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G5 Hackintosh (mostly done)

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This is going to be my work in progress page. I decided to post it here rather than on a blog, mostly because I am vein and I want people to actually see what I have done/am doing.


I acquired 2 PowerMac G5s, both dual PPC @ 2GHz, both working systems, and it also came with a 23" Cinema Display. Long story short, it was a gift for a misunderstanding a few years back. Its good to have friends.

Pic of inside tower wide angle.jpg


I have searched and searched and then searched some more for what to do with a Hackintosh. There are a lot of good posts out there, and some really creative solutions that people have come up with. So I don't think there is a single original idea in my project, I just cherry picked what I liked the best from other mods.


I decided to go with a mATX motherboard because I wanted to cut as little as possible, or not at all. I also decided to go with the best chipset (for LGA1155) that is available right now, the Z77. So mATX and Z77 really limited me to Gigabyte, Asus, ASRock and *ugh* BioStar. I compared the boards available and settled on the ASRock Extreme4-M. This gives me PCIe 3.0, 3 full length PCIe slots (so if Apple ever gets off heir collective duffs and supports SLI or CrossFire, then I could upgrade. It also give me USB 3.0, support for SATA III, native support for DDR3 1600 and of course, an IvyBridge Processor.

The MoBo Box.JPGThe MoBo 2.jpg


I decided on an i5-3570k. This is the best i5 that I could get at the time, and I really like that it comes with the Intel HD4000 graphics - which is what I'm going to use for the time being, mostly because I'm cheap.

The Beast.jpg


For RAM I choose Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 - I was distracted by the blinking lights so I must NEED them...

Blinky RAM.jpg


I bought an el-cheapotm case that came with an el-cheapotm PSU just to get Windows installed and make sure I am not retarded and can still build a PC. All of the above producs, including Windows, I bought from Newegg for around six hundred dollars. I bought a refurb Samsung Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1 Terabyte 1TB SATA / 300 7200RPM for less than seventy bucks from Computer Geeks. So for less than seven hundred dollars, I have a fully functional, near top spec machine. Now all I have to do is get it all in the case.

Gutted Case.JPGThe MoBo placed near where I want it.jpgBACK I-O Ports.jpg


I am working on an issue with motherboard sizing right now (see my other thread), but once I fix that, the JB weld comes out and I start to glue stuff down.


More to come very soon.

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Saturday, Aug. 11


I have resolved my MB sizing issues (see my other thread) and I have moved onto installing some parts.


I decided to mount the motherboard at the expansion slots rather than 'float' the motherboard in the middle for two reasons:


1) The one pro audio card I was considering using is a PCI, and only comes in PCI flavors. I already own it, its the M-Audio 2496 card. Its a sweet card and I got it years ago for a steal (less than you can buy it for new now, which is a hundred bucks). My motherboard does not have PCI slots (oversight on my part... oops) and so the only way to make this card work is to get an adapter. They make cheap PCIe to PCI adapters, but they only really work with low profile PCI cards, and my audio card is very much not low profile. There are also two companies that I found that make flexible PCIe to PCI adapters One is here. I really think this is a pretty elegant solution. They have an adapter that expands 1 PCIe to 2 PCI as well.


It also costs 50 bucks.


While talking to a friend who also has DAW capabilities, he asked if my MB has SPDIF out/in. My MB has out, but not in. For ~$20, I can get a card that has both. He suggested that I offload all of my A/D-D/A conversion to an external processor, and eliminate any noise that may be generated by my motherboard, PSU or other components. Good idea. Twenty bucks is cheaper than fifty, and its a better solution. I'll miss that card though.


2) By keeping the motherboard in that corner, I can reuse most of the internals from the G5, including the PCI divider, the CPU fans, the speaker, etc. This will keep the look as close to original as possible. If I floated the motherboard, I may not have been able to reuse some or any of those parts.


So its time to break out the JB Weld.


When I attached the CPU heatsink, it warped my MB a small amount. Not that big of a deal, but a pain when I'm trying to glue the standoffs back onto the case. What I ended up doing was a glueing few at a time, and putting some weight on it to press it down. Once those cured, I'd move onto others, but only reattaching the motherboard to one or two of the post set up previously. This allowed me to get the standoffs in the right place. It took two days to do it, but my time is free, and I'd rather do it right than right now. That also allows me to install a different motherboard down the road and not have to warp that one to the shape of this one.


MB jammed up against stupid plastic.jpgTest Fit 1.jpgTest Fit 2.jpgTest Fit 3.jpgTest Run with AGP card.jpgTest Run with AGP card 2.jpgGlue 1.jpgGlue 2.jpgGlue 3.jpg


Yes that is an ISDN modem box, with the actual ISDN modem inside that I am using as a weight. Also, for good measure, I used the guts out of the TeslaConverter as weight.


MB standoffs attached and MB screwed in place.jpgMB standoffs attached and MB screwed in place 2.jpgMB standoffs attached and MB screwed in place 3.jpgPCIe Video Card used for test fit.jpg


So now I decided to dry fit some of the other components. I'll take them back out at the point when I decide what to do about running power up there. I also bought a USB motherboard header to USB A adapter, for when I get WiFi and Bluetooth. By putting them inside the case, I'll reduce the range (don’t need it the wireless access point will sit on top of the computer), and I retain the clean look on the outside. I have an Airport extreme card, and I may tinker with that down the road, but for now, just 2 dongles in the case.


SuperDrive.jpgNew DVD Drive.JPGMB screwed in place with HDDs loaded and new DVD Drive fitted.jpg


And now, I have to decide what to do about power. My current idea is to unsolder the cables from the TeslaConver guts and then use those as adaptors to the new power supply - which I haven't bought yet. I'm going to put that ATX PSU into the TeslaConverter shell, so it needs to be a top mount fan PSU for sizing. I still haven't decided on modular or not. I have decided that ~500w will do, I want a single 12v rail, and I'm not spending more than a hundred bucks on it. Suggestions anyone?


More to come soon...

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So now I'm dealing with power.


I have purchased this PSU. It looks like "Bob's Pretty Good Power Supply Company" to me, but at least I only spent 40 bucks. Its modular and has two (2) 12v rails @ 24a = 288 watts per rail.


I am trying to reuse as many of the original cables as possible, including the SATA data and power cables. I have bought these as extensions to reach the SATA ports on the MB. I bought this so I can run the HDMI cable out the back while I decide what to do with the I/O port area.


I also bought one of these to cut and splice onto this:


Snipped off HDD power cable from org PSU.jpg


I also decided to replace the original 12v fans with standard 5v ones, and I bought them all here.


Orginal fan assemblies attached to divider.jpgDivider standoff that I shouldnt have removed.jpgRoom for the 24pin ATX connector.jpgAssmbly hovering over motherboard.jpg


With the front panel usb/firewire/audio cable that I will be getting soon from BlackCH, I should have enough to start it up.



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So all the parts are in, except the cable to turn it on (BlackCH I am sure has dozens of orders), but all the rest of the stuff I believe is here.


Antec Replacement Fans.jpgNew PSU.jpgNew PSU 2.jpg


I am replacing the fans with 5v 3 wire fans from Antec. I thought about reusing the original 12v fans, but a lot of people have said that they are loud and don't move as much air as newer fans do. Since the original fans are standard sizes (80mm, 92mm and 60mm) I ordered a bunch of replacements. I'll still use the original holders, keeping the look nearly the same, but using more modern, efficient fans - kinda like I'm doing with the system board and such.


PCI Fan with Speaker Orginal.jpgReplacement Fans 1.jpgTwo Fans.JPGSpeaker with new fan.JPG


One of the things I must do to keep the look as original as possible is reuse the PCI divider bracket. This screwed into a standoff in the front and to the motherboard the length of the machine. Obviously moving the motherboard mounts to accommodate an uATX board means that I cant reuse the motherboard mounts. Also, its quite in the way of some important things - like the ATX 24pin plug and the ram - two kinda big things. So - out comes the Dremel!


I placed it carefully, so the clear plastic side panel can still fit. One of the things I'll probably do is run this system occasionally with the aluminum side panel off - just to show off my work. I cant do that and maintain airflow without that clear acrylic side panel. As you can see, I lined it up so that everything still fits.


Assmbly hovering over motherboard.jpgGlueing PCI Divider Standoffs.jpgPCI Divider with Replacement fans.jpg


So now comes the PSU. I stated in my profile that I'm not afraid to cut, bend, scrape, and occasionally let the smoke out of a few chips to get the job done. So the first thing I did with my new PSU was void the warranty. Man that felt good. I have seen in other mods where people reuse the bottom of the PSU, but I don't like that look. So I went to the hardware store to buy some binding posts (which is Lowe's speak for standoffs). I got 3/16" high and JB welded them to the bottom of the TeslaConverter shell. Once that dries, I'll post pics of what it looks like.I also need to decide what to do with the modular plug from the PSU. Modular is cool because I can only plug in the cables I need. Modular is bad because I need to mount the modular plug assembly somewhere.


New PSU 2.jpgNew PSU Guts.jpgNew PSU Modular Plugs.jpgVoided the Warranty Already.jpgCable to power HDD befoer I cut.jpgShrink Wrap.jpgCable for HDD done.jpg



Still giving that a good think. Any suggestions people?

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Thanks for the kudos nick!


I am thinking the same thing, I'm just having a hard time with cutting yet another thing on the case. I really like the stock look, but I think this might be an area where it'll function better.


Thanks for the input!

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Which area are you looking to cut out next?


IT's beyond me how I never saw this thread since you've been updating it a lot but I normally don't float so far down the forums all the time but glad I did to find your build log. Going strong so far although you're in a bit of a decision phase on whether to take away from the stock look for a bit more functionality.

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welllll... I think I might take nick's suggestion and cut the top of the TeslaConverter shell. its either that or mounting it somewhere inside the shell, then running the cables out one of the existing holes or *ugh* cutting another hole. If I test fit this out and I end up needing to cut that hole, then I'll definitely mount the modular plug.


I did cut the plastic fan grill holder in the back - the part on the bottom that bumped up against the I/O port goodies on my motherboard and has the slots to hold the fan assembly. I am pretty sure I'm not putting those fans back in the case, even though I bought replacement ones. I can't believe I haven't taken a picture of that yet - and since I have a bad phone camera and its night, I'll add that to my list of photos to take in daylight tomorrow and I'll post.

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I am definitely going to follow this thread very closely.


I had just purchased the exact same hardware for a PC build....

I then "Came into" 2 Intel Power Mac shells and 1 complete G5 this week.

I am not 100% what my plans are at this point. I think i will mod at least 2 of these cases into Hack's. Possibly one into a file server.. Time will tell.


I Was going to pick up another mATX board that was on another forums recommended list, If you can get the ASrock up and running, I'll use the same board also. Possibly borrowing some of your build for other things also.


Do you plan to try to reuse the CPU covers and drive trays? I want to try and keep my build as stock as possible looking, even on the inside. however, I am not against cutting the back of the chassis for the I/O panel just to keep the inside less cluttered from cable extensions.

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Glad you like the mod john.


I am planning on reusing the CPU cover. The one G5 case I kept has the two G5 covers that were fitted directly onto the humongous heat-sinks. I could have kept the large singe G5 shield that is held on by that funky plastic retaining clip that was on the G5 I sold, but the kid who bought it was smart as a whip and asked if I had it. With this smaller one (2 actually) I have a little more flexibility on mounting.


With regards to the drive trays - I have the G5, not the MacPro. one of the big differences between the two is the drive mounts. My G5 only has a spot for two HDD, and its at the top of the case behind the SuperDrive. The MacPro has spaces for up to four HDDs and they line up under the shelf that the SuperDrives and PSU are on. If I could have used a MacPro case - I woulda. I prefer them for two reasons: 1) More HDDs 2) More optical drives. I am a FIRM believer in the theory that more is more.


I liked the ASRock because it gave me the most bang for my buck. I haven't even started the OS stuff yet, but this forum is the place for getting help with it. I am not going to dual boot my machine as I have some personal requirements that will not allow me to do that. However, I do plan on running ML in a Virtual Machine - which may end up be even trickier. When I get the system up and running, I'll start a new thread in one of the MountainLion topics on my efforts to virtualize the OS.

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I know what you mean about the bigger is better. I was asking about the drive bays because I was interested in how you would tackle wiring them up. The MacPro's 4 Drive sleds look to be pretty straight forward to wire up. I was planning to start with the G5 mod first because my G5 is a bit dinged up. My MacPros are brand new with the shrink-wrap still on them. Good luck with the build!

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More pictures as promised.


First of all, the rear fans. In the last picture, hopefully you can see where I cut the bottom mounting shelf/bracket/thingy. That was getting in the way of the Audio stack and the USB & PS/2 stack. It was pretty darn close to the D-SUB15 and another USB/NIC stack as well. So I cut it off all the way to the retaining slot on the left (when looking from the back/top). The fan assembly wont fit however. I'll keep that in my box of goodies, in case I ever change the internal config of my case and want to reuse it.


Rear Fan Asasembly.jpgRear Fan Cut 1.jpgRear Fan Cut 2.jpgRear Fan Cut 3.jpg


The PSU is mounted finally. To get the look I wanted, I had to spend nearly 10 bucks on hardware from Lowe's. *ugh* I retained the original Mac power plug and soldered that onto the wires from the new PSU. I removed the physical PSU power switch. I like the idea of a switch, but I dislike the idea of a cutting ANOTHER hole in my machine to accommodate it.


Open PSU.JPGThe Merged PSU Shut.jpgMerged PSU with molex cables.jpgThe Merged PSU cable hole with room.jpg


Because of the modified cable that I made to adapt the 8 Pin power plug from the HDDs and the SuperDrive, at this point I only need one extra cable coming from the PSU. I am very much loving the modular design right now. I don't have a GPU yet so the PCIe cables stay in the box. I only have one (yes one) molex plug to connect. The only non-clean thing about this power cable set up is the fact that the original black cables and that adapter I made a a little stiff, and I'm not sure I can bend them the way I want.


My Adaptor.jpg


That's it for now... just some cleaning up and other miscellany is left to do. When I get my front power/USB/Firewiere cable from BlackCH (next week it should be) then I can actually hit that power switch.


@johnm: I'm just reusing all of the original power and SATA data cables. If I wanted to get crazy, I could replace the SATA data cables but I opted instead to just use small 9" extenders.


SATA extender.jpgSATA extender in place.jpg


This is just mocked up right now. I'll have better pictures when everything is installed.

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mocked everything up, plugged in the PSU outside of the tower just to make sure no smoke came roiling out, and all was good. when I finally turned my tower right side up, the PCI divider shelf drooped. I knew I needed to attach this in the back somewhere, I just havent designed an elegant solution yet. In the mean time, I needed something non-conductive to prop up the CPU fan assembly. I looked and I looked... untill I found this:




Bonus points to ANYONE who can identify what I am using. I will be VERY impressed, both with your power of observation, and with your knowledge of the item in question.



Off to go camping this weekend. All that's left to do to power it up, is get the power/usb/firewire cable so I'll post more then. Hopefully by next weekend.

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I got my G5 in the post on Monday. Unfortunately it suffered damage in shipping. The bottom feet were a bit smashed and it suffered some case separation along the bottom of the door...

I think it still has 3 or 4 good screw posts on the bottom, they didn't all pop. I think it can be fix. it will just be a PITA. On top of this.. it is also quite a bit scuffed up..

The good news is. I scored another gutted G5 shell for $15 off craigslist. I can start with that one while deal with shipping disputes to try and get a refund for the damages.

I’ll probably start a new thread myself for my project over the weekend. I’m still trying to gather up parts for my build to get “all my ducks in a row” before I kick it off.

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Hopefully the shipment was insured. Me personally, I don't care about surface scuffs and such. Bent things and dings and gouges however I would definitely care about! By the screw posts on the bottom, do you mean the MB standoffs? Those'll have to come off anyways when you put the ATX or uATX MB in. If you mean the bottom, where the PSU is - then having those screws messed up is kinda bad as those screw thru the case into the PSU shell itself.


Good luck with the cases. Good score with the craigslist find - they're so much better than ebay in my opinion. I'll look for your project when you start it!

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machine is up and running!... sorta



stupid adaptor.jpg



SO I bought this funky 270º HDMI adapter because I am so damn stubborn that I didn't want to cut my case. Well, that adapter seems to be causing me problems with my video signal. It worked before when I had the guts in ElChepo case, and the only two things that have changed that the MB would care about is the PSU and that adapter. The system boots fine and I can RDP to it no problem, I can even boot into safe mode, but it no likey the standard desktop. I guess there is an off chance that its a driver issue, but again, the driver hasen’t changed. I'm thinking that the adapter doesn't send all the content protection {censored} that HDMI requires, and so my Sony PlayStation 3D Display craps out.


But once I get that all sorted, off to the top of the forums page (software) I go to get my Virtual Box running.


I'll put one more post in here when I get that all sorted out and then I'll put this in for the mac mod of the month contest. Thanks all who followed and made suggestions!

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So I got my Snow Leopard CD in the mail today. Gonna try to Virtual Box that.


My video is still not resolved. Some people think its a bad chip, others a driver. I am not sure but you can check out THIS and THIS thread to see what I'm dealing with. This is a problem with the Intel HD4000 video, specifically it blanking out when I install their driver.


When I solve that, then my build will be complete.

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Ouch.. I have not seen this issue yet. I have 3 boards with the HD4000 and no issues yet. All 3 have run Win7, Win8 and Mountain Lion.

All 3 are also ASrock.

1x z77 PRO4 M w/ I5 3570k,

1x z77E -ITX w/ I7 3770k

1x H77M-ITX w/ I5 3570k.


(I thought I had an Extreme, but I have the PRO. That's one reason I was pretty excited about your build.. still should be usable)

GL with this issue. I cant wait to see the finished build.

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OK - the physical mod work is very close to done.


With regards to the video, I worked with the chief Product Support Engineer at Intel for their desktop Processor line, including them developing a test driver specifically for my (and a few others) issue, and exchanging the processor out for a new one. They have my old one at their labs and tested it - with no problems. Yet with my system, it was causing problems. We finally narrowed it down to a right angle adapter that I mentioned above not passing all the HDCP info, and the HD4000 driver being dependent upon a return verification of that HDCP compliant components. My nice new Sony PlayStation 3D display also does not play well with non-HDCP signals. Once the offending adapter was removed, all worked according to spec. The problem for Intel is that unless the signal is carrying HDCP source material, the driver shouldn't require it - thus the problem that Intel is working on now. Also, my problem is that in order to use the on board graphics, I MUST use that right angle adapter as I haven't (and don't really want to) cut the case in the back.


So I got THIS guy to put in there instead:


ATI 6770.jpgATI 6770.JPG


Got a good deal on it (70 bucks) and it blows away the performance of the HD4000. Since I'll be running OS X in a Virtual Machine, I didn't need to worry about down flashing the GPU BIOS or EFI strings or kexts or only support in Mountain Lion and such. And it looks pretty cool in my rig.


So here is a few HQ pictures of my system:


IMG_0032.JPGon black 1.JPGon black 2.JPG


Time for me to move up to the top of the forums now. Talked with one of the moderators about doing a WIP page for my software attempts to get OS X running in VirtualBox and he thought it was ok - So look for me up THERE. I have gotten 10.6.8 working in Oracle VirtualBox and I have 10.8.2 working in VMWare Player.


Thanks all for following my progress - its been fun and challenging and I learned a lot along the way.

Thanks to all those who followed this thread and to those who contributed ideas and suggestions!

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a video of my hackintosh in action with the blinky ram playing a quicktime file in the VM.



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Hello Mr.D,


Excellent & useful posts, many thanks!


With regard to squeezing an ATX PSU into the G5 enclosure, do you have any details on hooking up the existing G5 PSU enclosure fans to their new PSU? (where to connect up the leads to....)


Thanks again,



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Omg, i didn't saw your work till now, it's impressive and almost identical to the kind of look i wanted to accomplish with the "Talulah" project. Close to stock as possible. Very nice work and lighting effects with the RAM and btw, i hope the PSU was totally discharged after leaving it for applying pressure lol!


For the PCI divider i kept the 3 original standoffs close to the front of the case, and put some rubber spacers between standoff and bolt. Then the back is laying pretty much on top of the rear fan mounting. Though that, i didn't balance it very well, needs to be better measured because it's falling 1-2 mm, when i continue with it, i'll let you know.




Btw, it's finished or are you improving anything else?



Edited by SirKeldon

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thank you!


... and with regards to the connection of the old TeslaConverter fans to the new PSU, I would assume that most PSUs (ones that cost over 30 bucks that is - and mine only cost 40) have a 2 pin connector for the fan that came with that PSU. I just cut those wires off at the fan and joined the wires from the original fans to those wires. A good place to see this would be here, or here. The first link is to the [Tutorial] on PSU conversions, and the second is a thread that someone had asked me a similar question.


Replacing those fans are the next thing on my list to do for this build - they are too loud. I could under-volt then, or I could just buy 2 new fans for 6 bucks that are quieter, move more air and more energy efficient. I am also lazy and the existing set-up works right now so I'm in no hurry.


Hope that helps!

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It should be possible to solder the two fans wires to one red and one black from the PSU inside the case like WTTech has done here :



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      This raised the quality of all cases.

      The metalwork (Filing, sanding, equalizing, gluing and painting) took a very long time. I don’t even know how many hours it took per case because I always did one individual operation to all cases (e.g. filing or cutting) and then started the next task. It probably took a couple of days per G5.
      Then I broke my shoulder in May 2017 (doing something stupid on an Austrian glacier). That made it harder to do the sanding for a couple of weeks.
      But even though it was painful, I couldn’t stop...

      The different case-types:
      The painting turned out very well.
      I chose the best 14 cases after painting and decided to finish modding them, completely.
      I will call these “Barebones” in the following.
      In the pyramid-pictures they are always on top, because they were finished last and taken to the workshop more often.
      The 14 best cases got equipped with a 600W PSU, front-panel, water-cooling (for the mATX Barebones), apple power-cables, etc…
      They are now proper Barebones. No more hard work needed to finish the build.
      Just missing a motherboard (and maybe hard drives) - and done.

      12 other cases did not end up perfectly painted, but still good. Some orange peel here and there. Only 4 of them have stronger orange peel. I will call these 12 cases “Empty Ones” in the following.

      An “empty case”
      What to do with the “Empty Ones”?
      They are also clean and modded. Ready for ATX or mATX boards, empty PSU-Enclosure…
      One could make furniture or art out of them…
      One could finish the mod with a new front panel.
      Or one could paint them again in a different colour…
      I don’t know…
      Let’s start from the beginning:
      Delivery: first we sorted the cases from “good condition” to “scratched and scuffed”
      This sorting turned out to be useless, later as I ended up sanding, filling and painting all of them. I chose the best ones in the end.

      We disassembled everything and sorted the parts – plastics, aluminium, batteries, electronics, etc… then gave everything to recycling. I am an environmental engineer, so this was important to me. I gave away all parts that could possibly be reused - Like fans, RAM and graphics cards.
      There are no pictures of the disassembly, because it has been done by many people already and we were also too busy (it took a couple of days).
      We ended up making our own tools and screwdrivers for removing the processors and mainboards, because many screws are hard to reach.
      All parts that I wanted to keep were cleaned and kept separately. E.g. the fan grilles on the back, the rubber screws for the HDD Caddy or the DVD-drive stand-offs
      Planning & Conversion
      Then I made a plan for the easiest ATX conversion with the least cutting.
      Best thing to do: Cut an opening to the back - big enough for ATX boards I/O and reuse the original PCIe slots for graphics cards. This turned out to be just perfect. I tested different boards. E.g.: ASUS TUF X99 (ATX) and ASrock AB350M (mATX)

      Night shift – working with the Dremel

      First cut for the ATX Mainboard I/O.
      All the Internals are removed. Also, the fan grille with its many mini-screws. So that the plastic is not melting.

      Cut-out (before filing and sanding). Sharp edges. Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges.
      Then the filing and sanding removed all sharp edges.

      I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy. This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils.

      I made two different stencils. One for ATX Boards and one for mATX Boards:

      Putting the standoff through the stencil and securing it with a screw

      Cleaning the surface before gluing.

      Both stencils with standoffs and fresh glue – right before placing it in the cases

      ATX stencil in the case – gluing down the standoffs.

      mATX stencil while gluing. It had to sit like this over night to make sure the glue is hard.
      Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. All stand-offs / threads are in the right position for standart mainboards, now.

      Now that all the disassembly, cutting and gluing was done it was time for some fresh paint.
      The painting:
      Before painting it was necessary to fill dents, file edges (there were chips, especially on the feet) and sand EVERYTHING to smoothen the surface and remove unwanted oils.
      Fill, file, sand, repeat…
      I used 2K Aluminium epoxy to fill dents


      The Epoxy is like a cold weld. Hard and sturdy.

      Dents before filling

      Dents after filling - before sanding

      More filling

      Filled and sanded case.

      At first I did not want to paint them myself.
      So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint (had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade) and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop (arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks).
      They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts.

      The results were good, but It turned out that these cases are really hard to paint…
      I was not 100% happy with the result. They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach.
      So, I changed my mind and decided to paint all the cases, myself (again...)
      What a fool I was.
      This took a week.
      First of all, I needed a cleanroom.
      So, I converted a shed in my parents’ garden.

      Shed / Cleanroom – Winter-time

      Thanks to my brothers’ help, the setup turned out really clean and airtight. Crucial for keeping it warm.

      To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. My father even set up a big chimney, so that the smoke was led further away from the shed (as smoke=small particles that would  leave  marks on the fresh paint).

      I had a compressor on hand (with 30m hose) and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before.

      Paint-Shed from the inside

      Hanging case before spray-painting

      Usually two or three cases were sprayed at a time.
      All cases were sprayed at least two times with thin coats.

      After spray-painting it was time for drying

      The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in.
      The fully varnished cases after drying. This is the result:





      The cases with the white bar on the back have the original Apple 2x2 Wifi / Bluetooth antennas in them (with two plugs) I installed a second 2x2 Antenna. Now they are 4x4.
      The (IPEX? MHF?) connectors are bigger than those I have seen before. They don’t fit the tiny connectors on laptop-wifi-cards.
      Maybe someone used the Apple Antennas with a PCIe Wifi-card before and can give me a tip or even post a link?



      The “Empty Ones”:
      This is what the 12 empty cases look like, that have some orange-peel skin:

      Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet.

      An “empty-one” - ready for ATX boards.

      Empty PSU-Enclosure is installed. Fan-bracket is in place. Sometimes still with apple fans.

      A finished ”empty” mATX case

      You can see some orange-peel skin or varnish-runs on the “Empty Ones”
      I modded the 12 best-painted cases to create fully-modded Barebones:
      Time for re-assembly:

      The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket. They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case.

      I put the PCIe slot brackets back in (they were also painted, of course) using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases. In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand.

      The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. If you have a Mainboard with very high VRM heatsinks or high I/O (e.g. with 6 stacked USB-Ports) you can either remove the fan bracket completely (I did that for my brothers build and just clamped some BeQuiet! Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in) or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip (I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable).

      The bracket holds two 92mm x 25mm Fans
      My favourite: Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - 92mm
      They look like the original ones and are very quiet. (I used them in two projects)

      Cheaper Arctic PWM Fans for testing

      The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable.

      Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing

      To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise.

      The case without any front-panel board or power-button.
      Half of the G5s I bought were “late 2005” models. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases.
      Only models before “late 2005” have a front panel connector-socket. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. That’s a match.

      Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again.
      Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:

      Installation of the front-panel board.

      The housing of the front-panel board has also been painted.

      The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work.
      I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify.
      Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. I recommend to set the front-panel type to “AC’97” in the BIOS / UEFI instead of the default “HD Audio”. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds.  For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings.

      Plugging in the mod-cable to the front-panel connector.

      Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture – so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability.
      DVD / Blu-Ray drive:

      Eject the disc tray with a  paper clip.

      Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture

      Screw in the stand-off screws (I saved those)

      Standoffs installed

      Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. Done.
      PSU (Power Supply Unit):
      I thought a long time about the perfect PSU.
      I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability.

      The original Apple power-plug with Apple power-cable.
      How do you get a new PSU into the original Apple PSU?
      I did not want to crack open a standart ATX PSU and jerry-rig its sensible (and dangerous) electronics into the original PSU-housing.
      So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound.
      Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.
      Also, I wanted 600 Watts of output power to drive any overclocked CPU with a powerful graphics card like the GTX 1080Ti.

      Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.

      Shrink-tube protects the soldered joints.
      The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension.
      The input-filter is still connected to the socket.

      The Apple power-cord.
      I found the perfect PSU.
      A 600W PSU by Supermicro.
      Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. So, I can trust those PSUs to constantly deliver real 600Watts. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive.
      Many cheap PSUs just claim to be 600W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time (or they degrade). This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU.
      The 600W PSU comes with a 80+ Platinum rating.
      That is one of the highest Energy efficiency ratings available.
      Higher than 80+ Gold, Silver or Bronze (which is kind of the standard right now)
      80+ Platinum means 92-94% of the Input-power is delivered as output. Only 6-8% is transformed into heat. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.

      All PSUs before they were put in

      It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing.

      The 600W PSU plugged into the extension cord.

      Securing the PSU in place

      The 2005 Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug (C19) suitable for higher power delivery of over 1000 Watts.
      Almost half of the cases have this kind of plug.
      They also have a bigger input filter.

      Soldering the extension on.

      Finished housing with server power jack (C19) on the outside and standart plug (C13) on the inside

      PSU inside the original Apple-Housing

      All the cables come out near the back of the case.

      I created bigger openings for the cables to feed through.

      All PSUs are prepared

      The PSUs and their connectors have been tested with a PSU-tester.
      These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors (and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual), So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal.
      - PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)
      - CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.
      - Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)
      - SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved
      - 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector
      - 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved

      Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)
      You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.

      The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)

      The original Apple 2-Bay HDD-caddy was glued into its new place to be out of the way. Only necessary in the ATX-Cases to fit the bigger ATX Boards in. Using high-temperature silicone.

      Molex Power provided by adapter (if needed for 3,5” drives, most new 5400 rpm HDDs don’t even need Molex anymore)

      ATX Case with a bit of cable management and the HDD-caddy in place
      Finished ATX Barebones:

      Finished ATX case with all equipment and the server power-cord

      Finished ATX case with the Acrylic cover

      Different finished ATX Case with cover and cable management
      Watercooling (mATX Barebones):
      Now that the “Empty Ones” and the ATX Barebones were finished It was time to mod the mATX Cases.
      I added watercooling to the mATX-Barebones:

      Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case.

      This is the 240mm radiator for the watercooling of all mATX cases

      To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top

      Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. (This Silicone is usually used to attach the IHS to a CPU or to seal an exhaust pipe) – good for temperatures up to 329°C

      Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop.

      The 240mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment.
      The mounting kits for this Cooler Master AiO support all modern processors and sockets (775, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, AM4, FM1, FM2, FM2+)

      Two 120mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop. They blow out.
      You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in (positive pressure).
      I saved the important bits and bought cables for all Barebones

      Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable (half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables)
      All fully modded Barebones have the acrylic cover
      I kept HDD rubber-head screws, DVD-drive standoffs, Pump Mounting Kits in a little bag.
      Finished mATX Barebones with watercooling:
      Here are some pictures of the internal layout:
      Pictures of the outside can be seen in previous posts.

      Finished mATX Barebone

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment

      Finished mATX Barebone with all equipment
      Types of cases & Barebones:
      What I have right now:
      12 fully modded Barebones:
      6 - mATX - with watercooling
      6 - ATX - (eATX boards should also fit)
      12 “Empty Ones”
      - 8 prepared for ATX (3 of which have heavier orange-peel)
      - 3 prepared for mATX (1 of which has heavier orange-peel)
      The End:
      Thats it for now…
      What do you think?
      Was it worth it?
      What hardware would you put in?
      Please let me know…
      Yours, sincerely