On The Way To A Hackitosh I Failed 1st Grade

[HappyHackintosh]

After no success installing OSX86 on a Dell Vostro 1500 or an HP Pavillion a6230n,I decided to build from scratch based upon GA-H55-USB3, i5 650 & Geforce 8400. plus 4GB RAM, HD, Burner etc. The build doesn't work at all.The PC turns off in seconds after I push restart then repeats until switched off. The case fans, the PSU fan, the CPU retail fan all run for that short period. I removed everything from the build except PSU, MB, RAM and CPU. Same problem on 2-3 secs off repeats. I tested the PSU connected only to the drive for load by shorting green & black wires of ATX. The PSU runs continuously. I ask for help here because many or most of you have built PCs [this isn't my first either]. Does the test prove the PSU is not the cause of the behavior? If so must it be the GA-H55 MB? How can I avoid finger pointing by the two manufacturers? I purchased everything 10 days ago from Microcenter Retail Store but haven't returned either the MB or PSU for fear that if the replacement doesn't fix the problem they won't exchange the remaining component.

 

Your experience with such technical problems can help me choose the best ways to proceed with Microcenter and/or the manufacturers.

[MacUser2525]

After no success installing OSX86 on a Dell Vostro 1500 or an HP Pavillion a6230n,I decided to build from scratch based upon GA-H55-USB3, i5 650 & Geforce 8400. plus 4GB RAM, HD, Burner etc. The build doesn't work at all.The PC turns off in seconds after I push restart then repeats until switched off. The case fans, the PSU fan, the CPU retail fan all run for that short period. I removed everything from the build except PSU, MB, RAM and CPU. Same problem on 2-3 secs off repeats. I tested the PSU connected only to the drive for load by shorting green & black wires of ATX. The PSU runs continuously. I ask for help here because many or most of you have built PCs [this isn't my first either]. Does the test prove the PSU is not the cause of the behavior? If so must it be the GA-H55 MB? How can I avoid finger pointing by the two manufacturers? I purchased everything 10 days ago from Microcenter Retail Store but haven't returned either the MB or PSU for fear that if the replacement doesn't fix the problem they won't exchange the remaining component.

 

Your experience with such technical problems can help me choose the best ways to proceed with Microcenter and/or the manufacturers.

 

Well looking at the support page for the revision one of that motherboard depending on which revision of the i5 650 you have you need either the original F1 BIOS for the C2 or F5 for the K0 chip. Now if you have the K0 chip and don't have the F5 BIOS or later on that board then that will give you the symptoms you describe the board will not be able to boot because it does not recognize the chip installed. If you have the revision two of the board according to its page you need the F5 BIOS installed for both chip revisions which is the first listed for it so probably the original shipped with that board it should just work for it. So you need to determine board and chip revision this you can do on your own, if you find revision one board and K0 chip then you should contact the service department at the store and ask them to put a testing chip in that motherboard and make sure the BIOS is at at least the F5 so you can indeed boot with your parts.

 

Edit: You don't mention it but when testing the booting was the board inside the case already. I ask because what I always do on new build is put the board on top of its box with the anti-static bag beneath it with the video, ram and power supply hooked up and short the pins to start the board. If you see it posting here then you know if it does not once inside the case then you have a short somewhere in your mounting inside the case which will also give the symptoms you describe here.

[HappyHackintosh]

WOW! I didn't even conceive it was so complicated.

First the easier part- Yes tested in the case. Do I start the board outside the case by shorting the power sw and restart sw pins on the MB?" If so, I'll do that too.

 

An update: Learned on the net that I could power the board with a 4pin 12v connector. I verified that by reading the MB guide[yet again] and further net research. I have a "500 watt" PSU [never used & funny story]. This 500 watt PSU has a 24 pin ATX & a 4 pin 12v connector. I connected this PSU to the board. Same result. Runs 2-3 secs stops restarts etc.

 

Secondly: About the conflict. I have a Version 2.0 board. It's screened on the board. The CPU that I have has a lot of info on the box label. Maybe some of it will suggest to you that I have/don't the INCOMPATIBILITY PROBLEM.

 

The i5-650 was mfg 10/05/2010 in Malaysia. Version E97869-001 The label also says Product Code BX80616i5650. MM# 908512. FPO/Batch # L028B380. S-spec: SLBTJ. it has an EAN & UPC number too.

 

Thanks very much for your expert help. I really am a returning2childhood mid-70 year old. I'm trying to learn and this forum has taught me much but not yet enough.

[MacUser2525]

WOW! I didn't even conceive it was so complicated.

First the easier part- Yes tested in the case. Do I start the board outside the case by shorting the power sw and restart sw pins on the MB?" If so, I'll do that too.

 

To start the board outside the case you find the two pins that connect to the power switch usually colour coded red if my memory serves me correctly, here you take a screw driver or such and quickly touch those two pins this will short/complete the circuit like when you push the power button thus powering up the board to shut it off just turn off the power supply with the rocker switch on the back of it.

 

An update: Learned on the net that I could power the board with a 4pin 12v connector. I verified that by reading the MB guide[yet again] and further net research. I have a "500 watt" PSU [never used & funny story]. This 500 watt PSU has a 24 pin ATX & a 4 pin 12v connector. I connected this PSU to the board. Same result. Runs 2-3 secs stops restarts etc.

 

Don't know about that idea they have that eight pin connector on there for a reason it delivers twice the power of a four pin and these boards/chips take a lot of power this can cause the problem you see here as well with the board not getting enough power. A 500w is what I would consider bare minimum and that would only be if it was from a quality brand name manufacturer who used the proper components inside to ensure stable operation at the higher load that power supply will have to deliver due it being on the smallish side. Now just what power supplies do you have that you are using for this brand/model?

 

Secondly: About the conflict. I have a Version 2.0 board. It's screened on the board. The CPU that I have has a lot of info on the box label. Maybe some of it will suggest to you that I have/don't the INCOMPATIBILITY PROBLEM.

 

Yes you are good there then that chip is listed as supported by the F5 BIOS that is the lowest version available on the download page which should have been the shipping version on that board.

 

The i5-650 was mfg 10/05/2010 in Malaysia. Version E97869-001 The label also says Product Code BX80616i5650. MM# 908512. FPO/Batch # L028B380. S-spec: SLBTJ. it has an EAN & UPC number too.

 

The S-spec tells you it all a Google search on it leads to this as the first page hit you have a K0.

 

http://www.cpu-world.com/sspec/SL/SLBTJ.html

 

Thanks very much for your expert help. I really am a returning2childhood mid-70 year old. I'm trying to learn and this forum has taught me much but not yet enough.

 

Your welcome you will get it eventually there are only so many things than can be wrong unless you have fried the chip/memory with static which would be unusual it is just some small little thing most likely.

 

Edit: It may seem obvious but you have connected the CPU fan to its proper connector right?

[HappyHackintosh]

GREAT NEWS THAT I DON'T HAVE CPU - MB CONFLICT.

 

I'm very interested in something you said - shorting the POWER SWITCH to START the PC. My case has 2 switches. POWER & RESET. When I push the POWER SW nothing happens. It's only when I push the RESET SW that the PC starts momentarily. If I push the POWER SW during that brief startup it seems to turn off the PC[then it restarts automatically in a couple of secs].

Is this POWER SW vs. RESET SW meaningful here? I swapped the two switches at the header on the MB. Thought maybe the case mfg. [Antec 300] had an error. The behavior of the 2 buttons switched exactly. No insight for me there.

 

Re my PSU: The PSU I will use with the PC is an OCZ 700watt MODXSTREAM-PRO. The PSU for my little test [that exhibited the same momentary PC startup] is a brand X type "E Power Technology" I wouldn't/won't use it with this MB.

 

If I ever get the PC working [no I don't dispair YET]I plan to install a Galaxy GeForce 8400GS 512. From reading the forum it seems that makes OSX86 easier.I am not a gamer. The 8400 awaits a proper running PC. I read that the i5 650 in combo with the GA-H55-USB3 MB includes a working video. There are video connectors on the MB. That internal video is not supported by Mac yet nor has anyone reported using it. It reports as a GeForce 6100 I read. Supposedly recent OSX86 distros don't work with the 6100.

 

The CPU fans works while the PC runs. The connection on the MB is one of those called "idiot proof". It does look like I connected the fan correctly to the correct MB 4pin.

 

There is something on the MB header adjacent to the power switch called Chassis Intrusion Header[CI]. It connects to some device that detects if case has been opened [optional]. When used it seems to report to BIOS menu and its value could be programmed if wanted. I have NOT tried shorting the 2 pins of the CI. The MB user guide is silent on any need to short it if it's not used.

 

I have not yet removed the MB from the case & tried that. I am intrigued with the POWER SW vs. RESET SW issue. I don't understand what could be wrong there. All of my former PCs, only had/have a reset button & a power supply switch on the read panel. For them reset turns PC on/off.

 

What do you suggest I look for next?

 

Again I am very thankful for your help. Hopefully with your expertise it will be a PC soon.

[MacUser2525]

GREAT NEWS THAT I DON'T HAVE CPU - MB CONFLICT.

 

I'm very interested in something you said - shorting the POWER SWITCH to START the PC. My case has 2 switches. POWER & RESET. When I push the POWER SW nothing happens. It's only when I push the RESET SW that the PC starts momentarily. If I push the POWER SW during that brief startup it seems to turn off the PC[then it restarts automatically in a couple of secs].

Is this POWER SW vs. RESET SW meaningful here? I swapped the two switches at the header on the MB. Thought maybe the case mfg. [Antec 300] had an error. The behavior of the 2 buttons switched exactly. No insight for me there.

 

Definitely strange the power switch should be the one starting the computer with the reset doing just that restarting the machine like you describe the power switch doing when it was pressed in the first instance before you switched it around.

 

Re my PSU: The PSU I will use with the PC is an OCZ 700watt MODXSTREAM-PRO. The PSU for my little test [that exhibited the same momentary PC startup] is a brand X type "E Power Technology" I wouldn't/won't use it with this MB.

 

I prefer single rail design but that OCZ seems resaonable enough 25a on both its 12v rails so it should be good.

 

If I ever get the PC working [no I don't dispair YET]I plan to install a Galaxy GeForce 8400GS 512. From reading the forum it seems that makes OSX86 easier.I am not a gamer. The 8400 awaits a proper running PC. I read that the i5 650 in combo with the GA-H55-USB3 MB includes a working video. There are video connectors on the MB. That internal video is not supported by Mac yet nor has anyone reported using it. It reports as a GeForce 6100 I read. Supposedly recent OSX86 distros don't work with the 6100.

 

Doubt that it reports as a Geforce that is an Intel chip not nVidia maybe a 3100 which is an integrated video from Intel.

 

The CPU fans works while the PC runs. The connection on the MB is one of those called "idiot proof". It does look like I connected the fan correctly to the correct MB 4pin.

 

Good that would cause the problem you describe if not connected correctly the board would shut down to prevent damage to the chip if it detected what would be a CPU fan failure without it connected.

 

There is something on the MB header adjacent to the power switch called Chassis Intrusion Header[CI]. It connects to some device that detects if case has been opened [optional]. When used it seems to report to BIOS menu and its value could be programmed if wanted. I have NOT tried shorting the 2 pins of the CI. The MB user guide is silent on any need to short it if it's not used.

 

That is best ignored if not connecting it to its proper chassis connector.

 

I have not yet removed the MB from the case & tried that. I am intrigued with the POWER SW vs. RESET SW issue. I don't understand what could be wrong there. All of my former PCs, only had/have a reset button & a power supply switch on the read panel. For them reset turns PC on/off.

 

What do you suggest I look for next?

 

Again I am very thankful for your help. Hopefully with your expertise it will be a PC soon.

 

The reset should always be doing that ie. when machine is running if you push it the machine should instantly reboot. Now I am thinking it is time to take the board out of the case along with the OCZ power supply get out its box and anti-static bag put the whole thing on top it then short the power pin connector to confirm that it will boot this way. BTW do you have digital camera so you could maybe take a couple of shots as to how this is all connected together so I can see it?

[HappyHackintosh]

I will take it out of the case & test it. I'll take photos before I do that also. I'll reduce them to web size. I haven't ever used any online photo server. Would you like me to email them to you?

[MacUser2525]

I will take it out of the case & test it. I'll take photos before I do that also. I'll reduce them to web size. I haven't ever used any online photo server. Would you like me to email them to you?

 

Yes and no need to reduce the size the more detail I can see the better, the address is scormier AT gmx.net as long as the attachments are less than 10mb it is good if it is necessary then send multiple emails.

[HcMtnBiker]

If you're looking for things you might have done wrong the main one with those symptoms is not placing PCB risers between the board and the case, or something else causing inappropriate grounding. Otherwise I would try to make sure all my parts are good.

[HappyHackintosh]

If you're looking for things you might have done wrong the main one with those symptoms is not placing PCB risers between the board and the case, or something else causing inappropriate grounding. Otherwise I would try to make sure all my parts are good.

 

The Motherboard came with brass risers. I used them. They seem to not only keep the MB off the case but also grounded it too where it was supposed to be grounded.The out of case test I just completed deals with that issue, I think.

 

There are at least 2 problems. I found only one. Previously the POWER SWITCH had no action at all. I had used the Reset Switch. I just found that the Power Switch on the case doesn't work. I used a ohm meter across the 2 pin connector that goes to the power switch's MB header. Pressing the Power Switch button on the case DOES NOT SHORT the 2 pin contacts as it should. I fashioned a push button switch from a 2 pin connector and button I had. Pushing my button temporarily shorts the 2 POWER SWITCH pins on the MB. Unfortunately that doesn't solve the major problem. Now pushing my power sw button starts the PC. However it only runs a few seconds and cuts off then repeats as it did when I used the Reset sw to turn the PC on.

 

I have now removed the MB and PSU from the case. I placed them on the plastic bag in which the MB came packed.

 

In the meantime I received a test sequence to follow from Gigabyte. I had been doing the same all along except Gigabyte said to remove & inspect the CPU for damaged pins. They said to test with only a single RAM module. They also said to remove the CMOS battery and short the CMOS pins. I did that. I have not removed the CPU. The thermal adhesive that came with my retail CPU is quite tenacious. I am afraid of doing real damage trying to remove it. The Intel picture removal instructions just indicate to reverse the install steps. They don't show how to deal with the adhesive

 

Most recent test

With the MB placed on its protective plastic shipping bag,I connected the PSU to the 24 pin ATX and the 8pin 12 volt connectors on the MB. Only a single RAM module is installed. [i have done many tests with/without RAM]. I shorted the 2 pins of the Power Switch on the MB. Same failure behavior. The PC starts, runs 2-3 seconds, [CPU fan runs then] turns off and repeats. What does someone have to do to get a MB exchanged in such a circumstance?

 

For those who have followed my lack of success I hope you have at least learned to understand "little" strangeness" like the power switch not starting the PC should be considered very important. Otherwise there has only been frustration, not much learning. Oh! I just lied! I have learned about potential incompatibility between a MB and a supposedly compatible CPU. The MB version and CPU details need to be checked for compatibility in depth. Next time I'll know that. If there is a next time.

I have also learned, thus far, from the Gigabyte website that you cannot use 4 RAM modules in the GA-H55-USB3 unless they are single sided. I'm sure you know that I bought double sided ones. I'll need to replace them if ever I want greater amounts of RAM than 4GB.

 

I hope you experts have a breakthough suggestion.

 

My wife did say "Why do you need another PC?"

[MacUser2525]

The Motherboard came with brass risers. I used them. They seem to not only keep the MB off the case but also grounded it too where it was supposed to be grounded.The out of case test I just completed deals with that issue, I think.

 

There are at least 2 problems. I found only one. Previously the POWER SWITCH had no action at all. I had used the Reset Switch. I just found that the Power Switch on the case doesn't work. I used a ohm meter across the 2 pin connector that goes to the power switch's MB header. Pressing the Power Switch button on the case DOES NOT SHORT the 2 pin contacts as it should. I fashioned a push button switch from a 2 pin connector and button I had. Pushing my button temporarily shorts the 2 POWER SWITCH pins on the MB. Unfortunately that doesn't solve the major problem. Now pushing my power sw button starts the PC. However it only runs a few seconds and cuts off then repeats as it did when I used the Reset sw to turn the PC on.

 

Well that is impressive a dead power switch new out of the box... Well sh*t does happen but a case and what looks like another part in the same purchase that is not good.

 

I have now removed the MB and PSU from the case. I placed them on the plastic bag in which the MB came packed.

 

In the meantime I received a test sequence to follow from Gigabyte. I had been doing the same all along except Gigabyte said to remove & inspect the CPU for damaged pins. They said to test with only a single RAM module. They also said to remove the CMOS battery and short the CMOS pins. I did that. I have not removed the CPU. The thermal adhesive that came with my retail CPU is quite tenacious. I am afraid of doing real damage trying to remove it. The Intel picture removal instructions just indicate to reverse the install steps. They don't show how to deal with the adhesive

 

Most recent test

With the MB placed on its protective plastic shipping bag,I connected the PSU to the 24 pin ATX and the 8pin 12 volt connectors on the MB. Only a single RAM module is installed. [i have done many tests with/without RAM]. I shorted the 2 pins of the Power Switch on the MB. Same failure behavior. The PC starts, runs 2-3 seconds, [CPU fan runs then] turns off and repeats. What does someone have to do to get a MB exchanged in such a circumstance?

 

That is not good at all see below.

 

For those who have followed my lack of success I hope you have at least learned to understand "little" strangeness" like the power switch not starting the PC should be considered very important. Otherwise there has only been frustration, not much learning. Oh! I just lied! I have learned about potential incompatibility between a MB and a supposedly compatible CPU. The MB version and CPU details need to be checked for compatibility in depth. Next time I'll know that. If there is a next time.

 

Most definitely that is always the first thing to do make sure that the parts you get are going to work well together.

 

I have also learned, thus far, from the Gigabyte website that you cannot use 4 RAM modules in the GA-H55-USB3 unless they are single sided. I'm sure you know that I bought double sided ones. I'll need to replace them if ever I want greater amounts of RAM than 4GB.

 

They may mean the high density ram I doubt you have bought that and just because you have ram on both sides of the module does not mean double sided ram. I cannot count chips from looking at the modules in the pictures you sent because of the heat spreaders but unless you can count 16 of them underneath then it is not double sided.

 

I hope you experts have a breakthough suggestion.

 

My wife did say "Why do you need another PC?"

 

I think not with it out of the machine and still not wanting to work now we are down to four possibilities one or more of the four components is dead. What needs to happen is the components need to be tested in known working setup ie. ram put into working machine if it goes then it is fine same with the CPU and power supply if all these work then motherboard is possibly dead. It needs to be tested with known working components that were not previously tried with it just to eliminate them being incompatible for whatever reason. Which strange as it may sound it does happen some parts just don't want to work together but the more likely idea is that one of them is dead.

 

Now instead of wasting further time on this I think it is time to take all four of them ram, ps, mb and processor to the store and tell them politely you paid good money and you would like to walk out of there with the same as you paid for except you want to have it booting in front of you before you leave and you would like a replacement for the defective case which BTW you want them to make sure is not the same as the last they gave you as well. Looking at the pictures you sent me other than a little cable clutter in there I could see nothing wrong with the way you had it in there so that is/was not a problem.

[HappyHackintosh]

Well that is impressive a dead power switch new out of the box... Well sh*t does happen but a case and what looks like another part in the same purchase that is not good.

 

 

 

That is not good at all see below.

 

 

 

Most definitely that is always the first thing to do make sure that the parts you get are going to work well together.

 

 

 

They may mean the high density ram I doubt you have bought that and just because you have ram on both sides of the module does not mean double sided ram. I cannot count chips from looking at the modules in the pictures you sent because of the heat spreaders but unless you can count 16 of them underneath then it is not double sided.

 

 

 

I think not with it out of the machine and still not wanting to work now we are down to four possibilities one or more of the four components is dead. What needs to happen is the components need to be tested in known working setup ie. ram put into working machine if it goes then it is fine same with the CPU and power supply if all these work then motherboard is possibly dead. It needs to be tested with known working components that were not previously tried with it just to eliminate them being incompatible for whatever reason. Which strange as it may sound it does happen some parts just don't want to work together but the more likely idea is that one of them is dead.

 

Now instead of wasting further time on this I think it is time to take all four of them ram, ps, mb and processor to the store and tell them politely you paid good money and you would like to walk out of there with the same as you paid for except you want to have it booting in front of you before you leave and you would like a replacement for the defective case which BTW you want them to make sure is not the same as the last they gave you as well. Looking at the pictures you sent me other than a little cable clutter in there I could see nothing wrong with the way you had it in there so that is/was not a problem.

 

THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT I AM GOING TO DO. The Gigabyte technical folks agreed that the PSU tests seem it is the MB that is defective. In an email they said that because the purchase was within 30 days the store is to make the exchange. I will take a transcript of the Gigabyte emails with me to the store. I have asked the store if they want me to bring in everything except the case for their testing I am awaiting a return call. I will bring all the components in so I can as you say walk out with it working even if they say don't bother.

 

OBW: Maybe I am too nice. That sometimes comes with age. I have broken off and repair the plastic clips that hold the faceplate on the case so I was considering just asking the mfg. for a replacement part. It looks easy to install. Maybe I WILL just ask MicroCenter for a case replacement.

 

I will close out this thread which I hope to be useful to someone who builds a PC for OSX86 and it doesn't work with a post of results from the store visit [i hope it will be the proper finish]

 

Thanks for your help. It has they say, been a "learning situation" for me.

[MacUser2525]

THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT I AM GOING TO DO. The Gigabyte technical folks agreed that the PSU tests seem it is the MB that is defective. In an email they said that because the purchase was within 30 days the store is to make the exchange. I will take a transcript of the Gigabyte emails with me to the store. I have asked the store if they want me to bring in everything except the case for their testing I am awaiting a return call. I will bring all the components in so I can as you say walk out with it working even if they say don't bother.

 

That is your best course of action don't let them put you off on the idea they have given you a bad board so just tell them for peace of mind you want to see it all working together.

 

OBW: Maybe I am too nice. That sometimes comes with age. I have broken off and repair the plastic clips that hold the faceplate on the case so I was considering just asking the mfg. for a replacement part. It looks easy to install. Maybe I WILL just ask MicroCenter for a case replacement.

 

Ah forgot to push down them tabs they use to hold it on it is trivial to put it back on with new face just line it up and push it on they should just slide into place. You may as well get them to replace it though as the switch is still broke right?

 

I will close out this thread which I hope to be useful to someone who builds a PC for OSX86 and it doesn't work with a post of results from the store visit [i hope it will be the proper finish]

 

Thanks for your help. It has they say, been a "learning situation" for me.

 

Your welcome hopefully they get it sorted out and if they start being idiots about it and you paid via credit card then you can tell them you will get the company to issue a charge back against them for the defective merchandise that usually gets their attention.

[HappyHackintosh]

THE REPLACEMENT MOTHERBOARD WORKED I Now have a working PC hardware.

After over 3 hours [on a weekday] at the computer store, I got a replacement GA-H55-USB3.

I asked & they put my CPU & memory sticks into the new MB. I asked them to test that it would boot since I was at the store. I didn't want a another visit there. They agreed. They found one of my 2 OCZ 2GB memory sticks was defective. Back to another department to get a replacement stick. More time. Back at home I tested bootup with the MB,CPU, RAM & PSU.before installing in the case. Everything seems OK. I installed into my case. It boots.

 

I had anticipated some delay in getting a replacement MB at the store. That's why I was trying to identify which build components were the no-boot problem. I was surprised to find out that the case's Power Switch was also defective. I have a Support request in to the manufacturer because I don't want to have to uninstall/re-install into the case.

 

Summarizing: the case, the MB and a stick of RAM, each were defective. Unlikely but it happened.

 

I'm now ready to setup the Bios and install. I haven't decided if I want to install MS Windows 7 on my PC in a dual boot configuration with OSX86. That decision might affect my choice of "distros" or tools to install Snow Leopard.

 

Hopefully my GA-H55-USB3 MB and Geforce 8400 video card will provide me an OOB [out of the box - wishful thinking?] install.

 

I learned a lot chasing down these hardware issues. My big lesson: I need to search the forums to be sure that there is REAL compatibility among components before I buy.

 

Thanks to all for your help.