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Hola a tod@s,

En este hilo os enseño como instalar OSx Sierra paso a paso en 6 capítulos + una introducción:

 

Capitulo 0:

En la introducción os mostraré los pros y contras, y como he realizado la instalación con arranque Dual junto con Windows 10:

 

Capitulo 1:

En el capitulo 1 , os enseñaré a crearos un USB de instalación bootable con clover:

 

Capítulo 2:

En este os enseñaré a configurar Clover mediante clover configurator para afinar los parámetros de arranque (ketxts ...):

 

Capítulo 3:

Cómo configurar la BIOS de vuestra máquina para haceros un hackintosh, en particular la un Asus Z170P :

 

Capítulo 4:

La instalación propiamente dicha:

 

Capítulo 5:

Post Instalación en ella instalo los webdrivers de Nvidia, y creo en mi disco duro de apple una partición EFI para no tener que usar un pendrive para hacer el arranque Dual y así dejarlo definitivo.

 

Capitulo 6:

Este es un capitulo extra os muestro las aplicaciones más recomendadas para OSx Sierra para que seáis productivos desde el minuto 0.

 

Espero que os guste, si tenéis alguna sugerencia contactad conmigo a través de mi canal de youtube ("el colega informatico" dejo el enlace debajo), ya que responderé antes...

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2XTU132H9tHCnM_A3opCzQ

 

Ánimo y suerte colegas de hackintosh!!

 

 

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Gracias por los videos amigo antoniomy82, seguro les serán muy útiles a muchos compañeros.

 

Ahora creo que seria mejor mover el post a la sección de tutoriales y guías que aquí se perderá eventualmente entre discusiones surtidas.

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Hola a todos.

 

Antes de nada agradecer la ayuda desinteresada.

 

Mi problema viene a la hora de instalar Clover para arrancar desde el propio SSD, instalo Mac OS sierra desde el usb creado con Clover y todo bien, pero a la hora de que me arranque desde el propio SSD me dice "Not bootable device found" he probado como pone en el tutoría el compañero en su video, a instalar desde el propio Clover y no lo consigo... si, soy muy noob y acabo de empezar con esto y seguro que será una tontería que pase por alto.

 

Gracias y un saludo.

 

 

Bueno creo que mejor muevo este tema a la sección más apropiada que no me di cuenta que la había. saludos.

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tucanjuan te puede ser útil este hilo que abrí para preguntar a los foreros qué hardware me recomendaban, es de Julio así que seguro que te viene bien: http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/313329-ill-buy-a-new-pc-what-do-you-recommend-me-to-make-a-hackintosh/?fromsearch=1

 

ruro , para que arranque desde tu SSD tienes que crear una partición EFI como si fuese el pendrive de instalación, y meter ahí todo el tinglado de clover que te funcionó , es decir, tus Ketxts, tu config.plist etc... Lo más sencillo es que copies el contenido de la partición EFI de tu USB que te funcionó ahí y listo. Acuérdate de cuando hagas todo de poner en tu BIOS que arranque desde tu SSD. Suerte!

 

Gracias por las felicitaciones, ¡es todo un honor que mi tutorial esté en la sección de guías!

 

Un saludo!!

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ruro , para que arranque desde tu SSD tienes que crear una partición EFI como si fuese el pendrive de instalación, y meter ahí todo el tinglado de clover que te funcionó , es decir, tus Ketxts, tu config.plist etc... Lo más sencillo es que copies el contenido de la partición EFI de tu USB que te funcionó ahí y listo. Acuérdate de cuando hagas todo de poner en tu BIOS que arranque desde tu SSD. Suerte!

 

Saludos y gracias por responder aquí.

 

Tengo creada la partición EFI y también probé a copiar y pegar como dices en tu tutoríal y tampoco funciona aun poniendo el SSD en first boot device ni eligiéndolo desde f12 que en bios eliges manualmente el disco que quieres arrancar... sinceramente no tengo ni idea de por que... dejo una captura de pantalla de esquema de mi disco a ver si hay algo raro.

 

Gracias.

post-1904160-0-32209000-1480460447_thumb.png

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Pues lo único que se me ocurre por lo que pueda estar dandote fallos es que tengas activado el arranque seguro en bios, prueba a ver si puede ser eso...

Suerte!!

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Antoniomy82 ¿Como de silencioso es? Lo voy a tener en el salón y necesito que sea muy silencioso cuando estoy viendo una peli conectado al Apple TV y esta bajando cosas y codificando vídeo.

¿Con tu configuración movería una pantalla 4k?

 

Enviado desde mi Redmi 3 mediante Tapatalk

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Tucanjuan, para 4K tira de sobra, de hecho tiene más rendimiento que un iMac27.Con respecto al tema de sonido, lo suyo es que te busques tanto el cooler del procesador, como el ventilador/es silencioso es decir que te los compres para que emitan 10db o menos.. Lo que pides es muy factible, para que fuese silencioso y tengas que meterle pocos ventiladores(para evitar ruido) me compraría una buena torre thermaltake de aluminio, un buen cooler de la misma marca de menos de 10db, y como mucho un ventilador más (de menos de 10db)... En resumen vas a conseguir + rendimiento porque el hardware que hay actualmente en PC es muy superior que lo que monta Apple, y te vas a ahorrar la mitad de presupuesto, vamos por 1500€ tienes un avión que en Apple te saldría en torno a 4000€. Anímate ya verás que no te arrepentirás, eso si te va a tocar sudar un poco..

ruro, el Hd es el mismo donde tienes instalado el Windows, porque puede que eso te esté dando problemillas al estar escrito el MBR para arranque con Windows... O eso o lo que te he dicho antes del modo arranque seguro... Porque el problema parece de hardware de la BIOS que no te reconoce el Hd como de arranque..

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Jeje, gracias @antonio82 lo de sudar veo que es inevitable... Pero me apetece meterme en este follón :) aunque creo que voy a dejar de leer y ponerme manos a la obra porque hay tanto hilo y tanto foro que me estoy liando.

Caja tengo casi seguro una Fractal Design R5 y coger un disipador Noctua NH-D15S. Estoy echando cuentas entre un modelo como el.tuyo o una golden basada en Asus Maximus VIII y caja mATX... pero se me va de dinero para prestaciones casi similares.

 

Una última duda: ¿cómo te funciona FCPX? Estoy leyendo que la tarjeta afecta mucho en su rendimiento al ser Nvidia, y la 980Ti se va a los 600€. Con los Nvidia nuevas 10XX creo que no hay soporte y la 960 me da la sensación que se puede quedar corta... Veo que la 970 es una buena opción. ¿merece la pena o con la 960 FCPX tira bien?

 

Enviado desde mi Redmi 3 mediante Tapatalk

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FCPX no lo uso la verdad, utilizo algo más amateur Camtasia, y con el tira bastante bien más que nada por falta de tiempo (no tengo tiempo de enredar para aprender a manejar el final cut...). Con la 970 ya hay bastante diferencia ya que trabaja a 256bits en vez de a 128 bits de la 960. Para el uso que le doy me va sobrada, ahora si quieres una opinión más seria te recomiendo que abras un hilo en inglés ya que las gráficas no es lo mío (uso el PC sobre todo para programar). Lo que si te puedo decir es que el equipo que tengo montado con la configuración que os he enseñado en el vídeo se lleva de calle a los iMac27 y si estos tiran bien, el mío supongo que no dará problemas. Ya te digo hasta ahora renderizando con camtasia 3 me va de lujo.... En mi opinión me iba a por una 970, por que de ahí para arriba ya se va de madre el precio.. Si quieres otro criterio a la hora de comprar puedes mirar los rendimientos de las gráficas en GPU benchmark, es una web que se dedica a realizar benchmark todas las GPUs del mercado.... http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/

 

Si quieres nos curramos un tutorial para Final Cut Pro X y así aprendo jajajjaaj.

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Gracias! Estoy ya haciendo los últimos ajustes para empezar a comprar. Quizás empiece tirando de la gráfica integrada y esperar a que NVIDIA de soporte a la 1070 que está mejor de precio y parece que va como un tiro. Estoy leyendo por todos lados, a ver si defino mis componentes y habro hilo en inglés básico jeje

 

Aunque no hago nada de otro mundo con FCPX la verdad es que me he acostumbrado y es muy sencillo... cuando tengo que montar algo con alguien en 5 minutos ya saben hacer lo básico... y para los videos del verano es genial. 

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Gráfica integrada... uff ... y qué Nvidia de soporte para Apple de la GTX 1070 rápido no lo tengo claro... vamos la 960 de 4GB DDR5 la que es la que tengo montada va como un tiro, yo que tú me compraba por si las moscas la 970 y si ves que te hace falta más la vendía más adelante. Pero vamos no tiene nada que ver como van los programas de diseño gráfico en OSx que en Windows, estoy convencido que incluso con una GTX740 tira bien... Lo digo porque me ha sorprendido gratamente... De todos modos preguntale a los amigos guiris a ver que te dicen..... El Pc que me monté incluida la gráfica fue lo que me recomendaron y estoy encantado.

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Edited by ludox
It is forbidden to treat Tonymac arguments, has broken the rules, to advise you to carefully read the regulations before answering.

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Lo de la Wifi sencillo, tengo el router al lado rj45 ajajaaj. De todos modos hay Ketxts para esa tarjeta Wifi, PandoraBox es mano de santo para las post instalaciones. Si quieres la GTX 1070 mira a ver qué apaño han hecho por ahí para que tiré, y no le des más vueltas que al final te vas a alegrar de la compra. Sino mira a ver qué ATI te convence... Pero al final te vas alegrar de haberte gastado 200 o 300€ más, es una inversión a 4 años, y la paga extra está cerca (aunque las Navidades también)...

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Edited by ludox
It is forbidden to treat Tonymac arguments, has broken the rules, to advise you to carefully read the regulations before answering.

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Yo no he conseguido instalarlo con este metodo en un HP PROBOOK 450 g3 Intel 7 6500U con 8 gigas DDR4. Cuando elijo con clover que arranque la instalación se queda la pantalla negra. 

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      DVD / Blu-Ray drive:
       
       

      Eject the disc tray with a  paper clip.
       

      Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture
       

      Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those)
       

      Standoffs installed
       

      Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done.
       
       
       
      PSU (Power Supply Unit):
       
       
      I thought a long time about the perfect PSU.
      I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability.
       

      The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable.
       
      How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU?
      I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing.
      So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound.
      Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.
       
      Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti.
       

      Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.
       

      Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints.
       
      The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension.
      The input-filter is still connected to the socket.
       

      The Apple power-cord.
       
       
      I found the perfect PSU.
      A 600W PSU by Supermicro.
       
      Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive.
      Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU.
       
      The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating.
      That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available.
      Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now)
       
      80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.
       

      All PSUs before they were put in
       

      It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing.
       

      The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord.
       

      Securing the PSU in place
       

      The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts.
      Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug.
      They also have a bigger input filter.
       

      Soldering the extension on.
       

      Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside
       

      PSU inside the original Apple-Housing
       

      All the cables come out near the back of the case.
       

      I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through.
       

      All PSUs are prepared
       

      The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester.
       
      These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal.
       
       
       
      PSU-Cables:
       
       
      - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)
      - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.
      - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)
      - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved
      - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector
      - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved
       

      Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)
       
      You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.
       

      The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)
       
       
       
      HDD-Caddy:
       

      The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone.
       

      Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore)
       

      ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place
       
       
       
      Finished ATX Barebones:
       
       

      Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord
       

      Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover
       

      Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management
       
       
       
      Watercooling (mATX Barebones):
       
       
      Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases.
       
      I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones:
       

      Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case.
       

      This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases
       

      To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top
       

      Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C
       

      Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop.
       

      The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment.
       
      The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+)
       

      Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out.
      You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure).
       
       
       
      Equipment:
       
       
      I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones
       

      Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables)
       
      All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover
       
      I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag.
       
       
       
      Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling:
       
       
      Here are some pictures of the internal layout:
      Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts.
       

      Finished mATX Barebone
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       
       
       
      Types of cases & Barebones:
       
       
      What I have right now:
       
      12 fully modded Barebones:
      6 - mATX - with watercooling
      6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit)
       
      12 “Empty Ones”
      - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel)
      - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel)
       
       
       
      The End:
       
       
      Thats it for now…
      What do you think?
      Was it worth it?
      What hardware would you put in?
      Please let me know…
      ;-)
       
       
      Yours, sincerely
      wise_rice
    • By moman2000
      Hi,
       
      I thought it would be nice that I would be the first here to give my experience with getting Mojave running and mostly working on my system.
       
      My specifications are as follows:
       
      iMac 14,2
       
      GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD5H / Intel Core i7-4770k @ 4.4GHz / 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600MHz
      MSI AMD Radeon HD 7870 2GB OC
      250GB SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND SSD / 120GB OCZ Agility 3 SSD
      1TB 5.4K HDD
       
      I used the config that @MaLd0n helped me with. Seriously, he is a legend. HERE is my Clover Config including everything I use for 10.13 High Sierra and 10.14 Mojave.
       
      Installation Procedure:
       
       
      Create bootable USB media with createinstallmedia - sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ 10.14\ Beta.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/"Insert Volume Name here"  ***** Remove quotation marks!!! 
       
      **"--Applicationpath" is now depreciated and should not be used when making a 10.14 Mojave USB. I do not know if this will change in upcoming releases.
       
      ** ConvertToAPFS is now depreciated and no longer works when installing 10.14 Mojave beta 1. Using the command "--converttoapfs NO" will not work if you use it with "createinstallmedia".
       
      Editing "minstallconfig.xml" within the "macOS Install Data" folder on the target partition chosen during installation to change "ConvertToAPFS" from "TRUE" to "FALSE" would also not disable APFS conversion.
       
      Installation ran through well, but it did restart just after installation began which seemed to have been caused by a crash, but it seemed like it was normal as this happened twice as I tried installing Mojave earlier and the same thing happened. Rebooting again into the installation on the target drive that was selected before described as "macOS Install"  and named "macOS 10.14" resumed installation.
       
      Everything from then on was easy and smooth. I set-up my iCloud and things as such and was brought to the desktop of macOS 10.14 Mojave!
       
       
      What does work:
       
      Graphics (Acceleration/Metal) // 4K video dropped 0 frames // Picture-in-Picture
      Mouse and Keyboard
      USB 3.0 -  Full 5 GBP/s - Only ports above HDMI Port and front I/O
      USB 3.0 under both Intel and Killer Ethernet ports function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Ethernet (only Intel NIC so far) Both NIC's work, Intel I217-V and Killer E2200
      iMessage
      Sleep and Wake
      Shutdown
      Restart
       
      Update #1:
       
      Temporary Fix: ***I have gotten audio to work after browsing Reddit, I stumbled across this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hackintosh/comments/8orn7w/mojave_files_needed/e05kkj9/
       
      Update #2:
       
      I have just found a kext for the on-board Killer E2200 NIC after searching with device and vendor ID's on this forum.
      https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/files/file/313-atherose2200ethernet/
       
      Update #3:
       
      Audio is now fully operational with new version 1.2.8 of AppleALC, from here: 
       
      What does NOT work:
       
      USB 3 under Intel I217-V NIC and Killer E2200 NIC Ethernet Ports // Only function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Audio Temporary fix in Update #1 above   Fixed in Update #3
      Killer E2200 NIC Fixed in Update #2 above
       
       
       
      This is the information I have been able to gather thus far whilst using Mojave.
       
      I hope this helps someone in getting Mojave running on their system.
       
      Regards,
      Mohamed
       
       
      CLOVER_moman2000 No SN.zip







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