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Leopard 10.5.2 on a Toshiba A208-S5804


puppy6789
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I wanted to write this topic to hopefully help some other people who, like myself, are curiuos and want to learn about the Mac OS X. Like everyone else here, I want to stongly recommend that if you really like Leopard, then go buy a legal copy or a real Mac.

 

Here's the guide that I've compiled with about 1 week's time put in. However, if you follow it pretty closely, you can get one of these up and running in about 2 hours (if you have all the software downloaded in advance of course). And, there are still two things that I haven't been able to get working: sleep/hibernate and keyboard (function key) controls. So, if anyone's got any good ideas on how to get those two things done on this model, please contribute! If they work, I'll append the guide with the additional steps and everyone can benefit!

 

And, just so everyone knows the cost here, I was able to pick up this laptop for about $600 (with tax) and got the 2 gb ram upgrade (max supported) for about $70 more. Addtionally, I wouldn't have been able to do this without the help of all the people here that have contribued to this project. Most (if not all) the information here is available if you serach the boards; I just wanted to do a concise guide that may help someone out with their project.

 

Here we go:

 

- Burn the Kalyway 10.5.1 image at SLOW speed (e.g., x2 or x1)

 

- Make sure you have the recovery media (you never know when you need it!)

 

- Make a listing of the critical parts that you’ll need drivers for later (one reason I HAD to recover mine after having started…):

 

o Wired LAN – Marvell Yukon 88E8039 PCI-E

 

o Wireless LAN – Realtek RTL8187B 802.11g USB 2.0 network card (internalized)

 

o Modem: Toshiba software modem (agree driver)

 

o Mouse: Synaptics PS/2 Port touchpad

 

o Display: Mobile Intel 965 Express chipset family

 

- Boot from the DVD (hint: don’t change the actual boot options; just use F12 and boot off the DVD that one time) and start the installer with NO other options

 

- Go get something to drink while the installer loads (takes 5-10 minutes)

 

- Pick the installation language and click on the arrow

 

- When the next screen comes up, go to the “Utilities” menu and load “Disk Utility”

 

- Click on the root of the hard drive (not the volumes) and erase the entire drive (NOTE: if you get an error, highlight the different partitions and use the “Unmount” function); when you erase, make sure you pick “Mac (Journaled)” and give it a simple name with no spaces)

 

- Now go to the partition section, choose one (1) partition, re-type your simple (no space) name and then click on the “Options” button at the bottom of the screen; choose “GUID” as the partition type and then click ok

 

- Click on the “Apply” button and proceed with the partitioning; once that’s done, close the Disk Utility and the installation will continue

 

- Click on “Continue” and “Agree” when all the license stuff comes up; when you get to the section on where to install the operating system, click on the big icon which should have the simple no-space name you choose when you partitioned the drive; click on “Continue”

 

- On this last screen that comes up before the install begins, click on the “Customize” button in the lower left-hand corner

 

- In the customization section, expand the third-party drivers, then only one you’ll want is the sound card driver (AZALIA_out); the only other thing that should be selected in here is the boot-loader (which is GUID in this example)

 

- Click on “Install” to get the install started; right after that when it starts the installation screen, make sure you click on the “Skip” button when it starts to check your installation media

 

- Go get two more drinks (this part takes 10-15 minutes), but don’t wander off too far…. You have to be there when it reboots!

 

- When it reboots, hit any key when Darwin first starts up to access to boot loader options

 

- Execute the following commands:

 

o –v –s (for your boot options)

 

o /sbin/fsck –fy (forces a check on the root volume) (takes a few minutes to run the check)

 

o /sbin/mount –uw / (mounts the root hard drive)

 

o Touch /var/db/.AppleSetupDone (stops the infinite setup loop after the OS starts for the first time)

 

o Passwd (command to set the root password)

 

o [type your password twice when prompted]

 

o Cd /System/Library/Extensions (change into the Extensions subdirectory)

 

o Rm –R AppleIntelIntegrated.* (forces the removal of all the integrated Intel components, which are usually what screws up the display)

 

o Rm –R AppleIntelGMA*.* (forces the removal of other drivers that don’t work for this laptop)

 

o Exit (you may have to type it a few times before the system actually starts to boot)

 

- Make sure you plug in an external monitor as your native display won’t work at this point

 

- Log into the GUI when prompted (root and your password)

 

- It should start up good and you’ll be able to hear sound from the Setup Assistant as well

 

- Kill the setup assistant (force it to close as well by right-clicking on the icon in the dock after you close it)

 

- Insert the CD with the proper natit.kext file and then copy that file over to the /System/Library/Extensions directory (I used the oner from Paulicat that he did on 11-12-07)

 

- Open a terminal prompt (just use spotlight if you don’t know where it is), and execute the following:

 

o Cd /System/Library/Extensions/

 

o Chmod –R 755 natit.kext

 

o Chown root:wheel natit.kext

 

o Exit

 

o Exit

 

- Close the terminal window and request a system reboot; while the system’s rebooting, get your external monitor unplugged so the internal display can come on

 

- If all is good, your laptop display should fire up with the GUI login; go ahead and log in J

 

- There are two options you can use to (in some cases) improve performance as well; open a terminal session and type the following:

 

o Sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/com.apple.windowserver Quartz2DExtremeEnabled –boolean true

 

o Sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/com.apple.windowserver Compositor –dict deferredUpdates 0

 

o if either one of these cause problems, you can always reboot in safe mode (-v –s from Darwin startup) and just enable the opposite of each expression (Boolean false and deferredUpdates 1 respectively)

 

- the simpler methods for getting the wired Ethernet adapter working never seemed to work, but a slightly more complicated method seemed to yield better results: (be VERY careful entering here)

 

o get a terminal session running

 

o type in “cd /System/Library/Extensions”

 

o type in “chmod –R 755 IONetworkingFamily.kext”

 

o open (browse) your MacDrive, open System, open Library, and then open Extensions

 

o scroll down until you find “IONetworkingFamily.kext”; right-click on there and left-click on “Show Package Contents”

 

o in the new windows, open contents, open plugins, and then show package contents on “appleyukon2.kext”

 

o in the new windows, open contents, and then open Info.plist in TextEdit (before you do that, you should probably make a copy of the file just in case you screw it up!)

 

o in the Info.plst file, you need to find four sections (8053, 8055, 8061 and 8062); in each of those sub-sections, there is a line which says “<key>IOPCIPrimaryMatch</key>” and underneath there is a string which represents the specific device ID for each of those devices; for each of those strings, they must be changed to read “<string>0x435311ab</string>”

 

o close TextEdit and save the change to the file when it asks you

 

o now in your terminal window, execute the following commands:

 

§ cd /System/Library/Extensions/IONetworkingFamily.kext/Contents/PlugIns/AppleYukon2.kext/Contents

 

§ chown –R root:wheel /System/Library/Extensions

 

§ chmod –R 755 /System/Library/Extensions/IONetworkingFamily.kext

 

§ cd /System/Library/Extensions/IONetworkingFamily.kext

 

§ cd Contents

 

§ cd PlugIns

 

§ kextload AppleYukon2.kext

 

§ rm /System/Library/Extensions.mkext

 

§ kextcache –k /System/Library/Extensions

 

o in theory, that should activate the NIC immediately (you can tell if it’s plugged in and the lights come on); however, I have found that it usually doesn’t work until the system is rebooted

 

o if something has been done incorrectly, the system WILL go into a panic trap here in which case you can boot in safe mode, delete the modified Info.plist file, replace it with the original Info.plist file, and then fix the permissions

 

- now, if you’ve made it past all that, you actually have a working 10.5.1 installation with sound, wired Ethernet, and good graphics; so, now you’re ready to install the 10.5.2. upgrade (of course, you have to download it first and burn it out to CD just to be safe)

 

- once you’ve got it burned out, get the CD, get it inserted into the CD drive; before you go too far, make a folder on the root of the hard drive and make a copy of your entire /System/Library/Extensions directory (in case you’ve got to restore some of the kexts from their original state)

 

o check and see if there is a file in your /Extensions directory called “AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement.kext”; if so, open a command terminal (leave it OPEN during the install) and execute the following:

 

§ sudo –s

 

§ [root password]

 

§ While sleep 1; do rm –

 

§ Rf /System/Library/Extensions/AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement.kext; done

 

o Run the installer package

 

o Upon completion of the installation, DO NOT REBOOT; go back to your terminal window

 

o Hit control-c to stop the script from running

 

o Type in the following: “sudo nano /System/InstallAtStartup/scripts/1”

 

o Scroll down until you find a line that says /System/Library/Extensions/Dont Steal Mac OS X.kext” (don’t panic if you don’t find it, some versions of Kalyway don’t have it)

 

o Replace it with the following: “/System/Library/Extensions/dsmos.kext” (if you see that line there already, then you’re already fixed; just hit control-x at this point)

 

o After you’ve replaced the line, hit control-o, and then “Enter”

 

o Hit control-X

 

o Type exit until you see “Processes Completed” and then close the terminal window

 

- At this point, you’re ready to reboot. Mine actually rebooted by itself the after the first reboot, but I think this is normal; still, if you’re worried, reboot with the –v switch so you can watch for potential panic traps

 

- Your wired NIC should still be functional at this point; however, if it is not, get a copy from your backup Extensions directory of the IONetworkingFamily.kext and replace the existing one in the /System/Library/Extensions directory (don’t forget to chmod and chown to fix the permissions)

 

- Now to get your wireless NIC working, which is a Realtek 8187b USB 2.0 integrated adapter; I personally had A LOT of problems with this part, so if anyone has any other suggestions or advice that can make this go easier, PLEASE comment so that others can learn from this

 

o Go to Realtek’s site and download BOTH of the drivers for the 8187 wirelress NIC, which are the B and L variants (one is version 1117 and the other is version 1309)

 

o Try installing the 1309 revision first, as a lot of users have reported some success with this driver; install the package, let it reboot, and then reboot again; if you’re successful here (I wasn’t) you’ll be notified that you have a new Ethernet interface available, at which point you can go to the Networking section in System Preferences and configure the new interface

 

o If you weren’t successful, run the uninstall script from the downloaded 1309 package, and then repeat the installation process for the version 1117 package (along with the two reboots)

 

o If you weren’t successful at this point (I wasn’t… I know, recurring theme here), edit the Info.plist file inside the Realtek application driver package (\System\Library\Extensions\RTL8187B.kext\Contents\Info.plist); find the value of “33161” and change it over to “33175”; save the file, close out everything and reboot again

 

o If you STILL weren’t successful (yes… you guessed right… I wasn’t either); resign yourself to buying a working USB wireless NIC; I personally opted for a Belkin F5D9050 because it was reasonably priced, and there were a lot of notes in here on success in getting it working correctly (don’t worry… there is a silver lining to this story!)

 

o When I went to install the drivers (before even unwrapping the adapter itself) as the reboot started, a little message came up saying that my RealTek card was found!!!!!!

 

o I rebooted, and was able to successfully configure my 8187B as a standard Ethernet interface (yes, it does NOT show up as an airport adapter), and I’m now able to use my internal wireless adapter

 

o NOTE: as I stated at the beginning of this step, I do NOT know why this worked correctly, so please leave comments with your thoughts on this matter; however, for those that are frustrated with their internal 8187B adapter, go to Belkin’s web site, get the 10.4 Mac drivers for the F5D9050 card, and try this (with your 8187B drivers still installed of course) and it might work for you as well!

 

o One additional note on usage: occasionally, as you install new software, you may not auto-connect to your wireless network upon rebooting; however, if you just click on the RealTek utility (the little crab on the dock), you can view the available wireless networks, select one, and then press “Connect” and you’ll be back on

 

- The next step was the touchpad hack; this is defiantly one of those things that is strictly a preference as to if you want it working or not, as some will like it and some will despise it; so, just make sure you keep backup copies of anything you work with here so that you can revert you settings if you don’t like the outcome of this

 

o Get yourself a USB keyboard and mouse in case something gets really screwed up; all the changes you’re making here will only directly affect the keyboard and trackpad on the laptop itself

 

o Make a backup copy of /System/Library/Extensions/ApplePS2Controller.kext to save your a** (in case something goes wrong or you don’t the outcome of this fix)

 

o Download and extract the full install package: http://rapdishare.com/files/93582903/2fingerscroll.zip.html

 

o Run the ALPS Glidepad Driver.pkg (provided by deamobile on post http://forum.insanelymac.com/index.php?showtopic=47272&st=0)

 

o Install the drivers (ALPS) and FFScroll and reboot when asked to do so; when you reboot, your trackpad will probably be very difficult to control, so that USB mouse may come in handy at this point J

 

o Also, after the first reboot, you’ll get and error about FFScroll file permissions; just select “Fix” and then reboot again (by the way, doesn’t your new system boot A LOT faster than Vista???? J)

 

o Copy com.apple.driver.ApplePS2Trackpad.plist (in the installation package) to /users/[your user name]/Library/Preferences AND to /Library/Preferences (if you’re running as “root” (bad, bad boy), the first location is actually {please someone fill that one in for me!!}; the file has to be in both locations or it really just won’t work correctly

 

o Open the terminal and enter the following (you have to do this any time you change the parameters in the file):

 

§ Sudo killall -9 FSScrollDaemon

 

§ Sudo /usr/local/bin/FFScrollDaemon

 

o Go into System Preferences, and FFScroll and you can see the 2-finger scrolling is enabled; then go back to System Preferences and click on the trackpad tab and set the tracking speed to mid-way

 

o Copy the FFScrollDaemon DIRECTORY from the installation package over to /Library/StartupItems, which will allow the FFScrollDaemon to start automatically when you reboot

 

o Now, if the scrolling isn’t to your liking (too fast, or not enough) you can edit the value of “zAcceptThreshold” in com.apple.driver.Appleps2Trackpad.plist (in BOTH places and don’t forget to kill and restart the FSScrollDaemon afterwards)

 

§ If you’re scrolling all over the place and the trackpad doesn’t move the mouse, try a higher value (90-130)

 

§ If you’re not getting any scrolling at all, try a lower value (50-75)

 

- When it comes to the battery meter on your status bar, I have to admit that I cheated a little here. If you go to the site http://www.orange-carb.org/SBM/ there is a little utility there called SlimBatteryMonitor which does REALLY good as it shows percentage and time, charging status, and everything that we all like. And, it’s freeware! However, if you still want your real battery monitor to work, you can always search around the forums and there’s plenty of guides and suggestions on how to get it up and running (mine finally worked, although it seems to take a LONG time to change from “Calculating” over to the actual battery time)

 

- USB-to-Serial adapters – this is one of those topics for people needing a serial port (like myself, since I need console access to routers, switches, firewalls, etc.). If this is something you don’t need, just bypass this section.

 

o Plug in your USB-to-Serial adapter, and check the product ID (found in the USB section)

 

o Browse over to http://osx-pl2303.sourceforge.net , which matches my device ID that I found in the first step

 

o Get the .dmg file from there and install it (requires a reboot)

 

o Before your machine reboots, go ahead and plug your adapter in, and specify verbose boot mode (-v) just to watch for any problems on the reboot

 

o After you log into the GUI, you should be notified of a new network connection, which you can view from the network settings screen; apply your changes there and continue

 

o Now, go to http://www.gelhaus.net/cgi-bin/showpage.py?cocoa/+quickterm.html and download the 1.01 .dmg file; install it and you’re up and running with a working terminal emulator!!

 

- TFTP server (GUI) – this is just a step for people like me who would rather a GUI interface for the server rather than the command line interface. Just go to http://mac.softpedia.com/progDownload/TFTP-Server-Download-3367.html , unzip the file and then install from there…. Nice and easy!

 

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  • 4 months later...

I have a slightly different model toshiba than you. I almost have the video driver working properly except that the refresh frequency seems to be overrunning the video. Is there a way to set the video to the lowest setting before booting so that I can change the display resolution in the GUI until I can find one that works? thanks for any help that you are able to provide.

 

Cheers!

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