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Fabio1971

Installare i driver nVidia su Hackintosh

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1) Installare i driver nVidia

 

2dgjrxt.jpg

 

Requisiti :

 

Driver nVidia : http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/301416-nvidia-web-driver-updates-for-yosemite/  (grazie a fantomas1)

Utilizzare come smbios Mac Pro

 

Procedura:

 

Controllare il vostro smbios.plist di avere un Mac Pro

Installare i driver 

 

2la4s4k.jpg

 

2res60y.jpg

 

2zqwu11.jpg

 

1gm4h1.jpg

 

2vl9ldl.jpg

 

Non riavviamo e rechiamoci in Preferenze di sistema - NVIDIA Driver Manager

 

 

b8me0z.jpg

 

Verifichiamo che sia spuntato la voce "NVIDIA Web Driver"

 

2uhl2m0.jpg

 

Riavviamo e all'avvio digitiamo come flag  nvda_drv=1

 

Adesso in base al bootloader che utilizziamo dobbiamo aggiungere la flag che abbiamo digitato all'avvio, rechiamoci in :

 

x Chameleon/Enoch

 

Finder/nome dell'HD/Extra/org.chameleon.Boot.plist e apriamo

 

2s6n8rn.jpg

 

Aggiungere il seguente codice al file :

<dict>
	<key>Kernel Flags</key>
	<string>nvda_drv=1</string>
</dict>

Salvare e riavviare.

 

x Clover 

 

Montare la partizione EFI/Clover EFIMounter ho Clover Configurator e apriamo il config.plist

 

zxtvm0.jpg

Aggiungere il seguente codice al file :

<key>Boot</key>
	<dict>
		<key>Arguments</key>
		<string>nvda_drv=1 kext-dev-mode=1</string>
	</dict>

Salvare e riavviare. 

 

 

2) Se il modello non è supportato :  

 

Requisiti :

 

Scaricate i driver nVidia : http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/301416-nvidia-web-driver-updates-for-yosemite/

Post 38  (grazie a zhuangzl123)

 

Aprire il Terminale : 

 

15e9yc3.jpg

 

Digitate : 

Last login: Sat Jun 13 10:25:43 on ttys000
iMac-di-Fabio:~ fabio$ pkgutil --expand ~/Desktop/WebDriver-346.01.02f04.pkg ~/Desktop/WebDriver
iMac-di-Fabio:~ fabio$ 

Sulla scrivania vedrete una cartella "WebDriver" apritela e utilizzando con TexEdit modificate il file "Distribution"  

 

2u3xlzq.jpg

if (found_hardware == 0)
a
if (found_hardware == -1) 

Salvare il file, adesso bisogna ricostruire il pacchetto eliminiamo i driver nVidia sulla scrivania e apriamo il Terminale :

 

15e9yc3.jpg

Digitiate :

pkgutil --flatten ~/Desktop/WebDriver ~/Desktop/WebDriver-346.01.02f04.pkg

b6dirt.jpg

Vi troverete sulla scrivania i driver nVidia da installare.

 

Fabio

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    • By wise_rice
      So, I am officially crazy...
      I bought 26 Powermacs (G5)
      And I modded them ALL
      They are now ready for ATX and mATX Mainboards…
      But why 26?
      Did I mention I was crazy?!
      (And they were only sold together…)
       
       
       
      I modded G5 Cases before – They kind of became my passion.
       
      This time I wanted everything to be perfect:
      - Keep as much of the original design as possible
      - Cut as less as possible
      - Since it is impossible to find a G5 Case without dents and scratches, I wanted to paint them, freshly.
       
       

       
      I am done now and it is time to share my experiences:
      It was a rough 6 months from start to finish.
      The project kept me busy during all of the winter.
      I worked every weekend on it, till late.
       
      I need to apologize…
      …to my family for occupying their workshop, guest rooms and garages
      …to my friends for neglecting them during the last months
      …to the dogs and the cat for waking them up from their afternoon nap every now and then (because of the metalwork-noise).
       
      I hope to be able and show everybody that it was worth it - And that someone out there is appreciating the work, as well.
       
      Back me up, guys - Spread the love :-)
       

       

      I believe in Apples high quality and the unique design of Sir Jony Ive
        

      My mods include a preinstalled power supply (and even watercooling on some)
       

      Countless hours of work and high-quality components & tools were used
       
      Of course, you can come and have a look if you are near the South of Germany (or the North of Switzerland).
       
       
       
      Finished Builds:
       
       
      I do not have the money to equip all cases with CPU, RAM and SSDs right now.
      But it would be so much fun to do it, now that all the hard work is done.
       
      I will definitively equip machines later and build completely custom machines
       
      I already equipped two of the shown modded cases with complete hardware.
      One was for a music-studio. One for my brother.
       
      Threads for the finished build projects will be linked here later:
       
      Workstation & Gaming-Beast for my brother:

      - ATX- X99-Mainbaord
      - 8-Core Intel XEON E5-1660 v3 (Overclocked to 4 GHz - all-core)
      - 64GB ECC-RAM (Registered DIMMs) with dual Copper heatsinks & Heatpipes
      - 3x1TB SSD RAID5
      - Two 1080Ti in SLI (two flexible SLI Bridges were later installed)
       
       
      Ryzentosh (For music production studio):

      o mATX Mainboard
      o Ryzen 1700X
      o biggest cooler on the market (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro)
      o 32GB RAM (ECC Unregistered DIMMs) with Aluminium heatsinks
      o 3x1TB SSD RAID5
       

      A finished (painted) case from the outside.
      The Apple logo is gone after painting…
      For the better, I think!
       
       
       
      Preliminaries:
       
       
      All the planning that goes into modding one case actually affected 26 cases. It had to be perfect. That’s why I planned every step and every purchase of parts, meticulously.
      Then I applied every individual operation to all cases, one after another.
       
      This raised the quality of all cases.
       

      The metalwork (Filing, sanding, equalizing, gluing and painting) took a very long time. I don’t even know how many hours it took per case because I always did one individual operation to all cases (e.g. filing or cutting) and then started the next task. It probably took a couple of days per G5.
      Then I broke my shoulder in May 2017 (doing something stupid on an Austrian glacier). That made it harder to do the sanding for a couple of weeks.
      But even though it was painful, I couldn’t stop...
       

       
       
       
      The different case-types:
       
       
      The painting turned out very well.
       
      I chose the best 14 cases after painting and decided to finish modding them, completely.
      I will call these “Barebones” in the following.
      In the pyramid-pictures they are always on top, because they were finished last and taken to the workshop more often.
       
      The 14 best cases got equipped with a 600W PSU, front-panel, water-cooling (for the mATX Barebones), apple power-cables, etc…
       
      They are now proper Barebones. No more hard work needed to finish the build.
      Just missing a motherboard (and maybe hard drives) - and done.
       

      12 other cases did not end up perfectly painted, but still good. Some orange peel here and there. Only 4 of them have stronger orange peel. I will call these 12 cases “Empty Ones” in the following.
       

      An “empty case”
       
      What to do with the “Empty Ones”?
      They are also clean and modded. Ready for ATX or mATX boards, empty PSU-Enclosure…
      One could make furniture or art out of them…
      One could finish the mod with a new front panel.
      Or one could paint them again in a different colour…
      I don’t know…
       
       
       
      Let’s start from the beginning:
       
       
      Delivery: first we sorted the cases from “good condition” to “scratched and scuffed”
      This sorting turned out to be useless, later as I ended up sanding, filling and painting all of them. I chose the best ones in the end.
       

      We disassembled everything and sorted the parts – plastics, aluminium, batteries, electronics, etc… then gave everything to recycling. I am an environmental engineer, so this was important to me. I gave away all parts that could possibly be reused - Like fans, RAM and graphics cards.
      There are no pictures of the disassembly, because it has been done by many people already and we were also too busy (it took a couple of days).
      We ended up making our own tools and screwdrivers for removing the processors and mainboards, because many screws are hard to reach.
       
      All parts that I wanted to keep were cleaned and kept separately. E.g. the fan grilles on the back, the rubber screws for the HDD Caddy or the DVD-drive stand-offs
       
       
       
      Planning & Conversion
       
      Then I made a plan for the easiest ATX conversion with the least cutting.
      Best thing to do: Cut an opening to the back - big enough for ATX boards I/O and reuse the original PCIe slots for graphics cards. This turned out to be just perfect. I tested different boards. E.g.: ASUS TUF X99 (ATX) and ASrock AB350M (mATX)
       
       

      Night shift – working with the Dremel
       

      First cut for the ATX Mainboard I/O.
      All the Internals are removed. Also, the fan grille with its many mini-screws. So that the plastic is not melting.
       

      Cut-out (before filing and sanding). Sharp edges. Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges.
      Then the filing and sanding removed all sharp edges.
       

      I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy. This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils.
       

      I made two different stencils. One for ATX Boards and one for mATX Boards:
       

      Putting the standoff through the stencil and securing it with a screw
       

      Cleaning the surface before gluing.

      Both stencils with standoffs and fresh glue – right before placing it in the cases
       

      ATX stencil in the case – gluing down the standoffs.
       

      mATX stencil while gluing. It had to sit like this over night to make sure the glue is hard.
       
      Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. All stand-offs / threads are in the right position for standart mainboards, now.
       

      Now that all the disassembly, cutting and gluing was done it was time for some fresh paint.
       
       
       
      The painting:
       
      Before painting it was necessary to fill dents, file edges (there were chips, especially on the feet) and sand EVERYTHING to smoothen the surface and remove unwanted oils.
      Fill, file, sand, repeat…
      I used 2K Aluminium epoxy to fill dents

       

      The Epoxy is like a cold weld. Hard and sturdy.
       

      Dents before filling
       

      Dents after filling - before sanding
       

      More filling
       

      Filled and sanded case.
       

      At first I did not want to paint them myself.
      So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks).
      They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts.
       
       

      The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint…
       
      I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach.
      So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...)
      What a fool I was.
      This took a week.
       
      First of all, I needed a cleanroom.
      So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden.
       

      Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time
       

      Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm.
       

      To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would  leave  marks on the fresh paint).
       

      I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before.
       

      Paint-Shed from the inside
       

      Hanging case before spray-painting
       

      Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time.
      All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats.
       

      After spray-painting it was time for drying
       

      The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in.
       
       
      The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result:
       
       

       

       

       

       
       

      The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4.
      The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards.
      Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link?
       

       

       

       
       
       
      The “Empty Ones”:
       
      This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin:
       

      Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet.
       

      An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards.
       

      Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans.
       

      A finished ”empty” mATX case
       

      You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones”
       
       
       
      I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones:
       
      Time for re-assembly:
       
       
       
      Fan-Bracket:
       

      The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case.
       

      I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand.
       

      The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable).
       

      The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans
      My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm
      They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects)
       

      Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing
       
       
       
      Front-Panel:
       
       

      The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable.
       

      Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing
       

      To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise.
       

      The case without any front-panel board or power-button.
       
      Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases.
      Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match.
       

      Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again.
      Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:
       

      Installation of the front-panel board.
       

      The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted.
       

      The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work.
      I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify.
      Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds.  For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings.
       

      Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector.
       

      Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability.
       
       
       
      DVD / Blu-Ray drive:
       
       

      Eject the disc tray with a  paper clip.
       

      Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture
       

      Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those)
       

      Standoffs installed
       

      Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done.
       
       
       
      PSU (Power Supply Unit):
       
       
      I thought a long time about the perfect PSU.
      I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability.
       

      The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable.
       
      How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU?
      I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing.
      So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound.
      Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.
       
      Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti.
       

      Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.
       

      Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints.
       
      The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension.
      The input-filter is still connected to the socket.
       

      The Apple power-cord.
       
       
      I found the perfect PSU.
      A 600W PSU by Supermicro.
       
      Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive.
      Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU.
       
      The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating.
      That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available.
      Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now)
       
      80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.
       

      All PSUs before they were put in
       

      It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing.
       

      The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord.
       

      Securing the PSU in place
       

      The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts.
      Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug.
      They also have a bigger input filter.
       

      Soldering the extension on.
       

      Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside
       

      PSU inside the original Apple-Housing
       

      All the cables come out near the back of the case.
       

      I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through.
       

      All PSUs are prepared
       

      The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester.
       
      These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal.
       
       
       
      PSU-Cables:
       
       
      - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)
      - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.
      - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)
      - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved
      - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector
      - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved
       

      Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)
       
      You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.
       

      The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)
       
       
       
      HDD-Caddy:
       

      The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone.
       

      Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore)
       

      ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place
       
       
       
      Finished ATX Barebones:
       
       

      Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord
       

      Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover
       

      Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management
       
       
       
      Watercooling (mATX Barebones):
       
       
      Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases.
       
      I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones:
       

      Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case.
       

      This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases
       

      To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top
       

      Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C
       

      Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop.
       

      The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment.
       
      The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+)
       

      Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out.
      You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure).
       
       
       
      Equipment:
       
       
      I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones
       

      Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables)
       
      All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover
       
      I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag.
       
       
       
      Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling:
       
       
      Here are some pictures of the internal layout:
      Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts.
       

      Finished mATX Barebone
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       
       
       
      Types of cases & Barebones:
       
       
      What I have right now:
       
      12 fully modded Barebones:
      6 - mATX - with watercooling
      6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit)
       
      12 “Empty Ones”
      - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel)
      - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel)
       
       
       
      The End:
       
       
      Thats it for now…
      What do you think?
      Was it worth it?
      What hardware would you put in?
      Please let me know…
      ;-)
       
       
      Yours, sincerely
      wise_rice
    • By moman2000
      Hi,
       
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      My specifications are as follows:
       
      iMac 14,2
       
      GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD5H / Intel Core i7-4770k @ 4.4GHz / 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600MHz
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      250GB SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND SSD / 120GB OCZ Agility 3 SSD
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      Create bootable USB media with createinstallmedia - sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ 10.14\ Beta.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/"Insert Volume Name here"  ***** Remove quotation marks!!! 
       
      **"--Applicationpath" is now depreciated and should not be used when making a 10.14 Mojave USB. I do not know if this will change in upcoming releases.
       
      ** ConvertToAPFS is now depreciated and no longer works when installing 10.14 Mojave beta 1. Using the command "--converttoapfs NO" will not work if you use it with "createinstallmedia".
       
      Editing "minstallconfig.xml" within the "macOS Install Data" folder on the target partition chosen during installation to change "ConvertToAPFS" from "TRUE" to "FALSE" would also not disable APFS conversion.
       
      Installation ran through well, but it did restart just after installation began which seemed to have been caused by a crash, but it seemed like it was normal as this happened twice as I tried installing Mojave earlier and the same thing happened. Rebooting again into the installation on the target drive that was selected before described as "macOS Install"  and named "macOS 10.14" resumed installation.
       
      Everything from then on was easy and smooth. I set-up my iCloud and things as such and was brought to the desktop of macOS 10.14 Mojave!
       
       
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      Graphics (Acceleration/Metal) // 4K video dropped 0 frames // Picture-in-Picture
      Mouse and Keyboard
      USB 3.0 -  Full 5 GBP/s - Only ports above HDMI Port and front I/O
      USB 3.0 under both Intel and Killer Ethernet ports function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Ethernet (only Intel NIC so far) Both NIC's work, Intel I217-V and Killer E2200
      iMessage
      Sleep and Wake
      Shutdown
      Restart
       
      Update #1:
       
      Temporary Fix: ***I have gotten audio to work after browsing Reddit, I stumbled across this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/hackintosh/comments/8orn7w/mojave_files_needed/e05kkj9/
       
      Update #2:
       
      I have just found a kext for the on-board Killer E2200 NIC after searching with device and vendor ID's on this forum.
      https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/files/file/313-atherose2200ethernet/
       
      Update #3:
       
      Audio is now fully operational with new version 1.2.8 of AppleALC, from here: 
       
      What does NOT work:
       
      USB 3 under Intel I217-V NIC and Killer E2200 NIC Ethernet Ports // Only function with USB 2.0 devices.
      Audio Temporary fix in Update #1 above   Fixed in Update #3
      Killer E2200 NIC Fixed in Update #2 above
       
       
       
      This is the information I have been able to gather thus far whilst using Mojave.
       
      I hope this helps someone in getting Mojave running on their system.
       
      Regards,
      Mohamed
       
       
      CLOVER_moman2000 No SN.zip







    • By SAMEH209
      I've successfully installed High Sierra (10.13.0) on my system using Clover:
      2x Intel Xeon E5410
      16GB Ram
      GTX 950
      Everything is running fine except the GPU. I've tried the web driver's latest version and 378.10.10.10.25.106 but both are very laggy/sluggish.
      I've also tried installing Lilu and nVidiaGraphicsFixUp kexts but they didn't change anything.
      Have someone managed to make this card work with High Sierra?
    • By ITzTravelInTime
      KX AUDIO DRIVER MOD
       
      Hi guys i am a small developer, i really like to use my sound blaster cards on my machines and i love also coding, so when i find the source code for the kx audio driver on git hub and then Eugene, the creator of kx audio driver decided to no longer maintain the project, i decided to start working on a mod of this driver. 
       
      With my mod, created starting from the sources of the last version of kx audio driver, and also by using apple developer documentation for pci and audio drivers as reference, i am working to achieve 2 things mainly: get all the cards supported by the driver to work with all the recent versions os macOS and add support for other cards that are not officially supported by the driver that works or could, but needs to be more properly supported.
       
      This driver is made to support cards based on the E-mu 10k1, 10k2 and similars (like what is used by audigy rx and audigy 4 cards).
       
      Supported cards are:
       
       - most of the sound blaster live!, live! 5.1 and live! 5.1 digital series
       - sound blaster 512
       - sound blaster 256
       - other creative and e-mu sound cards based on the 10k1 chip (cards with the ES1370/ES1371/ES1372/ES1373 chips are not supported)
       - sound blaster Audigy series (1 st gen)
       - sound blaster Audigy 2  and audigy 2 zs series
       - E-MU cards based on the 10k2 sound chip
       - Some Audigy 4 cards (SB0610 only) and the audigy 4 pro
       - Sound blaster Audigy RX (sb0155)
       - other creative and e-mu cards based on the (10k2, 10k2,5 and CA10300 based cards)
       
      NOT supported cards:
       
       - Any ISA Sound card
       - ES1370/ES1371/ES1372/ES1373 based sound cards
       - CMI8738/CMI8788 based cards
       - Any CA0106 based card and cards with similar architectures (like sound blaster live! 24 bit, sound blaster audigy SE SB0570, audigy LS and similars, but audigy SA is supported)
       - Any sound blaster x-fi (some of them works on macOS using a modified version of voodoo hda)
       - Any sound blaster recon3D
       - Any sound blaster Z/ZS/ZX and similar series
       - Any sound blaster AE5 series
       
      In the time being the things i have modded or added with this mod are:
       
      - increased the simple buffer frames number with different values for emu10k1 based cards and emu10k2 based cards (including recent audigy 4 and rx) to reduce and all the audio cracking issues and possibly fixing all of them on a lot of cards
       
      - added a more proper support for the pci express sound blaster audigy rx (which basically is an audigy 4 with a pcie bridge chip) 
       
      - added more fancy names for the cards in the settings and other menus (so the name will be, for example, SB live! 5.1 SB0060 instead of kx SB0060 [e880] witch was shown in the original driver)
       
      - added support to sample rate changing and added lots of sample rates (from 8 khz to 176,4 khz) to accomodate any possible usecase (note that 10k1 sound cards are limited up to 48khz sample rate, and 10k2 based cards are limited to 176,4 khz because of issues getting 192 khz to work, for now the driver goes up to 176,4 khz for such cards) 
       
      - added boot args to manage the driver:
       
      Boot args to use with the kx audio driver mod: -kx_disable or -kxdisable or -kxoff This will prevent the driver from doing any initialization work, so the driver is basically disabled, use it to boot your ssytem in case the driver is giving you issues and kernel panics while you are trying to boot/using your system, so you are able to remove this driver or replace it with another version of it or to do some truble shooting. -kx_debug or -kxdebug or -kxspec Will show more debug info about the card, mainly the i/o port address and the kind of bus that it uses -kx_exp_deb or -kx_beta or -kxbeta Will enable experimental and probably not working or unstable features like showing inputs for the card or 192 khz sampling rate, use it only for testing and debug purposes, this may likely cause instability and problems in the everyday usage! Use it at your own risk! -kx_original or -kxoriginal This will basically turn off almost all the mods of this mod, so the driver will come to work as it was before modding it, this can be usefoul as a "safe mode" like feture to have a working driver in case of problems with features of the mod, so using this means no crsking issues improvements, only 48 khz sample rate and only features of the non-modded kx audio driver for mac os x  
      - created a script file to use with the driver for installing the driver and also to load/unload, update, repolace it and it's libraries.
       
      What i'd like to implement but i don't know how to do:
       
       - I'd like mainly to add a more proper support to the pci bridge chip of the audigy rx,
       
       - have audio inputs working,
       
       - fix the support when using more than one card, to get all the cards shown in the settings and other menus,
       
       - have the gameport/midi port of older cards to be used in mac os as a midi in/out
       
      If other developers would like to join and help me, you can, and also an hand from other people with testing and feedback will be nice.
       
      link for the kext only (if you have clover put it in [your clover efi folder]/clover/kexts/[your macOS version]/ so it will not be deleted when updating macOS):
               - download from the downloads section:          kX Audio Driver Mod by ITzTravelInTime 1.01                                                                                    - external download:                                      https://dl.dropboxus...Driver.kext.zip   link for the installer pack (the best way to install it, but you have to reinstall it when you upgrade macOS, remeber to fix kext permitions and rebuild the kernelcache if you want to remove the kext from it's install directory without using the unistall feature of the provvided script):              - download:                                                   https://dl.dropboxus...aller pack.zip   Source code from Git Hub:          -  github repo:                                               https://github.com/ITzTravelInTime/kx-audio-driver   NOTE: Some system because of some problems with the HPET may need to use FixHPET in clover and to install the kext in /System/Library/Extensions or to do other kind of hpet mods to run the driver properly, but only on some systems, most systems should not require it  






    • By rvxtm
      Hello,
       
      Maybe i am the only one seeing this or maybe i am doing something wrong but my resize animation performance in HS 10.13.5 is terrible.
      I did a clean install of 10.13.5, installed the latest nvidia drivers 387.10.10.10.35.106. 
      My GPU is a GTX1060 connected via DP to a 4k display.
      Now, the issue, when i open an empty TextEdit for example, if i drag the corner of the window to make it larger, it lags more and more as the size increases.
      I also have Adobe Audition CC installed for my work, the interface is very slow compared to the windows version (my 2011 macbook pro is much faster, but it's not 4k).
      Is there a known issue when running 4k on nvidia web drivers ?
      It's very frustrating because i've been using custom machines with 1080p displays and nvidia cards since Snow Leopard, but i was always butter smooth.
       
      Thanks.
       
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