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About iRobie

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    InsanelyMac Protégé
  1. I've uploaded the latest version that I had to the first post. Now, just to give you a heads up, it might not work. I'm at work and zipped it from a windows machine. Not sure how Windows deals with zipping mpkg files. If it doesn't work let me know and I'll do it from my Mac. And I'll try to be fancy and add the link here too: [My fancy attachment idea didn't work. Just go to the first post instead] I retired this board just two weeks ago. It's still a great board, but I wanted more RAM. I'm now rocking a GA-P67A-UD3-B3 board, with 16gb ram cause DDR3 is dirt cheap right now. First, the extra RAM and CPU make a huge difference in Aperture. I was worried I couldn't see a difference, but for photo processing it was worth it. And second, although the install is more involved, the compatibility has been great. After a clean install I had 1 finder lock up, that I think was due to a bad Bluray drive choice. Pulling the drive has fixed all issues so far. So I can't test stuff or pull DSDT files, but I still have all my old stuff archived. Hope this helps!
  2. For anyone having more sleep troubles, my semi-fresh build just started experiencing them too. Insomnia. After some research & experimentation, I found out the Photoshop plugins by OnOne software can cause this problem. See thread here to see the same symptoms on an official Mac Pro. It also provides another good troubleshooting technique: clear items from /Library/StartupItems and see if that helps sleep issues. After deleting that file, I'm sure OnOne won't work anymore but my computer does sleep.
  3. I'd reseat the heatsink, but I have plenty of Arctic Silver lying around. If you don't have that, I'd check these three things: Is the CPU fan still spinning? You could have bumped a wire or something Is the heatsink/fan secure to the motherboard, or does it move slightly if you rock it? ANY movement at all indicates it's not on the CPU correctly If 1 and 2 pass, work up the CPU some and physically feel the heatsink. If it's warm/hot, then heat is being transferred from the CPU, and your problem isn't between the CPU and heatsink (reseating won't help). If it's cold & your CPU is reading hot, then reseating will likely help. If #2 or #3 are the case and you do need to reseat, I highly recommend getting some more thermal grease. I use Arctic Silver 5. The good news is you can use your old setup until you get a shipment of new thermal grease (I mean, reseat it without changing thermal grease first). The problem you'll face by reusing your old coating is some air bubbles, which will heat up the CPU. Now, I'm a big believer that the CPU will protect itself & clock down if it's overheating - though it's debatable by many. So go into the BIOS and make sure you have the Thermal Sensor set (I forget what it's called, but it reduces your CPU if it starts overheating) & the PC Health thing checked to shutdown your computer at 70 or 80 degrees C. And be sure to read documents on how to apply Arctic Silver I was using the "spread" technique for many years - changing to the "horizontal line" dropped my temps by 7*!
  4. That's exactly what I was thinking. This board has a 4-pin CPU Fan & a 3-pin Sys fan. If the SuperIO can't mix and match, it can only control one at a time.
  5. Ah, thanks! The Fan2 thing is kind of strange. Fan0 is the one with the RPM monitor, but Fan2 is the one with the temp controls. Getting rid of one breaks the system I have... very strange. And I don't know if I saw the end section either, thanks for pointing that out! On this board, the SYS_FAN isn't a PWM fan. I tried plugging in a fan there & controlling it with software but wasn't too successful. Could be because I called it SYS_FAN (instead of SYS_FAN2), or because I had Voltage = FALSE like you suggested, which to me indicates a 3 pin fan wouldn't work. Who knows? But I have it plugged into a fan controller anyway, so I have very little incentive to fix it. For anyone else that wants to slow down or speed up there CPU fan, I've attached three FakeSMCs in this archive: FakeSMC-reallyslowfan: 25*/5% fan, 70*/100% fan FakeSMC-slowfan: 25*/5% fan, 60*/100% fan FakeSMC-fastfan: 30*/50% fan, 50*/100* fan So, if you want to overclock and want to keep low temps, use fast fan. If you have a processor with a TCore of 64 but want as quiet as you can, go for slowfan. And if you have a higher Tcore processor and want quiet, use reallyslowfan. To use any, first delete FakeSMC.kext from /Extra/Extensions. Then use Kext Utility to install whatever kext you want, after unzipping of course And if you want to set temps yourself, take any of the FakeSMC files, and find: FakeSMC.kext/Contents/PlugIns/FakeSMCSuperIO.kext/Contents/Info.plist Edit that file. Change "Fan2" settings to match your needs. Then run Kext Utility again & reboot. FakeSMC_fanspeeds.zip
  6. Can you upload your FakeSMC file? I've tried a lot of different combinations... latest rev w/ SuperIO, w/ SMCITEController, rev218, rev190. Finally with rev171 & Info.plist editing on SuperIO I can set fan speed in iStat, but it does nothing. And yes, in my various attempts I did change temps in SuperIO The console messages always said the same - setting starting temp at 20, even if I changed that to 40 or something else. You're not on the G41M, are you? Has anyone gotten fan control working with the G41M? This FakeSMC allows you to see CPU temps, fan speeds, and GPU temps so it's a great addition! I'm just getting greedy :-D Win7 averages about 1000rpms (basically silent) while OSX averages ~1450rpms on my Arctic Freezer CPU fan, and I'm trying to find out why.
  7. Great! I had no idea this existed! To use this: 1. Download FakeSMC from the link provided. 2. Right-click FakeSMC, show package contents. Go into plugins. Then delete X3100 plugin. 3. Delete fakesmc.kext from /Extra/Extensions 4. Install this fakesmc with Kext Utility (I installed via terminal, but Kext Utility puts it in /S/L/E and *should* work) I can't control the fans, but it reads them and reads CPU better. Thanks!
  8. I think I only changed the HPET, and disabled unused components. Floppy Drive in particular will slow down Windows install to a crawl. If there are more changes I'll edit the first page. I added a BIOS section but it's pretty bare since I haven't changed anything in a few months. I wouldn't recommend installing MyHack to your SATA drive then ridgeline's on top of that. That's asking for trouble! I'm glad you got it working though Use MyHack to make a USB bootable stick or drive, then install Ridgeline to your main HDD. I've had success with two different 400 firewire cards. I went PCI first, but it was too large with my video card's massive heatsink & fan. This PCI card worked: SYBA PCI to Firewire PCI-E card sits just fine about the vid card. This is the one I have: SYBA 2 Ports PCI-E IEEE 1394A For CPU temps, there are a number of products that work. iStat menu is one that I'm using, and there's one called Temperature Monitor. One note: this board has a more aggressive cooling program than others I'm using (with F8 firmware). That is, when the CPU reads at 22*C it runs the fan at it's lowest setting (30%). Above that and the board runs on a scaled setting, up to 66*C (100% fanspeed). I'm investigating a way to raise the initial temperature because other boards have higher settings, meaning the fans will be quieter during idle. Drives me nuts how loud this is by default! And - iStat will only read the core temperatures, versus the "CPU temp" that the bios reads. In Windows there are programs that read both - my CPU reads 25* "CPU temp" and 41/39* "Core" temps. So if you see something high in iStat, don't worry. Check it in the bios, or boot into Windows to really check it.
  9. This is a MicroATX board. It won't fit in a Mini-itx case. Yes, you will have problems. SL restore disks - those that come with iMacs, Macbooks, etc., are keyed to that specific machine series. You won't be able to use that disk for a Hackintosh without modification. You can probably Google around to find a tutorial on modifying the disk, but you'll need a Mac already to do it and that's beyond the scope of this topic.
  10. It might be the USB Legacy devices switch that allows for this. But that is enabled with optimized settings, so unless you disabled that I'm stumped. Mine works great. Are you on a wireless keyboard?
  11. I followed tonmacx86 guide here. Now honestly, I've done this a lot using different methods and I forget what the problems with this method were. I believe these are the issues, but this is based on my memory and NOT documented experiences: If you use the MyHack guide (install OSX, then Win7, then use MyHack), you'll end up needing to repair the MBR and repair Windows installation. That's the downside. The upside is you can use MBR formatted disks, so WinXP is usable. If you use Tonymac's guide w/ Tonymac's installer ([url="http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/279450-why-insanelymac-does-not-support-tonymacx86/"]#####[/url]), dual boot works extremely well. You can place Ridgeline's DSDT file on your desktop & use a custom install selecting the correct audio (888b) and network (Realtek SL 1000) options. However, in my experience this led to slower connections for SMB shares. I don't know why because it's the same Realtek driver. Could be because I was trying 32 bit w/ Tonymac, could be due to iMac smbios settings instead of MacPro. Could be that Ridgeline has magic Don't know why. (My current setup): tonymacx86 guide w/ Ridgeline's installer worked well, but I did have to repair the Windows installation after setup. To do this, boot to your Windows disc after both Win7 & SL are installed, then on the second screen select Repair existing installer. I'm not sure why this was needed with Ridgeline & not tonymac. That boggles me because I thought they're boot managers were the same. Once you get dual booting working, I have two ways to get into Windows: Chameleon gives me 1-2 seconds on boot to select windows I have a shortcut on my desktop that changes the active partition to the Windows partition. Then on reboot it goes into Windows. Same thing on Windows side - I have a shortcut that changes the partition to Snow Leopard. Not necessary unless you remote into your computer & want to switch sides remotely. But it sure is convenient! Almost like having the official Bootcamp on my hack Sounds like your bios reset settings to default. Load optimized settings. This will enable USB Keyboard, which will fix the chameleon problem. Then set HPET to 64-bit. And do other BIOS stuff - turn off floppy drive, disable Parallel ports, etc.
  12. I've added the disk repartitioning in Step 1. Good call. I can't recommend using diskpart or any other Windows tool at this point because, to me, that's just asking for trouble. If you're going to format & partition a drive, use Mac's disk utility. Diskpart won't let you format in HFS+ anyway, so you're going to duplicate effort. And I've added a video help section pointing to Gatzs' post. Ridgeline- I finally have the QX6700 working in a "I can recommend this" fashion. Took a lot of testing! It needs VoodooTSCsync to run properly, which is running fine on 10.6.3 & I've heard 10.6.4. If you wanted to post those DSDT files on your site, please make a note that voodootscsync is required. The long story is the sound skipping was a symptom of timing issues (console showed mDNSPlatformRawTime: last_mach_absolute_time). Another symptom was the mouse being jittery. Booting with idlehalt=0 fixed the issue, but the temps read at 70* and the fans blew hard. I don't think temps were really that high since Prime95 in Windows only gets to 55*. The newer VoodooPSync had the same temp issue, honestly I forget if the old version (the one in your post) did too. After a lot of research and testing I found Voodootscsync, which solves all the problems. This problem is not present on other CPUs - I tried E8200 and E6600. Something about this one CPU causes issues.
  13. I have the GTS 250 also now - it works great with this board. Have you tried the generic DSDT? And what do you mean by it doesn't work? Doesn't boot? Doesn't sleep? Doesn't use video card properly?
  14. Great! So, there are no open issues with this board? Except my sound popping using one CPU, which has two solutions (use Voodoopstate or USB audio). Well, now that everyone's board is working, there's an issue I ran into the other day. I upgraded my Flash player to 10.1 gala. That made all flash videos very choppy. I uninstalled, and installed the latest version (10.1). Chrome also has 10.1 built in. Still choppy. Downgrading my flash player to 10.0.45 fixed that - then disabling the internal 10.1 flash player of Chrome fixed it in Chrome. Anyone else ran into that? I can post the 10.0.45 installer if others are having the same problem.
  15. Does sleeping/waking work in Windows? My general rule is to fix it in Windows first, then fix on the SL side.