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Found 22 results

  1. Zammykoo's G5 I/O Board had created a lot of buzz until he shifted focus to other projects. And now, since he has released his board design, I would like to continue to work on his legendary board that will enable a G5 mod without going through the hassle of cutting the case. My initial design will be based on zammy's released design so it will only work with G5 cases of early-2005. I might consider making late-2005 compatible boards if there is enough demand. What has changed: 1. Board is redrawn in a CAD software 2. Manufacturer obsolete parts are replaced with parts still in production. 3. Excess empty space is trimmed. 4. Final board design will be released as Opensource Hardware (OSHW). Zammykoo I hope this is okay. 5. The board will be done in a fab house. Since the fab house is involved, we will need enough orders in order to keep costs down. Please let me know if you are interested. I am still working on the pricing so if you have a budget in mind please let me know in your replies so it could be considered. The board is now currently priced at $40 (One Ethernet Jack) and $50 (Two Ethernet Jacks) plus shipping, which is around $2 - $5 in the United States. For destinations outside the United States, shipping will be around $15 to $20 via USPS Priority Mail with tracking number. You will get the fully assembled board plus all the cables. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- List of Interested Parties: 1. Zammykoo (Since you are the original author, you are first in line and you'll get it for FREE!) 2. Treegjansen 3. Teme 4. Jeffkck 5. PromoMotion (1E) 6. I-Heine-I (1E) 7. Kara5 (1E) 8. Vpr99 (1E) 9. Uknown334 (1E) 10. Geb (1E) 11. Kolki (1E) 12. chocula (1E) 13. chdrsto 14. aeropg1 15. vanderveeken 16. fifty50am 17. rholdorf 18. snnall 19. daveeasa 20. lungshadow 21. mailw 22. khudge 23. frederikwieth --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update Oct 12, 2012 10:15PM Central Daylight Time: Here is the first draft: Update Oct 12, 2012 4:20AM Central Daylight Time: Here is the second draft: The second draft further shrinks the IO board down and centralizing all connections toward the middle. Update Oct 20, 2012: iPod Dock Connector 1 Update Oct 26, 2012: iPod Dock Connector 2 Update Oct 31, 2012: Putting together ================================================================================= Update Jan 3rd, 2013 11:40PM Central Standard Time: I hereby present you... Version 2.0.4b!! The "b" in the version number stands for "beta" and it means the board layout is NOT TESTED. Those who would like to make their own version of the board, you'll assume the risks yourselves. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! This attached ZIP file contains two EAGLE schematics and two EAGLE brd files as well as a list of parts with their Digikey part number. You can get the manufacturer's part number by referencing them on DIgikey's website: www.digikey.com This version contains two boards: one main board that contain all the connectors and a daughterboard that contains the cables. They mate with each other via two 0.05" pitch 30 pin connectors. g5board2.0.4b.zip ================================================================================== Update Aug 22nd, 2013 11:54PM Central Daylight Time: I have been MIA for a few months... have been focusing on my other responsibilities and finally picked up the project again. The audio ports for v2.04b are still not extruded far enough to enable the audio cable to be snapped in so I changed the design a bit to correct that. ================================================================================== Update Aug 26th, 2013 10:57PM Central Daylight Time The board is available to order. Lead time will be about a month since I need to stock up and doing this on my spare time. People on the waiting list will get priority. Please PM me so I can send you my PayPal details...
  2. le0nardwashingt0n

    My simple G5 Mod

    Like many others who have undertaken this mod, I reviewed others’ work before me and was inspired by their designs. I want to acknowledge chaosdesigns and Porto412 in particular (from the site that shall not be mentioned). Overall I’m really happy with how the build came out and it looks so much better than the Corsair 200r case I had been using. My goal was to have a stock Apple G5 look from the outside and inside something that was clean looking, simple, inexpensive, and organized. I really wanted to utilize the meshed aluminum to maximize airflow. Also, I live in a small city apartment so I don’t have access to many tools or a dedicated workspace. Before I get started on the build I need to explain how I came to be in possession of this case. One day my girlfriend and I were driving down the street and saw a G5 tower sitting on the sidewalk! No joke. Before I claimed it I tried to find the owner but no one was home. Other than a cosmetic scratch on the door side it was in great shape. First task was to gut the unit. I stupidly threw away a few parts that I later could have used. Looking back I would have kept everything, every screw, cable, electronic part, antenna, everything until I was finished with the build. I was surprised to learn how many different parts can be reused or converted. Since there are many other guides and pics of gutting on the internet, I'll just show what I did from that point on. I wanted to keep as much of the rear panel intact as possible, so I just cut out as much as I could towards the side of the stock rear fan assembly and to the other side's last row of holes. I wanted to keep the stock fan grills and attached 2 - 92mm fans to that mounting with screws attached from the inside of the grill mounts between the grill assembly and the grill. To do this I just got a mini hack saw, some 3:1 lubricant, and filed the edges. This wasn’t the prettiest process but it got the job done and the file smoothed and cleaned the edges nicely. I used JB Weld to attach the original short standoffs from the G5 case. It took some figuring out where to glue the standoffs and I couldn’t have done it without this old mATX mobo I got (free) from a local computer store. In retrospect I would have waited to use my mobo because this one didn’t have PCI-E and I couldn’t actually put in the graphics card. When I went to fit my graphics card it barely fit and that was only after I kept the mobo screws loose before putting the graphics card in then tightening them down afterwards. The standoffs without the mobo installed. In retrospect I would have put the JB Weld on the standoffs then put the mobo in place, then go back over the top with JB Weld to secure everything. I did end up going back and covering over the tops of the bottom feet of the standoffs. I hope it’s not going anywhere. For the fans in the front I first tried The Laser Hive’s 120mm acrylic mounting, but I didn’t like how it fit and it covered up the G5 mesh. I wanted to have good airflow and not cover the whole front with acrylic. I looked at a lot of other builds and I didn’t see anyone use do what I did. Basically I utilized the existing screws and nuts that attach the case together. I found that one brand of picture frame mounts fit perfectly over the standoffs on the far side of the door and another brand fits on the top row. These ones in the picture are not what I ended up going with but they demonstrate the concept. I ended up replacing these with silver ones with larger hinges to match the case. I then used the blue locktite to make sure any vibrations wouldn’t loosen them up. As the picture shows I used zipties to make a web to hold the fans in place. One the fans were in place I ziptied them tightly at the four corners. The fans don't vibrate at all and they can't be seen from the outside. Here’s a picture of the door side. Sorry the picture’s a little blurry but they’re there. The nuts are small but there was enough thread to get a good grip. One of the apple fans for a test. I ended up using 2 - 120mm fans in it’s place. Because the zipties are light in color they aren’t noticeable from the front of the case. I mounted my PSU on the bottom, set a little back from the rear so I can reach in and use the on/off switch. Right now I just have the cord running through the hole. I might make a PSU tail for a more finished at some point but I want to get the right gauge cable. The grey apple one that matched the case was much thinner than the one from my PSU and to be safe I didn’t want to use that. Again I cut this hole with a hand saw and filed it round(ish). Cutting a round how with straight tools is difficult but it’s good enough for the bottom. Another angle of the PSU intake and rear panel. To mount the PSU I used one of G5 PSU holes and drilled the other three holes that matched the bottom of my PSU. On the bottom of my PSU are 4 screws that hold the fan in place. I unscrewed three (four and the fan would have come undone) and used those to attach the PSU to the case. Worked better than expected and is very secure! Here’s a good view of the top shelf and the small zipties that hold the fan in place. I used the G5 hdd cage to hold my two SSDs (I dual boot off of separate SSDs). With the fan right there, they remain very chilly! I was test fitting the mobo and new HDD tray caddy rack. I got this one one eBay for $23. It’s very simple but does the job. I just took out the top shelf, drilled four holes and attached it with some nuts and bolts from a hardware store. In between I put a few rubber gaskets and weather stripping for vibration dampening. This cage might have worked too. Here’s the completed build, but obviously before managing the wires. I kept the top shelf basically the same as the G5 but put a new 80mm fan up there. I only needed to drill one additional hole to allow me to use zipties to fasten the fan down. I used some thin weather stripping I got at Home Depot for vibration dampening under the fan and around the PSU intake. Also, in this picture you can see where I had to attach the front panel from my old case. I have since installed the BlackCH Mods front panel cable. That works great, now I have a functioning power button, USB, and audio. Also in this picture visible are the two 92mm fans I put in the rear. All I did was remove the original G5 fans and the clip in mounting system. Then I unscrewed the grill from the case. Those screws are tiny and strip easily so be careful!. Then I lined up the new fans and drilled holes to screw through the back inside. When the grill is reattached the screws are covered and the fans are securely mounted. With the fans at the front intaking air and the fans at the rear discharging, there’s a good cross wind over the HDDs, mobo, and GPU. I’m planning on upgrading the chip cooler. I had an H60 in my previous case but there was no way that was going to fit in this case without renovations I didn’t want to do. I’m thinking of getting this Cooler Master one. I figure it should do the job, I’m not planning on overclocking. I kept the DVD drive in it’s original position. It works from up there but it’s not strong enough to push the door open. I had to knock off two small plastic bumps on the drive so the tray would fit through. I rarely use the drive so until it becomes an issue I’m just going to use a piece of tape to hold it open when I’m using it. This picture shows how the 4 original G5 PCI ports line up perfectly with my mATX board. The hole I cut out is a just little smaller than the mobo’s back panel but all of the ports I need access are accessible. I think only a few of the 3.5mm audio ports are blocked and the digital audio out (which I don’t use anyways because I have an Arcam rPac DAC). I figure I can go back and enlarge this if I need to. One other thing I tried but didn’t end up working. I bought a 2xUSB 2.0 to 10 pin header cable to connect to the mobo and put it at the very top inside of the case, above the DVD drive, hoping that my Bluetooth and mouse dongle would work from there. It seems the case does a good job of blocking signals. It was only $3.71 so I thought it might be worth a shot. Right now it’s temporarily hanging out of the back and works a lot better until I come up with a better solution. This image shows the completed inside of the case. I've swapped out the stock cooler with the Zalman CNPS9500 AT. It fit perfectly in the space and has lowered my temps 15 - 20C. Well worth the $35. With the cables all bundled up there's great airflow across the motherboard and graphics card. I'm really happy with how it all came out. The only other thing to fix is the bluetooth/mouse usb dongles. I was thinking about trying this (add a bluetooth card to your hackintosh), but for the time being I'm fine with the cord just coming out of the back. So this is the last photo of the front of the chassis. Can't see the fans at all even though they are black. I was worried they might show through a little, but they're invisible. The items I had to purchase for this build: G5 Case – Free! USB 2.0 cable - $3.71 HDD Cage - $23.98 BlackCH Mods Cable - $30.41 (25 euros) Acrylic sheet - $4 Oversize printing for Acrylic Sheet - $6 PWM power cable – $6.32 2 – 92mm fan – $14.90 1 – 80mm fan – Free Drill Bit Set - $23.92 Anti-Static Wrist Strap - $5.99 Optical drive mounting screws – $7.93 Replacement Rear Grill - $8 Stanley Mini Hacksaw - $11.05 3:1 Lubricant - $5 Loctite - $4.05 Nuts and bolts - $6 Picture frame mounts - $3.05 Weather Stripping - $ 4 Zalman CNPS9500 AT - $35 Total: $203.31 I'm hoping to recoup some of my costs by selling my old case and H60 cooler (the one I pulled out had cracking on the tubing so Corsair is replacing the unit). Here's a link to the Flickr Album with larger photos.
  3. rickyreall84

    Tuf-est Love G5 Mod

    Tuf-est Love In this post I will be showing you the different stages of my G5 Mod. You will also be able to see how I have evolved as a modder. The reason It took me so long to come to my final result with my mod because I was never satisfied. Final Components Apple OS X Mountain Lion Version 10.8.3 http://www.apple.com Apple G5 case http://www.ebay.com/sch/Computer-Cases-Accessories-/175674/i.html?_nkw=g5 Mountain Mods Modular Removable Motherboard Tray http://www.mountainmods.com/mountain-mods-modular-removable-motherboard-tray-p-56.html Asus Sabertooth Z77 LGA 1155 Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821 Inter Core i5-3570k Ivy Bridge Processor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116504 XFX HD6870 Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP http://www.frys.com/product/6815106?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG Kingston HyperX Blu 16GB (2 x 4GB) (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 [newegg]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104231[/newegg] 2 OCZ Agility 3 AGT3-25SAT3-60G 2.5" 60GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive SSD [newegg]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227725[/newegg] COOLER MASTER Silent Pro M600 RS-600-AMBA-D3 600W [newegg]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171036[/newegg] Samsung 22X DVD±RW Burner with Dual Layer Support http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0382892 TP-LINK TL-WDN4800 PCI Express Adapter http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704133 Antec Kuhler H20 620 Mainstream cpu liquid cooling http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0H9-00KN-00001&ParentOnly=1&IsVirtualParent=1 Belking F8T016 Mini Bluetooth adapter (wakes from sleep ) http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8T016-Bluetooth-Laptop-Adapter/dp/B001E96JBK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369253457&sr=1-2&keywords=belkin+bluetooth+adapter 2 BYTECC Bracket-252K 2.5" Dual HDD/SSD Screwless Bracket For 3.5" Drive Bay - Black [NEWEGG]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994139[/NEWEGG] Cables/Fans 2 SilenX IXP-34-08 60mm case fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835191003 Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition CO-9050008-WW 120mm Twin Pack Static Pressure http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181027 Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition blah blah blah http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181025 Fractal Design Silent Series R2 FD-FAN-SSR2-80 80mm Fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835352004 Fractal Design Silent Series R2 FD-FAN-SSR2-40 40mm 40mm Fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835352001 Silverstone CP06 Continuous SATA Power Connector Cable http://www.frys.com/product/6755575?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG 2 BYTECC Bracket-252K 2.5" Dual HDD/SSD Screwless Bracket For 3.5" Drive Bay - Black [NEWEGG]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994139[/NEWEGG] NZXT Premium Cables Starter Kit with Case Fan, VG http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Premium-Cables-Starter-Case/dp/B00BV85J5Q/ref=sr_1_7?srs=2530039011&ie=UTF8&qid=1369246801&sr=8-7&keywords=nzxt+kit Apple Accessories/Already Owned: Apple LED Cinema Display 24-Inch MB382LL/A http://www.craigslist.com Apple Wireless Keyboard MC184LL/B http://www.frys.com/product/6076908 Apple Magic Mouse MB829LL/A http://www.frys.com/product/6076898 APPLE Keyboard MB110LL/B (Wired) http://www.frys.com/product/6952367?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG APPLE Magic Trackpad MC380LL/A http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC380LL/A/magic-trackpad Western Digital Elements 1.5TB USB 2.0 External Hard Drive http://www.frys.com/product/6167259?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG Toshiba PH2050U-1I54 500g Hard Drive 2.5" http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149395 SABRENT EC-25KU Aluminum 2.5" Black USB 3.0 Hard Drive Enclosure http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817366036 Hardware/Materials/Used G5 Parts Kick Plates from home depot (the aluminum matched the G5 case very well) http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202504406?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=kick+plate&storeId=10051&superSkuId=203311315&N=5yc1v&R=202504406#.UUbadL8TvcI LEXAN 24 in. x 18 in. Polycarbonate Sheet (Plastic ) http://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-24-in-x-18-in-Polycarbonate-Sheet-GE-07/202038064#.UZ0s0Cv704w The Hillman Group 4-Count #10-32 x 1/2-in Button-Head Stainless Steel (Allen Screws) http://www.lowes.com/pd_213988-37672-883346_0__?productId=3024580&Ntt=stainless+stell+allen+socket&Ns=p_product_price|0 [b]Techflex 1/2 Clean Cut Sleeving 25 feet Black[/b] [AMAZON]http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Clean-Sleeving-feet-Black/dp/B0008JIQ18/[/AMAZON] Square pieces of velcro HWS Gorilla Glue HWS J.B Weld HWS Black and White Spray Paint (Flat) HWS G5 Enclosure Weird Stuff (PC salvage wharehouse) G5 HD Caddy Weird Stuff G5 Gutted out Power Supply Weird Stuff G5 Front Panel Weird Stuff G5 Standoffs and Screws Weird Stuff Picture Time!! My first mod Rickyreall84 Uglllllyyyyy Tuf Love Mod Still Ugly Tuffer Love Mod Better….but bulky and full of metal Now Tuf-est Love Tuf-est Love Now thats better!! I switched to the Antec Kuhler h20 620 because the pump on the h60 corsair was to loud and I didn't like the hoses. I also added a 40mm Fractal fan silent addition because the sabertooth fan that came with the board was whinny and loud. I added 2 120mm corsair vaccum fans for push pull. My average temps are 28c-30c over clocked to 4.22. I am also working on painting my kingston memory heat sinks white to go along with my theme. I used black velcro cut into triangles to mount the fans on the front if you look close you can see them (I used gorilla glue for better stickyness). I used the original black screws and standoffs to mount the plastic which fit perfectly behind the front panel. If you look on the bottom of the fans you will see a switch which controls my front panel audio on/off. If you want more info on that check out my tuf love mod it will go into it in detail. The original G5 HD caddy painted black. I had to cut the front of the caddy and remount the bracket on the top back more to push the caddy forward to place the motherboard behind it. The caddy is mounted with the original screws. The fractal 80mm fan was mounted using cut strips of black velcro (Gorilla Glue!!). I like the overall look of the fan and I basically bout it because it looked cool cause my ssds do not get hot, but if I plan on switching them out it might come in handy. The XFX Radeon 6870 has a new fan that I mounted on the heatsink with (gorilla Glue). The fan is from a PCI slot fan that i took apart. The sata cables fit nicely behind the caddy and the Silvertone data power stripe is mounted on the top of the case to hide it (Velcro, Gorilla Glue) All the wires and nzxt extensions are hiding behind the black plastic. I used ersterhernd mod for the reference. I wire tied the 6pin extensions to the video card. I made a custom back panel for my Tuffer Love mod so i kept it. It was hard to fit the 120mm fan between the motherboard and case . I drilled out all of the original holes and put in the allen hex screws. Front I used the original plastic dust thingy and modified it to fit my video card. I also used clear plastic to make the top panel to match. The bottom of the plastic is lined with black sprinkler hose cut with a razor to make it flush. I took apart the dvd drive and painted the shell black to match my color theme. I also painted the bottom plate black to match which you can't see in this picture. Final Picture No Comments Thanks for looking!!! Comments would be awesome and I will update with my heatsink project when it is finished Updated Photos: Painted Memory
  4. Mac_user12

    Frage bzl. G5 Casemod

    Hallo liebe Comunity, Ich plane seit heute morgen meinen ersten Hackintosh. Nun bin ich beim Case angekommen. Ich habe vor mir bei Ebay ein G5 Case zu holen, und dieses auf ATX um zubauen. Nur habe ich nun das Problem : " Wohin mit dem Netzteil" ? kann man es einfach in das Case legen? Ich kann zwar Computer bauen und einrichten, aber hab noch nie ein Netzteil nicht richtig in ein Case bekommen. Ein NT mod auf das G5 NT würde ich gerne umgehen, da das für mich nur potentielle Störquellen sind. Vielen dank schon einmal. Gruß Mac_user12 PS: Ich hoffe das der Threat richtig gelegt ist. Bin neu im Forum
  5. WhatTheTech

    WhatTheTech's Trading Outpost

    Ok, so I have an over-abundance of tech-related items. So...this is where I'm going to post said stuff. Please excuse me while I list several boxes of stuff...this list will update. ----------------------------- CURRENTLY FOR SALE ----------------------------- 1) 2 x Scythe Slipstream 120mm Slim Fans (link) - Really nice fans, reasonably quiet - Perfect for HTPC/Low Profile Coolers 2) 2 x Apple Pro Keyboard (black/silver) (link) - In decent shape, definitely 100% functional 3) 2 x Apple Pro Mouse (black/silver) (link) - Perfect for completing that vintage mod 4) 2 x Powermac G5 Hard-Drive Caddy (link) - Continue the stock look and still add HDD slots! IMAGES OF ITEMS FOR SALE: ----------------------------- ----------------------------- PM me or email with your offers! Don't worry too much about the amount you're offering - I'm not looking to make my money back on these things and will definitely work with you! I will ship internationally as long as you're willing to pay for it. I can also go through eBay if you prefer - I have 100% positive feedback over there.
  6. Hey guys. Im currently working on my G5 mod and just completed the hard part - I have cut the rear and placed my tray in it by using the original G5 fan mesh. It looks clean to me, I will post pictures when the raw construction is over. I have ordered some fans and the PSU yesterday and I'm not sure about the airflow that I want... I have two ideas and would be very happy if you could guide me to the best alternative: 1: From bottom to top This design is all about positive air pressure. All fans are intake, which means that the amount of dust entering the case is more control able, isn't it? Heat is also rising and I hope the airflow will benefit from this design... What do you think? Bad idea? Why? 2: From left to right (standard?) I see this kind of design in almost every G5 mod and there might be a very good reason for that. Is this deign better than my thoughts above? Will the amount of positive air pressure be enough to keep most dust outside? Thanks!
  7. Did anyone do a G5 mod placing the motherboard vertically? (and by that I mean having the openings in the bottom). I'm considering such a mod currently. You keep the exterior of the G5 unchanged (maybe except for the ports at the back that you could put an aluminum strip over maybe with USB 3.0). It accommodates larger motherboards, mounting it this way means you should be able to squeeze even an E-ATX board in. Power-supply on top, but without a cutout, will be using the existing cutout at the bottom and an internal cable to the PSU on top. Drives in optical bay compartment. The main problem I see with this is that will be hard to find room for intake fans but then again this way the CPU fan would sit almost at the front anyway. Any thoughts?
  8. ...and says "do whatever you want with it" - it's VERY hard to stay in retirement. Hi to everyone who remembers me! For those who don't, I ran the short-lived G5Modders.com website as well as the soon-to-be-relaunched MacModders.com site! I have backups of the Ultimate G5 Modding thread as well as various other tutorials, guides, builds and whatnot that will be put back online - it's awesome to see people still modding away! With a 24" iMac and a 15" Macbook Pro from work for home use, as well as a last-gen Mac Pro with a 30" ACD at my desk at work, it was easy to go into a retirement. I had two computers at home, one at work - what else could I want? Well all that changed when we were clearing out some old junk (I work at a printing company) and came across an old dusty G5 in perfect condition besides a few minor scratches and labels stuck to it. After replacing the hard-drive and RAM...BLAM - up and running, well currently installing OS X Panther. I was told to keep it, since I'm pretty sure it doesn't run the Adobe CC 2014 suite... As much as I love that this is a fully-functional G5, for it to be useful for me, it's going to have to be gutted and replaced with a hackintosh. Besides, what's the fun of having a G5 case without ripping it open?? This will be a slow worklog - I have to pull all of my modding supplies out of storage, choose my parts, order one of TLH's fantastic trays... Nice to be back, looking forward to seeing some old faces!
  9. Hello fellow Hackintoshers, I’ve seen a lot of Hackintoshes on the internet and decided to make my own combining all the (in my opinion) best mod idea's i’ve seen so far. After a bit of research i found a semi-clean G5 case with a broken logic board. When i went to pick it up, the dude who sold it to me also noticed he had a Cinema Display, unfortunately without the power brick. I, without knowing how rare and expensive the bricks were, bought it along with the case, because i wanted the original “apple feeling” and thats pretty hard staring at a Dell of ASUS monitor when compared with the ACD. Seeing as i am a dutch native, there might be some spelling errors. After spending quite some time on this and similar forums looking for compatible components i chose the following components: Motherboard : Gigabyte H77-DS3H Processor : Intel i5 3570 Processor cooler : Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo + Noctua 120mm Fan Ram modules : Ballistix Tactical 8GB(2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL8 Graphic card : Gainward GTX 770 Phantom 2GB Solid State Drive : 256 GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD Harddisk : 2x 2 TB HDD Rear Case fan : 2x Noctua 92mm Fan Controller : Scythe Kaze Q Black Bluetooth adapter : Sitecom CN-516 Network card : TP Link WN851N Powersupply : Cooler Master B600 Money spent sofar: €435 My main goal was to make a fast, quiet dual boot Hackintosh, Windows 7 for gaming and OSX because i prefer the OSX GUI over Windows (and because i was making a G5 mod, OSX was kind of mandatory). I know the 3570 had a -k version which is an unlocked CPU and can be over clocked but its going to primarily be a gaming pc on Win7 and iWorks, browsing and occasional small editing projects in OSX. I don't really care of the extra CPU speed, besides i find a lot more heat and noise not outweighing the benefits of those couple of extra Mhz. LETS GET STARTED Right, i’ve got the case, and being the stereotypical poor student that i am, i scraped enough money together to buy the motherboard, the fans and controller and the PSU to start off with the mod. I’ve seen a lot of mods where they cut the rear I/O panel and fan shield to later replace that with a custom made aluminium sheet but since i was going for the “apple feeling” i was (and still am) reluctant to cut into the case. CLEARING THE CASE After a ridiculous amount of puzzling, being stubborn as i am, (i didn't want to use any guides besides it was broken anyway) i got the Motherboard out of the case and removed the rest of the components. I continued with the removal of the top shelf, the motherboard standoffs and other weird looking pins. What i was left with, was a completely empty case. Now to place the ATX standoffs. I grounded myself, touched both the case and the motherboard, so as to remove any static electricity, i placed my motherboard inside the case and pushed a marker through each on of the screw holes. I had also bought a 150 piece screw and bolt set including motherboard standoffs. I combined the new motherboard standoffs with a spacer and a nut. After i had 7 of them, i proceeded to epoxy glue them to the backplate using the marks of the marker as reference points. After i glued them into place i reassembled my motherboard back onto the new standoffs to check the alignment. I left the glued standoffs, with the motherboard with a couple of books for weight on it, to dry. PSU I then turned my attention to the power supply. It had a nasty-looking dusty interior, which i removed. To go for a clean look, i wanted to install the new Coolermaster PSU in the old PSU box. After some careful disassembly and some soldering the PSU fitted perfectly in the box. I found the old PSU stock coolers to be too loud for the quiet build i was going for, so i replaced them with two 60mm ultra silent cooling fans. THE CASE FAN The stock case fans were also a bit too loud for my taste so i replaced them with 2 Noctua 92mm fans, one pulling the hot air from the CPU cooler and another one pushing cool air through the case. The CPU cooler and GPU card are going to be placed pushing hot air towards those fans and out the case. After all the fans were in place, they were routed to the Scythe Kaze fan controller. APPLE CINEMA DISPLAY After finding out the power bricks costed more than what i had spent on the case and monitor (!!!) i did a bit of googling and found a mod. The screen is powered by a 65watt PSU at approx. 24 volts. Universal laptop chargers are 90w. and about 24v. I think you can guess where this is going. After i soldered everything together i found out my Universal adapter cycles through the voltage when there isn’t a connector tip connected. This resulted in 5 seconds of display and than the short-short-long power error. Back to the drawing board. I later found another universal adapter with a manual volt regulator. After redoing the entire thing of testing which wire was positive and negative with the voltmeter i soldered everything back up and wrapped it in tape. This time the trick worked! The rest is yet to come. Since i am on a very tight school schedule and tight funding, i actually have very little time to mod the case and continue the build, so it’s gonna be a couple of weeks till the next update. See y'all in a few weeks! let me know what you think so far! tips and tricks are always welcome (Edit - Spelling errors)
  10. Dear Patrons of Insanelymac, My name is WhatTheTech, and I am the author of the Ultimate G5 Resource Page that many of you have used over the past year or so to help you mod your Powermac G5. It was originally a thread on Tonymac, and was then moved to WhatTheTech.info, where it has garnered quite a bit of attention over the past few months (the original thread was mentioned in an article on Lifehacker.com). On Friday (fingers crossed we launch in time), it will be moved again. I have been working with a few of the dedicated G5 modders in this community and others, to put together a one-stop website for people looking to mod the Powermac G5 (and other Apple hardwares). The website will of course have the Ultimate G5 Resource Page, the G5 Beginner's FAQ, as well as the Front Panel Informational Page and several others that are in the works as we speak. We also will have a "Submit Your Mod" area where you can show off your mod. Unlike these forums, which are excellent for discussion-based worklogs and mods, this is simply going to be a centralized collection of already-finished G5 mods to inspire and possibly instruct. Each mod gallery has the ability to have a link to the original thread, so we also hope to send some people towards InsanelyMac too (believe it or not, there are people who have no idea what a hackintosh is, but still want to mod a G5!!!) From our launch date, we will have a store where you can find custom-made parts for your G5 mod, built by people in the G5 community. Hopefully in a week or so, I will have enough stock to open the stock-parts store, offering G5 cases and internal parts cheaper than anywhere else on the web! I already have some G5 cases looking for new homes at a VERY reasonable price. We are not looking to take away users from Insanelymac or any other website, this community means to much to all of us for that. We are simply looking to provide easily-accessed information for people on the G5-modding journey! We do not run ads, and people selling through our website do not pay fees. We are simply in this for the love of modding. Any profits from the store will go right back in to purchasing more stock to pass on at killer prices, as well as to cover hosting fees. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or send me an email at contact@g5modders.com - I will be more than happy to answer any that you might have. We really would love for you to stop on by - submit your mod, take a look at the new articles that will be going up, and make sure to check out our "Thank You" page where you will see some familiar names! Thank you all for your support so far and don't forget....MOD ON! Note: I asked for and received permission to post this thread!
  11. Currently have 2 fully working Power Mac G5 systems for sale. Model: A1047-1969 (1.8 GHz PowerPC 970 (G5)) Single Core 1.8GHz Processor 512MB 400MHz PC3200 DDR SDRAM Both are the same. However one has no RAM in it currently. I can add it if it is important to you. Both cases have minor scratches, and one has pen or something partially on the apple symbol on the door. Other than that there are no major damage marks or really noticiable wear marks. Please PM me, EMail, or Call ((316)304-7576) me anytime and we can get something going. I am new here, and have a closet full of apple/pc parts. I figure I will be on here religeously soon since I am starting a build in a couple of weeks! I like what I see so far!
  12. That's right, it's yet another mod noob (me) trying his hand at turning the beautifully crafted G5 case into a mATX Frankenstein/Gaming machine. The awesome projects that I have seen here (and at G5 Modders) have made me think that I actually have a shot at making this mod come out not-to-horribly. The Plan: 1) Install Laserhive rear I/O plate 2) Add Laserhive motherboard tray. 3) Build fan brackets for the front of the case. Bought Laserhive front fan bracket. 4) Install 92mm fans on Laserhive rear I/O plate. 5) Install front panel board 6) Install wiring adapter made by BlackCH 7) Install modular PSU 8) Fabricate female to male extension cable from PSU to existing rear port on case. 9) Install hdd tray behind fabricated fan bracket (Might reinstall HDD bay in stock location). New solution needed. 10) Run power cables from PSU to required areas Parts to buy: Intel i5 3750k (Thanks, Mr. D.!) CPU Fan/cooler Radeon HD 7870 (Original plan was for GTX 560 TI) Corsair CX600M PSU (would a 550watt be sufficient?) ASRock Z77M Motherboard Crucial Ballistix Sport 8gig (2 x 4gig) ram 2 x 92mm Arctic F9 Case Fans 2 x 120mm Arctic F12 Case Fan I already own quite a few WD Black 1TB SATA HDDs, so I am not going to purchase new ones. If you have suggestions for parts, then by all means make them. I am really close to my budget for parts ($800USD), but if you see something better at around the same price, please share. Here's my case, it's got a few minor scratches, but it's a beauty from 2ft away. Also, here's some pictures of the disassembly process. One other thing, I haven't seen this slot (the one under the lock lever) on any of the other cases. I think the I/O Backplate will cover it, but I may have to do some metal massaging. Anyhow, I am now waiting for parts, but I want to thank all of the people who have done this before for so generously documenting the steps that they took and how to avoid some issues as well. Hopefully I'll have some updates soon!
  13. KEY FEATURES: - Modular PSU in G5 housing - Multi-bay 2.5" Drive Storage - Reusing Apple Case Fans - The Laser Hive Custom Motherboard Tray & Back Plate - Cable Sleeving & Wire Management PROLOGUE: This is my third Powermac G5 modification, and is the one that I have been most excited about! After my first G5 mod, I wrote the Ultimate G5 Resource Page (link) and was overwhelmed by the amount of views it has received. Many of the pageviews were returning visitors, which told me that people were coming back to it as a reference, and not just happening upon it via Google. After over a year of not touching a G5 (having sold both of my previous mods) I decided that it was about time that I got back in the game, hopefully to bring some fresh content and tutorials to those venturing into the G5 modding world! SPONSORED MOD? A sponsored mod is one where manufacturers or individuals contribute parts/components/supplies to a case mod project. It benefits them by bringing attention to their products in a (some might argue) saturated market, and obviously it helps take some of the financial burden off of me. I am still finalizing the list of sponsors for this project, and will update this section once that is done. I would like to thank all the people who believed enough in my modding abilities to help support me in this mod, without you, this literally wouldn't have happened! Icy Dock (www.icydock.com) Components Provided: ToughArmor MB996SP-6SB 2.5" Drive Bay (link) I think I am most excited about this part of my G5 case mod. Drive storage is always a bit of a tricky one, and I'm positive that this drive bay will be the perfect solution. It normally goes in a 5.25" slot, and can store up to 6 hot-swappable 2.5" drives! Now that 1TB 2.5" drives are only running at around $70, an all-2.5" solution was a no brainer! Vantec USA (www.vantecusa.com) Components Provided: 2 x 120mm Stealth Case Fans (link) When modding the G5, the loudness of your chosen fans is pretty darn important - you can almost consider the entire case to be open-air with that mesh! I chose the Stealth fans because they push a lot of air at a very unimposing 20dBa! Arctic Cooling (www.arctic.ac) Components Provided: Freezer i30 Enthusiast-grade CPU cooler (link) With four direct touch copper heat pipes and a monster heatsink, this is a beast of a CPU cooler that has been scoring high marks across the web in reviews. Did I mention it runs about 70% quieter than the stock Intel cooler? The Laser Hive (www.thelaserhive.com) Components Provided: mATX motherboard tray and back plate (link) If there's one thing I love about the hackintosh community, it's the general spirit of ingenuity! David from The Laser Hive is a perfect example of this, and has several very creative and professionally executed solutions for the G5, and his flexibility and willingness to work on an individual basis means that I can highly recommend his products! Alohacab (forum thread) Components Provided: G5 front panel ATX Cable (link) Very much along the same lines as The Laser Hive products, Alohacab is one of the few people in the hackintosh community selling quality accessories that make the lives of G5 modders that much easier! If you don't feel comfortable with a soldering iron and pinout diagram (or maybe you just want to save some time), Alohacab offers a professional-looking cable at an affordable price. COMPONENT LIST: To be decided. I do know that I will be including: - 2 x 240GB Chronos Deluxe Mushkin SSD (link) - 2 x 1TB Samsung Spinpoint 1TB 2.5" HDD (link) - AlohaCab's Front Panel Cable (thread link) - The Laser Hive motherboard tray and back plate (link) - Apple Bluetooth Module (guide) - Apple Wi-Fi Card (guide) - Apple Chime on Startup (guide). TO DO LIST: - Tear down case (done!) - Clean case as best as possible (done) - Decide what original parts I want to keep - Decide what solution I want to use for the motherboard (done) - Decide what to use for HDD storage - Gut Powermac PSU, ready for modular ATX power supply - Wire Apple fans for 5V (quieter) - Cut back panel opening UPDATES AND FINAL PICS: Forthcoming.
  14. So, Im doing a G5 (late 2005 model) case mod in which I plan to use the original front panel for the Power Button and Power LED (and other connections which I have figured out) As you might know this is the model with the difficult front panel with no simple connection- no probelmo, I can work with it but I have become a little confused with the task of getting my motherboard to work with the original Front Panel. Heres a diagram of the G5 front panel pinout- 01 02 03 04 05 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Audio USB Firewire Button/LED unknown 01: Audio Left 02: Audio GND 03: Audio Right 04: ??? 05: FIREWIRE GND (double) 06: USB VCC (+5V) 07: GND 08: GND 09: FIREWIRE TPB- 10: FIREWIRE TPB+ 11: LED 12: Firewire FW802C IC VDDA (+3.3V) 13: ??? 14: GND 15: FIREWIRE VCC (double) (+12V) 16: GND 17: USB D- 18: USB D+ 19: GND 20: FIREWIRE TPA- 21: FIREWIRE TPA+ 22: BUTTON And for my motherboard- So what I'm confused about is connecting the Power Button and Power LED from the motherboard to the front panel as on the front panel pinout there is only 1 connection for the power button and power led but on the Motherboards pinout there is 2 connections for each- how can I get them to work? Any help on this would be great! Thanks
  15. *First of all sorry for my horrible English i hope you guys don't mind. Hi there. So i did my first full working Hackintosh mod. But i was not satisfied. The thing is. It is so easy to make a full working hackintosh with the guides. But build it in a beautiful Apple case in another thing. So i saw a G5 case and felt in love . I hope i can enjoy you people with another G5 project. Here is the hardware i'm using: Motherboard: Gigabyte Z87X-D3H Processor: Intel Core i5 4430 Memory: Corsair Vengeance Low Profile 8 GB (2x4) SSD: Samsung 240 EVO 250gb HDD: 500gb samung Power: Corsair CX Series Modular CX500M Wifi: TP-LINK TL-WDN4800 450Mbps Wireless N And here is day 1 and 2 with the case: The backplate and motherboard tray conversion set from The Laser Hive(many many thanks for the beautiful set). The new design with the PSU integrated on the top. Day 3: I cut some small pieces to make it fit right. Than i started to fit the hardware. I only have some trouble to fit the PSU. But pics say more. Day 4: A temporary solution for the psu adapter. Day 5: I cut the dvd tray to fit next to the psu. I have to adjust it a little more but it almost fits perfect. Day 6. New fans and started with the cable management.
  16. José Pablo Leyva Hernández

    Pregunta: Fuente de poder Power Mac G5

    Tengo una recién descompuesta Power Mac G5 y quisiera hacerla un nuevo Hackintosh, mi pregunta es puedo utilizar la fuente de poder que incluye originalmente o tengo que comprar una fuente de PC, la placa que utilizare es una Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H
  17. After upgrading a PowerMac G5 Dual to OS X 10.5.8 the input device Contour ShuttlePRO (Hercules Edition) does not work (device not recognised by the driver). I use the Contour driver 2.2 and in the System Profiler I can see the device on a USB port. Any help wil be greatly appreciated! cheers, d.
  18. So I got a hold on a pretty complete and OK state PowerMac G5 case, without the logic board and no PSU, although the PSU casing is present. I actually didn't know what to do with it when I bought it, all I knew is wanted to do a project with a Mac Pro or PowerMac G5 for a very long time. Here are some photos: In the foto's above I removed the optical drive since I'll probably not use it or replace it with a SATA one, it's just not a priority at all. It also has no physical damage except some scratches. I don't know if I'll leave it like that or I'll treat it with a new coat of anodising, it's also one of the last things on my mind. The plan now is to make it into a NAS, since I need lots of room for disks and this case can supply me with that space. I want to get about 8 hard drives in there as a starting point in the same way as another modder did. But I'm contemplating on using the Mac Pro hard drive brackets with a custom-built system to hang them all horizontally, in a vertical arrangement. If anyone has the exact measurements of those Mac Pro HDD trays, I owe you one. I'm also planning of putting the entire motherboard inside, using a seperate custom board for the connections on the back. I saw that someone was making them as a project, but it didn't include the FireWire or optical ports, which I intend to do include. I'm still not sure if this is doable but this project doesn't need to be finished any time soon, so I'll probably get this done later anyway. As the PC hardware goes, nothing is set in stone. It depends when most of the work is complete and how much disposable income I have at that time I guess. At the moment I'm thinking it will be my retiring current system, which is the following: - micro-ATX Asus P5E-VM HDMI (onboard video) - Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6850 - 8GB Corsair Dominator DDR2 PC2-8500 - bunch of 3,5" hard drives I also have a Scythe Mugen II CPU-cooler somewhere that I never got to install due to my current case not having enough room. As the power supply I'm not sure what I will do, except that I will use the hidden compartment and the case of the original PSU to get one in there. I have an Antec NeoPower Blue 650W PSU and a Shuttle PC50 250W PSU (very compact), not sure which one to use yet but I have options. Also something worth mentioning: the standard 120mm fan is specced at 12V and 0.37A, while the two 60mm fans in the Apple PSU case are specced at 12V and 0.17A each. This results in a nice 0.34A when both are connected, so the PSU can use them without a problem. This is what I'm planning for the PSU: The original PSU: Placement: What I'm going for: The plan is to have the modular ports exposed so I can easily add cables. Not certain about this though, but it's an option. Since I'll only need two SATA powercables for the Corsair SATA backplane kits, I decided it was easier to just solder the cables to the PSU PCB: I also connected the fans which just work because they have a comparable power draw (12V 0.17A x2 vs 12V 0.37A) as the Antec's original fan. You can also see I provisioned a connector for the PSU, should I ever decide to change it, it will be easier. And this is how it looks with the shelf on the PSU: I also put the rear fan frame in for reference. Fans: 2x Noctua NF-B9 fans and 1x Noctua NF-R8 fan to replace the original fans. I needed the included rubber mounts for the 80mm fan as I managed to break off two of the 10-year old original ones. Luckily they won't be in the direct line of sight when you open the case. The ones on the 92mm fan bracket I managed to preserve. 2x Corsair SATA 6Gbps Upgrade kit for 800D. This is basically a very cheap and elegant solution to add multiple SATA ports, only uses one port for power and comes included with a nice male-female cable. I plan on using these in the front of the case. On the overall look, I want to keep it as clean as possible and as original as possible. When all the preparations are complete, I'll likely include the G5 shield to cover the motherboard. I've already ordered replacement fans (from Noctua) and two 4-port SATA backplane kits from Corsair, along with the front-panel I/O cable from BlackCH. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome !
  19. So it's been a while since I posted any mod.s here on Insanely, but I figured it's about time as I have got the bug again to do some stuff for myself. The catalyst for this build It started when I was going to buy some kit online and saw there was a special offer on the Kraken x60 water cooling set up and thought "yep, okay I'll just tick the box that says "buy". The Kraken hasn't been around for long and it is an integrated water cooler based around 2 x 140mm fans and a 280mm radiator. It has had some reasonable reviews, but I've seen no reports yet of one in a hack. Fitment in a G5 is not a logical one as though you might be able to front mount it I don't like the idea of exhausting hot air into the case. It certainly won't rear mount, so that leaves top or bottom. The donor case In my day to day stuff with the laser hive I end up messing around with a lot of cases, usually doing half a build to see if something fits and then ending up with lots of hacked around cases littering house and workshop. The case I have decided to do this mod "for me" with is a broken case. It started as one that someone sent to me for me to do a conversion on, but it arrived with the familiar bent leg (thank you white van man). I tried to bend it back and made a reasonable job of it, but really didn't want to be modding a damaged case for someone else, so I swapped the case out for one I had here and did the customer mod based on a good case - and then kept the damaged one here as one of my guinea pig cases. The guinea pig case I ripped apart and converted it to do a test fit on one of my ATX kits, and then ripped it apart again. So now it was not just broken, but had a large hole in the back already. What kind of build? The impulse buy of the X60 though got me thinking about sticking the radiator on the roof of a G5, so I thought now was the time to try that out on the guinea pig case. But there was no point in just having a roof mount for a radiator if it wasn't part of a full build was there? A 280 radiator on the roof seems pointless without the case being able to take a full ATX tray. So it had to be ATX (if only to fill the large hole already in the case back). I wanted plenty of disk storage, and also needed to do a little development work on my 7 disk hot swap enclosure so using that on this build seemed logical. My only option with a radiator on the roof and my using the hot swapper is to put the PSU in the G5 PSU case. I also wanted to keep a DVD drive. The 280 radiator though, wherever I put it, would not give room for a full size DVD, so I decided I'd need a slot loader. Unfortunately the depth of the radiator and the fans and the whole length of it - even if I put it to the back of the case - would not give room for a slot loader to spit disks from the original DVD area so I needed a re-think on that too. The final configuration then and now decided on is to put the slot loading DVD at around the top shelf level and, to use the space above it to fit a fan controller. Not just any fan controller though - the Lamptron FC10 with Nixie tube display that Graeme at Kustom PCs had just told me had come into stock after having been a virtual product for months and months. This controller set me back a fair amount, but it just looks so awesome that it almost deserves to have the mod themed around it. I can hopefully work on having a ATX board, graphics card and processor somewhere along the line (!) - as this build deserves to live. More than that, this case really should have some serious hardware to justify the Kraken cooler. Next post will be the first case cuts. Things to decide though (and I really haven't decided yet!) is whether to go black and white, black and silver or conventional. And, as I am prototyping almost everything I do in acrylic, whether to stick with some or all of my acrylic parts or translate everything into aluminium.....
  20. Below is my attempt to build my hackintosh in a G5 case. Here are pictures from the build. Here is the crucial part of the build, making room for the motherboard tray by getting rid of this divider. If you need a guide on how to take it out, nikkokick has outlined how in his G5 build. http://www.insanelym...howtopic=274997 I had to use a special blade designed specifically to cut into this metal. I happened to have a miter saw, so I was able to make a really clean cut. Notice that I saved three of the attachment points that attach to the slider and two attachment points that attach to the G5. Those are going to be crucial later on since I plan to put my optical on top and also hang my hard drive bay from there. I began to tackle the back by outlining where I needed to cut. I wanted the rear panel to sit on some mesh, not fall through, so I used the edge of the two 80mm fans as a guide. (Though I ended up cutting further out since I wanted the fans to sit flush). I ended up using a full sized angle grinder / rotary tool rather than a Dremel, since I didn't want it to take hours. The next thing I realized was that the motherboard tray rear panel covered the unlocking mechanism, so I needed to find a way to cut it. What I did was rather cheap solution, but it worked. I put the rear panel on as I would've wanted it, and from the inside, I marked with an ultra-fine tip sharpie. I chose the mesh "line" closest to the unlock mechanism and dotted my cutting line. It wasn't the best cut I've ever done, but it was enough to make sure that the unlocking mechanism would be accesible. For this, since the tray was so thin, I did use the Dremel with the metal cutting discs on them. The night started to come, so the pictures started getting darker.. Here is the divider put back into the case. The unlocking mechanism normally gives you a gratifying "click" when you lock it. Upon removal of the steel divider, it no longer did that, so I wanted to figure out a way. If you look at that long piece of plastic, there are "spots" or "areas." I chose the area between the first hex bolt (closest to the hinge) and the first (of the three) locking pins. I took a piece of paper, folded it a few times over to give it a bit of thickness, and stuffed it between the plastic slide and the metal. It now clicks like a charm! I started to JBweld (I used the Qwik variety) the G5 standoffs to my mobo tray. I really wanted to finish the case in one day, so I didn't go out to look for screws. If it was the optimum situation, I would screw through the mobo tray into the standoff, but time didn't permit. I ended up putting seven of the standoffs throughout and spread them evenly. I gave them about 30-40 minutes to harden enough to do the next step. I made more JBWeld, coated the other side of the standoff, and carefully flipped the entire mobo tray and slid it into the G5. I kept the rear panel attached so that it wouldn't shift the mobo tray. :: UPDATED 3/04 I've actually been working on two case, one for my friend and one for myself. He wanted to keep the G5 HD caddy, I went a different route since I wanted to expand to 4+ hard drives. For the original caddies, I noticed that if I just mounted the caddy straight onto the optical tray, there may not be enough space to manipulate a hard drive into the caddy. I fixed that by putting a 1" coupler to act as a spacer between two screws. I only used three points for attachment. (I screwed up my drills a few time, if you can't tell.) I bought this HD Rack: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16816111045 I took the fan off from the back and stripped the power switch and adapter. I then added my own fan to the left (also my intake fan) with a 1" spacer so that I can still access the locking mechanism for each of the bays. I took their fan and put in the right, to use as a suction fan. I also cut a hole into the bottom of the HD bay so that my power supply will be able to take in some air, as well.
  21. I am currently working on a G5 ATX conversion but I have one thing which I yet have to decide. I really want to keep the stock look on the back of my G5. But the problem, of course, is the fact that fitting the motherboard directly to the back of the case will force you to cut out space for the motherboard I/O panel. Thinking of this, I came up with the idea of placing the motherboard slightly to the front of the case (so the PCI cards will not be mounted directly to the rear slots). When a GPU is installed, I could simply use a DVI bracket with a DVI extension cable attached to extend the video output to the rear slots. Common version Alternative A DVI bracket: This might work, although I have two major concerns: - I am planning to use a high power GPU (ATI HD5850) in this build. The GPU blows out it's heat at the back of the card, through its mounting bracket. When placing the back of the GPU in the case, the GPU may not be able to blow all it's heat out of the case. This may be solvable by making a air duct which extends to the back of the case to guide the heat out of it. I would also replace the stock expansion slot brackets with ones with ventilation holes. - Is it okay to fit a pretty heavy GPU just to a PCIe-slot, instead of also attaching it with a screw to the case? I'm slightly worried about the amount of weight which will be put on the motherboard because the GPU is not attached to the case itself. I am planning on using a Gigabyte M-ATX motherboard with this build. I would really appreciate any feedback, thanks in advance!
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