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Need some help - HP Envy 17t m7-n101dx

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Hello guys,

 

I'm trying to install OS X El Capitan on my new HP Envy 17t m7-n101dx notebook. Before giving more details, I'd like to show you the configuration of this laptop:

  • Intel i7-5500U processor
  • 16GB RAM
  • 1TB 5400rpm HDD that I will use for OS X (Windows will be installed on a 256GB SSD connected to the M.2 adapter; If OS X runs well I might consider installing it in the future on the SSD and use the HDD for Windows)
  • Intel HD 5500 internal graphics, nVidia GeForce 940M 2GB
  • 17.3 Full HD IPS touchscreen display

Looking at those specs, in theory, I should be able to run OS X without any issues (I also made a hackintosh from my desktop in the past, so I have some ideas on how this process should be done).

 

However, two weeks ago I tried to install El Capitan and I got some issues. I used my friend's MacBook to make a bootable installation using Clover. I got to the point where I could see the Apple logo and then an immediate crash (kernel panic issued by the HD 5500, after checking on some forums).

 

I gave up when I read that I have to modify my BIOS for a custom DVMT allocation size and there is a possibility to kill my notebook's motherboard. I didn't knew what's the memory allocated for DVMT, so I booted Windows and saw that it is 128MB. When I did more research I found out that 128MB is fine for running this version of OS X, the laptops with 32MB allocation size have problems.

 

Now, I would like to give this another try. Do you have an idea if I should use any patches or something? And can you explain to me why do I have problems with Intel HD 5500 and this DVMT allocation size when I have nVidia GeForce 940M?

 

Thank you.

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Ok guys. Great progress here! I actually booted up to the installer screen without an issue.

 

The only problem right now is that at this stage the installer won't detect my touchpad and my internal keyboard so I have to use external ones. If I boot up without any USB peripherals connected the installer brings up some animations with a mouse and a keyboard. After connecting a USB mouse I get a message telling me to connect a bluetooth keyboard.

 

Since I don't have one I can't get past this screen but I'm sure from now on everything will work great. Tomorrow I'll buy an external USB keyboard so I can move on with my install (I heard that I also can put some PS2 kexts in the installer USB but I don't want to mess with these anymore if there is an alternative).

 

Here are some of my notes until now:

  • Intel HD 5500 is not a issue anymore if you upgrade to the latest BIOS version available on HP website (128MB DVMT memory is not a problem for El Capitan)
  • You must use HFSPlus.efi and not VBoxHfs.efi in EFI/CLOVER/drivers64UEFI/ and you must replace OsxAptioFix2Drv-64.efi with OsxAptioFixDrv-64.efi in the same folder.
  • I used an alternative method to create the bootable USB for El Capitan (can't write the name here, just find another alternative) that works much better than Clover OS X El Capitan USB utility (I just couldn't boot to the install screen by using this utility, I think it has something to do with Clover config).

If everything works great I will make a guide on how to install El Capitan on this notebook but for now I have to get an USB keyboard  :D .

 

Here's a photo (sorry for the bad quality) to prove my progress.

post-1626433-0-05174000-1450203605_thumb.jpg

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I have encountered this but I use RehabMan's VoodooPS2Controller.kext.  When I get to the point that it wants me to connect a mouse and keyboard, the cursor actually moves and there is an arrow I can press to get me past the mouse and keyboard prompts.  If you are using a PS2 kext but can't get past the mouse and keyboard prompts, you can use a USB mouse and keyboard.  Once you get past this, you go into the Bluetooth preferences and uncheck the boxes to prompt you to connect a mouse/keyboard when none are detected.  OS X will not detect your PS2 trackpad/keyboard even when they are functioning.  Hope this helps.

 

BTW - pretty laptop.  Mine is aluminum with black back-lit keys.

 

P.S.- My El Cap installation is so stable that I have OS X on my mSATA SSD and Windows on my HDD (which I upgraded to a 7200 rpm I TB drive.)  I rarely use my Windows installation and instead use Parallels to run Windows 10 but keep all my data for Windows on the Windows drive using Tuxera in OS X. In my second HD bay, I have another 1 TB 7200 rpm drive that I use to store my OS X data (mostly videos and music.)

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Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'm still going for the USB mouse and keyboard combination until I get over the install. Will post more when everything is running as it should  :) .

 

P.S. Envy 17t-3200 looks really amazing, close to a real MacBook.

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Intel HD 5500 is a problematic integrated graphics card for laptops when installing OS X simply because you need at least 96MB of DVMT pre-allocated memory in order to avoid a kernel panic. Most of the laptops manufacturers limit this DVMT pre-allocated memory to 32MB or 64MB and you don't have an option to change that in BIOS, since is locked. You can modify the BIOS by yourself, but there are some risks.

 

So, coming back to DVMT pre-allocated memory, anything lower than 96MB will issue a kernel panic and you won't get to the install screen. Regarding my particular laptop model, I tried to install El Capitan some weeks ago and got some errors that were linked to my integrated graphics (I thought it had to do with this pre-allocated memory from what I've read on forums when looking up for the errors that I got from booting with -v flag).

 

After installing Windows and updating my BIOS to the latest version from HP website I saw that I have 128MB of DVMT pre-allocated memory. Then I tried to install El Capitan again and never got any issues regarding the integrated graphics card or DVMT pre-allocated memory. I don't know if it was the BIOS updated that increased the size of the allocated memory or it was something that I did wrong on the first attempt, I never checked the size of this memory before trying to install OS X for the first time.

 

The conclusion is that Intel HD 5500 (the size of the DVMT memory) is not a problem for this particular model of HP Envy 17t when installing OS X, it works as it should, but I recommend to everyone to update their BIOS before trying.

 

For other laptops with Intel HD 5500 and 32MB or 64MB pre-allocated DVMT memory, your best option is to extract and modify the size from the BIOS settings file (again, risky process).

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Intel HD 5500 is a problematic integrated graphics card for laptops when installing OS X simply because you need at least 96MB of DVMT pre-allocated memory in order to avoid a kernel panic. Most of the laptops manufacturers limit this DVMT pre-allocated memory to 32MB or 64MB and you don't have an option to change that in BIOS, since is locked. You can modify the BIOS by yourself, but there are some risks.

 

So, coming back to DVMT pre-allocated memory, anything lower than 96MB will issue a kernel panic and you won't get to the install screen. Regarding my particular laptop model, I tried to install El Capitan some weeks ago and got some errors that were linked to my integrated graphics (I thought it had to do with this pre-allocated memory from what I've read on forums when looking up for the errors that I got from booting with -v flag).

 

After installing Windows and updating my BIOS to the latest version from HP website I saw that I have 128MB of DVMT pre-allocated memory. Then I tried to install El Capitan again and never got any issues regarding the integrated graphics card or DVMT pre-allocated memory. I don't know if it was the BIOS updated that increased the size of the allocated memory or it was something that I did wrong on the first attempt, I never checked the size of this memory before trying to install OS X for the first time.

 

The conclusion is that Intel HD 5500 (the size of the DVMT memory) is not a problem for this particular model of HP Envy 17t when installing OS X, it works as it should, but I recommend to everyone to update their BIOS before trying.

 

For other laptops with Intel HD 5500 and 32MB or 64MB pre-allocated DVMT memory, your best option is to extract and modify the size from the BIOS settings file (again, risky process).

Ok. ..can you send me in pvt wich model have you. ..link shop on line of course

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Sure, no problem. I'll do my best to post the tutorial this weekend after I have some free time to check what works, what not and what can be fixed and how. The important thing for now is that I reached the installer screen. I'll keep this thread updated.

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Ok guys. Great progress here! I actually booted up to the installer screen without an issue.

 

The only problem right now is that at this stage the installer won't detect my touchpad and my internal keyboard so I have to use external ones. If I boot up without any USB peripherals connected the installer brings up some animations with a mouse and a keyboard. After connecting a USB mouse I get a message telling me to connect a bluetooth keyboard.

 

Since I don't have one I can't get past this screen but I'm sure from now on everything will work great. Tomorrow I'll buy an external USB keyboard so I can move on with my install (I heard that I also can put some PS2 kexts in the installer USB but I don't want to mess with these anymore if there is an alternative).

 

Here are some of my notes until now:

  • Intel HD 5500 is not a issue anymore if you upgrade to the latest BIOS version available on HP website (128MB DVMT memory is not a problem for El Capitan)
  • You must use HFSPlus.efi and not VBoxHfs.efi in EFI/CLOVER/drivers64UEFI/ and you must replace OsxAptioFix2Drv-64.efi with OsxAptioFixDrv-64.efi in the same folder.
  • I used an alternative method to create the bootable USB for El Capitan (can't write the name here, just find another alternative) that works much better than Clover OS X El Capitan USB utility (I just couldn't boot to the install screen by using this utility, I think it has something to do with Clover config).

If everything works great I will make a guide on how to install El Capitan on this notebook but for now I have to get an USB keyboard  :D .

 

Here's a photo (sorry for the bad quality) to prove my progress.

 

 

So any luck with the installation. I have the same system as your but I haven't have any luck getting it to the installation screen Please Can you help me.

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Thanks for the advice, It was very helpful.. I was able to unlock the Bios with an Old Bios Tools to get the Job done. Like you said, I am not sure it worth it.. The Process needs research and it's a very complicated.

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      Time for re-assembly:
       
       
       
      Fan-Bracket:
       

      The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case.
       

      I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand.
       

      The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable).
       

      The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans
      My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm
      They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects)
       

      Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing
       
       
       
      Front-Panel:
       
       

      The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable.
       

      Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing
       

      To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise.
       

      The case without any front-panel board or power-button.
       
      Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases.
      Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match.
       

      Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again.
      Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:
       

      Installation of the front-panel board.
       

      The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted.
       

      The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work.
      I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify.
      Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds.  For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings.
       

      Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector.
       

      Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability.
       
       
       
      DVD / Blu-Ray drive:
       
       

      Eject the disc tray with a  paper clip.
       

      Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture
       

      Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those)
       

      Standoffs installed
       

      Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done.
       
       
       
      PSU (Power Supply Unit):
       
       
      I thought a long time about the perfect PSU.
      I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability.
       

      The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable.
       
      How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU?
      I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing.
      So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound.
      Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.
       
      Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti.
       

      Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.
       

      Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints.
       
      The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension.
      The input-filter is still connected to the socket.
       

      The Apple power-cord.
       
       
      I found the perfect PSU.
      A 600W PSU by Supermicro.
       
      Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive.
      Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU.
       
      The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating.
      That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available.
      Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now)
       
      80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.
       

      All PSUs before they were put in
       

      It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing.
       

      The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord.
       

      Securing the PSU in place
       

      The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts.
      Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug.
      They also have a bigger input filter.
       

      Soldering the extension on.
       

      Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside
       

      PSU inside the original Apple-Housing
       

      All the cables come out near the back of the case.
       

      I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through.
       

      All PSUs are prepared
       

      The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester.
       
      These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal.
       
       
       
      PSU-Cables:
       
       
      - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)
      - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.
      - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)
      - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved
      - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector
      - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved
       

      Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)
       
      You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.
       

      The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)
       
       
       
      HDD-Caddy:
       

      The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone.
       

      Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore)
       

      ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place
       
       
       
      Finished ATX Barebones:
       
       

      Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord
       

      Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover
       

      Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management
       
       
       
      Watercooling (mATX Barebones):
       
       
      Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases.
       
      I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones:
       

      Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case.
       

      This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases
       

      To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top
       

      Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C
       

      Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop.
       

      The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment.
       
      The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+)
       

      Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out.
      You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure).
       
       
       
      Equipment:
       
       
      I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones
       

      Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables)
       
      All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover
       
      I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag.
       
       
       
      Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling:
       
       
      Here are some pictures of the internal layout:
      Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts.
       

      Finished mATX Barebone
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       
       
       
      Types of cases & Barebones:
       
       
      What I have right now:
       
      12 fully modded Barebones:
      6 - mATX - with watercooling
      6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit)
       
      12 “Empty Ones”
      - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel)
      - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel)
       
       
       
      The End:
       
       
      Thats it for now…
      What do you think?
      Was it worth it?
      What hardware would you put in?
      Please let me know…
      ;-)
       
       
      Yours, sincerely
      wise_rice
    • By moman2000
      Hi,
       
      I thought it would be nice that I would be the first here to give my experience with getting Mojave running and mostly working on my system.
       
      My specifications are as follows:
       
      iMac 14,2
       
      GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD5H / Intel Core i7-4770k @ 4.4GHz / 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600MHz
      MSI AMD Radeon HD 7870 2GB OC
      250GB SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND SSD / 120GB OCZ Agility 3 SSD
      1TB 5.4K HDD
       
      I used the config that @MaLd0n helped me with. Seriously, he is a legend. HERE is my Clover Config including everything I use for 10.13 High Sierra and 10.14 Mojave.
       
      Installation Procedure:
       
       
      Create bootable USB media with createinstallmedia - sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ 10.14\ Beta.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/"Insert Volume Name here"  ***** Remove quotation marks!!! 
       
      **"--Applicationpath" is now depreciated and should not be used when making a 10.14 Mojave USB. I do not know if this will change in upcoming releases.
       
      ** ConvertToAPFS is now depreciated and no longer works when installing 10.14 Mojave beta 1. Using the command "--converttoapfs NO" will not work if you use it with "createinstallmedia".
       
      Editing "minstallconfig.xml" within the "macOS Install Data" folder on the target partition chosen during installation to change "ConvertToAPFS" from "TRUE" to "FALSE" would also not disable APFS conversion.
       
      Installation ran through well, but it did restart just after installation began which seemed to have been caused by a crash, but it seemed like it was normal as this happened twice as I tried installing Mojave earlier and the same thing happened. Rebooting again into the installation on the target drive that was selected before described as "macOS Install"  and named "macOS 10.14" resumed installation.
       
      Everything from then on was easy and smooth. I set-up my iCloud and things as such and was brought to the desktop of macOS 10.14 Mojave!
       
       
      What does work:
       
      Graphics (Acceleration/Metal) // 4K video dropped 0 frames // Picture-in-Picture
      Mouse and Keyboard
      USB 3.0 -  Full 5 GBP/s - Only ports above HDMI Port and front I/O
      USB 3.0 under both Intel and Killer Ethernet ports function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Ethernet (only Intel NIC so far) Both NIC's work, Intel I217-V and Killer E2200
      iMessage
      Sleep and Wake
      Shutdown
      Restart
       
      Update #1:
       
      Temporary Fix: ***I have gotten audio to work after browsing Reddit, I stumbled across this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hackintosh/comments/8orn7w/mojave_files_needed/e05kkj9/
       
      Update #2:
       
      I have just found a kext for the on-board Killer E2200 NIC after searching with device and vendor ID's on this forum.
      https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/files/file/313-atherose2200ethernet/
       
      Update #3:
       
      Audio is now fully operational with new version 1.2.8 of AppleALC, from here: 
       
      What does NOT work:
       
      USB 3 under Intel I217-V NIC and Killer E2200 NIC Ethernet Ports // Only function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Audio Temporary fix in Update #1 above   Fixed in Update #3
      Killer E2200 NIC Fixed in Update #2 above
       
       
       
      This is the information I have been able to gather thus far whilst using Mojave.
       
      I hope this helps someone in getting Mojave running on their system.
       
      Regards,
      Mohamed
       
       
      CLOVER_moman2000 No SN.zip







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