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So I got a hold on a pretty complete and OK state PowerMac G5 case, without the logic board and no PSU, although the PSU casing is present. I actually didn't know what to do with it when I bought it, all I knew is wanted to do a project with a Mac Pro or PowerMac G5 for a very long time.

 

Here are some photos:

 

1SiepSF.jpg

 

QzWLL9p.jpg

 

In the foto's above I removed the optical drive since I'll probably not use it or replace it with a SATA one, it's just not a priority at all. It also has no physical damage except some scratches. I don't know if I'll leave it like that or I'll treat it with a new coat of anodising, it's also one of the last things on my mind.

 

The plan now is to make it into a NAS, since I need lots of room for disks and this case can supply me with that space. I want to get about 8 hard drives in there as a starting point in the same way as another modder did. But I'm contemplating on using the Mac Pro hard drive brackets with a custom-built system to hang them all horizontally, in a vertical arrangement.

 

If anyone has the exact measurements of those Mac Pro HDD trays, I owe you one.

 

I'm also planning of putting the entire motherboard inside, using a seperate custom board for the connections on the back. I saw that someone was making them as a project, but it didn't include the FireWire or optical ports, which I intend to do include. I'm still not sure if this is doable but this project doesn't need to be finished any time soon, so I'll probably get this done later anyway.

 

As the PC hardware goes, nothing is set in stone. It depends when most of the work is complete and how much disposable income I have at that time I guess. At the moment I'm thinking it will be my retiring current system, which is the following:

- micro-ATX Asus P5E-VM HDMI (onboard video)

- Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6850

- 8GB Corsair Dominator DDR2 PC2-8500

- bunch of 3,5" hard drives

 

I also have a Scythe Mugen II CPU-cooler somewhere that I never got to install due to my current case not having enough room.

 

As the power supply I'm not sure what I will do, except that I will use the hidden compartment and the case of the original PSU to get one in there. I have an Antec NeoPower Blue 650W PSU and a Shuttle PC50 250W PSU (very compact), not sure which one to use yet but I have options.

 

Also something worth mentioning: the standard 120mm fan is specced at 12V and 0.37A, while the two 60mm fans in the Apple PSU case are specced at 12V and 0.17A each. This results in a nice 0.34A when both are connected, so the PSU can use them without a problem.

 

This is what I'm planning for the PSU:

 

The original PSU:

 

ICgIZDT.jpg

 

Placement:

 

LZRCU46.jpg

 

What I'm going for:

 

RdGFSuo.jpg

 

The plan is to have the modular ports exposed so I can easily add cables. Not certain about this though, but it's an option.

 

Since I'll only need two SATA powercables for the Corsair SATA backplane kits, I decided it was easier to just solder the cables to the PSU PCB:

 

hW4oWxq.jpg

 

I also connected the fans which just work because they have a comparable power draw (12V 0.17A x2 vs 12V 0.37A) as the Antec's original fan.

You can also see I provisioned a connector for the PSU, should I ever decide to change it, it will be easier.

 

And this is how it looks with the shelf on the PSU:

 

91pvV4F.jpg

 

I also put the rear fan frame in for reference.

 

Fans:

 

aIRCJor.jpg

 

2x Noctua NF-B9 fans and 1x Noctua NF-R8 fan to replace the original fans. I needed the included rubber mounts for the 80mm fan as I managed to break off two of the 10-year old original ones. Luckily they won't be in the direct line of sight when you open the case. The ones on the 92mm fan bracket I managed to preserve.

 

h50sOIo.jpg

 

2x Corsair SATA 6Gbps Upgrade kit for 800D. This is basically a very cheap and elegant solution to add multiple SATA ports, only uses one port for power and comes included with a nice male-female cable. I plan on using these in the front of the case.

 

 

On the overall look, I want to keep it as clean as possible and as original as possible. When all the preparations are complete, I'll likely include the G5 shield to cover the motherboard. I've already ordered replacement fans (from Noctua) and two 4-port SATA backplane kits from Corsair, along with the front-panel I/O cable from BlackCH.

 

Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome !

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First update:

 

Today I emptied the entire case and I started work on the PSU. I have an Antec NeoPower Blue 650W PSU as a donor and it fits. Also something worth mentioning: the standard 120mm fan is specced at 12V and 0.37A, while the two 60mm fans in the Apple PSU case are specced at 12V and 0.17A each. This results in a nice 0.34A when both are connected, so the PSU can use them without a problem.

 

This is what I'm planning for the PSU:

 

The original PSU:

 

ICgIZDT.jpg

 

Placement:

 

LZRCU46.jpg

 

What I'm going for:

 

RdGFSuo.jpg

 

The plan is to have the modular ports exposed so I can easily add cables.

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I'm always a fan or reusing the original TeslaConverter shell. I had that big debate of should I modify the shell for the plugs, or just tuck it all inside the shell. I went with tucking it in the shell, because those cables are long so it helps with management, and also - how often will you be changing/adding/removing those cables? I can anticipate me adding maybe two more cables ever (one for more HDD and one for a second GPU) - and those are maybes. If you are going for the clean look, I would suggest you think about your future potential for this machine before you cut something. If you aren't worried about the stock look, then cut away!!

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Yeah like you said: I'm not entirely sure I'd ever NEED the capability to add or remove cables. Because it's going to be a NAS for probably it's entire lifetime, I won't be messing around with GPU's and extra fans that would potentially need more cables. Also the Corsair backplane kits only need one power plug for four disks, so I can basically use one SATA-power cable, the 24-pin plug and the 4-pin plug to power the entire system.

 

The easier way is to just leave everything inside, as it requires zero modification. I'll post what I'll decide to do.

Basically, I don't have most of the hardware available yet to finish the computer part inside the case, I'm just preparing for "it's arrival" :) But I'll need plenty of time to figure out the drive cages anyway because I want a reliable and "worthy" solution.

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Another update, some ordered parts have arrived:

 

aIRCJor.jpg

 

2x Noctua NF-B9 fans and 1x Noctua NF-R8 fan to replace the original fans. I needed the included rubber mounts for the 80mm fan as I managed to break off two of the 10-year old original ones. Luckily they won't be in the direct line of sight when you open the case. The ones on the 92mm fan bracket I managed to preserve.

 

h50sOIo.jpg

 

2x Corsair SATA 6Gbps Upgrade kit for 800D. This is basically a very cheap and elegant solution to add multiple SATA ports, only uses one port for power and comes included with a nice male-female cable. I plan on using these in the front of the case.

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Thx I actually found them through another G5 modder !

 

Since I'll only need two SATA powercables for the Corsair SATA backplane kits, I decided it was easier to just solder the cables to the PSU PCB:

 

hW4oWxq.jpg

 

I also connected the fans which just work because they have a comparable power draw (12V 0.17A x2 vs 12V 0.37A) as the Antec's original fan.

You can also see I provisioned a connector for the PSU, should I ever decide to change it, it will be easier.

 

And this is how it looks with the shelf on the PSU:

 

91pvV4F.jpg

 

I also put the rear fan frame in for reference.

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I really like the SATA solution you have chosen, looking forward to more updates!!

 

These are the same Corsair plates I use in my hotswapper.....

 

p1111382.jpg

 

Need to be very precise with the alignment of the disks to the SATA plugs, but they are definitely the way to go. Not found any better. I only managed to squeeze 7 of the 8 though in the case between the top shelf and the power supply [i cut the bottom SATA connector from the board].

 

They have quite a lot of spacing between disks and so are easy to keep cool too.

 

Phunccz - I like the way you are going with your build. Looks very good and clean.

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Thanks, I do find it strange that you could only fit 7 of the 8 drives, to me it seemed like 8 would fit. But I'll have to double-check that again. Thank you for your contribution to the community with your solutions, yours were the first I was looking into.

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Thanks, I do find it strange that you could only fit 7 of the 8 drives, to me it seemed like 8 would fit. But I'll have to double-check that again. Thank you for your contribution to the community with your solutions, yours were the first I was looking into.

 

Yes, you might be right there.

 

I was limited by the materials and solution i adopted as for my acrylic holder i am using the fixing points of the fans to secure some of the HD rails in position and had to juggle the dimensions a little. The config. I settled on gave a nice fan mount plus disk storage compromise. If you are not limited by that then you could push the top plate up a little more than i have it and close the gap between the two SATA backplanes and it may just fit all 8 in that space. Also I have a 5mm acrylic slab top and bottom so take those away and there is another 1 cm to play with. I didn't bother trying harder to get the 8th drive in because I figured a mobo is likely to have 8 SATA ports and seven HDs plus 1 SATA DVD is 8....

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I might have found something useful for the HDD mounting at my local hardware store:

 

zJhMby6.jpg

 

QCVpcQz.jpg

 

It's an anodized aluminium beam meant as a curtain hanger. It roughly matches the interior color (different texture) but only to the keen eye. I'm pondering this as a good way to mount the hard drives with some rubber "wheels", but it could also be used to attach the SATA-backplane I guess. Still not sure what I'll do with it, depends on how easy I find something useful as a harddisk suspension mechanism.

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I might have found something useful for the HDD mounting at my local hardware store:

 

zJhMby6.jpg

 

QCVpcQz.jpg

 

It's an anodized aluminium beam meant as a curtain hanger. It roughly matches the interior color (different texture) but only to the keen eye. I'm pondering this as a good way to mount the hard drives with some rubber "wheels", but it could also be used to attach the SATA-backplane I guess. Still not sure what I'll do with it, depends on how easy I find something useful as a harddisk suspension mechanism.

 

That may do it.

 

This is what I made my first one out of (before I got the cutter).

 

post-255812-0-10946800-1365081664_thumb.jpg

 

Basically channel, plus some vertical bits and a couple of Phobya fan shrouds.

 

Worked well.

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Yeah that's what I'm thinking about although my mind is still set on using the Apple Mac Pro hard drive sleds, but they will probably require some decent amount of work to fit. Maybe if I find a Mac Pro case for cheap... But those tend to be rare.

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Yeah that's what I'm thinking about although my mind is still set on using the Apple Mac Pro hard drive sleds, but they will probably require some decent amount of work to fit. Maybe if I find a Mac Pro case for cheap... But those tend to be rare.

 

I just happen to have a set of four of those here that I am not planning on using at the moment.....

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Not much happened in the last week as I was focused on my ICT admin education. Today I received the front-panel I/O cable from BlackCH, looks very nice ! I'm also awaiting a package from MiniHack, who happened to have a set of Mac Pro drive sleds he wanted to part with. Once these arrive, I can start thinking about the 7 or 8 disk storage bays I want to fabricate !

 

Still looking for some random hardware to stress-test the PSU, because it was modified, I want to make sure it works properly before I fry decent hardware.

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MiniHack: I'm contemplating the motherboard tray again and since I want to use the original port locations (maybe a homemade PCB, not sure yet), I thought I couldn't use your motherboard tray. But looking at your website I'm in doubt, maybe it just might still work ! apparently I can !

 

P8040921-e1348147205181.jpg

 

With your motherboard tray, would I be able to still put a small & thin PCB were the original back I/O connectors used to be ? And if so, how much room is there ?

 

EDIT: nevermind, I didn't see the image above but now I see this is going to work. Excellent, I'll place my order soon !

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Today I received four Mac Pro hard disk sled, so I can start contemplating a system to store the hard disks. When I have the time, I'll post my findings !

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Great, looking forward to it ! It would be a nice change to just bolt something without problems, at the moment I'm struggling with an SSD that started to spew "bad sectors" at me and I managed to destroy the network stack (couldn't even ping itself !) from a more complex setup in my training. Casemodding seems so easy and straight-forward sometimes :hammer:

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The motherboard tray from MiniHack / thelaserhive.com arrived today (thx dude, fast shipping !) and I installed it. I didn't look at the installation instructions before I ordered it and I didn't know that I had to cut off some of the stand-offs, so it was a little more work than I anticipated. I thought they would come off willingly, but apparently, Apple's subsidiary secured them really well. So with the proper tools those stand-offs got cut faster than I shave and with some more manual labor they were a little more finished.

 

After about an hour total I got this:

 

1Yoilod.jpg

 

Yes, the protective film is still on it. That's because I'm not done yet at all with this case, still have to fabricate the storage system to the left of the motherboard tray and still have to find some hardware to test the PSU. Also, I'm waiting on the new Haswell chips to arrive from Intel and a nice mITX motherboard to use in my main computer (the G5 is going to be a NAS case), so this project will probably be really really finished somewhere around August when the Ncase M1 gets delivered and a nice H87 or Z87 mITX motherboard finds it's way to retail.

 

Next up: storage system !!

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Keep on going, you are on the right tracks and yes, it is an on going process. I start mine in 2008 en is still nearly finished. :moil:

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Thanks for the support ! But I'm going to finish it this year, no matter what. The case should be complete in the summer, probably. I don't like projects not being finished, I'm already feeling like I'm slacking off :)

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For your case you didn't need to cut standoffs, just remove a few.

 

What was in the instructions was to use the shelf screw points (which I see you did) and then look at which standoffs you have for securing the bottom of the tray. In yours I see you have standoffs outside the mobo footprint and you used those (three or four) to secure it.

 

The other ones, the ones inside the mobo footprint that you don't have to use, you could have just used the sideways tap with a hammer method and they pop right out......

 

Only times you need to shorten original standoffs is for those few cases and kits where there are no convenient points at the bottom to secure the tray too.

 

:D Never mind though, you did a great job.

 

You have though prompted me to notice that I need to re-write those instructions again as I have just re-read the "original mATX kit" instructions and see that they do not specifically mention the sideways hammer tap method for standoff removal. :wallbash:

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Yeah, I meant I needed to remove those useless ball-headed stand-offs either way, I thought they were screwed in but the were not :/ And because I basically had to cut off three, why not just cut the ones that were in my way :) But indeed, I didn't know about the hamer-tap method. Not a problem, those things got shreded anyway :D

 

I indeed looked at the bottom three to use as the reference, since it seemed to fit there. I found two more that worked out, one on the far right and one on the far left, just above the center line. It feels sturdy enough that it will never come off so I'm happy with that. The top three I need to secured when I put the top shelf back in but the screws in the package weren't long enough or I'm missing something. The top shelf should be sandwiched in between the sidepanel of the case and the plexi motherboard tray, right ? But no worries, my dad always collected thousands of screws so I'll find the ones I need in no-time.

 

Basically, your tray saved me incredible amounts of time, money and headaches, so I'm very happy with your product !

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      The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in.
       
       
      The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result:
       
       

       

       

       

       
       

      The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4.
      The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards.
      Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link?
       

       

       

       
       
       
      The “Empty Ones”:
       
      This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin:
       

      Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet.
       

      An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards.
       

      Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans.
       

      A finished ”empty” mATX case
       

      You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones”
       
       
       
      I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones:
       
      Time for re-assembly:
       
       
       
      Fan-Bracket:
       

      The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case.
       

      I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand.
       

      The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable).
       

      The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans
      My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm
      They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects)
       

      Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing
       
       
       
      Front-Panel:
       
       

      The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable.
       

      Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing
       

      To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise.
       

      The case without any front-panel board or power-button.
       
      Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases.
      Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match.
       

      Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again.
      Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:
       

      Installation of the front-panel board.
       

      The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted.
       

      The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work.
      I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify.
      Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds.  For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings.
       

      Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector.
       

      Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability.
       
       
       
      DVD / Blu-Ray drive:
       
       

      Eject the disc tray with a  paper clip.
       

      Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture
       

      Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those)
       

      Standoffs installed
       

      Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done.
       
       
       
      PSU (Power Supply Unit):
       
       
      I thought a long time about the perfect PSU.
      I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability.
       

      The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable.
       
      How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU?
      I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing.
      So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound.
      Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.
       
      Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti.
       

      Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.
       

      Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints.
       
      The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension.
      The input-filter is still connected to the socket.
       

      The Apple power-cord.
       
       
      I found the perfect PSU.
      A 600W PSU by Supermicro.
       
      Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive.
      Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU.
       
      The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating.
      That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available.
      Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now)
       
      80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.
       

      All PSUs before they were put in
       

      It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing.
       

      The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord.
       

      Securing the PSU in place
       

      The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts.
      Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug.
      They also have a bigger input filter.
       

      Soldering the extension on.
       

      Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside
       

      PSU inside the original Apple-Housing
       

      All the cables come out near the back of the case.
       

      I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through.
       

      All PSUs are prepared
       

      The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester.
       
      These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal.
       
       
       
      PSU-Cables:
       
       
      - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)
      - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.
      - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)
      - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved
      - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector
      - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved
       

      Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)
       
      You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.
       

      The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)
       
       
       
      HDD-Caddy:
       

      The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone.
       

      Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore)
       

      ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place
       
       
       
      Finished ATX Barebones:
       
       

      Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord
       

      Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover
       

      Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management
       
       
       
      Watercooling (mATX Barebones):
       
       
      Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases.
       
      I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones:
       

      Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case.
       

      This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases
       

      To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top
       

      Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C
       

      Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop.
       

      The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment.
       
      The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+)
       

      Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out.
      You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure).
       
       
       
      Equipment:
       
       
      I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones
       

      Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables)
       
      All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover
       
      I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag.
       
       
       
      Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling:
       
       
      Here are some pictures of the internal layout:
      Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts.
       

      Finished mATX Barebone
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
       
       
       
      Types of cases & Barebones:
       
       
      What I have right now:
       
      12 fully modded Barebones:
      6 - mATX - with watercooling
      6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit)
       
      12 “Empty Ones”
      - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel)
      - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel)
       
       
       
      The End:
       
       
      Thats it for now…
      What do you think?
      Was it worth it?
      What hardware would you put in?
      Please let me know…
      ;-)
       
       
      Yours, sincerely
      wise_rice
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