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mrmoebius

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About mrmoebius

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    InsanelyMac Protégé
  1. It's just the same ol' aTV in a smaller form factor. What are the processor specs? Apple isn't talking except to say it's their A4 chip, no mention of clock speed. As you know if it's any kind of benefit, they would tout it, so it must be low. If it had the power to play 1080p from multiple file formats it might be worth buying, even if it was just to hack it and put XBMC on it. I gave up my aTV 1.0 because it sucked for playing most HD files that aren't re compressed for it's ATV slim profile. The only value the old version had was in cracking it to XBMC, but otherwise it was exactly what people say - a front end for the iTunes store that you have to pay for; they SHOULD give it away, or even sell them at cost. It would be a great way to grow their market share. That said, I got a WDTV Live and it plays all my stuff over the network with no hassles. The interface is a bit light, but it plays youtube as well and it allows me to plug in 2 external USB devices and it plays just about every file format you can think of... Oh, and it does have hacks for it too...
  2. Apple iTV rumors heat up

    The next generation device will obviously have to compete with "actual" cable TV. It's an outmoded delivery system whose only value is in the existing infrastructure. Everyone is wishing to have a replacement, even the cable companies themselves, but the question is who will bring the most compelling device to the table... let's not forget Google's plans for the Google TV coming up as well!
  3. I've been searching forums and all I can find are people trying to BOOT from software RAID. All I want to do is be able to MOUNT it (USB) without crashing my machine. When I turn on my other external USB drive with a regular volume on it, it has no problem, but turning on the one with a software RAID casuses a panic. If the drive is on during boot up, it doesn't even get to the desktop. I don't even know where to begin to look, except that I've heard something about the UUID or AHCI possibly being an issue... Anyone know of a fix or kext that will prevent mounting of my software raid from crashing Snow Leopard? By the way, I'm using Snow Pegasus 10.6.2, it's the first and only distro I've found that worked with my P5KPL-CM mobo and other than this one issue, it seems to work flawlessly. MrMoebius
  4. Snow Leopard on P5KPL-CM - Please HELP!

    Sorry about the delay responding. I wasn't able to get it to work with the method you described, or any revisions of Empire EFI that have come out since my original post (up to 1.085R2) However, I did find a distro called Snow Pegasus that works more or less fine. I select default options, Azalia Audio and NVEnabler and it's all it needs to go. I still have to iron out some glitches with it though, because it crashes when I use my software RAID (external) drive, and sometimes it just panics for no reason when it otherwise looks like it's running fine. I'm hoping it will be just a matter of finding the right combination of kexts and/or fixes. Fingers are crossed that it doesn't become more complicated between 32 and 64 bit versions!! Moeb
  5. ASK For It !

    I don't know if it's what you're looking for, but couldn't you just write a launch daemon that would run every so many seconds and verify that your connection is active and restart it if it isn't? I would be as simple as making a .plist file that points to your script with a time interval specified etc. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Launchd I made a similar fix for bluetooth activation here, that you can use as an example: http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=200341 MrMoebius I've got some similar ideas of my own I'd like to try.. how do you add items to the install options or install menu? MrMoebius
  6. I've seen several customized installers made for various distros of OSX and the custom install options are always on the same screen. My guess is that the options are somehow placed into a modified .plist file or something of the like, which links to a script or dependencies file. I'd like to insert a few pieces of my own code into a disc and am wondering if someone might be able to tell me where these files are located! TIA
  7. Snow Leopard on P5KPL-CM - Please HELP!

    Wow that sounds like a mouthful, but I will give it a try and let you know how it goes! Hopefully I can find a way to simplify the process a bit, since I have a few friends with the same board. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! MrMoebius
  8. I have an ASUS P5KPL-CM and have installed Leopard 10.5 easily with numerous boot discs, more recently Kalyway and iAtkos v7. I can install and run Vanilla kernel no problems and don't have to do anything more than the usual sound and video injection etc. Strangely enough I can't get Snow Leopard to install at all. I've tried 3 versions of Empire EFI and I can't even boot with it, getting a memory allocation error (0xdeadbeef)... I even tried Empire EFI legacy versions with the same bad luck. I've tried the "SnowOSX_Universal_10.6(432)GM-v3.5" and the "Snow Leopard 10.6.1-10.6.2 SSE2 SSE3 Intel AMD by Hazard" and they will boot and install but the machine won't start afterwards, just hanging on the boot cursor. Please if anyone has a P5KPL-CM and successfully installed it, please advise on BIOS settings, what installer you used, and what options you selected. I'm getting really frustrated with this; it's hard to believe that a motherboard that works so cleanly with 10.5.8 should be so hard to get to boot with 10.6! Thanks in advance everyone!! MrMoebius
  9. Bluetooth disappearing!

    I have my osx86 box running 10.5.8 nicely on an ASUS P5KPL-CM and have very few complaints. Recently when Apple released the Magic Mouse, I wanted to get one so I figured it was time to put a bluetooth dongle on my USB port and buy one. I got the Belkin USB adaptor because it's actually Apple Logo ready and recognizes mac out of the box. I took it home and hooked it up, tested it on my iPod and forgot about it, figuring everything was just fine. When I got my new Mighty mouse (delivered to me at work) I happily used it the rest of the day at work on my 24" iMac and got very comfortable with it fairly quickly. I figured doing the same at home would be as much of a snap. Unfortunately this wasn't the case, sort of... At first it wasn't recognizing the mouse, and was saying "no bluetooth device connected" This meant it wasn't seeing the Belkin adaptor... strange... I unpaired my iPod and all devices until the list was empty, and then had the option to add a new bluetooth device, so I proceeded to add the magic mouse. During the "search for new bluetooth devices" dialog, I had the option to turn Bluetooth on, which was the sticky part. In searching for the device, you can turn your bluetooth on, but without searching, the On/Off checkbox was unavailable! I figured it wasn't a big deal, since it was now on and working and recognizing the Magic Mouse fine. I proceeded to download the Magic Mouse update and reboot my computer. When I rebooted, no mouse, no bluetooth. I had to plug in my USB mouse just to get to system prefs and see what was up. I was able to re-pair the Magic Mouse by removing it and re-adding it like before, but this is really annoying to do every time you boot, and if you have several devices or need another mouse present to do it, it's a ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS. So I did a little looking around and found a very seamless solution that works perfectly well, allows you to boot up and have your Bluetooth mouse detect perfectly fine with no need to to anything except wiggle the mouse to confirm that it's been detected!! Here's the fix: First, download blueutil by Frederik Seiffert (hopefully attached to this message!). It's a free OSX command line utility for your bluetooth. You will have to install it with the included installer, or you can do it from terminal copying the blueutil command into /usr/local/bin You can test that it installed properly by typing in some of the following commands: blueutil status blueutil off blueutil on The status command will tell you if you bluetooth is on or off, where on and off actually turns your bluetooth on and off! 2. Next, install the following .plist launch daemon. Open terminal and type switch to super user (type in your password when asked) and create the property list (.plist): sudo -s touch /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.osx86.bluetooth.plist Now open your favorite editor (i.e. vi or nano) and create the file by inserting the following code into it (copy and paste is ok): nano /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.osx86.bluetooth.plist <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple Computer//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd"> <plist version="1.0"> <dict> <key>Label</key> <string>Bluetooth Activation Daemon</string> <key>ProgramArguments</key> <array> <string>/usr/local/bin/blueutil</string> <string>on</string> </array> <key>StartInterval</key> <integer>5</integer> </dict> </plist> What this plist does is tell your launch daemon to start the blueutil program every five seconds and tell it to turn your bluetooth on. That way if it becomes unplugged or reset etc., it will just come back the next time the daemon runs, in about 5 seconds. This is the same thing that a LaunchDaemon does if your finder crashes. Eventually you will see your dock pop back up because a launch daemon is smart enough to hang around and look once in a while to see that the dock is ok and restarts it if it's not. Note that the <integer>5</integer> is the number of seconds it waits between attempts to turn on your bluetooth. If you're in less of a hurry, you can change it to 10 or 15, but I found it annoying to wait that long during testing, so I set it to 5 seconds. Save the .plist file and make sure the ownership of the file is set to root, then launch this bad boy with the launchctl tool: chown root:wheel /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.osx86.bluetooth.plist launchctl load /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.osx86.bluetooth.plist If you decide you want to {censored} around with the interval, make sure you stop and restart the daemon so that the changes take effect: launchctl unload /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.osx86.bluetooth.plist launchctl load /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.osx86.bluetooth.plist The next time you reboot, the launch daemon will automatically be started (that's what launch daemons do!!), so you don't have to type anything into terminal. Just sit back and use your mouse or keyboard or what have you. Please post here if you have any success with other devices (or less happily, failures). This solution works for me and my Belkin Bluetooth adaptor, but may not be as wonderful for you. On the other hand, this solution might be able to let someone sleep who has had no end of grief since they started using bluetooth! Here's hoping it's good news for YOU!! Mr Moebius blueutil.dmg
  10. H264 GPU hardware decoding

    It's not that it can't be done, but H264 is a much more tightly packed codec and therefore takes a lot more CPU power. For example an optimized codec, like the new 4:4:4 apple codec is optimized for forward and backward scrubbing and rendering for speed. H264 generally has fewer keyframes, so if you need to scrub from a point between two keyframes, it has to backtrack to the most recent keyframe and render forwards to get your frame. With a more complex compression algorhytm, this takes longer. Even worse, H264 doesn't have backwards keyframing, so if you are at the frame just before a keyframe, instead of rendering back one frame, it goes all the way back to the previous keyframe and renders forward.. Now, that said, the above is an aside from your original question, which asks for a video hardware decode solution... While I know that some video cards have H264 codecs on board (for example to playback blu-ray) I don't know that all software takes advantage of this. Anyone who scrubs H264 without any lags or performance problems is probably on a very fast machine, or using SD video where it doesn't have as many pixels to crunch as HD does. SD is so small compared to HD (720x480 = 345,600 pixels vs. 1920x1080 = 2,073,600 6X MORE PIXELS), that the difference in processor requirements are well within typical system capabilities, but on HD video, the pixel count is much higher, and let's not forget to multiply this by how many layers you are working with. Sure, simple cut editing between two clips won't be a big deal, but try stacking a few layers with some transparency and masks, and the pixel rendering requirement goes very high, very fast, in addition to your codec processing. I bought two Canon HV30s over the HF10/100s for exactly that reason. The HF10/100 has a super convenient flash card option, but it compresses H264 at 17MBps versus the HV30 which compresses HDV at 25MBps. The HDV codec is less compression efficient than H264, but also much easier to process, and with the extra bandwidth, 25MB/s vs only 17MB/s, it carries well. Think of it like constantly editing your video inside of a RAR or ZIP file, versus having it unzipped. It's a lot more overhead. You might say that acceleration makes this a moot point, but the HF series cameras actually have a warning that flashes up telling you that you are moving the camera too fast, because it's built-in hardware compressor can't keep up with the pixel data. I prefer to be the one deciding what movement I will and will not shoot... and even with hardware acceleration, I would rather reserve the extra speed for layers and effects. The HV30 also had a larger sensor chip than the HF10/100, and with image quality being an important concern, I opted to take the HDV-on-tape option over the convenience of flash, and have had no regrets. Another possibility is that those using FCP are mistaken that they are editing H264. If you digital ingest H264 from a video camera in FCP, it transcodes to ProRes automatically on import, making it essentially invisible that a transcode actually took place. **A friend of mine recently bought one of the new generation H264 Canon flash video cameras, and we did some tests with it. The ingest went very fast into ProRes on Final Cut Pro, and despite my purist apprehensions about transcoding footage before it's ever been touched, the quality was still very good, and I could see myself getting used to it. I have to say I am impressed with how quickly the ingest/transcode works - at more or less the speed of a file transfer, but the downside is that it still is actually transcoding (hence some possible, if only minimal degradation of image). In which case I would say at least use 4:4:4 for the best image (but beware of huge files!). I know that openCL is available for the first time on the Snow Leopard platform, but I don't know what limitations there are to what hardware it will run on (i.e. OSX86 platform hacks, kexts, injectors etc.). In addition to this, the software itself has to be OpenCL aware, otherwise the mere existence of openCL will mean nothing (just like the new Grand Central Dispatch improves multitasking for applications written to recognize it.) I believe I heard that Cyberlink has some hardware accelerated transcoding features in some of their newer windows software (presumably in response to the OpenCL hype), that converts back and forth ridiculously fast working directly with the video card, rather than through an OS API layer, but this will vary from card to card. There are also some other new apps on either platform that rocket through video files impressively fast using the same method. Some applications, such as After Effects, take advantage of OpenGL on video cards to speed up rendering of effects and can create dramatic performance improvments, but the basic I/O function of rendering H264 is something I don't know as much about. Presumably this should be among some of the very basic features of OpenCL, but that is only on Snow Leopard thus far. Anyone telling you they have hardware acceleration of H264 in their video cards pre-10.6 is either otherwise uninformed, (using something that transparently transcodes on ingest to another format without their knowledge, like FCP), or are using software that takes care of video hardware decoding directly rather than through the OS. MrMoebius
  11. The Bestest Cheapest OSX PC

    Asus P5GC-MX1333 Belkin 10/1000 NIC (onboard tricky to install and the belkin is 1000-T!!) Palit 8500GT (cheap but half decent video card, easily installed with NVDarwin or NVInject. Any Core2Duo Chip, say a 3.0GHz A couple sticks of RAM Any SATA Hard Drive Cheap case, DVD-ROM, etc... Should be under $400 easy
  12. Mazzie Retired

    MAZZIE NOOOOOO!!!! We NEED you for CS4! All the people you left behind are doing is making a register blocker that times out! Please one more time in the ring!!! M
  13. It looks like a nice interface for adding entries, but what about doing queries? For example I followed the tree down to my motherboard, the ASUS P5GC-MX/1333 and there was nothing there. Is that to say that there is nothing populated in that data node? How can someone see which items actually have data in them instead of just empty nodes? I don't mind putting in my info from what I've had working but it's nice to know there is some way to tell if someone else had any success, even if it's someone looking for my results...
  14. Users with GMA 950 / X3100 Real Macs needed here

    Hi Paulicat! Attached is an ioreg from my mac mini dualcore, and another from my Asrock Conroe for reference (the machine I want to get the 950 working on properly) Hopefully this will help you out! (and me too!!) Cheers! Mac_Mini_ioreg.txt Asrock_Conroe_1333_ioreg.txt
  15. Users with GMA 950 / X3100 Real Macs needed here

    Nice screenshot...Do you think Lila is going to turn Dexter in, or will Doakes start talking to Lundy? I have a mini at home running Leo... I will post the dump when I get back from work...
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