Jump to content

596 posts in this topic

Recommended Posts

Good luck!

Why? something went wrong with yours?

Ok. Can you give me an idea of what we're talking for shipping?

About 5€, traceable shipping

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just FYI, shipping to the U.S. via priority mail, is ~ $15.

I let you know when the cables are ready, in case you want one


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
I let you know when the cables are ready, in case you want one



Hi BlackCH, is it possible to have a complete cable's photo?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi BlackCH, is it possible to have a complete cable's photo?


I'll put a picture as soon as I have the firstone ready. Im still waiting for some components

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi everyone,

Im about making a small batch of G5 front connector to ATX cables. So they will have the Apple 18 pin connector in one end and the standard ATX (1 pin power button, 1 pin power led, 5 pin USB, 2x5 Firewire, 2x5 audio) in the other end. The will be 60 cm long wrapped in cable sleeving and finished with heatshrinked rubber tubes. The cost of it still have to be calculated as I didnt buy all the components yet but I estimate to be around 20-25 euros plus shipping each cable. About the payment method: I wont take paypal unless the buyer pays also the commission paypal charges for reciving money (seems to be 3,4% + €0,35 EUR).


I'll be doing by 5 cables at the time



I would like to know whats the demand. If anyone is actually interested please PM me.





Today I recieved the most important components: 18 pin connectors


Hi BlackCH, I would love to have one too :(

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd take one too.




As far as I know, there are different types of connectors, though. Depending on the model.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

What's the shipping for Belgium ? which is in Europe : a lot but exactly ?

And what if I want to do it myself ? where can I buy the connector ? I tried to use IDE cable but there is too much space between each pins.

Where do you buy the plastic connector from ?



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

kool just ordered 20 connectors and 400 clips.. now to source some sleeving and heat shrinks and i'll be ready make some also.


Been meaning to do this for a while now (Stealth Mac demands it)


Suggestions for sourcing cable sleeving? does it come in a roll are something?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to be making my first batch this week. If you're interested let me know.


The main problem with making these cables in mass quantities is that you have to have the right tooling. If you try and use a pair of pliers for the header connectors, you soon find out why no one wants to provide these. They are a pain in the a**. The Molex crimper for the 18 pin connector that goes to the existing G5 front panel board is $290!!



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can someone please tell me what is the best gauge wire and the best crimp pin to use for the 18 pin connector? I have all the neccessary items coming soon to me all I need to know is the best wire gauge, the supplier recommended 24awg copper wire can that be right? I am a newbie to all this but I will try anything once.


Any help will be much appreciated I am anxious to get going



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By le0nardwashingt0n
      Like many others who have undertaken this mod, I reviewed others’ work before me and was inspired by their designs. I want to acknowledge chaosdesigns and Porto412 in particular (from the site that shall not be mentioned).
      Overall I’m really happy with how the build came out and it looks so much better than the Corsair 200r case I had been using. My goal was to have a stock Apple G5 look from the outside and inside something that was clean looking, simple, inexpensive, and organized. I really wanted to utilize the meshed aluminum to maximize airflow. Also, I live in a small city apartment so I don’t have access to many tools or a dedicated workspace.

      Before I get started on the build I need to explain how I came to be in possession of this case. One day my girlfriend and I were driving down the street and saw a G5 tower sitting on the sidewalk! No joke. Before I claimed it I tried to find the owner but no one was home. Other than a cosmetic scratch on the door side it was in great shape.

      First task was to gut the unit. I stupidly threw away a few parts that I later could have used. Looking back I would have kept everything, every screw, cable, electronic part, antenna, everything until I was finished with the build. I was surprised to learn how many different parts can be reused or converted. Since there are many other guides and pics of gutting on the internet, I'll just show what I did from that point on.

      I wanted to keep as much of the rear panel intact as possible, so I just cut out as much as I could towards the side of the stock rear fan assembly and to the other side's last row of holes. I wanted to keep the stock fan grills and attached 2 - 92mm fans to that mounting with screws attached from the inside of the grill mounts between the grill assembly and the grill. To do this I just got a mini hack saw, some 3:1 lubricant, and filed the edges. This wasn’t the prettiest process but it got the job done and the file smoothed and cleaned the edges nicely.

      I used JB Weld to attach the original short standoffs from the G5 case. It took some figuring out where to glue the standoffs and I couldn’t have done it without this old mATX mobo I got (free) from a local computer store. In retrospect I would have waited to use my mobo because this one didn’t have PCI-E and I couldn’t actually put in the graphics card. When I went to fit my graphics card it barely fit and that was only after I kept the mobo screws loose before putting the graphics card in then tightening them down afterwards.

      The standoffs without the mobo installed. In retrospect I would have put the JB Weld on the standoffs then put the mobo in place, then go back over the top with JB Weld to secure everything. I did end up going back and covering over the tops of the bottom feet of the standoffs. I hope it’s not going anywhere.

      For the fans in the front I first tried The Laser Hive’s 120mm acrylic mounting, but I didn’t like how it fit and it covered up the G5 mesh. I wanted to have good airflow and not cover the whole front with acrylic. I looked at a lot of other builds and I didn’t see anyone use do what I did. Basically I utilized the existing screws and nuts that attach the case together. I found that one brand of picture frame mounts fit perfectly over the standoffs on the far side of the door and another brand fits on the top row. These ones in the picture are not what I ended up going with but they demonstrate the concept. I ended up replacing these with silver ones with larger hinges to match the case. I then used the blue locktite to make sure any vibrations wouldn’t loosen them up. As the picture shows I used zipties to make a web to hold the fans in place. One the fans were in place I ziptied them tightly at the four corners. The fans don't vibrate at all and they can't be seen from the outside.

      Here’s a picture of the door side. Sorry the picture’s a little blurry but they’re there. The nuts are small but there was enough thread to get a good grip.

      One of the apple fans for a test. I ended up using 2 - 120mm fans in it’s place. Because the zipties are light in color they aren’t noticeable from the front of the case.

      I mounted my PSU on the bottom, set a little back from the rear so I can reach in and use the on/off switch. Right now I just have the cord running through the hole. I might make a PSU tail for a more finished at some point but I want to get the right gauge cable. The grey apple one that matched the case was much thinner than the one from my PSU and to be safe I didn’t want to use that.
      Again I cut this hole with a hand saw and filed it round(ish). Cutting a round how with straight tools is difficult but it’s good enough for the bottom.

      Another angle of the PSU intake and rear panel. To mount the PSU I used one of G5 PSU holes and drilled the other three holes that matched the bottom of my PSU. On the bottom of my PSU are 4 screws that hold the fan in place. I unscrewed three (four and the fan would have come undone) and used those to attach the PSU to the case. Worked better than expected and is very secure!

      Here’s a good view of the top shelf and the small zipties that hold the fan in place. I used the G5 hdd cage to hold my two SSDs (I dual boot off of separate SSDs). With the fan right there, they remain very chilly!

      I was test fitting the mobo and new HDD tray caddy rack. I got this one one eBay for $23. It’s very simple but does the job. I just took out the top shelf, drilled four holes and attached it with some nuts and bolts from a hardware store. In between I put a few rubber gaskets and weather stripping for vibration dampening. This cage might have worked too.

      Here’s the completed build, but obviously before managing the wires. I kept the top shelf basically the same as the G5 but put a new 80mm fan up there. I only needed to drill one additional hole to allow me to use zipties to fasten the fan down. I used some thin weather stripping I got at Home Depot for vibration dampening under the fan and around the PSU intake. Also, in this picture you can see where I had to attach the front panel from my old case. I have since installed the BlackCH Mods front panel cable. That works great, now I have a functioning power button, USB, and audio.
      Also in this picture visible are the two 92mm fans I put in the rear. All I did was remove the original G5 fans and the clip in mounting system. Then I unscrewed the grill from the case. Those screws are tiny and strip easily so be careful!. Then I lined up the new fans and drilled holes to screw through the back inside. When the grill is reattached the screws are covered and the fans are securely mounted. With the fans at the front intaking air and the fans at the rear discharging, there’s a good cross wind over the HDDs, mobo, and GPU. I’m planning on upgrading the chip cooler. I had an H60 in my previous case but there was no way that was going to fit in this case without renovations I didn’t want to do. I’m thinking of getting this Cooler Master one. I figure it should do the job, I’m not planning on overclocking.
      I kept the DVD drive in it’s original position. It works from up there but it’s not strong enough to push the door open. I had to knock off two small plastic bumps on the drive so the tray would fit through. I rarely use the drive so until it becomes an issue I’m just going to use a piece of tape to hold it open when I’m using it.

      This picture shows how the 4 original G5 PCI ports line up perfectly with my mATX board. The hole I cut out is a just little smaller than the mobo’s back panel but all of the ports I need access are accessible. I think only a few of the 3.5mm audio ports are blocked and the digital audio out (which I don’t use anyways because I have an Arcam rPac DAC). I figure I can go back and enlarge this if I need to.
      One other thing I tried but didn’t end up working. I bought a 2xUSB 2.0 to 10 pin header cable to connect to the mobo and put it at the very top inside of the case, above the DVD drive, hoping that my Bluetooth and mouse dongle would work from there. It seems the case does a good job of blocking signals. It was only $3.71 so I thought it might be worth a shot. Right now it’s temporarily hanging out of the back and works a lot better until I come up with a better solution.

      This image shows the completed inside of the case. I've swapped out the stock cooler with the Zalman CNPS9500 AT. It fit perfectly in the space and has lowered my temps 15 - 20C. Well worth the $35. With the cables all bundled up there's great airflow across the motherboard and graphics card. I'm really happy with how it all came out. The only other thing to fix is the bluetooth/mouse usb dongles. I was thinking about trying this (add a bluetooth card to your hackintosh), but for the time being I'm fine with the cord just coming out of the back.

      So this is the last photo of the front of the chassis. Can't see the fans at all even though they are black. I was worried they might show through a little, but they're invisible.
      The items I had to purchase for this build:
      G5 Case – Free!
      USB 2.0 cable - $3.71
      HDD Cage - $23.98
      BlackCH Mods Cable - $30.41 (25 euros)
      Acrylic sheet - $4
      Oversize printing for Acrylic Sheet - $6
      PWM power cable – $6.32
      2 – 92mm fan – $14.90
      1 – 80mm fan – Free
      Drill Bit Set - $23.92
      Anti-Static Wrist Strap - $5.99
      Optical drive mounting screws – $7.93
      Replacement Rear Grill - $8
      Stanley Mini Hacksaw - $11.05
      3:1 Lubricant - $5
      Loctite - $4.05
      Nuts and bolts - $6
      Picture frame mounts - $3.05
      Weather Stripping - $ 4
      Zalman CNPS9500 AT - $35
      Total:  $203.31
      I'm hoping to recoup some of my costs by selling my old case and H60 cooler (the one I pulled out had cracking on the tubing so Corsair is replacing the unit).
      Here's a link to the Flickr Album with larger photos.

    • By SpiderMonkey
      My old G5 PowerPC has finally received a new breath of live with a brand new Intel i7-4770K on a Gigabyte GA-Z87X-OC motherboard. Need not say that it runs like a dream even without overclocking, which of course was expected considering how slow the old system was.
      Ubuntu installed without a glitch - hands down this is the better OS, but I do need OS X installed too.
      Here, the following problem emerged - in order to install the latest Mavericks, I need MacOS 10.6.8 or above.  The old hard drive still has the 10.4.1 for PowerPC, which is of no use.  Do I really need to install Snow Leopard or Mountain Lion before installing Mavericks?  Can I use another Mac do donwoload Mavericks and create installation USB flash drive without installing an older OS first?
      My guess is that this problem has appeared here before as G5 mods are common.
      ps - the G5 mod looks brilliant and I'm very pleased with it. Totally worth the time and money spent and is a lot of fun too.  Will post some pictures when I get the optical and hard drives installed and running.
    • By jopa1200mk2
      Hi everyone!
      Firstly thanks to all the amazing people on this forum for inspiration and helping me get my Hackintosh up and running.
      This is my first case mod ever…
      Here is my system specs:
      CPU-Intel i5 3330
      MB-Gigabyte GA-Z77-DS3H
      RAM-Corsair 2X4Gb 1600 MHz
      GPU_XFX 5670 1Gb with Accelero S1 passive cooler
      SSD-Mushkin 60 Gb
      HDD-Seagate 1TB
      PSU-Chieftec 400W
      LG DVD/CD RW
      Apple Bluetooth module
      Apple Wi-Fi module
      Antec cooler H2O 620
      2X 120 mm Fan 500 RPM
      1X 80 mm Fan 1000 RPM
      G5 CASE
      OS-OS X ML 10.8.3
      What I wanted to do with this project is minimalistic and clean mod with "perfect" cable management
      The hardest part of the job was making the back of the enclosure in which I used a 1.5 mm thick aluminum sheet with inner rear plate of my old ATX case. All aluminum work is home-made.

      Power supply is put together in the original PSU case with the Hard and SSD drive, and that combination is cooled with the original G5 60 mm fans.This may seem strange combination putting HDD and PSU in one case, and I was a little bit skeptic, but for now everything is working great and temperatures not exceed 28 Celsius

      Mount for front fans is made of aluminum profile.
      Case interior is lined with black self adhesive foil.

      The end result is here, the configuration is very fast and quiet, and I am very satisfied with my first G5 case mod

      Next thing what I want to do is replace power supply with better one (maybe 500-600W) and buy a new graphic card (AMD 7xxx)
      Thanks for watching
    • By Mustachio
      Hi guys,
      I never put together a computer myself. I never even thought about doing a case mod myself.
      But this forum was such an inspiration i couldn't resist any longer and just had to give this thing a go!
      I will try to update and keep you guys posted of any progress. I am not a native English speaker, so hopefully my english will not be all too bad.
      A few weeks ago i got myself a G5 case with a dead mobo. It was 50 euros. And in an overall good condition. Not too many scratches :wink2: . I still have all the internals if there's anyone who needs a mobo/processors/HD drive... i give them away, maybe they can help a real G5 to survive.
      I stripped the case down and now I am reading and enjoying the worklogs of many great mods that have been posted on insanelymac.com.
      I'd post some pics here, but i guess everybody knows what a stripped G5 looks like.
      from mr. BlackCh (on this very forum!) i ordered the front i/o cable, and i am expecting it to arrive pretty soon. This guy is really helpful and fast to order from, i recommend.
      from the laserhive i ordered the mAtx conversion kit + mobo tray.
      Today i ordered an OCZ modxstream 600w psu and a dvd-burner (LG).
      I stripped the original PSU housing and was considering to place the internals of my new PSU in the G5's housing. But i am a bit uncertain of electronics getting to hot or just doing something dangerous. So maybe i'll be putting the OCZ psu in the top or bottom in its original housing. In fact i am still not sure about how getting this done.
      I also got 2x92mm fans http://tweakers.net/...m-pwm-92mm.html to install them in the back of the G5 to keep things smooth and cool.
      currently i am looking at asus' Maximus V gene mAtx board, a 3570k i5 and asus' gtx 660ti.
      Don't know yet how to keep the cpu cool, i will have to see how much space i have left and how i can install intake fans.
      Do you think this is a good way to go?
      If anyone has good options for mounting fans in front of the case, or can confirm a top-mounted PSU is ok in terms of heat/temperature, i am interested to read about them.
      Thank you guys and until next time!
    • By Mr.D.
      This is going to be my work in progress page. I decided to post it here rather than on a blog, mostly because I am vein and I want people to actually see what I have done/am doing.
      I acquired 2 PowerMac G5s, both dual PPC @ 2GHz, both working systems, and it also came with a 23" Cinema Display. Long story short, it was a gift for a misunderstanding a few years back. Its good to have friends.

      I have searched and searched and then searched some more for what to do with a Hackintosh. There are a lot of good posts out there, and some really creative solutions that people have come up with. So I don't think there is a single original idea in my project, I just cherry picked what I liked the best from other mods.
      I decided to go with a mATX motherboard because I wanted to cut as little as possible, or not at all. I also decided to go with the best chipset (for LGA1155) that is available right now, the Z77. So mATX and Z77 really limited me to Gigabyte, Asus, ASRock and *ugh* BioStar. I compared the boards available and settled on the ASRock Extreme4-M. This gives me PCIe 3.0, 3 full length PCIe slots (so if Apple ever gets off heir collective duffs and supports SLI or CrossFire, then I could upgrade. It also give me USB 3.0, support for SATA III, native support for DDR3 1600 and of course, an IvyBridge Processor.

      I decided on an i5-3570k. This is the best i5 that I could get at the time, and I really like that it comes with the Intel HD4000 graphics - which is what I'm going to use for the time being, mostly because I'm cheap.

      For RAM I choose Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 - I was distracted by the blinking lights so I must NEED them...

      I bought an el-cheapotm case that came with an el-cheapotm PSU just to get Windows installed and make sure I am not retarded and can still build a PC. All of the above producs, including Windows, I bought from Newegg for around six hundred dollars. I bought a refurb Samsung Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1 Terabyte 1TB SATA / 300 7200RPM for less than seventy bucks from Computer Geeks. So for less than seven hundred dollars, I have a fully functional, near top spec machine. Now all I have to do is get it all in the case.

      I am working on an issue with motherboard sizing right now (see my other thread), but once I fix that, the JB weld comes out and I start to glue stuff down.
      More to come very soon.