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The ULTIMATE Powermac G5 Case Modification Project!


I want to know!  

69 members have voted

  1. 1. Would you "Waste" your time modding a G5 Case to fit PC Hardware

    • Eff Yeah!
      57
    • Yeah
      7
    • Maybe
      4
    • No
      0
    • Heck NO!
      1


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ASUS P8P67 Pro (Rev 3.1) Based, Mac Pro Workstation.

Modding the Powermac G5 case for standard ATX Mobo's

 

powermac_g5.png

Edit 3-8-12: Ok, I am COMPLETELY updating this thread to be more useful and more updated for all of you guys! (I will be unable to produce Kits, but I will be as in detail as I can)

 

I am still very much motivated to put this system into a Powermac G5 case, but before we can mod a case, we need a system to put it in!

 

So lets talk hardware:

 

Just Yesterday (3-7-12) I placed an order from newegg that set me back $650 with tax. Here is what the order includes:

  • ASUS P8P67 Pro Logic Board
  • Intel Core i5-2300 (To be upgraded to i7 Ivy Bridge when available)
  • ASUS ATi Radeon HD 5450 1 GB (To be upgrade to GTX 560 Ti)
  • 8GB (2x 4GB) of Kingston DDR3 1333 MHz Random Access Memory
  • Seagate Barracuda 2TB 5900RPM SATA 6GB/s HDD
  • Diablotek 550W Power Supply
  • Other Things for install (Fans for an old case, Thermal Greece, etc)

For Now I will be putting all of this into an old case I have setting in my room just to get it up and running and as time permits I will put this into a G5 case, which brings on my next point.

 

 

Powermac G5 Case Modification:

So you know that feeling that you get when I opened up that Tonka Truck you always wanted when you where a kid on Christmas Day? We that is kinda like me with my G5 case! lol

 

And As cheap as I got mine, it was just like a gift from Santa!

 

The way that I am going about the modification is going to be a minimalism as possible because I really love the look of the G5 and really don't want to take away from that!

 

I am planning on mounting the Logic Board up with the PCI slots on the rear of the G5 and Making my own extentions for the Rear I/O. I really like what Gouedi did over on ###### it is very sharp looking and not like those others that make you cringe at the sight of how ugly the case looks afterward, let face it, when I am done I want people to not be able to tell this isn't a real mac! XDs

 

Here are some pictures of what I have in mind:

 

post-538112-0-34747600-1331262545_thumb.jpg post-538112-0-76578800-1331262549_thumb.jpg

 

Eventually I would like the inside to look as close to this as possable:

 

post-538112-1312070687_thumb.jpg

 

 

When I Plan on starting this build:

I have already started this build! Jump to the Updates Section of this topic to see my progress!

 

 

What you can do to help:

So I am not one of those guys who thinks he knows everything when he really knows nothing. With that being said, I have built a few computers and got OSX installed on a few as-well, I work as a privet contractor to a multitude of companies and install networks and computers all over, I will however say that i'm no expert when it comes to OS X and the OSx86 project, so if you guys have any suggestions on either OS X installation or the Hardware I have chosen, please let me know!

 

Total Project Cost:

So with all the parts you need plus some extra cash for miscellaneous things like cables, glue, mobo stands, etc it should be in the $799.99 Range, if you want to substitute the i5 for an i7 more like $899.99 Range.

 

So in review the project is:

i5 - $799.99 (Compared to Entry Level Mac Pro, $2,500,00)

i7 - $899.99 (Compared to Mid Level Mac Pro, $3,100.00)

Building an awesome Hackintosh - Priceless

 

Updates:

 

3-11-12: So I drove to Long Beach, CA today and Picked up two G5 Cases for this project! I paid $20 for each case (Plus the $20 Gas to get there) with all the goodies execpt for the Motherboard... Will post picture later.

 

3-30-12: Ok, So here is what is going on... I got the case striped down and the Mobo Test mounted. I also received 3 Early 2005 Front Panels to make it easier to mod. The only left to buy to complete this build is a late 2005 Motherboard. I am planning on just buying an entire computer for $100 that includes apples thin keyboard. I figure it is better to get the entire thing for $100 than $50 for the mobo and $50 for the keyboard and then I will part out the rest of the parts for some extra cash. Now time for some pictures!!!! I also ran into an issue with the rear CPU fans and clearence for the motherboard. I came to the conclusion that i will be simply cutting the bottom of the fan holder to allow room for the headers like the picture below, please note that the picture of the fans is not mine and is curticy of gouedi.

 

post-538112-0-18571800-1333139155_thumb.jpg post-538112-0-27817100-1333139215_thumb.jpg post-538112-0-76334600-1333139313_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm in the same boat as you! Looking for a nice Hackintosh, one that looks like a PowerMac/Mac Pro.

 

About the I/O in the back I was going to do the same thing, in fact I have the breadboard that I was going to use right next to me. Dimensions for a replacement I/O board need to be about 8 Inches (20.32 CM) tall and 2 Inches (5.08 CM) - 6 Inches (15.24 CM) wide. 6 Inches if the user would like to use more standoffs to mount the I/O board. I took a look at "Pad2Pad" for making the PCB board, needless to say I decided against that. However, I think that I'm going to try and make an I/O panel using an aluminium sheet that's bent at a 90 degree angle, this way I can configure the depth of the connectors easier.

 

What I'm working on now is mounting the motherboard. I'll be using a secondary plate to mount to the original motherboard standoffs. If anyone knows what size screw I need in order to utilize the original standoffs, please share! I then will use "Coupler nuts" to separate the aluminium sheet and the motherboard.

 

Great post and great idea! This kit will make modding so much easier/nicer!

-John

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I'm in the same boat as you! Looking for a nice Hackintosh, one that looks like a PowerMac/Mac Pro.

 

About the I/O in the back I was going to do the same thing, in fact I have the breadboard that I was going to use right next to me. Dimensions for a replacement I/O board need to be about 8 Inches (20.32 CM) tall and 2 Inches (5.08 CM) - 6 Inches (15.24 CM) wide. 6 Inches if the user would like to use more standoffs to mount the I/O board. I took a look at "Pad2Pad" for making the PCB board, needless to say I decided against that. However, I think that I'm going to try and make an I/O panel using an aluminium sheet that's bent at a 90 degree angle, this way I can configure the depth of the connectors easier.

 

What I'm working on now is mounting the motherboard. I'll be using a secondary plate to mount to the original motherboard standoffs. If anyone knows what size screw I need in order to utilize the original standoffs, please share! I then will use "Coupler nuts" to separate the aluminium sheet and the motherboard.

 

Great post and great idea! This kit will make modding so much easier/nicer!

-John

 

Hi John and welcome.

 

If you are talking about using aluminum to make a board to hold pcb connectors, you will receive a lot of "Cross Talk" you really need to use a well planed out PCB using copper clad board. I just picked up two big sheets of Double Sided Copper Clad for about $5, so it is pretty cheap, and just search google on how to make PCB. Super easy!

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Hi John and welcome.

 

If you are talking about using aluminum to make a board to hold pcb connectors, you will receive a lot of "Cross Talk" you really need to use a well planed out PCB using copper clad board. I just picked up two big sheets of Double Sided Copper Clad for about $5, so it is pretty cheap, and just search google on how to make PCB. Super easy!

 

Well I just figured that I should use extenders with panel mounts and just attach that to the aluminium sheet.

Would this still create cross-talk? I'm thinking it would, just a little less EMI because of the sealed connectors.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I plan on this also except using the GA-Z68MX-UD2H-B3 motherboard that has a miniDisplayPort. I need a working Lion machine soon though so I will get a temporary case for now, and later move to my Dual G5 case that is currently in working order.

 

I was wondering what PSU requirements sizewise I would need to consider.

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Well I just figured that I should use extenders with panel mounts and just attach that to the aluminium sheet.

Would this still create cross-talk? I'm thinking it would, just a little less EMI because of the sealed connectors.

 

Do the same thing, but still, instead of the aluminum use copperclad board, you don't have to use it right, but it will definitely not cause cross talk.

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  • 2 years later...
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