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Premessa d'obbligo: spero d'aver azzeccato la sezione giusta. In caso contrario chiedo venia.

 
 

Salve a tutti,

 

sto valutando l'acquisto e, quindi, l'aggiunta al già forse troppo vasto ed obsoleto parco macchine Apple di un hackintosh. L'idea di un altro iMac, di un Mac Pro nuovo (il posacenere, il barattolo, ...) o di uno usato (a trovarlo, un 5,1) si sta allontanando sempre più per ovvi motivi: la poca espandibilità dei primi due, l'incongruenza costo/potenza del secondo, la reperibilità, il costo (d'acquisto e aggiornamento) e l'affidabilità di un usato del terzo.

 

Da queste considerazioni nasce l'idea di un hackintosh. E da questa epifania digitale il problema: cosa scegliere.

 

Ho cercato sul forum, sul sito, sul sito del concorrente innominabile, su internet in generale le informazioni, ma, sinceramente, non fugano tutti i miei dubbi e, quando non li aumentano, molto spesso sono obsolete. Immagino siano, queste, richieste quotidiani, fastidiose, noiose, ma tant'è: con timidezza, ci provo.

 

Partiamo dalle esigenze. Sono un grafico e l'80% della mia attività si svolge con InDesign, Photoshop ed Illustrator. A corredo del magico trio tutta una serie di applicativi più o meno complessi. Talvolta un po' di montaggio video per particolari e specifiche richieste. Poi web, database, ecc.

 

Seguono sogni e speranze: velocizzare quello che faccio ora - ça va sans dire - e cercare di aggiungere qualche "opportunità" in più. 3D, montaggio video decente, un blando uso ludico, la possibilità di sfruttare la funzione remota con Nvidia Shield Pro.

 

I pezzi che compongono la macchina, ovviamente:

  • Processore.
    Intel Core i7 (serie 6, serie 7) o Intel Xeon? Io, già qui, mi fermo. Guardando alle configurazioni dei Mac Pro si nota che tutti montano gli Xeon. È forse un fattore di qualità e/o potenza e/o affidabilità superiore? Di converso, tutte le configurazioni che ho trovato su internet sono costantemente ignorati a favore dei più comuni (?) i7 7700, i7 7600, i5 e via discorrendo.
    Esempio Xeon: link
    Esempio i7: link
     
  • Scheda madre.
    Per me: buio completo. Ho realizzato solo ultimamente che ATX, ITX, mITX, ecc. sono le misure per il case. Il resto: arabo. Singolo o doppio processore? C'è differenza fra il supporto a i5-i7 ed a Xeon? In ambo i casi: uno o due processori? Come si comporta un hackintosh con, eventualmente, una coppia di cervelli?
     
  • Raffreddamento. 
    Vorrei il raffreddamento a liquido per la credo (e spero) ovvia riduzione del rumore e la maggiore affidabilità. Che tipo di manutenzione ha bisogno? Vanno fatti i rabbocchi tipo un radiatore di una vecchia macchina?
     
  • Alimentatore.
    Fino a qualche tempo fa i termini da tenere in considerazione erano: "Corsair" e "Bronze". Sono ancora affidabili? 
     
  • Scheda video.
    Tralasciando la Titan da 12GB ché mi servono ambo i reni, che cosa bisognerebbe scegliere per avere:
    - compatibilità con OS X;
    - una buona affidabilità dal punto di vista ludico (con Windows, magari, vista la non particolarmente vasta offerta Apple);
    - supporto per Nvidia Shield.
     
  • Case.
    Uno semplice, senza vetri, senza led, senza spigoli futuristici, un classico parallelepipedo senza bombature, arrotondamenti... Pannelli fonoassorbenti? Corsair?
    Esempio: link
     
  • Connessioni senza fili.
    Wi-fi, bluetooth. Integrate nella scheda madre o schede aggiuntive?
     
  • Connessioni cablate.
    USB 2, 3. Firewire. Thunderbolt. HDMI. Sapevo di una non perfetta compatibilità con thunderbolt, ma è una funzionalità poco importante, al momento. 
     
  • Dischi rigidi.
    Andrei su una ormai classica accoppiata SSD + HD classici. 
     
  • RAM.
    Questo caso credo sia il più semplice da gestire salvo un dubbio: solitamente, su Mac, non ci sono problemi di dimensione dei banchi nel senso che puoi mettere un banco da 4GB, uno da 8GB ed uno da 2GB ed il sistema li somma. Ricordo di una regola secondo la quale i banchi devono essere tutti uguali, ma non so se è una particolarità di un determinato tipo di RAM o di scheda madre o di processore.

 

 

Grazie in anticipo per tutto l'aiuto che potrete offrire.

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Interesse mal riposto, forse - a suo tempo - sono stato troppo generico.

 

Alla fine la scelta è ricaduta alla configurazione seguente:

 

Processore: i7 7700k @ 4.2GHz

Scheda madre: Gigabyte GA-H270-Gaming 3

Raffreddamento: ho scelto il raffreddamento a liquido, un Coolermaster Liquid Pro 240, un bestione a doppia ventola 12x12 (24x12).

Alimentatore: Corsair 850 Platinum modulare

Scheda video: l'ho cercata tanto, alla fine ho preso una Evga 980ti Hybrid da 6GB raffreddata a liquido.

Case: Thermaltake Urban S71

Wifi: ho optato per la "Fenvi 802.11AC Desktop Wifi Card 802.11 A/B/G/N/AC Bluetooth 4.0 OS X Yosemite 10.10+ PC/Hackintosh - Handoff and Continuity" (mi deve ancora arrivare, spero bene)

Dischi: 2x SSD 850evo da 500gb e un HD WD da 4TB

Ram: crucial ballistic sport 32GB (2x16)

 

 

Considerazioni a caldo: sto avendo vari problemi sulla configurazione/installazione/post installazione quindi non è che sia entusiasta al 100%. Saprò essere più lucido più avanti, appena avrò preso un po' più di confidenza con questo arnese. È il primo hackintosh che vedo/uso/monto quindi è un po' come una nave scuola: per ora tante onde, mare cattivo, poco godimento.

 

Per dire (ma sicuramente è perché sono impedito io): non riesco ad installare Windows 10. Non so se è un problema della USB, della ISO, della scheda madre, del Bios, ti 'sto cacchio di Windows che fa solo quel catso che gli pare… Eresie tante, ho scacciato anche il prete per la benedizione, avevo il serio timore che potesse prendere fuoco da solo!

 

Considerazioni sul case d'obbligo: pensavo di aver acquistato qualcosa di migliore, sinceramente. Non sono stato tanto a guardare il prezzo, alla fine m'è costato 120 Euro, mica 30!

Non avevo considerato, al momento della scelta del contenitore quale scheda video avrei acquistato (l'avevo vista, ma aveva un costo esorbitante, l'ho trovata a meno della metà e l'ho presa). Insomma, per la configurazione che avevo già prenotato è diventato piccolo.

Il dissipatore/radiatore 24x12cm del processore è troppo grosso e mi ha obbligato ad installare il dissipatore/radiatore della scheda video in fondo al case. Posizione non ideale, ma non c'era altro modo. Al posteriore ho trovato una ventola 12x12, ma non ho potuto sostituirla con il terminale di raffreddamento della GPU perché il corpo è troppo grande e lo spazio troppo preciso per una sola ventola.

A parte la questione logistica e spaziale, la fattura ed il materiale mi sembrano scadenti. Gli alloggiamenti delle viti si spanano con una facilità disarmante. Le ventole comprese nel case (due enormi, credo da 20cm) sono rumorosissime. Esteticamente è abbastanza lineare, le linee sono semplici, ma la pubblicizzata silenziosità mi sembra una presa per i fondelli. Per non essere volgare.

Col senno di poi, se avessi optato per il dissipatore CPU a singola ventola, forse...

 

Il processore è valido, niente da dire, ma ho provato ad avviare Photoshop su questa macchina e sul mio "vecchio" portatile (MBP 13" Retina, SSD, 16GB RAM, CPU/GPU Intel i7 2,8/Iris). Le stesse operazioni le finisce prima il portatile. Ci sono sinceramente rimasto male. Per non dire altro di più volgare.

 

 

EDIT #1

Due benchmark di prova fatti al volo ieri e messi a confronto: https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/compare/2183674?baseline=2183728

È la stessa macchina, i test sono stati eseguiti a circa 30-40 minuti di distanza. 

I numeri non sembrano male, ma nella pratica mi sembra che qualcosa non torni. Ma, come ho scritto prima, sarà mia cura tornarci sopra ed essere più preciso. Se ci limitassimo solo alle cifre, così come è configurato adesso, è simile, in termini di risultati, ad un Mac Pro del 2013 a 8 core.

 

EDIT #2

Confronto con Mac Pro Mid 2012 (2 processors, 12 cores, 24 threads) vs la mia configurazione (1 processor, 4 cores, 8 threads)

https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/compare/1933105?baseline=2183728

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Domanda: il procio forse é troppo recente? Qualche mese fa mi consigliavano ancora haswell piuttosto che skylake o kaby lake X evitare problemi. Scheda madre asrock...

Comunque chiedi a gengik 84 che ne sa di brutto e ti potrà sicuramente aiutare con i nuovi skylake o kaby...

 

 

Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

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Il processore? Probabilmente sì, è troppo recente, ma funziona. Ho reperito le informazioni che mi hanno portato alle scelte di cui sopra un po' in giro per internet e sembrava che sarebbe andato tutto bene (di andare, in effetti, va), forse se avessi optato per qualcosa di più rodato avrei avuto meno problemi, ma per quelli mi stanno aiutando a trovare una soluzione.

 

Volevo solo dar seguito al tuo messaggio e condividere l'esperienza.

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Diciamo però che lanciarsi nel mondo Hackintosh senza esperienze precedenti, con un hardware non (ancora) supportato è una cosa un po' avventata. Funzionerà pure ma con dei maneggiamenti, tipo Fake CPU, per non parlare del l'audio il cui sviluppo è solo agli inizi. Visto quello che ci vuoi fare è che usi un GPU nvidia io avrei optato per qualcosa di testato, anche perché le differenze prestazionali fra skylake e kabilake non sono poi così significative.

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Il processore? Probabilmente sì, è troppo recente, ma funziona. Ho reperito le informazioni che mi hanno portato alle scelte di cui sopra un po' in giro per internet e sembrava che sarebbe andato tutto bene (di andare, in effetti, va), forse se avessi optato per qualcosa di più rodato avrei avuto meno problemi, ma per quelli mi stanno aiutando a trovare una soluzione.

 

Volevo solo dar seguito al tuo messaggio e condividere l'esperienza.

Ti ringrazio per gli aggiornamenti. Vedrai che risolverai a breve le piccole magagne. Comunque complimenti X la macchina!è la Ferrari degli hack!

 

 

Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

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Diciamo però che lanciarsi nel mondo Hackintosh senza esperienze precedenti, con un hardware non (ancora) supportato è una cosa un po' avventata. Funzionerà pure ma con dei maneggiamenti, tipo Fake CPU, per non parlare del l'audio il cui sviluppo è solo agli inizi. Visto quello che ci vuoi fare è che usi un GPU nvidia io avrei optato per qualcosa di testato, anche perché le differenze prestazionali fra skylake e kabilake non sono poi così significative.

 

Non sono pazzo, ho cercato per molto tempo informazioni su quale tipo di configurazione fosse migliore, auspicabile, affidabile, priva - nei limiti del possibile - di imprevisti ed incompatibilità (considerato, ça va sans dire, che si parla di una installazione non definibile con l'aggettivo "normale"). Come puoi leggere dalla data del primo messaggio non è una decisione che ho preso alla leggera o nel giro di due giorni mosso dalla ridondanza dei numeri o dal fascino delle figure sulle confezioni. Ho visto sul sito dell'innominabile che questa configurazione era funzionante (forse termine troppo ottimistico, può essere) e, per dare in futuro qualche mese di vita in più alla macchina, ho optato per le ultime novità.

Sbagliato? Giusto? Pericoloso? Incosciente? Forse sì, ma non avendo gli strumenti culturali e ricevendo un altro genere di risposte altrove… Col senno di poi si farebbe tutto meglio.

 
 
 

Ti ringrazio per gli aggiornamenti. Vedrai che risolverai a breve le piccole magagne. Comunque complimenti X la macchina!è la Ferrari degli hack!

 

 

Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

 

Grazie, ero abituato con la panda, 'sti sedili in pelle mi fanno sudare il deretano!

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Non volevo far intendere che ritenevo ciò che hai scritto un'offesa, anche la mia era una considerazione in risposta alla tua. Una specie di difesa, una mia - passami il termine - parziale discolpa della scelta evidentemente avventata.

 

Mi dispiace molto, scusami.

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Interesse mal riposto, forse - a suo tempo - sono stato troppo generico.

 

Alla fine la scelta è ricaduta alla configurazione seguente:

 

Processore: i7 7700k @ 4.2GHz

Scheda madre: Gigabyte GA-H270-Gaming 3

Raffreddamento: ho scelto il raffreddamento a liquido, un Coolermaster Liquid Pro 240, un bestione a doppia ventola 12x12 (24x12).

Alimentatore: Corsair 850 Platinum modulare

Scheda video: l'ho cercata tanto, alla fine ho preso una Evga 980ti Hybrid da 6GB raffreddata a liquido.

Case: Thermaltake Urban S71

Wifi: ho optato per la "Fenvi 802.11AC Desktop Wifi Card 802.11 A/B/G/N/AC Bluetooth 4.0 OS X Yosemite 10.10+ PC/Hackintosh - Handoff and Continuity" (mi deve ancora arrivare, spero bene)

Dischi: 2x SSD 850evo da 500gb e un HD WD da 4TB

Ram: crucial ballistic sport 32GB (2x16)

 

 

Considerazioni a caldo: sto avendo vari problemi sulla configurazione/installazione/post installazione quindi non è che sia entusiasta al 100%. Saprò essere più lucido più avanti, appena avrò preso un po' più di confidenza con questo arnese. È il primo hackintosh che vedo/uso/monto quindi è un po' come una nave scuola: per ora tante onde, mare cattivo, poco godimento.

 

Per dire (ma sicuramente è perché sono impedito io): non riesco ad installare Windows 10. Non so se è un problema della USB, della ISO, della scheda madre, del Bios, ti 'sto cacchio di Windows che fa solo quel catso che gli pare… Eresie tante, ho scacciato anche il prete per la benedizione, avevo il serio timore che potesse prendere fuoco da solo!

 

Considerazioni sul case d'obbligo: pensavo di aver acquistato qualcosa di migliore, sinceramente. Non sono stato tanto a guardare il prezzo, alla fine m'è costato 120 Euro, mica 30!

Non avevo considerato, al momento della scelta del contenitore quale scheda video avrei acquistato (l'avevo vista, ma aveva un costo esorbitante, l'ho trovata a meno della metà e l'ho presa). Insomma, per la configurazione che avevo già prenotato è diventato piccolo.

Il dissipatore/radiatore 24x12cm del processore è troppo grosso e mi ha obbligato ad installare il dissipatore/radiatore della scheda video in fondo al case. Posizione non ideale, ma non c'era altro modo. Al posteriore ho trovato una ventola 12x12, ma non ho potuto sostituirla con il terminale di raffreddamento della GPU perché il corpo è troppo grande e lo spazio troppo preciso per una sola ventola.

A parte la questione logistica e spaziale, la fattura ed il materiale mi sembrano scadenti. Gli alloggiamenti delle viti si spanano con una facilità disarmante. Le ventole comprese nel case (due enormi, credo da 20cm) sono rumorosissime. Esteticamente è abbastanza lineare, le linee sono semplici, ma la pubblicizzata silenziosità mi sembra una presa per i fondelli. Per non essere volgare.

Col senno di poi, se avessi optato per il dissipatore CPU a singola ventola, forse...

 

Il processore è valido, niente da dire, ma ho provato ad avviare Photoshop su questa macchina e sul mio "vecchio" portatile (MBP 13" Retina, SSD, 16GB RAM, CPU/GPU Intel i7 2,8/Iris). Le stesse operazioni le finisce prima il portatile. Ci sono sinceramente rimasto male. Per non dire altro di più volgare.

 

 

EDIT #1

Due benchmark di prova fatti al volo ieri e messi a confronto: https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/compare/2183674?baseline=2183728

È la stessa macchina, i test sono stati eseguiti a circa 30-40 minuti di distanza.

I numeri non sembrano male, ma nella pratica mi sembra che qualcosa non torni. Ma, come ho scritto prima, sarà mia cura tornarci sopra ed essere più preciso. Se ci limitassimo solo alle cifre, così come è configurato adesso, è simile, in termini di risultati, ad un Mac Pro del 2013 a 8 core.

 

EDIT #2

Confronto con Mac Pro Mid 2012 (2 processors, 12 cores, 24 threads) vs la mia configurazione (1 processor, 4 cores, 8 threads)

https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/compare/1933105?baseline=2183728

Quindi lo xeon ha sempre una marcia in più quando lavora in multicore?

 

 

Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

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Parlando solo di numeri e lasciando la reale velocità (solo a scopo di esempio: ho provato a fare una copia di un file di 4GB zip su Windows 10 e su OSX; nel primo caso un battito di ciglio, nel secondo qualche secondo): la macchina presa in esempio nel test ha 2 processori da 12 core, 24 threads totali. Il mio ne ha "solo" 8.

 

Facciamo, ma solo per giocare e chiacchierare a ruota libera, una moltiplicazione:

[ ( 24 * 3,06 ) = 73,44 ] vs [ ( 8 * 4,20 ) = 33,60 ]

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Credo svolga un ruolo fondamentale il supporto hardware del sistema operativo. Probabilmente un confronto fra un hackintosh con i7 7600 ed un iMac pari equipaggiato possa essere più aderente la realtà.

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Da quello che ho potuto appurare all'epoca del mio hack fisso, il mio era nettamente più veloce di qualunque Mac 21 o 27 pollici provato. Non ho potuto provare un server

 

 

Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

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Magari il sistema 10.12.4 o 10.12.5 consentirà un utilizzo più proficuo del processore. Magari domani mi darà grandi soddisfazioni.

Appena avviato, l'altro ieri, ho installato Photoshop. Mi sono commosso per l'avvio repentino, neanche fosse un editor di testo! Mi ha calmato il ricampionamento di un'immagine (nel caso specifico la scheda video dovrebbe anche aiutare): passando da 150MB a 2GB ha faticato più del necessario. Si starà a vedere.

 

Per dire: https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/compare/2195767?baseline=2183728

Il Mac Pro è quello nuovo, il posacenere, il barattolo, il coso nero insomma. Una macchina da 5.609 Euro (configuratore Apple: Xeon 6-core 3,5 e 64GB RAM, il resto base).

 

Non so - detto inter nos - quale utilità o relazione diretta con le prestazioni abbiano questi dati. Appena mi metto in pari con il lavoro cerco di fare qualche prova più seria così da abbandonare i numeri e guardare di più alla sostanza. Un confronto fra il MBP e questo, entrambi da partenza pulita. E, magari, qualche tentativo su Windows per stabilire se fa il figo solo con la copia dei file o se quando dice di funzionare bene lo fa davvero.

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      Planning & Conversion
       
      Then I made a plan for the easiest ATX conversion with the least cutting.
      Best thing to do: Cut an opening to the back - big enough for ATX boards I/O and reuse the original PCIe slots for graphics cards. This turned out to be just perfect. I tested different boards. E.g.: ASUS TUF X99 (ATX) and ASrock AB350M (mATX)
       
       

      Night shift – working with the Dremel
       

      First cut for the ATX Mainboard I/O.
      All the Internals are removed. Also, the fan grille with its many mini-screws. So that the plastic is not melting.
       

      Cut-out (before filing and sanding). Sharp edges. Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges.
      Then the filing and sanding removed all sharp edges.
       

      I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy. This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils.
       

      I made two different stencils. One for ATX Boards and one for mATX Boards:
       

      Putting the standoff through the stencil and securing it with a screw
       

      Cleaning the surface before gluing.

      Both stencils with standoffs and fresh glue – right before placing it in the cases
       

      ATX stencil in the case – gluing down the standoffs.
       

      mATX stencil while gluing. It had to sit like this over night to make sure the glue is hard.
       
      Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. All stand-offs / threads are in the right position for standart mainboards, now.
       

      Now that all the disassembly, cutting and gluing was done it was time for some fresh paint.
       
       
       
      The painting:
       
      Before painting it was necessary to fill dents, file edges (there were chips, especially on the feet) and sand EVERYTHING to smoothen the surface and remove unwanted oils.
      Fill, file, sand, repeat…
      I used 2K Aluminium epoxy to fill dents

       

      The Epoxy is like a cold weld. Hard and sturdy.
       

      Dents before filling
       

      Dents after filling - before sanding
       

      More filling
       

      Filled and sanded case.
       

      At first I did not want to paint them myself.
      So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks).
      They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts.
       
       

      The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint…
       
      I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach.
      So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...)
      What a fool I was.
      This took a week.
       
      First of all, I needed a cleanroom.
      So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden.
       

      Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time
       

      Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm.
       

      To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would  leave  marks on the fresh paint).
       

      I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before.
       

      Paint-Shed from the inside
       

      Hanging case before spray-painting
       

      Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time.
      All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats.
       

      After spray-painting it was time for drying
       

      The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in.
       
       
      The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result:
       
       

       

       

       

       
       

      The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4.
      The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards.
      Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link?
       

       

       

       
       
       
      The “Empty Ones”:
       
      This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin:
       

      Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet.
       

      An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards.
       

      Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans.
       

      A finished ”empty” mATX case
       

      You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones”
       
       
       
      I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones:
       
      Time for re-assembly:
       
       
       
      Fan-Bracket:
       

      The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case.
       

      I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand.
       

      The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable).
       

      The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans
      My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm
      They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects)
       

      Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing
       
       
       
      Front-Panel:
       
       

      The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable.
       

      Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing
       

      To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise.
       

      The case without any front-panel board or power-button.
       
      Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases.
      Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match.
       

      Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again.
      Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:
       

      Installation of the front-panel board.
       

      The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted.
       

      The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work.
      I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify.
      Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds.  For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings.
       

      Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector.
       

      Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability.
       
       
       
      DVD / Blu-Ray drive:
       
       

      Eject the disc tray with a  paper clip.
       

      Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture
       

      Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those)
       

      Standoffs installed
       

      Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done.
       
       
       
      PSU (Power Supply Unit):
       
       
      I thought a long time about the perfect PSU.
      I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability.
       

      The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable.
       
      How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU?
      I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing.
      So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound.
      Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.
       
      Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti.
       

      Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.
       

      Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints.
       
      The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension.
      The input-filter is still connected to the socket.
       

      The Apple power-cord.
       
       
      I found the perfect PSU.
      A 600W PSU by Supermicro.
       
      Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive.
      Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU.
       
      The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating.
      That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available.
      Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now)
       
      80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.
       

      All PSUs before they were put in
       

      It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing.
       

      The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord.
       

      Securing the PSU in place
       

      The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts.
      Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug.
      They also have a bigger input filter.
       

      Soldering the extension on.
       

      Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside
       

      PSU inside the original Apple-Housing
       

      All the cables come out near the back of the case.
       

      I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through.
       

      All PSUs are prepared
       

      The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester.
       
      These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal.
       
       
       
      PSU-Cables:
       
       
      - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)
      - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.
      - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)
      - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved
      - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector
      - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved
       

      Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)
       
      You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.
       

      The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)
       
       
       
      HDD-Caddy:
       

      The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone.
       

      Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore)
       

      ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place
       
       
       
      Finished ATX Barebones:
       
       

      Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord
       

      Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover
       

      Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management
       
       
       
      Watercooling (mATX Barebones):
       
       
      Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases.
       
      I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones:
       

      Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case.
       

      This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases
       

      To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top
       

      Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C
       

      Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop.
       

      The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment.
       
      The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+)
       

      Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out.
      You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure).
       
       
       
      Equipment:
       
       
      I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones
       

      Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables)
       
      All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover
       
      I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag.
       
       
       
      Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling:
       
       
      Here are some pictures of the internal layout:
      Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts.
       

      Finished mATX Barebone
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       
       
       
      Types of cases & Barebones:
       
       
      What I have right now:
       
      12 fully modded Barebones:
      6 - mATX - with watercooling
      6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit)
       
      12 “Empty Ones”
      - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel)
      - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel)
       
       
       
      The End:
       
       
      Thats it for now…
      What do you think?
      Was it worth it?
      What hardware would you put in?
      Please let me know…
      ;-)
       
       
      Yours, sincerely
      wise_rice
    • By moman2000
      Hi,
       
      I thought it would be nice that I would be the first here to give my experience with getting Mojave running and mostly working on my system.
       
      My specifications are as follows:
       
      iMac 14,2
       
      GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD5H / Intel Core i7-4770k @ 4.4GHz / 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600MHz
      MSI AMD Radeon HD 7870 2GB OC
      250GB SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND SSD / 120GB OCZ Agility 3 SSD
      1TB 5.4K HDD
       
      I used the config that @MaLd0n helped me with. Seriously, he is a legend. HERE is my Clover Config including everything I use for 10.13 High Sierra and 10.14 Mojave.
       
      Installation Procedure:
       
       
      Create bootable USB media with createinstallmedia - sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ 10.14\ Beta.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/"Insert Volume Name here"  ***** Remove quotation marks!!! 
       
      **"--Applicationpath" is now depreciated and should not be used when making a 10.14 Mojave USB. I do not know if this will change in upcoming releases.
       
      ** ConvertToAPFS is now depreciated and no longer works when installing 10.14 Mojave beta 1. Using the command "--converttoapfs NO" will not work if you use it with "createinstallmedia".
       
      Editing "minstallconfig.xml" within the "macOS Install Data" folder on the target partition chosen during installation to change "ConvertToAPFS" from "TRUE" to "FALSE" would also not disable APFS conversion.
       
      Installation ran through well, but it did restart just after installation began which seemed to have been caused by a crash, but it seemed like it was normal as this happened twice as I tried installing Mojave earlier and the same thing happened. Rebooting again into the installation on the target drive that was selected before described as "macOS Install"  and named "macOS 10.14" resumed installation.
       
      Everything from then on was easy and smooth. I set-up my iCloud and things as such and was brought to the desktop of macOS 10.14 Mojave!
       
       
      What does work:
       
      Graphics (Acceleration/Metal) // 4K video dropped 0 frames // Picture-in-Picture
      Mouse and Keyboard
      USB 3.0 -  Full 5 GBP/s - Only ports above HDMI Port and front I/O
      USB 3.0 under both Intel and Killer Ethernet ports function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Ethernet (only Intel NIC so far) Both NIC's work, Intel I217-V and Killer E2200
      iMessage
      Sleep and Wake
      Shutdown
      Restart
       
      Update #1:
       
      Temporary Fix: ***I have gotten audio to work after browsing Reddit, I stumbled across this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hackintosh/comments/8orn7w/mojave_files_needed/e05kkj9/
       
      Update #2:
       
      I have just found a kext for the on-board Killer E2200 NIC after searching with device and vendor ID's on this forum.
      https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/files/file/313-atherose2200ethernet/
       
      Update #3:
       
      Audio is now fully operational with new version 1.2.8 of AppleALC, from here: 
       
      What does NOT work:
       
      USB 3 under Intel I217-V NIC and Killer E2200 NIC Ethernet Ports // Only function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Audio Temporary fix in Update #1 above   Fixed in Update #3
      Killer E2200 NIC Fixed in Update #2 above
       
       
       
      This is the information I have been able to gather thus far whilst using Mojave.
       
      I hope this helps someone in getting Mojave running on their system.
       
      Regards,
      Mohamed
       
       
      CLOVER_moman2000 No SN.zip







    • By ITzTravelInTime
      Hi guys, this thread is to show you a new and open source app, created by me, that I called TINU:
       
      The name means: TINU Is Not #####, the U refers to a popular software that is used to create Mac OS hackintosh installers (that for good reasons is banned on this forum), but the aim of the name is to explain that this app is a totally different thing from that software and works in a totally different way.
       
      This app basically is a graphical interface for the createinstallmedia executable that is inside the Mac OS installer apps, it is capable to create a Mac OS installer on a drive completely vanilla like what you do using the command line method, and also this method is recommended by apple itself. In addition to this, this app provvides also to you some customization features and a better management of the hall macOS isntall media creation process
       
      Allows you to create easily a macOS install media without messing around with command line stuff and without using disk utility, all you need to do is use the app and then install clover on the usb drive once TINU has finished or leave it as is you want to use it on a Mac.
       
      Features:
        - Simple to use UI that allows you to easily start the macOS install media creation process
        - It can work with every Mac OS installer app that has the createinstallmedia executable inside of it's resources folder (including also beta and newly released installers)
        - You can use any drive or partition you want that can be erased and is at least 7 GB of size
        - Works on Mac OS recovery, so you can create a macOS install media from a bootable macOS installer or from the macOs recovery, and you can use TINU to install macOS too.
        - All vanilla, the macOS install medias created with this tool are 100% vanilla, just like you created them using the command line "createinstallmedia" method in the terminal, with also some extra optiona features
        - Open source, you will know what this program does on your computer and also you can create your own version by downloading and playing with the source code
        - Does not requires to do anything of special first, just open the program
        - No need to go in disk utility first, TINU can format your drive for you
        - Uses recent and more modern APIs and SDKs and Swift 3 language
        - Transparent graphics style available (use alt + s on the keyboard or View->Use transparent style)
        - Works using the latest versions of macOS and will also support newer Mac installers out of the box without needing for an update
        - Advanced section, to customize your macOS install media
        - Installer customization: Kernelcache/prelinkedknerel and boot files replacement (a feature that can be handy while dealing with old Macs or with beta installers when you need to mod or change the boot files some times)
        - Clover EFI folder installer
       
        Features that are planned for some future versions:
        - Integrated EFI partition mounter tool (TINU can already mount EFI partitions from version 2.0, but a dedicated section which allows to mount every EFI partition in the system will be added)
        - Install clover and configure clover
        - Install kexts inside the kexts folder of clover
        - Clover drivers customization
        - Use custom dsdt in clover
        - integrated pre-made clover config templates database from a remote and open repository
        - Support for other languages, at least Italian   Rquirements:  - A computer that runs Mac OS X Yosemite or a more recent version (Mac OS X El Capitan is required to use TINU in a macOS recovery or installer)  - A drive or a free partition of at least 7 GB that you want to turn into a macOS/Mac OS X installer  - A copy of a macOS/Mac OS X installer app (Maveriks or newer versions are supported) in the /Applications folder or in the root of any storage device in your machine (excepted the drive or volume you want to turn into your macOS install media)   Note that this app is under the GNU GPL v3 license so any reuse of the source code must follow the license's terms   Latest stable TINU release:   Download the app:                                https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/TINU/releases   View the source code:                            https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/TINU       Frequently asked questions about TINU:  https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/TINU/wiki/FAQs     NOTE: if you have problems with your USB installer of 10.13.4 or newer version not being detected by clover you have to use the latest clover and if it still does not detectets your usb installer you have to remove the invivible file called .IAPhysicalMedia located into the root of the usb installer. This issue is caused by a changement in the apple's createinstallmedia, don't blame TINU for that, TINU does only uses the installer creation method from apple, which has been changed by appleitself, causing this problem for hackintosh users some times, this issue should be resolved in the latest versions of clover which will no longer require that you do changements to let your usb dive to be detected, a setting to do this fix automatically in tinu is also present TINU in the adavnced settings, starting from the version 2.0 of the app. I leave also some screenshots as well
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       

    • By MaLd0n
      First... If you need DSDT edits... -Post your full Clover folder with original tables in Origin folder(Extract with F4 in Clover boot screen) -Run it, post files generated in your desktop RunMe.app  Installation   --Create a bootable copy of macOS Sierra Check out the link http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/files/file/559-flash-drive-maker/   --Create a bootable copy of macOS HighSierra Check out the link http://diskmakerx.com/   --Install Clover in USB stick https://sourceforge.net/projects/cloverefiboot/files/Installer/   --Replace with my Clover folder  CLOVER.zip   --Install Sierra/High Sierra and boot into system!   Post Installation   --Install Clover in HDD/SSD and replace with my folder CLOVER.zip   --Reboot and activate video!   -Nvidia WebDriver Sierra http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/312525-nvidia-web-driver-updates-for-macos-sierra-update-07212017/ -Nvidia WebDriver High Sierra http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/324195-nvidia-web-driver-updates-for-macos-high-sierra-update-10162017/ -Cuda http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/302795-cuda-90214-is-out-update-10162017/   -DSDT My DSDT DSDT.GA H97M-DS3P MaLd0n.zip   -Patches -FIX ERRORS AND WARNINGS -HPET -SATA -DMAC -SLPB -DARWIN -LPC -XHCI -HDEF -RTC -IRQs -SBUS -MIKEY -BUS1 -MCHC -ALS0 -SHUTDOWN -LAN -EC -PNLF -HDMI





      -FakeSMC
      https://bitbucket.org/RehabMan/os-x-fakesmc-kozlek -Audio https://github.com/vit9696/AppleALC -LAN https://github.com/Mieze/IntelMausiEthernet   -Credits and thanks to the old and new people in the community who developed patches, kexts and bootloaders!   Slice, Kabyl, usr-sse2, jadran, Blackosx, dmazar, STLVNUB, pcj, apianti, JrCs, pene, FrodoKenny, skoczy, ycr.ru, Oscar09, xsmile, SoThOr, RehabMan, Download-Fritz, Zenit432, cecekpawon, Intel, Apple, Oracle, Chameleon Team, crazybirdy, Mieze, Mirone, Oldnapalm, netkas, Elconiglio, artut-pt, ErmaC, Pavo, Toleda, Master Chief and family, bcc9, The King, PMheart, Sherlocks, Micky1979, vit9696, vandroiy2013, Voodoo Team, Pike R. Alpha, lvs1974, Austere.J, CVad and many, many, many others!   We're all here to have fun and learn from each other!   ENJOY!  
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