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MacBookJoe

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About MacBookJoe

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    InsanelyMac Protégé
  1. It has been done, but you'd need to use a Black Ice rad or other high CFM rad as the depth is very limited. You'll also suffer from poor airflow. I've fitted a single Koolance RAD to the front fan assembly took some modding but works a treat. ... J.
  2. G5 ATX mod with a twist

    Very nice, clean, minimal. awesome! congrats! J.
  3. Mac Pro case mod questions

    Cheers :-) I do love the stock look! I'd have liked to have kept mine that way. then bought another MacPro to go crazy with. I think everyone will understand my intentions once the latest phase is complete. I've moved away from the Hackintosh scene. As I was into Folding and pushing my rig for every last MHZ I could sqeeeeze out of it. Check out that AquaMac thread. I think that most X58 boards are the same ie Gigabyte (regardless of the model) So if Asus are fully catered for with OSX86 I'd be inclined to suggest the GENEII as it ticks all your boxes and would be the easiest to fit in a MacPro. I'm not sure about crossfire support in OSX86 but like I said. I've drifted somewhat. Will be great to see your progress, look forward to seeing lots of photos. J.
  4. Mac Pro case mod questions

    Aquamac was able to get dual GPU's running in his latest MacPro build but it all depends on the Motherboard. With my i7 build I've gone back to M-ATX as they are not what they once were. the ASUS GENEII allows me to use 2 GPU's with them lined up in the same slots a real MacPro would. ... The problem you've got is the first two PCI slots are 1x and the Mac Pro case only has 5 PCI slots total. In order to fit a ATX mobo you have to either cut away the self (as I did) or cut out the bottom of the case like AquaMac has. Do you have the MOBO already?? Thats how AquaMac did it. ... That still resulting in the GPU being in the second slot. as is ASUS board (like the Gigabyte board) has 2 1xpci for the first two slots. ... You can see there on mine how the shelf has been cut away to allow a full AXT mobo to slot in slightly behind it. ... ... Mine in it's last build state. This is one of AquaMacs latest. read about it HERE. ... Note the dual GFX cards starting in the second slot. thats what you can hope for with your choice of board.
  5. MAC PRO Case Mod

    Check out the AquaMac forums 'AquaMac' has posted diagrams for all the wiring on the front IO panel. Thanks for the kind words over the last few posts. My MacPro is no in bits. all boxed up awaiting shipping to Chilled PC. I've moved to i7 with a 5870. It will probably be re-built (for the 3rd time) in the new new. J.
  6. Mac Pro case mod questions

    With a little modification everything you have listed is possible, There are a few great MacPro mods on here and lots over at the AquaMac forums. Check out my thread HERE. Covers all of your needs. J.
  7. Yet another mac pro mod

    Cool beans, Thanks for the kind words.. I'll keep an eye on your Thread, just holla if you have any questions. Mines in bits again... I'm working on something a little different.. J.
  8. Yet another mac pro mod

    HI, I'm guessing your read my thread? as you've clearly found my photo of the shelf.. With your choice of Motherboard (in fact any ATX X58 board) cutting the shelf isnt the best way forward if you intending on a stock MacPro finish. You see.. the first expansion slot on the X48 board i use is the PCIX slot.. as such the graphics card sits upon the RAM cage just like a real MacPro. You'll find that if you were to cut the shelf the first two slots will be left empty before you get to your GPU. Aqua-Mac tackled this by cutting out a thin strip from the base of the case allowing the board to fit lower lining up the expansion slots you'd still however have the GPU in the second (case) PCI slot. I'm in the middle of moving my MOD to the i7 platform and have gone with the ASUS GENE II M-ATX to retain the aspect of original design. the Aqua-Mac forums cover almost every part the MacPro mod process. Go take a look around. There is a guide there to removing the shelf.. one here too i think... I wrote it. Quickly... you have to remove the locking handle first, then you remove all the screws around the edges. once there all out you can just left it out i think *rattles his brain* or maybe you have to unscrew ALL the screws holding the two plates together then you can remove the top and bottom parts separately. Which plastic tabs are you referring too? if its the one (1) shown in the photo above they are simply stuck on and do nothing without the Apple Motherboard. Good luck. J.
  9. MAC PRO Case Mod

    These kind of comments get to me. Why bother posting them? Nor do I see a reason for them? The case looks great! It isn't the stock look, as I'd already done that.. Now I've combined it with a top of the range water cooling solution. The whole POINT of a mod (see thread title) is to MODIFY a case looks. . . Your posts are off topic and so need deleting. Nor is it finished... If you hate is now.. your gonna really hate it when its done. I don't want a stock Mac Pro (I'd buy a Mac Pro) I have a Mac Pro Mod! Anyone thinking of posting a comment. If its negative then why bother? Constructive criticism is not "If it was your intention to ruin a perfectly good Mac case, then well done you have done a cracking job." Thats just the ramblings of a sad and lonely boy. My Mod no longer runs OSX I run Folding@Home 24/7 and require a GPU client. I'm into overclocking and performance benchmarking I am a PC enthusiast! I love the Mac Pro case and did another first with this Mod, My Quick Silver Hack runs OSX and I'm working on another first using an Apple Cube case. Keep your comments on Topic. J.
  10. MAC PRO Case Mod

    Thanks for your honest opinion I can respect that. Its not finished. I agree I moved away from the Mac Pro look you were correct it was intentional. I had thought of leaving the case as it was and buying a Silverstone for my first water cooling attempt. But this had not been done before, the rad+ fans will be covered with a shroud I've been designing using a spare Mac Pro side door. the intention is to create a clearly DIFFERENT, UNIQUE clean cut Mac Pro case mod. NOT to retain a stock look (I was amongst the first to achieve that). J.
  11. MAC PRO Case Mod

    THE HOW TO: The move to water-cooling. So this should give you an idea of room I've got to play with. The Rad is mounted on the roof of the case externally, the tubes are routed in then out the back side of the case and back in as shown below. Then i have to install the RAM cage, the below image shows how much height from the waterblock the tubing will have to turn around and connect to the next water block. The RAM cage has no back so it will slid in and cover the loop (its very effective at keeping the heat from the GPU away from the CPU. you can see in the below image with the CPU cover (Apple part name) in place it creates a tunnel from front to back with a 120mm Noctua fan at each end. I cant draw with a mouse... or at all even.. but its the idea... It Begins, Chilled PC we're a real star! helping me out loads! I had to split my first lot of items between ChilledPC and WaterCooling UK. Mainly because I'm impatient and didn't want to wait. and I'm still looking over my second order from WaterCooling UK. The Noctua P12 fans I already owned and have been cooling my Case mod since the begining.. I'd used them with a volt mod cable to lower the RPM. The build quality of Noctuas fans blew me away so I stayed with them. HERE: I moved the three cooling my case to the RAD and used three of these in the case. HERE: Once my parts started to arrive I got a little camera giddy and took alot of photos.. The annoying thing with this build was the waiting.. I spent along time picking out and planning what parts to use and had alot of help form the forum member over at Clunk.org and Tom from ChilledPC. At this point I had to turn off my Rig (first time in months as its Folds solid for Custom PC's team). I went withFeser One UV (Blue) as my fluid and i picked out blue as i liked the look my Zalman HSF LED gave the case. I also knew at this point that my fan controller was gonna be glowing so thought it best to stick to the same color. I drew a sketch on the back of a receipt as i needed to get the "HOW" out of my head and onto paper.. I had a hard time explaining the idea to some folks so I drew this in PAINT lame huh.. but it helped. At each red ring the loop exits my case, I wanted a clean fitted look so opted for the bulk heads, with high flow barbs on one end and the rotary elbows on the other I hoped to minimise any negative effects so I went for a 18w Pump. Tom from ChilledPC really helped me out when it came to what waterblocks.. This is my first attempt at a water cooling loop and knew next to nothing! Tom was able to order in anything i wanted and found me these blocks for Northbridge and MOSFETS. Northbridge. MIPS DFI LANparty P35 / X38 / X48 Northbridge Freezer Nickel MOSFETS MIPS DFI LANparty P35 / X38 / X48 Mosfet Freezer Nickel CPU D-Tek FuZion™ v2 Now i went for the D-Tek over the GTZ for one reason.. STOCK! Chilled PC had them in and i was ordering the others so why not.. When i placed my order i also picked up the nozzle kit and paid to have my CPU lapped.. but I didnt use the nozzles nor (although I've paid for it) did i send the CPU to get lapped. I think I'll keep that paid service until i move this rig to i7. I've also lined up the 3x Noctua NF-S12 800rpm fans to replace my current case fans and a bunch of other stuff.. coolant and noise damping for the pump some heat-shrink and cable braid. At this point i needed a RAD! and only two were viable options for me. the ThermoChill PA120.3 and the FESER TFC 360. The WORLD seemed out of stock and I ended up waiting for weeks before i could place an order. The iPhone camera is {censored}! but its all i have so it'll do. The MIPS blocks arrived along with a bunch of other goodies from ChilledPC. the MIPS are great looking! you can really see the craftsmanship. lol sounds like i know what I'm talking about.. These are the first blocks I've ever got my hands on. Just losly thumbed on the barbs and Bitspower 45's for this photo. The reason i got the 45's is the rear 120mm fan in the MacPro (RAM cage) currently had to have the housing cut away to accommodate the PWM heatsink on the Mobo. Without the 45's I'd not be able to tube them. This was VERY correct and even with the 45's I still had to cut away some more. LOL... It got to this point and my heart skipped a beat! I panicked as my bank was taking a SLAPPING! Below is almost everything i bought for this single loop and a aftermarket cooler for the GPU. I went with the ThermoChill PA120.3. I did this because i sent Simon at Thermochill an email.. its was the last part I needed and I just couldnt find stock! so i went direct to the manufacturer. I sent him an email explaining what i was doing and asked why i couldnt find one of there products in stock anywhere! I told him how it was a toss up between there PA serrirs or a FESER 360 and gave me this response. That made me smile and i liked the idea i was buying British! It begins... I gutted my MacPro case (needs a good clean) and rigged up my PC on my desktop using an mobo tray i once wrapped in Akasa sound matting and screwed my first Hack to the wall with it. lol... i used to have this screwed to my wall using a bunch of parts i found in my attic! that was my first Hackintosh. And here we have my gutted totally empty MacPro case it never been so gutted. Next it was time to work on the bulkheads. Things are moving along... Choose this fan controller due to its Watt per channel over the Zalman i was eyeing up, it was alot deeper due to the heatsinks on the board so made it a little tricky to find somewhere to fit it. My case sits on my desktop just to the left of my monitor so I thought there would be a good place (lol... the only) to mount it. I measured up and pulled out my Dremel. Dropped it into place and put on its knobs to see how it fits... Not bad huh.. each one of them lights up blue, so that should light up the total underneath of my case. I'll be mounted it to the front of my case using the raisers it was using to attach to its 5 1/2" bay mount. I then used J-B Weld to fit it in place. Once fitted I am now able to remove the controller by its screws :-p. I left the J.B Weld set over night.. and... sorted! that isnt going anywhere! ... ... Once the RAD turned up i was so supprised by it SIZE!!! I'd never seen these rads or any watercooling component for that mater. ... The holes were not threaded which made mounting my Fans using the Feser shrouds a bugger. so i bought a tap and die set. ... The Feser shrouds although great looking are NOT greatly put together.. I could not push the supplied bolts through all the holes on ANY of the three i bought.. I had to drill them out. ... .. It took rather a while working out where the holes needed to exactly go but I'm VERY pleased with the end result. ... ... ... ... All bulkheads, elbows and barbs fitted (not tightly) ... Again this isnt the final fit but its a great fit. ... I gave the fan controller a quick test run as i HAD just hacked it up to mod fit it.. I'd have been gutted if I hadnt of worked when i came to turn it ALL on for the first time. ... The black tubing here was just some test cut pieces. Next I had to look at fitting my RAD, I had some problems here.. if you look at my doodle you'll see I grossly under estimated the length / size of the rad. The Triple RAD was to bit to fit between to two handles of the MacPro case. but I had some ideas of how to get around this. Make my own raisers. . . I measured out the top holes for mounting the Rad. ... Then I used some M4 threaded bar and some Alu tubing to make some external mounts. I bought some hard drive rubber washers to help absorb any sound from the Fans. ... Then I put the gasket on the Rad and started attaching my fans. ... Then I dropped it into place upon the top of my case and bolted it firmly. its a great fit. no wobble (well it takes some force for to move and i doubt the RPM on those fans will shift it.). I bought a Corsair 850 watt PSU as i hope to upgrade my GFX in the summer and left my trusty 620 watt Hiper wouldn't be enough to power a flagship GPU come JULY. So once that turned up I started to tighten everything up and look at leak testing. I ... ... I stripped my Motherboard down and applied my MX-2 to the CPU, NB and a tiny bit on each PWM. First attempt at tubing. ... All tubing, ready to be dropped into the case and connected to the loop. ... Overview with the mobo mounted. ... Hooked up and ready for coolant!! ... I double treble checked everything a littered the inside of my case with kitchen roll. Fingers crossed. Well... It worked YAY!! (DUH) All leaks were addressed mainly hose-clips being tooooo tight and slight to high on the barb. The last bits of air trapped in the Rad and bubbling were removed by gently (ish) SHAKING!!! the case... heres some photos. ... ... ... ... Here it is. . . A view of the loop. (Res) . . . Water blocks (cant really see them huh) . . . . . . . . . . . . Just gotta hope I've not knocked anything lose when fitting the remaining hardware.. Would hate to wake up to a puddle. So temps.... I dont really know.. lol.. the gpu is great! 51-55 underload now (folding) used to be 78-80 so thats a result! Everest reads my CPU at 29-31 idle (ish) thats at 4.11ghz and I've not seen it break 35 yet. I'll do some real testing soon. Its all about how well it handles heat to further i push it. I'lll try for 4.2- 4.3- 4.5 and beyond (if I'm super lucky in a few days). I'd love to clean up the Alu and have it photographed professionally good lighting and a white backdrop. It just looks fab! What do you think? J.
  12. Mac Pro Hack

    I know that problem... check out my thread.. your questions will be answered... with the design layout of your board you'd be better cutting out the bottom like Aqua-Mac you could cut the self like me buy you'd lose possible future SLI/Crossfire options. J.
  13. The most perfect mini Hack Pro ever

    I'm currently working on something smiler.. Still in the planning stage, you actually answered a few questions for me.. what PSU and GFX options.. thanks for that. I'm trying to build a Mini-ITX hack into a Apple Cube case.. using its original internal frame to mount the guts. I'll be very interested to hear how your turns out.. the mini Ninja is a great find! J.
  14. Perfect donor case for the Mac Pro Mod

    Great idea... similar to the G5 solution... but it wouldnt work on a MacPro... its too big upside down and too tall. top to bottom would clash with the MacPro shelf. Maybe some heavy mods to the doner case first and you might get it in.. J.
  15. MAC PRO Case Mod

    Okay then people, Sorry I've not yet uploaded any type of guide.. I've been silly busy then stupidly poor and time ran away from me.. so.. I thought I'd do i quick photo guide from start to finish. All images were taken with my iPhone.. so they really could be better. STEP1: The MacPro Case. STEP2: Basic mods I started off with a M-ATX motherboard as you will see i later fitted a full sized ATX. I marked out around the rear IO and had a quick test with the dremal.. looking back i wish i had done this differently but i just wanted to get it built. The bottome right is marker pen, not a slip up. I attached some edging to hide the sharp edges. STEP3: The Guts. As i mentioned i picked a M-ATX mobo the DS2R is a popular choice for the MacPro case. I followed suit as Aqua-Mac had alot of success with this mobo. There is a Hiper 620watt PSU and a ATX to ATX extension cable. A must for the PSU ATX cable is too short to reach the mobo, it also allows for the front power switch to be wired up. I cut the back out and removed the top fan bracket to allow the PSU to fit. (was a bit of a nightmare) I bought a kettle lead and socket from maplins, then had a fella from work machine this bit to allow for more room for the PSU.. it was also the quickest and easiest option at the time. STEP4: Fitting the motherboard. The MacPro had all the stock mounts for the Apple motherboard. these just popped off and come away clean.. they are the perfect hight for the motherboard (duh) so again.. was the simple option. I removed all the mounts in the way of the M-ATX and attached them to the mobo. I'm missing a couple photos here... I then used JB Cold Weld cleaned off the points in the case and sat the mobo inside. used a GFX card to hold it in place and then left it for a couple days.. (only needs about 12-18 hours) STEP5: The Stock look. Aqua-mac nailed the MacPro case mod long before I attempted it. He did such a great job i just had to give it a go! I wanted from the offset to keep the inside looking as stock as possible. This ment getting my hands on the bellow parts. WeFixMac is a UK ebay store and they are just ace! I bought the case from them for little over £100. They didnt list the below parts.. I sent them a message and they got me the bits i needed! not cheap mind! the RAM cage and front fans were £50 each and the CPU cover was £25. These parts needed modding to fit with the M-ATX mobo and my HSF. below is the Mobo fitted and the front fans in place. The RAM cage and CPU cover needed to be trimmed and parts removed in order to fit correctly. yeah... thats a laggy band holding it in place whilst the glue set. The front fans were 4-pin connections and i lacked the knowledge at the time to put 3-pin fan connections on them and how to reduce the fan speed. so... I bought 3 x Noctua NF-P12 120mm Silent Case Fans and fitted them instead. Here you can see how the ATX cable was routed and where the power switch is wired in. So... I put that all back together and ended up with this. That ran great for a while! I was disappointed with the over-clocking abilities of the M-ATX mobo and my 7800GT was aging.. so i bought a BFG 9800GTX OC on release day (great card! just wish i had hung fire 4 months) i actually ordered the basic 9800GTX but OCUK sent me the OC! i love those guys! :-p fitted the 9800GTX and was flying high! STEP5: M-ATX to ATX and.... yeah.... i blew it up! the DS2R died! and took my Crucial Ballistix Tracer 8500 RAM with it! RMA'd the RAM (although they sent me back the non tracer RAM requires a lower voltage.. so i was happy) and started looking at a new mobo.. at this point Aqua-Mac unleashed his MacPro mk2! a great piece of work! he went for the stock look (like to think i had a little something to do with that :-) ) but blew us all away with an ATX motherboard fitted in a Mac Pro.. With the disappointing OC results from my DS2R and a E8200 CPU just wanting to be run at 3.8ghz I thought I'd once again follow suit. this time.. I thought I'd go with DFI and in order to retain the stock look I'd wanted all along i went about it a different way. Aqua-mac fitted his ATX by removing a thin piece of the base (from the case) in order to line up the the PCIe slots to allow for 2 graphics cards.. he had to do this because of the mobo layout. it also ment that his first graphic card slot was the second expansion slot on the mobo.. meaning the GFX card did not fit flush against the RAM cage as it does in the Mac Pro. i wanted to retain that look. on the plus side for Aqua-Mac he'll be able to drop a X58 mobo in his case with no further mods are they share the same layout as his ASUS. i just gotta keep my fingers crossed. so.... I removed the top self. measured up and removed a part of it.. allowing my new DFI mobo to fit in behind it with obstructing anything else. I cut that out with a jigsaw... you can see that i can still use the first 2 drive bays with the apple supplied SATA connectors. i can also still use the second two bays using right-angled SATA cables. I used a old ATX asus p4 board (used on my first hackintosh) to line up the mobo mounts and once again attached them using JB cold weld. I had alot of issues with dust! i live with a bunch of friends and we just dont clean! lads will be lads! so my case just sucked it all in.. so i bought two of these and fitted them. I went with a DFI Lan Party LT X48-T2R it was the best X48 motherboard available with the layout i required and DDR2. So swapped out the old for the new and all was well. i also loved the separate sound card. i problem i had with the DS2R was my rear IO cut out was a little too low and so i had to cut down the speaker cable to fit it. this way my rear IO is plenty roomy and the daughter board is great! With the shelf cut out slightly i was able to route my cable alot better as you can see its not to shabby. I found this little ThermalRight SLI cooler to be great on the southbridge. And there it is! almost complete... but will it ever trully be.. X58 round the corner! and i'm eyeing up a 280GTX. I got back in touch with my ppl at WeFixMac and they hooked me up with a faulty Mac Pro 1000 watt PSU... £45 its the most ive paid for a little piece of alu... but completes the stock look. So thats it... for now.. All in depth info can be found over at Aqua-Mac Forums. we have the best bunch of MacPro modders over there that are producing some really great work. My next steps are simple.. more storage. i hope to use all 4 bays with Samsung SpinPoint F1 1TB drives and a single Western Digital VelociRaptor 300GB sat in a Zalman ZM-2HC2 Silent Hard Disk Heatpipe Cooler above my DVD drive. Hope you like it. share your thoughts. Joe.
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