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Project AnodizeD: G5 mod


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#21
Razzle_Dazzle

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Mar. 9 and Mar. 10
 
So I decide while I wait for my order for Lowes to arrive I would work on the PSU. 
 
I am still debating myself on wheather or not I should cut the line short
kkme.jpg
I "Marked" the area of which each color wire will sit. Black is negative, Orange is +3.3, Red is +5, Yellow is +12, Green is PSU On, Gray is PG (Powegood), Purple is VBS (virtual battery system), Blue is -12 
spx2.jpg
 
59zx.jpg
 
Well that is it for now till I get my tools that I order from Lowes. I went ahead and rush order a set of multipurpose T shank blade for my craftman jigsaw and as well added some circular metal cutting disc for my dremel tool.  
 
Well today I got my order in the mail :) and went right to work
 
First time using a jigsaw.. I know shameful but I did decent I also bent the area :) looks great
8l61.jpg
zx7p.jpg
 
After drilling my hole I went ahead and did a test fit... :/ It's way off... But that is fine I can fix it tomorrow before vinyl. 
4v13.jpg
 
I went ahead and did my drilling and fitting of the new PSU cover. 
bqsg.jpg
 
I am still debating whether to cut the whole block for the Power cable or drilling the holes out for the cables to fit through. Yeah I don't have a stable hand right now.. Had a whole day of cutting and filling I don't work well tired.. 
1bvh.jpg
 
So a step closer to finishing the build and a step closer to building it all together. 
 
I am most likely going to back light the PSU cover as well as the mother board tray.. I want to fit it together before doing the Back I/O panel as well as I need to work on the sheet metal need more practice using the jigsaw before I can do a more decent cut for the sheet metal. Speaking off I want to use the original "G5" logo and will be squeezing that in some where...


#22
Fabius Bile

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According to you, the PSU with the fan not upper but in front, he can have a thermal problems?



#23
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According to you, the PSU with the fan not upper but in front, he can have a thermal problems?

 

No, the fan can be in any position. I used the fan originally from the PSU that was already there instead of adapting the fan over the PSU. The important thing is the air flow direction.... I will have to draw up what I mean to diagram but the air directional flow is important. The front fan pulls air through the PSU and around the heat sink -> .. And the fan over head does  the same effect only it is pushing air V downwards and the air is being pushed -> outward. It is a more direct air flow, But as long as air is passing through the heat sink and pushing air out it will be fine. You just want cool air to circulate around the heat sink to cool it down as the Mosfet gets hot as it directs power but that is more of an electronic understanding. 



#24
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In this direction?

 

lcqba.jpg

 

The fans extract the hot air off the psu case?



#25
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In this direction?

 

lcqba.jpg

 

The fans extract the hot air off the psu case?

In the other direction but yes the fan pulls cool air through the case, it runs through the heat sink gathering the heat and pushing it out the back end. A fan on top will have the same effect



#26
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This is how the front fan direction would look like pulling air and pushing it through the PSU board. Directing cool air around and through the heatsink gathering hot air and pushing it out through the back.

 

Air_flow.jpg

 

 

This how a fan over the top would work. It is basically the same thing either way. 

Air_flow_top_fan.jpg

 

 

I just prefer personally to use the fan already in the case. 



#27
Fabius Bile

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I understand.
Me too i want to reuse the original cpu fans.
You can testing the PSU temp. in this version?
Because in the Italian forum where I write, tell me that if i do so, the UPS gets too hot.



#28
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I understand.
Me too i want to reuse the original cpu fans.
You can testing the PSU temp. in this version?
Because in the Italian forum where I write, tell me that if i do so, the UPS gets too hot.

The PSU usually have a cut off temp sensor that shut down the unit before it over heats and blows a component. I do not know if the PSU I bought has that but I will try it out once I load things on it like Lights and other hard ware. The placement of the PC can also effect the cooling of the unit. For instant if you have the Tower in a corner where there is no cool air flowing it will start to recycle the warm air it blows out leading to overheating. As well as if there is not to many sufficient fans to cool the hardware you will get random failure. The tower is massive about as big as a server or a gaming tower with a lot of air vent's which will help to allow air flow to pass through. 

 

The original PSU fan are powerful for it's size as well it is a little noisy I cut off the fan control line ( the yellow one) and just loaded straight 12volt (Red one) on both fans.



#29
Fabius Bile

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You have connected the 2 fans at the PSU pin, right?

I tried it myself, and the fan spinning very slow, instead if connecting with a molex the fan is spinning very fast.
It's possible because the PSU is not connected to an PC, but at the PSU tester?

 

Fan connected with a molex:

http://tinypic.com/p...=8#.UyPWC4WdaUk

 

Fan connected with the original PSU fan connection:

http://tinypic.com/p...=8#.UyPWZIWdaUk



#30
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You have connected the 2 fans at the PSU pin, right?

I tried it myself, and the fan spinning very slow, instead if connecting with a molex the fan is spinning very fast.
It's possible because the PSU is not connected to an PC, but at the PSU tester?

 

Fan connected with a molex:

http://tinypic.com/p...=8#.UyPWC4WdaUk

 

Fan connected with the original PSU fan connection:

http://tinypic.com/p...=8#.UyPWZIWdaUk

 

`No your PSU has a thermal sensor when your PSU is cool the PSU board gives the fan only 5v till it starts to heat up in which the board gives the fan 7v then 12v to cool the unit down. If you run the PSU for awhile you will notice it will start to speed up as the unit is under load. You can if you want to by pass it all and run the fan with the molex internally. 



#31
Fabius Bile

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No, i don't want bypass the thermal control, because the fans is very noisy at full speed.
I prefer to leave the fans thermo controlled.

According to you, add two other fans in extraction, it is superfluous, or is a good idea?



#32
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No, i don't want bypass the thermal control, because the fans is very noisy at full speed.
I prefer to leave the fans thermo controlled.

According to you, add two other fans in extraction, it is superfluous, or is a good idea?

If you want to go that route you can it will tunnel the air better allowing a more control air flow through the PSU. 

I  myself was thinking of adding an additional two other fan to help the air flow but I will do that later if I feel the air flow isn't as good in the case. 



#33
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Ok.



#34
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Mar. 14 and Mar. 18
 
So I order a couple things from eBay, I went ahead and order 25 feet of white PET sleeve for the hackintosh as well as set of female molex connection and the adapter for the 50 pin to SATA for the optical drive. 
 
If the sleeving is of good quality I will order more from the same seller. I still have to order another set of grey silver sleeving  and black sleeving later on. 
 
While I wait for the sleeving to show up I well start to work on the sheet metal.
 
One problem that I did not for see is the factor of the sheet metal being to bridal to bend
7bhs.jpg
 
After cutting and filling I was hoping I can do my 90 degree bend what ended up happening is a complete break..Bummmer 
624e.jpg
 
So I went back to the drawing board and decide instead of doing this the "hard way" why not do two plate one sit on the other. 
 
The process of measuring and then cutting and drilling took a couple days of course family and client comes first. 
 
The first plate is already set on the case, I forgot to take picture of the process 
 
but for the most part here is the very top
q8ga.jpg
1pkx.jpg
 
This is all for today, will get back to it after I spend some quality time with family.
 
 
Well today came the sleeving :) Ohhhhh boy!
 
t49y.jpg
 
The sleeving is not very good quality but you pay for what you get. In the end I might have to wrap or paint the wire before sliding on the sleeving. 
 
If you notice also I went ahead and started to lace the cable :) first attempt took me 4 hours just on this alone but well worth the practice with time. 
 
I will continue to work with the sleeving I plan on using Teflon for two main reason, 1. it will mask the color from bleeding through and 2. It will help slide the sleeving over more easily. I will practice with my next set of cables tomorrow. 
 
I still have to do the PSU cover but I am personally debating myself  if I want to go the route I plan with the connection sticking out on top or just the connection for the molex and SATA and PCI-e and have the x4 connection and the x24 connection sliding right out through but sleeved. 


#35
Fabius Bile

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Good sleeving :P



#36
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Good sleeving :P

lol thanks XP I am going to get more of that silver grey sleeving so I can do the Power supply and the x4 northern bridge cable. 


Mar. 19
 
After letting the JB weld cure for 24 hour I went ahead and tried out my slot drive cover. 
 
I know not the best cut but it won't matter it will be covered. 
m0h8.jpg
 
The outer peice fit's beautifully on the case. No fus and no problem just fit in properly :)
rjdf.jpg
 
I have yet to address the front I/O panel jack
r1wl.jpg
 
I have decide where I will place both my USB and my audio/mic
35qt.jpg
 
I was thinking of getting a card reader but have thought it twice instead I will play it safe and make it very simple. Just USB I might look for acouple USB 3.0 to use instead. 
pfys.jpg
 
I am glad I did a couple test fit of the slot drive before deciding to JB weld the front on and drilling out the hole for the slot. 
 
The drive just fits a little tight in the center. I must address this
teo0.jpg
 
The front face sits right but the slot does not :/ its a little to high again will have to fix this by cutting off the bottom of the sheet metal already JB welded to the case
ivdi.jpg
 
One great thing is alignment is spot on :) even if it it sits high the side align it properly. 
8jmm.jpg
 
Well I will do a cut tomorrow to address the problem where the slot sits and then drill out the holes and file it down for the slot hole. 
 
I am waiting for my order for the adapter on optical drive as well as acouple set of female molex pin.
 
I want to redo the tray slot :/ rethinking on how the board will sit, though I like the raised easy to lift handle I didn't think about how much the bend took from the actual tray and will redo this once more as well as paint the tray and then cover or leave as is?
 
Will order a 25 feet of silver grey sleeving and redo my line as well as save so I can do the power cable and the x4 northern bridge cable. 
 
I still want to back light the motherboard tray as well as the PSU cover. 
 
I need to as well do the back end of the case and add the I/O back panel.


#37
Fabius Bile

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Very nice, but why do not you let the original aspect of the G5 front?
For my G5, i have ordered the Laser Hive kit for mobo tray and back panel.



#38
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Very nice, but why do not you let the original aspect of the G5 front?
For my G5, i have ordered the Laser Hive kit for mobo tray and back panel.

I decide to change a few things. The USB 2.0 is nice and necessary but having just one USB 2.0 is not enough. My friend and his wife each owns a iphone 5 and an ipad air so having just one front USB 2.0 and a Firewire is not going to help. I decide with the case donation by my other friends for the project to take both USB 2.0 to give him a space for two connection. I might even plan on using USB 3.0 if supported by Mac OS. I wanted to also add the addition of a card reader but thought it through and I know he will not even use that so I throw that out of the way. I might end up doing is making it a quad USB 2.0 and a dual USB 3.0 for 6 USB connection total front. I am also planning on making a audio/mic port for him.  

 

I am glad you finally were abile to buy the motherboard tray and the back panel. As soon as i am done with the front panel I will start on the back using my ATX board as a stand in for the mATX. 



#39
Fabius Bile

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I decide to change a few things. The USB 2.0 is nice and necessary but having just one USB 2.0 is not enough. My friend and his wife each owns a iphone 5 and an ipad air so having just one front USB 2.0 and a Firewire is not going to help. I decide with the case donation by my other friends for the project to take both USB 2.0 to give him a space for two connection. I might even plan on using USB 3.0 if supported by Mac OS. I wanted to also add the addition of a card reader but thought it through and I know he will not even use that so I throw that out of the way. I might end up doing is making it a quad USB 2.0 and a dual USB 3.0 for 6 USB connection total front. I am also planning on making a audio/mic port for him.  

 

I am glad you finally were abile to buy the motherboard tray and the back panel. As soon as i am done with the front panel I will start on the back using my ATX board as a stand in for the mATX. 

 

Thanks man ^_^

But you do not enough of the  ports on the back of the mobo?

 

However, for the front, you know this:

 

http://www.thelaserh...-for-g5mac-pro/



#40
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Thanks man ^_^

But you do not enough of the  ports on the back of the mobo?

 

However, for the front, you know this:

 

http://www.thelaserh...-for-g5mac-pro/

Lol the back port will be hardly used much only for external hard drive, keyboard and mouse or any other thing. Having enough front port will be better since he will not have to reach for the back to get to the back ports. 

 

I know about that It is nice looking but not what I really want to use which is why I am making my own. I think I remember seeing somewhere a template for the front port I/O panel somewhere. 







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