Jump to content
Ira Aduro

The three pin to two pin adapter for front power button

7 posts in this topic

Recommended Posts

Hey all, before I ask my question I'll note that I know there are conversion cables for sale by people here. However I'd like to have USB 3 on the front and so I devised a way to do that but that leaves me without a working power button and led indicator. I noticed the power button, et al. has a three pin connector. I've been searching for a three pin to two pin adapter so I can just plug the power button into my gigabyte motherboard. I haven't had any luck. Is anyone aware of such a connector and would that 1) work 2) allow the led to function. Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Advertisement

haven't done a G5 mod, but if it's a power button with built in led, you should have one wire going to + on you mobo power pins and one going to + on your HDD LED pins and then they would both share the 3rd wire as their - ground. A multimeter will help you figure it out. Since the LED is a diode, it will only be a complete circuit i one direction. So with multimeter set to read ohms, which ever two wires give a zero reading but also give a 1 reading when positive and negative multimeter probes are swapped should be your led. Then same test for powerbutton but it should be 1 when button not pushed and 0 when pushed. The common wire you needed to get bpth tests to work is your shared ground. It's because of the diode that the ground wire can be shared without what should be 2 separate circuits getting crossed up. So you actually want to make 2 x 2-pin connectors from your 1 x 3-pin connecter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I would split this into three wires, connect all three to mono connectors (using a single slot connector thingy)?

 

Is it possible to desolder the usb 2.0 female connector from the front port board, solder on a usb 3.0 female connector and call it a day?

 

btw it would help if I posted a photo.

 

imag43301.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

USB aside as you said you had that covered. 3-pin plug there is for the power button and the power LED right? So you would make it into two separate 2-pin plugs, one to go on the mobo's power switch pins and another to go on the mobo's power LED pins (sorry said HDD LED in error before). One of the wires in that 3-pin plug (the common ground) will need to be slit into two wires giving you four wires all together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I see now. I have never done something like this before but I understand enough to do it, I think. Just to be sure I'm going to say it back to you. I need apply the - and + multimeter probes to two wires. Whichever two wires I get a 0 and 1 reading from (swapping the + and - probes) are the LED and Ground wires. Then, whichever two wires I get a 0 and 1 (depending on whether power button is pressed or not) are the power and ground wire. I need to splice the ground wire into two wires (I guess I'd splice by wrapping two wires at different points around the ground wire?)

 

Thanks a ton for your help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ira - I have a link on my resource page for cables that should help you out a ton. They can go directly from that connector to your motherboard:

 

http://www.whatthetech.info/tutorials/g5modding/

 

Scroll down to "Front Panel Jumper Wires" - the male end should fit right in that three-pin connector, just hot-glue to make sure they stay and run them to your motherboard.

 

Hope this helps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By jgperson
      Here is my build in its current form. I absolutely love this project as it has grown! All hackintosh install instructions were found at Ryzen Clover Installation Guide macOS Sierra - AMD - InsanelyMac Forum
       
      First thing to know is that two of these systems were built at the same time. One for my buddy to use for his YouTube channel (See the video here for the twin system https://youtu.be/rRW4c1FnRrE), and mine. He called me up with an idea, to build a water-cooled Ryzen hackintosh inside of an old PowerMac G5 case, and as soon as he said the idea I was hooked. I have always loved the PowerMac G5 because when it came out, I liked to edit photos and it was what I thought at the time was "The Ultimate Machine". So here are some pictures of how it came about. 
       
      I picked up two PowerMac G5s (both working mind you) in case I messed anything up on the first one. I did not so now I still have a working PowerMac G5. Lol.
       
      Starting off we have disassembly. Note that I don't have a lot of pictures of this progress as I have impulse control issues and wanted it apart ASAP. lol. This is a challenging computer to take apart but well worth doing as this case is amazing! The case I had was pretty beat up with scratches and stuff so I had to do a lot of sanding to get them out.
       

       

       

       
      After disassembly, I took to a small test fit by placing an old mother board in the case to figure out where to cut out for IO in the rear of the case. A quick sharpie line and some dremel time were in order after that.
       

       

       
      Following the IO I cut out the side panel for my piece of acrylic. Using the existing frame that holds on the door of the case, I marked 1/2" in from the inside edge of it and drilled holes in all the corners so they would be rounded. (remember that at this point you want to drill your holes with a 1/2" drill bit and make it so the outside of the bit matches up with your lines.) Then cut the acrylic sheet to fit the inside of the frame (not your cutout).
       
      From there you need to use a jigsaw to cut along your lines and connect your 4 holes that you drilled.
       

       
      Then on to paint. I sanded all the pieces with an orbital sander then used a can of primer and did 3 coats of primer on them all. Followed up with a few coats of black. I added a coat of clear to just try to keep it a little more durable but I should have just done more coats of black. To finish off the case, run some edge moulding around the side panel cut out and attach your acrylic sheet to the side panel with double sided tape. Re install your side panel frame and you are good to go!
       

       

       

       
      To mount the motherboard, I used the existing standoffs from the PowerMac G5 case (be careful here as there are two different heights of standoffs). Add in some JB weld on the base of them and a small coat around the outside of them it was ready to go. I used a GPU to line up where it goes in the case.
       

       
      Now for the final assembly. I test fit a bunch of different hardware placements but what I ended up settling on was the PSU at the bottom mounted with double sided foam tape.  All of the cables were then run up the front side of the case along the motherboard mounting tray and grouped together using zip ties. It is also important to know at this point I bought a cable from Black CH mods to use the existing IO on the front of the case with an ATX motherboard. Radiator at the front with pump/res combo unit mounted to it using the EK uni bracket. I secured the radiator to the front with car grade double sided emblem tape. If you have ever used this stuff you know it is not going anywhere. I reused the existing hard drive cage from the case and secured it to the top also using emblem tape.
       
       

       
      One of the most important steps in this process is the running of tubes (since it is watercooled and all). There are only 4 tubes in this build thanks to the plethora of fittings I have in the case. I don't know if I listed them all but any time you do a hardline watercooled build it is important to have a handful of rotary 90s and dual rotary 90s on hand. I tried to do it without them in my last version of this build using the NZXT H440 and couldn't get my tubing runs to look like I wanted.
       

       
      Fill up the system, leak check, then hook up the power and you are good to go. I added in a RGB light strip and hooked it up to the ASUS aura sync header for a little bit more color. This process was a long time coming and took almost a month from idea phase to final assembly.
       
       

       

       

       
      I spent a long time without a working home PC but man was it worth it! Thanks for reading!
    • By crazyeye1
      Hello guys, I just got a Power Mac G5 complete desktop and I would love to tear it down and install all new hardware and make the best hackintosh I could possibly create.
      I removed all the components and decided to keep the drive bay, bluetooth and wifi wires (maybe I'll toss them) and screws (why not!?)
       
      The only thing this case is missing is the side panel, its gone and was gone from when I found it, as well as the G5 heat sink cover (damnit!)
       
      Does anyone know where I could get a replacement cover or would I have to design and fabricate a cover from scratch? Any help is appreciated of course and I had no idea where to post this question considering all the main forums didn't quiet fit so I apologize in advanced.
       

    • By kerimek
      Hi All,
       
      It's my first post on this forum, so greetings for all
       
      Few weeks ago, I've decided to do my first G5 PC Case mod, installing OS X (and Windows) on it. I'm something in the middle of the mod (my priority is to keep the inside look of the MacMod as close as the G5 was), and I wrote everything down on my blog site (its in Polish, but there are a lot of photos). I'm not sure if I can put a link in this post, so please enlighten me, if I can do this
       
      My target is:
      Intel i5 4670k (it'll be overclocked) (for now) GPU built in CPU (HD 4600) MOBO MSI B85M-G43 16GB RAM – Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600Mhz SSD Samsung EVO 850 250GB (System OS X) SSD Crucial MX100 240GB (System Windows 10) HDD WD Blue 2,5″ 750GB (Time machine, storage) PSU Thermaltake 530W Modular  
      Here are some photos from stage 1 - dissassembly of the G5.
       

    • By markuslagan06
      I have seen successful installation of El Capitan on z170x g7 with skylake but I cannot manage to setup final my hackintosh after fresh installation of El Capitan.
       
      My build:
      Gigabyte Z170X Gaming G1, Socket 1151 Bios F6
      GTX Titan X 12 gb
      64gb Geil Dragon Ram (16gbx4)
      i7-6700k 4.0 ghz Skylake
      3TB Seagate Sata
       
      Accomplishments:
      Configured the bios to make El Capitan USB Installer bootable from scratch.
      Able to create bootable usb using Clover
      Patch kext but I don't know which ones are important and/or necessary
      Able to boot from the HD with El Capitan with usb
      Working Audio
      Working USB, 3.0 not checked
      Bluetooth works
       
       
      Problems:
      Display is showing but in lowest resolution (so slow)
      Wifi not working
      I have no proper DSDT, AML for my mobo.
      Don't know which set of kexts would be appropriate and necessary.
       
      Anyone, please help. Attachment of their dsdt and kexts for the same would be appreciated.
      I'm just an average user of hackintosh. Please give me a guide, thanks.
       
       
      Note: I have successfully installed El Capitan in my old build: Gigabyte EP35-DS3R, QuadCore 775 Intel 2.5ghz, 8gb ram, 80gb seagate, msi 9600gt with no problems and all are working.
    • By IGotKernelPanic
      Hi!
       
       
      Here is the connector info for my laptop's LVDS display:


      01020300 10070000 10070000 05030000 02000000 30000000

      What is 0102 (03 is the number of ports), 1007, 02000000 and 30000000?
       
      What i need to change to remove artifacts?
       
      Here is the full connector table:
       
      01020300 10070000 10070000 05030000 02000000 30000000 04060000 00080000 06000000 06020000 00010000 09000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000 FFFFFFFF
       
      And its the original what is in AppleIntelSNBGrahpicsFB:
       
      01020400 10070000 10070000 05030000 02000000 30000000 02050000 00040000 07000000 03040000 00040000 09000000 04060000 00040000 09000000 01020100 10070000 10070000 05030000 02000000 30000000 00000000 01000000 40000000 00000000 01000000 40000000 00000000 01000000 40000000 00020300 00000000 FFFFFFFF
×