idividebyzero Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 I installed iATKOS and it went by without a hitch... heres how I did it. This applies only to iATKOS. This guide is noob compatible, if you arent a noob and dont want to read the details you can skim it and just look out for the words in red. My config: GA-965P-S3 with F12 BIOS Core 2 Duo e4300 OC'd@2.4ghz SATA hdd EVGA 7600GT External USB DVD-RW (I have NOT tried an IDE DVD, so I dont know if iAtkos supports jmicron) BIOS settings: Integrated Periphirals - AHCI: ENABLED - SATA Native Mode: ENABLED You MUST connect your HDD to the yellow ports on the motherboard that are not next to the Purple ones when using iATKOS, the purple and the bottom yellow ports will not see the HDD in the installer. After installation you can move the HDD to the other ports. See the attachment for what ports to use during installation. Installation Boot the iATKOS DVD (keep in mind I'm using a USB dvdrom). After selecting the language go to the menu bar and choose Utilities>Disk Utility, select the partition you want as OS X and under the Erase tab give it a name and choose HFS+ Journaled. If you want to create a new partition then select the HDD itself (the name that isnt indented) and partition it using MBR. Furthermore if you want to have a partition thats NTFS on the same drive as OS X then you must erase that partition as FAT and then after installation boot into Windows and format the FAT partition once more as NTFS. Windows doesnt seem to like formatting HFS+ partitions, its much less buggy converting FAT to NTFS. After erasing the partition in Disk Utility, click the Leopard partition and then click Info, under Disk Identifier it will say something like Disk0s1, write that down or memorize it. Close Disk Utility. Go back to the menu bar and choose Utilities>Darwin Boot Script. Follow the instructions... when it gets to where you tell it your Disk this is where you need the info you got from Disk Identifier. If what you wrote down was Disk0s1 then you must enter 1 at the first prompt even though in reality your disk is 0. If it was Disk1s1 then you would enter 2, basically for the first prompt only you need to enter a number that is one above your actual disk. You will see it verify the correct disk in the automated response, if it is not the correct disk or if its blank then DO NOT CONTINUE, restart the process. For the next prompt that asks for the partition enter 1 if your ID was Disk0s1. Just enter the same number the ID said as the s#. Choose to install EFI since you most likely have a Core 2 Duo or similair (if you have a Pentium then make sure its compatible with EFI first). Let the script finish and then quit Terminal. You are now ready to install Leopard. Click next and select the Leopard partition you just created, click next again and then at the bottom corner choose Customize. Customize: - Since you installed EFI make sure you install any vanilla and EFI options, like the vanilla kernel. - Delete thermal kexts! Leaving these will cause the CPU to go up 10c, I have confirmed this. I get 39c without them and 49c with them. - Choose the right video kexts for your GPU. - Leave everything else unchecked (audio works as is, you dont need the Azalia option) Install, it should take around 15-20 minutes, do not freakout if it does nothing at the beginning for a long time, its normal that the progress gets "stuck" at like 5% for around 5 minutes. The screen may "freeze" after like 10 minutes of not moving the mouse too, just move the mouse to wake it back up to check the current progress. After installation you may move your HDD back to the purple ports if thats where you want them (I installed on an older SATA drive that freaks out with AHCI enabled, so I have to use the purple ports without AHCI). Post Installation You will be taken to the standard setup screen. Choose LAN for the internet stuff, click next at the next screen without entering anything about your connection, keep clicking next until you get to the registration screen (name/address/etc), press CMD+Q to skip registration. Select a username/pw at the next screen and youll be brought to the desktop. Audio should work. Network will not. You may want to first go to System Preferences>Keyboard & Mouse and adjust the modifier keys if your CTRL/OPT/CMD keys are in the wrong order. Your keys should be: CTRL=CTRL, Start=Option, ALT = Command. My OPT and CMD keys were switched so I had to change them. To get network working you must open Terminal.app and copy/paste these 2 lines: sudo nano /System/Library/Extensions/IONetworkingFamily.kext/Contents/PlugIns/AppleYukon2.kext/Contents/Info.plist (ctrl+W = Search; ctrl+O = save; ctrl+X = exit; use arrow keys to move cursor) search for 8053 and replace with 8056 search for 4362 and replace with 4364 save and exit quit terminal Open Disk Utility, select the Leopard partition and Repair Permissions, restart when its finished. After restart go to System Preferences and then the Network settings. Is there an option that says Ethernet with a Green orb? If so then internet should be working. If not then click on the +, choose Ethernet as the Interface then Create, hit Apply, after a few seconds the orb should turn green and you can delete the other entries. If that doesnt work then double check the entries you made when modifying the Networking kext above. Thats it, you should have a full working Leopard install, official Apple updates are safe to install. Whats next? If you go to "About this Mac" you will see that the Apple logo was changed, plus some text. Plus theres a weird app in the System Preferences. Thats easy to revert if you want. Changing the logo Download the attached Apple image. Press CMD+SHIFT+G, paste /System/Library/CoreServices/loginwindow.app/Contents/Resources/, replace the iATKOS MacOSX.tif with the default one in this post. Changing the text in About this Mac Go to /System/Library/CoreServices/ using CMD+SHIFT+G, open SystemVersion.plist with Textedit and remove any of the text relating to iATKOS. This is what the text should be like (should say 10.5.1): http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2419/picture1zu3.png Remove the monitoring app from System Prefs Go to Library/PreferencePanes, delete the file. Repair Permissions with Disk Utility just for kicks and logout, all changes should be back to stock. MacOSX.tif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Konami® Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Thanks, nice guide! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chutsu Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 So does everything work accordingly? like sound network, shutting down, sleep etc etc etc..without any hitches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilhood Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 excellent guide, very well written Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idividebyzero Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Shut down works at random, like with pretty much everyone. Sleep works fine. Line-in does not work for audio. Everything else does. Its virtually 100% compatible with the exception of the line-in for recording, shut down most likely is not a hardware problem since it happens to everyone. The only edit you have to make is to the network kext. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anibalin Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 good guide. do you happen to know how to delete the thermal kexts post instalation? I didnt delete them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idividebyzero Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Delete AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement.kext and AppleCPUThermo.kext in the extensions folder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilhood Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 Incidentally, getting rid of the iATKOS 'About this Mac' customizations actually fixes problems with a few apps that try to detect which version of OS X you are using. e.g. CandyBar P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oracle100 Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Excellent guide! I have the same setup as you: GA-965P-S3 with F12 BIOS Core 2 Duo e4300 @1.8ghz SATA hdd EVGA 7600GT 2G DDR2 800 Was able to install Kalyway without a hitch (sound, video, net and reboot worked form the start). I have several questions (which may not be related to this forum... Sorry). 1. Gigabit LAN is not working on my MB, only "100 base TX" setting works. Do you have any way of activating Gigabit LAN (1000 base TX)? 2. Digital sound output does not work, only regular sound. 3. I am a complete OC newbie and failed after many attempts. Can you share your exact OC settings? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robotskip Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Different computer (Though I still have my previous PC which has that mobo) but I just want to say thank you for help removing the iATKOS changes, like About This Mac and so on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idividebyzero Posted January 13, 2008 Author Share Posted January 13, 2008 I only connect my DSL modem up to the computer, I dont have a network or a router so I dont know anything about the LAN stuff other than it works for internet. And I only use headphones. The audio seems rather limited though considering line-in doesnt work. I dont even use the crappy onboard sound in Windows, I have a Soundblaster X-FI for that. It doesnt sound that good compared to my X-Fi but its acceptable, the bass is just lacking a little. For overclocking I wasnt looking for a massive overclock, I wanted something thats fast by todays standard but still cool enough to keep the fan quiet. I set the CPU Host frequency to 266 (the multiplier/clockratio is 9, so 266*9=2394mhz which reads as 2.4ghz). Then changed the memory multiplier so it was 667 (you always have to change this when changing the FSB, if you dont then it wants your 800mhz ram to run at like 1000mhz and that just wont boot). Keep DDR 800 ram under 800, keep DDR 667 under 667. For voltage I used 1.075v (you want to go as low as possible since lower volts means a cooler processor, if you go too low then it wont boot or youll get a bluescreen when booting windows). I left everything else alone, I dont know enough about the ram Im using to mess with the timings or the volts. Ive also done 289 FSB at 1.141 something volts. Thats 2.6ghz. That gave me temps of 40c and 42c for each core using the stock heatsink, anything less than 47c and the fan spins at a low speed which is nice and quiet, so I have enough room for normal usage for the temps to raise a few degrees without the fan kicking into medium. The higher the clock the higher the voltage needs to be, anything under 1.325 is safe since thats the default value, going over that for the big overclocks will be really hot without a good heatsink. If you mess up the OC and it wont boot then you just clear the CMOS, which is located right next to the battery. Either use a jumper to clear it or touch the 2 prongs with something metal like a knife (much easier). Clearing it sets the BIOS settings back to default so youll have to change everything back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaspoli Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Hi All, my 965P-DS3 is working nice and very quick. But what i want to know is,.. I is possible to make it to work 4 x SATA an 2 IDE? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oracle100 Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 I only connect my DSL modem up to the computer, I dont have a network or a router so I dont know anything about the LAN stuff other than it works for internet. And I only use headphones. The audio seems rather limited though considering line-in doesnt work. I dont even use the crappy onboard sound in Windows, I have a Soundblaster X-FI for that. It doesnt sound that good compared to my X-Fi but its acceptable, the bass is just lacking a little. For overclocking I wasnt looking for a massive overclock, I wanted something thats fast by todays standard but still cool enough to keep the fan quiet. I set the CPU Host frequency to 266 (the multiplier/clockratio is 9, so 266*9=2394mhz which reads as 2.4ghz). Then changed the memory multiplier so it was 667 (you always have to change this when changing the FSB, if you dont then it wants your 800mhz ram to run at like 1000mhz and that just wont boot). Keep DDR 800 ram under 800, keep DDR 667 under 667. For voltage I used 1.075v (you want to go as low as possible since lower volts means a cooler processor, if you go too low then it wont boot or youll get a bluescreen when booting windows). I left everything else alone, I dont know enough about the ram Im using to mess with the timings or the volts. I've also done 289 FSB at 1.141 something volts. Thats 2.6ghz. That gave me temps of 40c and 42c for each core using the stock heatsink, anything less than 47c and the fan spins at a low speed which is nice and quiet, so I have enough room for normal usage for the temps to raise a few degrees without the fan kicking into medium. The higher the clock the higher the voltage needs to be, anything under 1.325 is safe since thats the default value, going over that for the big overclocks will be really hot without a good heatsink. If you mess up the OC and it wont boot then you just clear the CMOS, which is located right next to the battery. Either use a jumper to clear it or touch the 2 prongs with something metal like a knife (much easier). Clearing it sets the BIOS settings back to default so youll have to change everything back. Thanks for the detailed info. I took your advice and presto! My OC has been stable so far. I set CPU frequency to 266 and lowered my voltage to 1.165V (tried 1.075V and 1.141V and neither would boot). All this time I had the notion that if I raised the CPU clock, I had to increase voltage over stock 1.325 Volts. I guessed wrong. I set the DDR2 multiplier to 3.00 to keep the DDR frequency at 800. I left everything else to "Normal". So far so good. The temp does not go higher than 39C, not bad. I tried forcing the Ethernet setting to 1000X manually but no dice. It wants to default to 100X. Oh well... As far as sound I guess I'll stick to "Stereo" (2 speaker output). Good enough for now. Well, thanks again. I'm so excited since this is the first time I've had a successful OC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtavares Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Incidentally, getting rid of the iATKOS 'About this Mac' customizations actually fixes problems with a few apps that try to detect which version of OS X you are using.e.g. CandyBar P. How do you get rid of the iATKOS customizations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robotskip Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 How do you get rid of the iATKOS customizations?It says in the first post.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farx Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Remove the monitoring app from System PrefsGo to Library/PreferencePanes, delete the file. Could you Tell me Why to Remove the monitoring app? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ardman Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 One thing that is not mentioned on this and that is what version of iATKOS are you using? 1.0 r1, 1.0 r2, 2.0i??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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