron FC10

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#21
MiniHack

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So I'm back from the inlaws where they have no internet access!

I have been thinking about the colour scheme and also the style of the side panels for this. Just thought I'd share my current thinking to see what you think of it.

I am replacing the outer case totally on this mod. So whatever it'll be a departure.

I have made a prototype new door which will keep the original door mechanism and also has an integral sliding panel for the hotswap access (in case I am too lazy to open the whole door!) and I'll share that photo on here later today.

I am though still thinking about the final look.

The latest idea is this:

Posted Image

This is shown without the side window of course.

The bottom and sides on this design follow the inner case outline, while the top extends up above the case and forms handles for hauling the case around. I am thinking 3mm polished aluminium as the material.

I sort of was thinking of those Airstream caravans and wanted a streamlined front section with a more square back. The vent area would be to provide some extra ventilation for the radiator fans at the top to directly draw cold air from and expel through the roof outlet.

Inner case I am still torn on with design detail - I am debating between going matt black with polished alloy detail (rad grill, backplate, front bay adapter and fan controller panel); white with black detail; white with polished alloy detail; G5 original colour with black or polished alloy detail......

#22
MiniHack

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So here are a few of the pictures of me rigging up a door mechanism.

What I wanted was to make a door with a sliding compartment.

I reckoned there was the possibility to do this because all the G5s have the inner plastic door which is 3mm thick and then the inner frame also has a 3mm thick recess in it and finally the outer door itself is of 3mm thick aluminium.

So I thought that if I measured right I should be able to make a 3mm inner part, and a 3mm outer part and then sandwich a moving shutter in between the inner and outer.

The prototype phase is tedious.

I started by taking the frame off of the original door and by measuring up the dimensions of the plastic airdeflector.

I then measured up where the holes were on the frame and did some first cuts in card, then offered that up to the mechanism, saw where some mistakes were and did a next prototype in clear acrylic.

I went from that to a bit of 3mm ply I had in the workshop and then finally to the prototype you see below.

Posted Image

The pic above shows: A clear inner piece with the three tabs sticking out the bottom (which go in the same slots as the original air deflector piece used) and this is connected at the moment by M3 screws that go through the metal frame and then connect with nuts on the outside of the door which at the moment is grey plastic. Trapped between the clear plastic and the grey plastic is a smaller piece of black plastic which can slide front to back in the 3mm depth of the door frame.

Posted Image

This pic shows (from the outside) the grey plastic piece which has a hole in it for accessing the hotswapper. Here, the black sliding perspex is slid back and contained in the right hand side out of sight.

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Pic above shows black shutter now closing off the access to the hotswapper.

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This one shows shutter open and the black of the perspex fills the Apple logo.


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....and half open.



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...and another look at the inside of the assembled door.

Naturally this needs a bit of refinement but you get the idea.

#23
shiftysamurai

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OOooooh. I dig it. So the rounded area will match up on the top, or am I just not imagining the final design correctly?

#24
MiniHack

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OOooooh. I dig it. So the rounded area will match up on the top, or am I just not imagining the final design correctly?


Thanks.

On the drawing the idea is the rounded part (i mean the very top of the drawing) comes above where the inner case top finishes and those 3 slotted bits - the ones in the single horizontal line at the top) will sort of be a design detail. However as they'll stick up, they will also be handles for moving this case around. That's only though if I go with getting them cut from 3mm aluminium....so it'll kind of sweep back from each side from the front to a slightly squared off back angle.

On the drawing the sets of horizontal slots will take the place of where I have the honeycomb pattern right now on my plastic prototype. Reason for the change is that I won't be able to get a honeycomb pattern cut from aluminium as the material would over heat but the slots should be okay.

Looking at how well the door latches hold things I reckon that on the door side it'll be a two piece outer. I mean that the door panel will actually have the handle detail at the top of it, and there will then be a fixed part that joins to the bottom of the inner case. On the non-opening side it'll just be one big panel. Hard to explain in words, but I'll put up some design drawings once I make them.

I'm also looking at what fixings to use as they'll have to be really nice to blend with all this stuff. Trouble is really good looking nuts and bolts seem to be really ridiculously expensive too...some of the stuff I like is about £8 a bolt! So I won't be using those......

#25
shiftysamurai

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It's definitely got a more industrial feel to it, while retaining (I think) the Apple styling and charm.

REALLY like it. Consider me subscribed.

#26
Mr.D.

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a door within the door... very cool idea.

as a side note - watcha doin with the apple and leaf you cut out?

#27
MiniHack

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a door within the door... very cool idea.

as a side note - watcha doin with the apple and leaf you cut out?


Don't know - do you have an idea????

#28
v3nom

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Haha, love it!
Please combine it with an old DVD drive engine and use the eject button to open the door! Or will you just slide it manually?

#29
Mr.D.

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yeah.. I gots an idear aight... send it to me!

actually, I need to talk with you about something along those lines... I'll pm you.

#30
Baudouin

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Don't know - do you have an idea????


You could light on an acrylic Apple logo, the same way the Macbook (Pro) does on the back of the cover. Connecting the wires to the Power Led and get both lights on when starting the Computer.

#31
MiniHack

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Case Fixings

One of the challenges in this mod is attaching panels internally and externally to the inner case of the G5. One of my latest favourite tools though is going to make this easier.

This is a tool for attaching Rivet Nuts or Rivnuts

Attached File  P1281476.JPG   64.22KB   10 downloads

Here are the rivet nuts - I bought 1000 of them.

Basically these ones are M3 internally threaded and open at each end.

Attached File  P1281475.JPG   141.56KB   8 downloads

This is the outer part of the Rivet Nut after attachment - it sits flush on the surface.
Attached File  P1281474.JPG   75.55KB   9 downloads

And here it is from the other side:

Attached File  P1281473.JPG   93.71KB   9 downloads

To use them you screw the rivnut onto the tool, put the head into your proper sized hole, squeeze the handles of the tool. Then unscrew the tool leaving the rivnut in place.

The rivetnut works by compressing on the "blind" side of the hole and grips the material around the perimeter of the hole. It leaves a "standoff" type shape.

There are a few good things about this as a fixing: 1 - you only need access to one side of the panel; 2. As it is threaded all the way through you can attach something by a screw to either OR both sides of the rivet nut; 3. It is made from aluminium (same material essentially as the G5 and is potentially I guess also capable of anodising); 4. They give a good solid no glue attachment; 5. The size I use fit perfectly in a 4.8 or 4.7mm hole and.....the inner case has those size holes; 6. As they are a screw fixing the parts can be separated (unlike using a normal rivet); 7. Any fool can use them.

If for instance you have that bent foot problem on your case and the lower captive nuts have popped on your G5 you could use these to provide a new captive thread on your inner case. And then you could drill and countersink holes in the outer case to use screws to help pull it back into line. Yes, it would be a visible repair, but with the right countersinking and screws would also look good....

For me I will use them to attach my door panels as well as to attach a motherboard tray in my custom G5 mod.

I also use them in G5 power supply case mods. to space the PCB from the case and to provide attachment points for PCI-e cards in IO brackets. They can also be used as secure standoffs for you to make home made motherboard trays from aluminium sheet.

#32
Baudouin

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...
This is a tool for attaching Rivet Nuts or Rivnuts

Attached File  P1281476.JPG   64.22KB   10 downloads

Here are the rivet nuts - I bought 1000 of them.

Basically these ones are M3 internally threaded and open at each end.

Attached File  P1281475.JPG   141.56KB   8 downloads

This is the outer part of the Rivet Nut after attachment - it sits flush on the surface.
Attached File  P1281474.JPG   75.55KB   9 downloads

And here it is from the other side:

Attached File  P1281473.JPG   93.71KB   9 downloads

To use them you screw the rivnut onto the tool, put the head into your proper sized hole, squeeze the handles of the tool. Then unscrew the tool leaving the rivnut in place.

The rivetnut works by compressing on the "blind" side of the hole and grips the material around the perimeter of the hole. It leaves a "standoff" type shape.
...
I also use them in G5 power supply case mods. to space the PCB from the case and to provide attachment points for PCI-e cards in IO brackets. They can also be used as secure standoffs for you to make home made motherboard trays from aluminium sheet.


Very very interesting !!! Better than the standard rivets tool. Thanks a lot for sharing this experience .

#33
Mr.D.

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stop showing my cool stuff that I now must have. that would've been handy for my PSU mod for sure.

#34
MiniHack

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stop showing my cool stuff that I now must have. that would've been handy for my PSU mod for sure.


Go on, buy one.... :dev:

It's cheaper than the fan controller.

and you'll find all sorts of stuff you can use it for...

#35
MiniHack

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I was complaining recently about the cost of just buying screws and bolts.

Just wanted to share for people in the UK a place that actually seems to sell this kind of thing at a sensible price: http://www.fixingsandfastenings.co.uk/ - and no I am not being paid to say this, but it is my new place for buying stuff from - is remarkably cheap for buying stuff from if you don't mind buying 100 or more at a time. I even bought a replacement multimeter from there for £5.23 (I don't need one but at that price I couldn't help myself).

I wasn't sure whether to buy button headed, allen key headed or recessed socket headed screws and whether black or zinc plated for my build. So I just bought all of them as I know I'll use them sometime. :)

Hope this link helps someone else.

#36
MiniHack

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Little update today.

Had some spare time so tackled the G5 power supply housing.

Posted Image

Opening up the original case shows just how filthy these things get inside and how dust kills computers (note to self - get some filters).

Posted Image

I am going to re-use the front connector - to re-use the original Mac front cable that runs from bottom to top. I want to do this because the original cable conveniently has two SATA power connectors (which will power all the drives in the hotswapper) and one Molex (for the fan controller). So I will be removing original long Molex connector from my ATX supply and grafting on the original G5 plug which is conveniently colour coded.

Posted Image

I'll also be re-using the original plug and housing for it so it is easiest to just clip that short now.

Posted Image

PCB for the G5 is then removed.

Posted Image

Washed out the interior - and found a load of old washers and stuff in there too - glad I didn't try and power on this supply.

Posted Image

Then I marked out the interior for where I will place the PCB from the ATX supply I am using. Goal here was to get the PCB placed in the box as close to the door side of the G5 as I could and also positioned so it would be in an area where my hotswapper will NOT be standing as I am thinking of cutting the top of the G5 box for ventilation so I want to leave that option open. Keeping it as close to the door side as I can also lets me see later if there will be room for a top fan that will not interfere with the ATX mobo when in place. All those decisions to come later when I see how things pan out.....

In deciding how to mount it I put it so that one of the existing standoffs for the PCB could be used and so I would just have to drill three holes for the remaining supports.

Another thing is to mount the heatsinks in line with the way air will flow, so that they will get air through them and will not block the flow.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Holes drilled and out came my trusty rivet nut tool which makes light work of putting in new fixings.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Note yet done with the PSU - TBC



#37
Baudouin

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I am going to re-use the front connector - to re-use the original Mac front cable that runs from bottom to top. I want to do this because the original cable conveniently has two SATA power connectors (which will power all the drives in the hotswapper) and one Molex (for the fan controller). So I will be removing original long Molex connector from my ATX supply and grafting on the original G5 plug which is conveniently colour coded.Posted Image

Yes man, I did reuse the original Mac front cable that runs from bottom to top to use the two SATA power connectors for my two HDD's and the one Molex for the DVD driver with an adapter molex-sata .

Holes drilled and out came my trusty rivet nut tool which makes light work of putting in new fixings.Posted ImagePosted Image

I love this tool and really will buy one.

#38
MiniHack

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I love this tool and really will buy one.


Yes, it is a seriously good thing to have - just drill a hole and make an almost instant standoff or captive nut! And you can buy tools off eBay like this without spending a lot.

#39
Mr.D.

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Looks llike you are doing the exact same thing I did with my PSU. I also reused the original G5 black sata power cables and Molex because it fit, it was original and did exactly what I wanted it to do. Again, I wish ida had that rivet nut tool then, or at least within driving distance to your place to borrow all your cool tools.

#40
Baudouin

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Yes, it is a seriously good thing to have - just drill a hole and make an almost instant standoff or captive nut! And you can buy tools off eBay like this without spending a lot.


I am following two of them on eBay, but I want first to compare the price with the shop next door. I will then buy one .

Is it not strange that the cheaper one seems bigger and solid ?

Posted Image http://www.befr.ebay...984.m1438.l2649



Posted Image

http://www.befr.ebay...84.m1438.l2649





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: G5, Power Supply mod, Hot Swap, Slot Load, Kraken, Lamptron FC10

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