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      Hello folks! As some things are being fixed, we'll keep you updated. Per hour the Forum Rules don't have a dedicated "Tab", so here is the place that we have our Rules back. New Users Lounge > [READ] - InsanelyMac Forum Rules - The InsanelyMac Staff Team. 

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It seems to be a good cable for the EU sockets but it isn't exactly the same as mine, mine has another design at one end.

But mind you, it could also be this cable: http://store.apple4less.com/Apple-Power-Mac-G5-Late-2005-Power-Cable-Lead-EU-p/pcg5-eu-a.htm

 

Check this to make sure you get the right one.

 

Just to make sure, I only used the original plug (extension), not the PSU itself: http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/287444-phunczzs-g5-homage-project/?do=findComment&comment=1901746

But in the end, the AC 230V is just a normal 230V plug, you just need to figure out the pins.

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Ok, but the cable i have posted it fit in the atx psu, the cable you have posted not fit, because have diverse pin connectors.

I modding an G5 case, but i don have the original psu and use the standard atx psu, this cable serves me for close the hole in the original case.

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I finally got around to fixing the rear I/O port clip I got a while back from MiniHack. First, the network cable:

 

1oqnafH.png

I soldered the CAT5E cables straight to the top of the green PCB you see from the back of the port. I used hotglue to keep the wires from becoming loose or having a short, since it's a good isolator. I also tied it down by drilling two holes and pulling a zip-tie through.

 

6GnCnLR.png

The USB ports. This was a challenge, for my as a noob to solder (in the end my dad did it properly) but also for the confusing way it was wired. I looked at someone else's schematic and it was the wrong way, I decided it was easier to flip the onboard connector than to redo the soldering. I lost a cheap, old wireless mouse testing it, but now it works :)

 

VvLjJ43.png

Here you can see how it is secured. Luckily MiniHack left me just enough of PCB to leave the original screwholes partially intact, so I was able to use the extender-like things to screw it down.

 

HmNBv3C.png

Overview, you can barely see the PCB below the fan bracket. On top you see the gray-sleeved cable for the USB header and you can just see the gray-sleeved going to the PCIe network card. The problem is, the HDMI doesn't fit anymore due to the ports of the rear I/O clip and the rather large HDMI plug. So I'll need to get an angle adapter through DX.com

 

oBHbOEo.png

Finished ! Although the rear I/O clip was of a motherboard without a RJ11 plug (leftmost opening), I don't really mind. The other ports I'll leave as-is, because I will only be using this case as a NAS for the foreseable future and the only things I have connected all the time are LAN and power, the USB and HDMI are for troubleshooting or installing purposes (hurray for web interfaces)

 

 

I'll be adding a few 120mm fans to the HDD-rack soon. It's not that I feel it's needed for the temperatures, but the rear 92mm fans are somehow still gathering dust. I got a custom Demciflex dust filter which blankets the entire front. I noticed Noctua has nice light + dark gray fans (Redux) which I'll be trying out. They also have these in 92mm, so I might change those in the rear too.

I'll also be adding blank PCI bracket plates (like the HDMI one) to prevent dus from being pulled in through those holes.

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I finally got around to fixing the rear I/O port clip I got a while back from MiniHack. First, the network cable:

 

1oqnafH.png

I soldered the CAT5E cables straight to the top of the green PCB you see from the back of the port. I used hotglue to keep the wires from becoming loose or having a short, since it's a good isolator. I also tied it down by drilling two holes and pulling a zip-tie through.

 

6GnCnLR.png

The USB ports. This was a challenge, for my as a noob to solder (in the end my dad did it properly) but also for the confusing way it was wired. I looked at someone else's schematic and it was the wrong way, I decided it was easier to flip the onboard connector than to redo the soldering. I lost a cheap, old wireless mouse testing it, but now it works :)

 

VvLjJ43.png

Here you can see how it is secured. Luckily MiniHack left me just enough of PCB to leave the original screwholes partially intact, so I was able to use the extender-like things to screw it down.

 

HmNBv3C.png

Overview, you can barely see the PCB below the fan bracket. On top you see the gray-sleeved cable for the USB header and you can just see the gray-sleeved going to the PCIe network card. The problem is, the HDMI doesn't fit anymore due to the ports of the rear I/O clip and the rather large HDMI plug. So I'll need to get an angle adapter through DX.com

 

oBHbOEo.png

Finished ! Although the rear I/O clip was of a motherboard without a RJ11 plug (leftmost opening), I don't really mind. The other ports I'll leave as-is, because I will only be using this case as a NAS for the foreseable future and the only things I have connected all the time are LAN and power, the USB and HDMI are for troubleshooting or installing purposes (hurray for web interfaces)

 

 

I'll be adding a few 120mm fans to the HDD-rack soon. It's not that I feel it's needed for the temperatures, but the rear 92mm fans are somehow still gathering dust. I got a custom Demciflex dust filter which blankets the entire front. I noticed Noctua has nice light + dark gray fans (Redux) which I'll be trying out. They also have these in 92mm, so I might change those in the rear too.

I'll also be adding blank PCI bracket plates (like the HDMI one) to prevent dus from being pulled in through those holes.

Hi Phunczz,

 

Re-using the old G5 In/Out PCB is, for me, the best choice in order to preserve the Mac spirit.

 

Niko-Studio

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