Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Allan

      Forum Rules   04/13/2018

      Hello folks! As some things are being fixed, we'll keep you updated. Per hour the Forum Rules don't have a dedicated "Tab", so here is the place that we have our Rules back. New Users Lounge > [READ] - InsanelyMac Forum Rules - The InsanelyMac Staff Team. 

28 posts in this topic

Recommended Posts

Hi! I'm planning on building a Hackintosh, and it is my first time building a computer from scratch. I have taken apart a computer and put it back together successfully quite a few times. Although I have no experience with Hackintoshes, I have been doing by reading.

 

Anyways, I plan on building my Hackintosh into a PowerMac G5 chassis. I have little (very, very little) experience with rotaries and soldering, and no experience with hardware modding. These are the parts I plan on using:

 

Intel DZ77GA-70K Motherboard

EVGA GeForce GTX 660 SC 3GB (Yes)

Intel Core i7-3770K Processor (Yes)

Intel 330 Series SSD - 240GB

LG BH12LS35 Lightscribe Blu-Ray Writer

Corsair 500W Modular PSU

Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM (Yes)

Aluminum Apple Cinema Display 20" (Yes)

Apple Bluetooth Module

Apple WiFi-N Module (Yes)

 

Feel free to make any suggestions as to the parts I'm using. What I'm mainly concerned about is the front and back I/O panel. Can somebody write a step-by-step guide as to how to make the case fully ATX-ready? Is there someone who could also make a cover for the bottom where it has to be cut, and make the cover look Apple-like?

 

Thank you very much.

Edited by TechiEmmanuel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was thinking about doing that with my dead Mac Pro 1,1. It would be a computer with an Apple label on it so I guess it would be legit for running Mac OS X on even with a generic PC mono. Right now I have a Mac Pro 3,1 I bought used when the 1,1 died and I have it pretty decked out, by slots are full, in fact sometimes I have to swap cards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you look in the Mods and Overclocking Forum, you'll see a whole lot of peoples efforts in this area - mine included. This thread is more for people with original hardware that are keeping it original, or at least apple approved upgrades.

 

Good luck with your mod!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moved to the Mods forum. Post any modding threads here from now on. ;)

 

The difficulty of the mod really depends on whether or not you're concerned about the looks of the back. If you're going for a "vanilla" look, many dudes will just cut a little bit out of the back just for the I/O panel. But, Mountain Mods makes motherboard trays and backplates that work great in the Mac Pro; they require a bit more cutting, but really are easier to do; it just won't look "perfect". :)

 

A suggestion for you: if you are going to use the Mac Pro case, get a mATX motherboard. A standard ATX board will fit, but it would be much more difficult as you would have to cut out two of the HDD bays to make it fit. IMO if you want to use a full size ATX board, do a G5 mod, as the PowerMac G5 case can easily fit a ATX board without interfering with the case operation.

 

For the front panel: if you look there is a thread for actually ordering G5 front panel connectors for a standard mobo, or you can easily make one yourself. If you do a Mac Pro front panel, you have to do something along the lines of splicing a USB header and a SATA cable together. But if you google or look around here on the forums, I think you will find the info you need. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The mod approach I took was quite minimalist. I wanted to retain as much of the original look as possible. I haven't cut anything on the back. I had to cut the PCI divider bracket shelf thingy only because I wanted to keep it in the system, but the location didn't line up with the µATX board that I, or anyone who goes my route, installed. I lined up my board with the PCI slots that were existing, giving a space for me to connect stuff to the I/O port area in the back without having to cut.

 

Pokey is right - the MountainMods MB tray is a good solution if you're going that way - also you can order Lan-Li replacement parts that work as well. Search here or with Google and you'll find the right parts - I remember something about the 80mm not the 120mm fan option being the best, but you better search yourself.

 

I bought the cable for the G5 from BlackCH - he includes a well illustrated .pdf with your purchase on how to hook it up. Its worth the ~$30 for the cable in my opinion. I say around $30 because he lives in Spain, and it depends on the $ to € exchange.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies! I settled on a G5, and I will be buying the Front Panel cables from one of the board members. A question - does anyone know if the Bluetooth 4.0 module in the Retina MacBook Pro is Mini PCI-E? I know that IOGEAR makes a USB adapter, but I prefer an original Apple part.

 

Thanks! =D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

iOSAddiction,

 

The Bluetooth module is built into their AirPort Extreme cards (at least it was for the "old" Unibody models). So if you will be using the AirPort Extreme card, you will probably be getting the Bluetooth module as well. But, in the rare scenario that it is not built into the AirPort Extreme card, I can tell you that the Bluetooth module would be a proprietary interface.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@JamesLittler, it's fine. I'll take the DIY route. Thanks anyway.

 

Thanks for the heads-up, @PookyMacMan. =D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies! I settled on a G5, and I will be buying the Front Panel cables from one of the board members. A question - does anyone know if the Bluetooth 4.0 module in the Retina MacBook Pro is Mini PCI-E? I know that IOGEAR makes a USB adapter, but I prefer an original Apple part.

 

Thanks! =D

Don't know about new retina versions, but there is no reason to get that model as it would probably cost an arm and a leg and not readily available, plus the whole "might not work" thing. The older apple airport PCI-e modules work just as well with a PCI-e to mini PCIe adapter card with antennae. The adapter is like $10 and airport card can be found for under $20. Bluetooth can also be older unit, it runs on USB interface but is a proprietary connector, so some modding is needed and possibly soldering depending on which one you get, but either way you can plug it into USB mobo header using same type of cable that your front panel USB's connect to mobo with and you should have an extra unused header on the mobo to use. Also can be had for under $20, I also got separate bluetooth antennae from an imac or something like that from China for $5 delivered. Apple Bluetooth modules run at 3.3v and not 5v like other USB, so a voltage regulator is also needed, it can be bought prebuilt, I made my own though. Part #'s of modules I used are in my sig along with link to pictures, you can only see the wifi antennae as the rest is hidden away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't seem to find any 5v to 3.3v converters, such as the one in @Swhay's guide.. Do you know a site that would sell them?

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

one pin get the 5v+ from the usb, other pin goes to the 3.3v+ input on bluetooth module and 3rd pin goes to a ground. Of the 4 wires that go to bluetooth module from mobo usb, only the voltage needs to go through it, the other 3 wires(data,data,ground) can go straight from USB header to bluetooth module. You could probably have the voltage regulator and the bluetooth module share the same usb header ground wire though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My PowerMac G5 is coming in in a few days. Yay! :)

 

My mobo doesn't have TOSLINK in. Do you know any USB solutions (maybe USB to audio in, and mini-TOSLINK to TOSLINK)? As for the USB , can I just strip a USB extension cable and solder it to the bottom of the logic board? I really don't want to cut out the I/O panel at the back.

 

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didnt cut mine either, and I like the look. Of course, I have nothing functional back there and that is really killing me right now only having the front USB single port as my entire USB connectivity options. By solder it to the bottom of the logic board, do you mean this:

SvdGsl.jpg

 

If you do, check out this thread. or this thread.

 

My motherboard doesnt have toslink in either - only out. I couldnt find any uATX that had the optical in. I have been told there are PCIe cards that just have optical in/out for 20 bucks or so. I have searched high and wide and cant find anything other than this for that price. I am doing DAW work with my machine, and I had a really nice M-Audio 24/96 card - but its PCI only and my MB has no PCI slots. A friend suggested that I do all my DAC outside of the case, and he may be onto something as I have seen numerous posts on audiophile sites that people have had issues with noise created by internal components of their computer - especially if their card is near their video adapter.

 

You can also go the USB route that you mentioned, but the problem with that is the DAC is done on "Bob's pretty good DAC chip", rather than a good TI chip. That's why they're so cheap.

 

If you are looking to hook your PlayStation up to this - no problem, spend as little as possible. If you are looking to do any kind of audio work, I suggest the SYBA card I linked to above. Want this to be fully compatible with Mac OS X? Check this out, this out and if cost isn't an issue, check this bad boy out! Got mad coding skilz? Write your own driver here!

 

Hope this helps some. I'm doing all my DAW work currently in Windows7 so driver issues arent... um... an issue for me. But I may want to later try using OS X. It'd sure help me out if you found a good card and did the leg work on getting it to work... hint hint, wink wink, nudge nudge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If by "Logic board" your referring to the separate rear IO panel board (what ever it may officially be called idk) then YES. That's pretty much what I had in mind for every connector. As I mentioned, you may need to sever the connection from the port to all the other stuff on the IO board, but maybe not since your not plugging that existing harness in to power keeping it passive. Since you don't have TosLink, do you have coax digital out on your board? Id so you could easily desolder the Toslink input (since almost no board has Toslink in) and glue or solder a RCA input there and use it for digital coax. Cut, strip and solder a extension to it as mentioned for USB, it's a 2 wire connection, positive is the cable's core wire and the shielding is the negative.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

actually epp - I was referring to iOSAddiction's question, and I think he was referring to the original logic board and the cut like I posted. If however, he was referring to a 'new' logic board, you and I got that covered with both our posts!

 

Personally, I'd love to have a 'new' PCB to run back there like described in one of the posts I listed - that would be awesome and really complete the look of my case. Some people just cut away the old logic board from the G5, like in the picture and solder onto it. I could do that, but I really don't have the room - I need something that is about an inch wide - maybe less, or it'll hit my uATX board.

 

There are thousands of debates out there regarding coax vs toslink S/PDIF. Most say the coax (RCA cable) has a tendency to pick up jitters over longer distances (longer like more than 3 feet). However, it all depends on what your level of audio quality you want to obtain is, your resources, and your laziness. Me, I'm lazy - except when it comes to sound - which is why I do all my DAC outside of the box to eliminate any digital jitters that may be picked up from RF interference on unshielded components in the case. I also use reference parts for doing the DAC.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We were talking about the same part I just don't know the official name (I think we are, the apple part with the plugs on it :) ), I wouldn't solder anything to my actual motherboard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

actually - that IS what I am talking about - just not your ATX/uATX Intel/AMD board, I mean the original G5 logic board - cutting out the part in the back where the ports were. If you look closely, that is what was done in that picture. If you have the original G5 main board/logic board/mother board and don't care about it, that is what some people have done.. I sold mine so I no longer have it - otherwise I mighta considered this...

 

sorry for the confusion on my end!

 

ohhh - and it looks like the guy that I claimed was dead has reanimated to provide everyone with parts lists/sources and PCB drawings. Check out the first post in the thread!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't have access to tools to cut the logic board off CLEAN, save yourself the headache and don't attempt this. There are many layers of conductive traces inside the board and it will cross if not done correctly. I know this because that's my photo ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good point - one that was made in one of the posts here. Probably the one I took that picture from!

 

Glad to see you're not dead as previously reported... by... well, me.

 

I may attempt what you started in your post about making the PCB. My dad worked for IBM for 25 years as a EE/tester and I picked up a few things. The only thing I lack is time. But I definately want to do it. Check out this thread for what I did with my G5.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahhhh, picture of it already cut totally threw me off, assumed it was the OP's own pic. Know what happens when you "assume"?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, sounds like a lot of work. I'll skip the vlog when it comes to soldering. I have a Late 2005 G5, so I can't use any of those custom back I/O panels. I haven't got much soldering skills, only the basics. :(

 

Thanks for the links, though. I changed my parts list. Look at the first post.

 

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Posts

    • Up for https://sourceforge.net/p/cloverefiboot/wiki,
    • Has anyone had success/failure with using UPnP working with this Intel Network? I have a onboard Intel I219V2, that is working quite well, except I can't make UPnP work.  It works fine for other devices on my network, and my previous mac Mini.   In fact, I've not been able to get forwarded ports working even if I do them manually.   Any help or pointers towards where to look would be greatly appreciated.     (High Sierra, i7-8700K, ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-G)
    • Hi,  the resoldering complete socket would kill the board totally in couple month (as the guys from super-duper repair shop told me). It's all because of gygabite layered silicon grade. The layers are so thin, that they give 90% chance, that board would work correctly only a couple month until it would die. Even with IR equipment they have, gygabite silicon starting to get micro-bubbly 10-20 C before target desoldering temperature. So they not recommending to do it with this particular z97 lineup.   About pins - they are corrected with a microscope and skilled technician. As they broke right near the start, I won't be able to do it with looking glass I have). He did it quite good, visible that they were repaired, but esthetically looking super good.    As for build and Oz in it.  Current configuration is: Xeon e3 1245v3 CPU Z97hd3 Mobo Msi gtx 1050ti gaming X GF 1) Before pins problem, after I flash anything infused with Oz - it won't work with the graphics card installed. If I pull it out, flash, get bios setting right, boot and reset NVRAM (or clear CMOS, bios setting, NVRAM) than install graphics card - it freezes every boot.   2) If I press the CPU cooler a little bid, just give it a solid push - it kinda boots without a freeze, but not correctly. Bios go flickery.  3) After I pushed CPU couple times, I started to get random BSODS on windows, so I tested RAM. One dim would give me errors. I don't know, is this went after pushed a bid CPU cooler, or it was like that, but using totally different ram would give same freezes with OZ.  4) Tomorrow I would go again to this repair shop, they would try to perform another round of magic tricks. As this mobo work correctly (fully) with windows 10 - they not recommending it for full socket resolder. damaged pins were reserved. Maybe OZ uses them after all, but they were repaired. It's all looking magic, but there is no magic. If swapping not XEON CPU won't help it (but I saw builds with OZ and XEON), then I would search for another board or platform.       
    • You can try this one here 2.9.0 let me know if its better for you ?   VoodooHDA.kext.zip
    •   Boot option name retrieval 1) Locate the booter image as explained blow. 2) Locate ".contentDetails" in the parent folder 2.1) if unsuccessful, locate ".disk_label.contentDetails" in the parent folder 2.2) if unsuccessful, retrieve the volume's name   HFS Boot 1) Retrieve blessed file via https://github.com/CupertinoNet/EfiPkg/blob/development/Include/Guid/AppleBless.h#L41 1.1) if unsuccessful, retrieve blessed folder via https://github.com/CupertinoNet/EfiPkg/blob/development/Include/Guid/AppleBless.h#L45, append "\\boot.efi". NOTE: This is broken in the latest binary I checked. 1.2) if unsuccessful, use the following hard-coded paths: "\System\Library\CoreServices\boot.efi", "\EFI\APPLE\{ARCH}\BOOT.EFI", <StandardEfiPath>, "\\boot.efi" in this order 2) FV2 Recovery does not follow the usual practice because it is not shown by BootPicker anyway. Determine it via https://github.com/CupertinoNet/EfiPkg/blob/development/Include/Guid/AppleBless.h#L49, verify it does not match 1).   APFS Boot 1) Determine the APFS Volume Info (and hencefor detect whether it is APFS in the first place) via https://github.com/CupertinoNet/EfiPkg/blob/development/Include/Guid/AppleApfsInfo.h#L54 1.1) Determine the APFS Container Info via https://github.com/CupertinoNet/EfiPkg/blob/development/Include/Guid/AppleApfsInfo.h#L36 1.2) Verify the Volume Role via https://github.com/CupertinoNet/EfiPkg/blob/development/Include/Guid/AppleApfsInfo.h#L51 1.3) Retrieve blessed file analoguous to HFS 1). NOTE: This step and 1.3.1) are broken in the binary I checked, hencefor it does not happen, but is probably supposed to. 1.3.1) if unsuccessful, retrieve blessed folder and append the booter name the same way as in HFS 1.2) 1.4) (if unsuccessful,) locate all Volumes that are part of the same container, check whether the current Preboot partition has folders named by the just located Volumes' GUIDs and append the hard-coded paths from HFS 1.2) if existant 2) Recovery detection works the same way as 1.4), just for a Recovery instead of a Preboot volume


×