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bonestonne last won the day on February 1 2013

bonestonne had the most liked content!

About bonestonne

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    InsanelyMac Sage
  1. Tuf-est Love G5 Mod

    I'm really liking that black and white color scheme a lot. How are those fans? I almost bought them, but at the last minute, I changed my mind to NoiseBlocker ELoop fans. Very clean...makes me want to dust off my G5 and finish it...maybe this winter.
  2. [BUILDING] Mac Mini3

    That TIM application, my OCD is killing me. Grain of rice is more than enough, that X is way too much, and wont cover the die very well. No offense to that one article, but I work in a repair shop, and about the size of a grain of rice is more than enough. The dying process looks good for a single color, definitely. Were there any problems with the contacts after the dying process? I don't expect there would be, but I'm curious. Any plans for custom wiring or sleeving, beyond the dying process? Nice to see something unique again.
  3. Need some assistance with iPad 2 issues.

    Hello all, I have a bit of a serious issue with an iPad 2, and I'm at wits end. Since I primarily work with Android devices, I'm catching up on my iOS knowledge.... Here's the situation from start to finish: I have an iPad 2 Wifi only. Long story short, I had to replace the battery, screen, dock connector and digitizer due to an accident that I'd rather not elaborate on. I'll upload some pictures later maybe. My sister, being my sister, did a number of things that made this situation difficult. 1) She couldn't, or wouldn't tell me the password to get into it. 2) She never ran a software update on it from her computer. 3) It broke. Things she touches, at least, electronics, tend to break. So, being my tech savvy self, I threw it into Recovery Mode, downloaded the latest update, and reflashed it to 6.1.3. What a disaster that turned into. I'm not sure quite what caused the issue, because it happens regardless of the sync cable I use or firmware I try to put on it. Currently, the iPad just enters a reboot loop. On the rare occasion I can keep it on long enough to hit the system preferences, I can get into the logs, and I see a CRC ERR being reported, over and over and over. I do the reset again, no change, just CRC ERR again. The funny thing was that when I first put the thing back together, it worked, no CRC ERR, no reboot loop, just locked out. Now, this iPad is finally home from college, so I'm not sure if she even knows the password, or if her friends were playing some cruel joke on her. In all of my reading last night, I found that if I want to try and reflash the device to iOS v5.1.1, I need a blob. Well, I don't have one, nor do I think I would be able to get one. I couldn't find any online, and I was looking pretty hard. I can't even seem to find a way to reliably jailbreak it, because the iPad doesn't stay on long enough for any app to recognize it. I didn't put it all back together yet, so taking it apart isn't a big deal still, but I'm stumped. it's the iPad2,1 if that makes any difference. I'd like to flash it back to 5.1.1 and see if that makes any difference, but currently, I can't do a thing with it. Any thoughts? It's long out of warranty, I'm not going to waste my time with the Genius Bar because I'm not going to pay someone an ungodly amount of money for this (that already happened once when it was bought), I just want to try and get it working again. I'm at wits end, if anyone has any idea of how I could get it working, or any way to troubleshoot the CRC ERR, I'd really appreciate it. I know it's not a loose connection, I cleaned it pretty good, but at this point, I'm not going to replace the logic board in it, I've spent enough money getting this far, I'll be rather annoyed if it's for nothing, between all of the parts, none of them are exactly returnable. I have OS X/Windows/Linux at my disposal, whatever works is what I'm happy with. Anyway, any thoughts or tips would be great, I'm not in a complete rush, but I'd like to get it working again eventually...I have an Asus TF-101, but my sister is really whiney when her iGadgets break (purely her own doing, she also managed to completely a kill an iPhone 3G). Thanks, bonestonne
  4. [Build Log] Shifty G5/mATX Conversion

    I find that funny because my previous desktop only has GSkill RAM in it, and it never had a single issue. I'd be more inclined to recognize an issue if the motherboard has a different voltage listed on the RAM slots than what the RAM is spec'd for. Even if you get new RAM, check the voltages, it may be all voltage and your current RAM could be fine.
  5. [Build Log] Shifty G5/mATX Conversion

    When you say "crashes at the BIOS screen," what do you mean by crash? Is the machine resetting, turning off, something else? I would agree with Mr. D., you're issue could very well be the CPU. As far as the static discharge from the case, it likely means your front panel (power button, USB/Firewire) is not properly grounded. This is well documented with Antec cases, and the design and front panel wiring was updated in production so the issue doesn't happen anymore.
  6. G5 Hackintosh - First attempt

    I'm not saying it's a bad job, I'm just pointing out that it really isn't idea. As far as the HDD/SSD temps..they're less than 2" away from a pair of fans. If I had a fan that close to my hard drives, the temps would be the same.
  7. G5 Hackintosh - First attempt

    Hot air rises, so pushing that air towards the front of the case means that upper fan is going to suck it back into the CPU area. All fans should just flow in one direction, it's neater, cooler and quieter. The GPU having an Accelero S1 Plus likely will not change at all if the CPU fan direction was changed. Considering the rear fan blows out of the case, the other fans should go in the same direction, helps cool better with air pressure.
  8. G5 Hackintosh - First attempt

    You have two fans pushing air towards the back, and the CPU fan blowing towards the front going solely off the pictures... It's an airflow disaster.
  9. G5 Hackintosh - First attempt

    You should flip the CPU fan around, it's blowing the wrong way.
  10. Well, I got an iMac.

    Excuse my ignorance, but I have a couple questions.. With a plethora of laptops, why bother transporting the desktop around? It seems wildly counterintuitive when you could achieve the same results with something you already have. Now, by no means am I discouraging going out and buying an Apple product, I have a 15" hi-res matte finish 2011 i7 mbp, and I use it as my primary laptop (I also have an i7 Toshiba 14"), but if you're just playing video presentations, either a projector or a medium sized TV would give you the same thing. I've seen many issues with the iMacs which get very heavy use, so I would beware of that, but if it works, use it. I'm going in the opposite direction. I'm beginning work in longer and longer video pieces (2 minutes, 8 minutes and then 90+ minutes, HD/the works). That said though, I'd never move my desktop around, I would just render out a lower res version to play back from something else, or wildly enough, I could render a 1080p version and play it off my Raspberry Pi connected to a nice TV or projector. So I guess to break it down, why the iMac over a projector or TV? as well as why not going to places that provide computers/Tvs/Projectors and just bringing a flash drive/external media?
  11. Raspberry Pi - Available - Kind of....

    I love my Pi, but it is just an educational tool more than anything else. For more powerful ARM units, you'll end up paying a little more (upwards of $100 or so), but they are much more capable with better support through Android, and probably other ARM based OSes, but the hardware support is not very wide. For anyone looking for a really beefy ARM unit, I'd look at the ODROID-U2. I'll probably get one in the summer to use as a full media center, rather than having to turn on the PS3 for youtube videos.
  12. G5 // Legacy

    It is possible to modify an mSATA SSD to work in the mPCI-e slot. It is likely not possible, or very difficult to use a mPCI-e card in an mSATA port. Physically, the connectors look and are pinned out identically. The electrical and data connections are different between the two. What you're looking to do is the opposite of what people will typically try to modify, and I'm not sure if you would be able to successfully reverse the connections and have everything work.
  13. Mr. D, I didn't mind at all, I think it's important for the collective to share and collaborate, and if one idea is out there, by all means, it may not be the dream of someone else, but it's a great place to start! For myself personally, because I work in a computer shop, having the support is irrelevant to me. I have warranties on the parts, so that's all I really need in case of a failure. This may not be the same case for many others.
  14. GTX670 is a plenty good card. I opted for a GTX660Ti for lower power consumption. The nVidia Quadro series is honestly incredibly underpowered for what it is, so I think it's okay that you returned it. For actual workstation graphics, the GTX series is way more powerful when you need the CUDA platform as part of the software. When CUDA isn't a dealbreaker, the AMD/ATI W5000 is probably the best bang for the buck card you could get. I would definitely shop around for either Asus DirectCU, MSI TwinFrozr, or Gigabyte WindForce OC models because they have far superior stock cooling than the reference model, and it will be incredibly beneficial. I would suggest shopping around for workload distribution software, it's important to determine what's best for you. I have Apple Qadministrator on my laptop, but I do not have an active cluster created, and that was specifically used at my old school in a small Final Cut Studio cluster. For clustering Maya renders, you should look specifically into what will work best for that. I've heard of people using Backburner, but again, you should look into what is best for you.
  15. Maya has the option of using a third party render application, while I haven't ever had to use something like this myself, I'm sure there are applications that would be able to make full use of the immense power of a graphics card. There are a couple things I would do in your situation: 1) A new Dual Xeon is not going to give you a massive boost in speed alone, so I would save some money and stick with the Xeon E5 6-Core, not the 8 core models. I use a 2620, The 2640 is also a pretty good model. I honestly wouldn't spend more than $1000 per CPU, because you have a trick up your sleeve anyway. Air cool them. Pick a cooler that will fit on the motherboard, pick a case that will fit the coolers. This is the most complicated part to building a really good dual Xeon rig. I see too many that are entirely too loud, and I hate it. I build silent computers for a reason, and in my Dual Xeon rig, my WD Velociraptor is the loudest component. You may want to look into Velociraptors or even Solid State drives for an additional speed boost. 2) Registered ECC DDR3 is going to be your best friend, 32gb is a good start. You'll probably move to needing more in the future. 3) Tyan, Supermicro or Asus motherboards. I'm not sure what's available in your area, so it will take some shopping around. You'll need a reliable but beefy Power Supply for this. 750W is more than enough. Antec, Seasonic, BeQuiet or Enermax. Those are the big names for the highest quality power supplies. You don't need more than 750W, so don't listen to anyone who tells you you'll need 1000W or more. 4) If you've got a Quadro 4000, you can make use of it in the new build hopefully. 5) Once you've got the new build completed, you're going to want to find a really good Gigabit Network switch. Enterprise level Netgear switches are extremely fast. Pricy, but worth it. Set up your Mac Pro as a network render machine to help spread the workload with the new machine. You will see an immense boost in render times far beyond what the 8 cores are going to give you, while saving $800-$1000 just on CPUs. If you have other older Dual Xeon machines, add them to your render cluster. Designing a good render farm is by and large the absolutely best way to speed up render times. Just buying a new machine may speed up the process a little, but it will not give you the drastic change that you're looking for.