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perestrojka

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About perestrojka

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    InsanelyMac Protégé
  1. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    Sry for not updating this thread, you guys can check fully updated worklog in here: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/312122-case-mod-powertosh-i5-powermac-g5-watercooled-hackintosh Finally i bought better smartphone ( iPh 5s ) So, i'am bringing u some pictures w/ LED lights on in a semi-dark room
  2. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    Today I've got sponsorship packet from Icemodz ( http://www.icemodz.com ). Ty Icemodz ! Sleeving color scheme for 24/8/6 pin cables Planned sata and molex color scheme Sata: 3-1-1 ( white-black-white ) Molex: 2-1-1 ( white-black-white ) Yesterday i got some presents again, this time from DIYINHK.com. I've ordered PWM Control 18W PCB for DDC pump ( http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/ddc-pump/41-laing-ddc-pump-18w-repair-pcb-wled-smd-soldered-mcp355.html ) because there is no need for the pump to run on max rpm 0/24, and i wanted to use benefits of Sabertooth 4-pin headers and ASUS's Thermal radar control. So, here it is: Upgrade PCB kit with blue LEDs. System was flushed out and disassembled and pump is ready for her upgrade New PCB is slightly smaller than original one Old PCB dissasembled Stator coil Old VS New PCB We can clearly see how far technology went in just 10 years, that single IC and a few diodes on new PCB are replacing bunch of ICs and semiconductors from the old PCB. Also new PCB is made out of 4 layers, vs 2 layer on old one. This is a huge benefit in form of power delivery to the coils itself and it is more prone to pcb burnout due copper current limitation old boards had ( copper lines on the board were too small and too resistant, aka they were limiting max current that can flow into the coils, and when users placed those pumps into restrictive loops, stator demanded more and more current to maintain desired RPMs ) In that upgrade kit i've also received 4 blue LEDs and 2 SMD resistors, but as i don't own transparent top + i hate blue LEDs inside of a computer ( they are too much redneck-ish ) i won't use them. R2 and R3 are locations for those 2 resistors, and D1,D2,D3 & D4 are places where you should solder LEDs if you wish. PCB contacts treated with solder for easier soldering of stator and power / control wires. Stator pulled out from pump's casing, i did this for easier wire preparation. Total of 6 coils with 2 wires, so i had to cut 6 exact wire pairs. Preparation is the key of everything ( 85% preparation + 15% work = 100% of wanted result at the end ), so i stripped wire ends and treated them with tin. Extension wires connected with the stator wires. Those tiny white blobs on wire junctions are small amounts of nail polish, i used it to isolate bare connections from shorting together once the stator is placed inside of his casing and connected with PCB. * Unfortunately i was really excited to test out the pump, so i forgot to take pictures of wires soldered on pcb, but i will take them later before final steps and project completition. * Cables are sleeved and connected, white one is for RPM signal and PWM control that is connecting to the MBO 4-pin header, and inside the black one are 12+ and GND wires that are connected to the PSU. So... you guys are probably asking yourself why on earth would someone do all this job if he had perfectly ok and 100% working device ? Well, i like to do diy stuff and enhance electronic devices whenever i can, someone is playing soccer, someone is riding his bike, and to me this is my satisfaction and a way of relaxation Ok ok, but if we put that aside, are there really benefits of this PCB ? YES ! :) Pump is now under Sabertooth's control Normally pump is working @ 850RPM I've conected 4-pin header that is controling pump's RPMs with CPU thermal sensor, so whenever CPUs temp rises a bit, pump will also speed up, to keep more of the water flowing thru cpu block. Temp difference between 850 and 3900 RPM is cca 2 degrees of Celsius in idle and 4 in full load, BUT noise difference between min and max RPMs that is hell of a improvement and it was worth of extra 20 GBP + 2 hours of "work" ( I say "work" because i do this for fun :3 ) So, I've finally catched some spare time and i can continue working on this case. I/O bracket fixed in place with epoxy resin. Original fan holes section removed. I decided to use original CPU cover plate because i can easily drill thru it, also i will drill holes around G5 logo, so letters will remain unpainted / original. Drill testing Okay, here we go Steps remaining in this project: * G5 plate drilling * fixing imperfections on handmade cuts / drillouts / connections * psu cable sleeving * case sanding / primer coating / painting ETA remaining: 2 weeks max. ( i hope ) Snippet for impatient ones Cover perforation 24pin cable sleeving Edit: Just got CLU few mins ago So, morning was perfect for de-lid process Instead of razor blade method or vice and hammer method i used new method, my own Procedure is the same as razor blade method procedure, but instead of razor blade i used very thin plastic sheet i had from usb drive package. This plastic is perfect for this kind of work, thin, sharp and smooth. Liquid Ultra on die Liquid Ultra on IHS With this i got more event temps across all cores Before de-lid, min / max core difference was 14 degrees Celsisus. Note: Currently CPU is cooled with box cooler / i did quick and poor Phobya Nano grease application, so we won't see the real results before i mount watercooling loop and put everything in case. But as far i'am satisfied with lower ΔT across all cores Small update: Front mesh( port holes are covered / perforated ) Rear mesh ( fixed in place and perforated ) Hello Mr. Ive :D Moar picturezzz in day or two Black cage Side panel was sanded down after 1st primer layer, ( wet sanding - soapy water with P800 grit sanding paper ) "Mirror" finish Primer coating, 2nd layer Musical motivation used during this work: Edit: Few hours later, sidepanel was coated with black spray paint, and wet-sanded with P2000 paper. Paint is in 60% mirror finish stage. Test assembly Additional shots taken, i temporarely installed one LED white strip out of two, to see how this will look EK logo is painted, so reservoir holders aren't so dull and completely black Icemodz 24pin cable holder ( one of the plexy bits broke, because in few sleeves there are 2 wires going to the MBO connector ) These Monsoon fittings are absolutely gorgeus Once again i would like to express my gratitude to sponsors who had faith in my work: http://www.blacknoise.com - Noiseblocker - premium fan manufacturer http://www.icemodz.com - Icemodz - modding equipment, tools and accesories http://www.monsooncooling.com - MonsooN- Premium watercooling accesories and tools http://www.pcaxe.com - PCAXE - Regional E-zine and Youtube PC enthusiast community https://www.youtube.com/user/PCAXE and to all people who followed this project, got subscribed to my work log and got involved in via discussion and suggestions. Status of this project is still in: Work in Progress, so stay tuned
  3. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    Small update / tease GTX 980 Phantom I5 4690K GPU is already installed for benching / testing on air Currently i had GTX 760 Phantom from my mate who borrowed it to me, since HD7850 died because of VRM shorting ( too much vgpu / +50% power limit is bad for cheap vrm ), and considering the fact that they advertise Phantom line as colder / quieter solution is absolute lie, they get hot as hell and noisy also, but i don't know, noise tolerance varies from person to person... So.. i can't wait for vrm watercooling parts, so i can put this Maxwell beast under H20 and do some proper bios tweaking / overclocking
  4. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    I will for sure , my XFX 7850 is gone ( too much voltage on GPU 1250MHz @ 1.315V, VRM section got fried ) and i need to pick up GTX 980 / i5 4690k from my local store in hour or so, and then i can do some work with bechmarks and osx tweaking
  5. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    Hi, yeah, i'am currently posting at other forums much more than here, you can check it on this one: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/312122-case-mod-powertosh-i5-powermac-g5-watercooled-hackintosh/ After i finally got OS X Yosemite working on my hw, gpu decided to die, so i'am waiting for gtx 980 and i5 K cpu. I 'll continue work with this Hackintosh in a week or so, and i hope that it will be finished by the end of May.
  6. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    Here we go, some minor updates. Today i had in plan only to mount some heatsinks on VGA card. But DHL courier surprised me with Dremel tool, so i had to test it out First thing to do was: cutting out excess material from optics cover, so i can fit it in and connect to the rest of the case with epoxy. It isn't perfect cut, but enough for epoxy treatment. Piece is finished and ready for stage 2. MBO tray shared very same destiny as optics cover. I had to cut out excess material for fitting it inside the case. After all, i've decided to use Chieftec's side panel, and put it to good use in this mod. Radiator mount is finished, i need to cut out middle part and some holes to hold everything in place. Next to do: Cutting out back side for new IO panel. Stay tuned ! Radiator holder is finished I still need to take the old paint off and prepare it for paintjob + drill holes for radiator mount + glue some L holders with epoxy. So.. I've decided to do some minor work today to put this tool to good use. Radiator panel holders have been cutted out from old psu case: Few pictures of planned fixation to the panel: I also cutted out honeycomb mesh to use it in this project, i still don't know where this will be placed, and how; but i'am considering placing it somewhere near the pump, or to use it at top radiator panel mounting points. Another day, another worklog update I was cutting out IO bracket from Chieftec ( pain in the ass #1 ) and a backplate hole for IO bracket on Powermac's case ( pain in the ass #2 ) Iet the pictures talk for themselves: IO bracket separated Pre-cutting measuring Done! On this one you can see true power of Dremel tool if used correctly
  7. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    Got some presents from: Monsoon / 3/8 - 1/2 White compression fittings http://monsooncooling.com/ BlackNoise Technologies / three B12-PS PWM eLoop fans. http://www.blacknoise.com/ - - - Updated - - - Update: So.. I've received packet from AquaTuning.de just few hours ago Phobya Nano Grease Phobya 2 component thermal glue / grease AlphaCool VRAM heatsinks Watercool Heatkiller GPU X3 core Watercool Heatkiller CPU LC Monsoon fittings mounted on CPU block Monsoon fittings mounted on GPU block I had to put tubing, to see how this will look ( Alphacool 10/13 Black UV ) + Got update from EK Waterblocks, they shipped packet to Croatia, I should get it tomorrow by end of the day ( CoolStream PE 360, RES X2 - 100 Basic, XTOP DDC - Acetal (Original CSQ) ) And I'am still waiting on confirmation from Dremel ( Dremel 4200 ) ; SilverStone / XFX / SeaSonic ( Fanless PSU ) on parts sponsorship. - - - Updated - - - Update: Got parts from EKw I've decided to install res, as this will make process of filling much easier Double fin radiator Case is dismantled and got shower room treatment for stain and oil removal. I used this opportunity to see how components will look inside of it, and also to try their placement on planned spots. Remember that case from the beginning, when i took DDC apart to clean it off, well, after closer look i saw that mbo tray is removable, so my current case won't be sacrificed as much as it needed to be. Also original holes and mount will be used to fix in place some of components like psu and radiator I'll put diy mounting system in here, so i won't have problems later to dismantle something if needed.
  8. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    Thnx, I will try to update asap; currently i'am waiting on some parts and tools to arrive
  9. perestrojka

    Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

    Got some presents from: Monsoon / 3/8 - 1/2 White compression fittings http://monsooncooling.com/ BlackNoise Technologies / three B12-PS PWM eLoop fans. www.blacknoise.com/
  10. So, I decided to finally put my hands on Powermac G5 case, and build my dream computer / cooling system. For years i was trying to find used case on our local cragilist-a-like website, and pretty much there was no super deals. And finally ! Few days ago, there it was, one ad got my attention, Powermac 7.3, with LCS, non functional ( LCS drained out all over the PPCs and PSU ), i was happy as hell , instantly got on my e-mail and started communication with seller, i was keeping my savings for situations like this Aaand in less than 36hours, here it is, DHL knocked on my door, yeeeeeeeeei LCS was of course malfunctioned, but no worries my friends! Pump is still functional... Great deal, considering only pump would cost me much more than i paid for delivery + item. So here it is, sweet little DDC guy As i was talking with seller about our deal, i worked on 3d sketch for my project in the same time, and here it is. Front Back Renders My dream is to build as quiet as possible, yet well cooled and re-usable case / cooling system that will fit to any motherboard / gpu / cpu configuration in future. So, what are these compartments inside of it ? Well, i had in mind to use only 3 fans to cool whole pc, and to achieve maximum airflow / cooling effect without any additional fans except these on water radiator. So in this build i will go with fanless PSU, 3 x 120 NoiseBlocker Bionic eLoop fans on pwm and i will try to make thermal zones, so fans can speed up individually if there is a problem with temperature arise in one of the compartments without need to speed up another 2 fans. Apple Powermac case is perfect for build like this, as his perforated front and back side are ideal for vertical radiator placement and it will enable me to do what i want. Also i think that build quality is well known, this thing is built like a tank * reserved * ----------------------------------------- HW * Other parts are still unknown * RAM: Avexir Core A Type PSU: Silverstone Nightjar 520 ----------------------------------------- LCS HW Laing DDC-VC pump Watercool HK CPU Rev. 3.0 LC Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X3 EK-CoolStream PE 360 3 * 120 mm radiator ( 19FPI double fin ) Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS Bionic loop EK-XTOP DDC - Acetal (Original CSQ) Alphacool tubing AlphaTube black Monsoon 13/10mm (ID 3/8" OD 1/2") white fittings IceModz cable managment - white, black and grey sleeve combination ----------------------------------------- I decided to pull out all things from it, and leave the rest for tomorrow, but Battlefield 4 servers were swarmed with children that day, so i decided to take a closer look on LCS pump, and to see if that machinery is still working. Ewwwww I had to clean that {censored} out What the heck? What kind of Laing pump is this ? Well, it is DDC-VC, model with volumetric compensator {censored} that got stuck inside pump, some debris, rust and who know what... I actually found something that was similar to pineapple chunks ( i don't want to know what that is xD ) Case is 90% cleaned out, I'am waiting for my Dremel tool to arrive to continue work on it ( old one wasn't in use for 6 years, and decided to die when i powered it on to do some cut-outs on that case ) And for the end of that night, random workplace pic, i was 50hours awake because of some other projects / work, and that was all for this night. Time to sleep Current status: * Waiting for Dremel tool delivery * Waiting for some cash to buy remaining LCS parts / HW parts * Waiting for sponsors to arrange parts sponsorships ( Don't worry, i have this project 100% covered by myself, but sponsorships are always welcome ) P.S. Sorry for grammar mistakes, English isn't my native language
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