Jump to content

Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 Leopard


idividebyzero
 Share

17 posts in this topic

Recommended Posts

I installed iATKOS and it went by without a hitch... heres how I did it. This applies only to iATKOS. This guide is noob compatible, if you arent a noob and dont want to read the details you can skim it and just look out for the words in red.

 

My config:

GA-965P-S3 with F12 BIOS

Core 2 Duo e4300 OC'd@2.4ghz

SATA hdd

EVGA 7600GT

External USB DVD-RW (I have NOT tried an IDE DVD, so I dont know if iAtkos supports jmicron)

 

BIOS settings:

Integrated Periphirals

- AHCI: ENABLED

- SATA Native Mode: ENABLED

 

You MUST connect your HDD to the yellow ports on the motherboard that are not next to the Purple ones when using iATKOS, the purple and the bottom yellow ports will not see the HDD in the installer. After installation you can move the HDD to the other ports. See the attachment for what ports to use during installation.

 

 

Installation

 

Boot the iATKOS DVD (keep in mind I'm using a USB dvdrom). After selecting the language go to the menu bar and choose Utilities>Disk Utility, select the partition you want as OS X and under the Erase tab give it a name and choose HFS+ Journaled. If you want to create a new partition then select the HDD itself (the name that isnt indented) and partition it using MBR. Furthermore if you want to have a partition thats NTFS on the same drive as OS X then you must erase that partition as FAT and then after installation boot into Windows and format the FAT partition once more as NTFS. Windows doesnt seem to like formatting HFS+ partitions, its much less buggy converting FAT to NTFS.

 

After erasing the partition in Disk Utility, click the Leopard partition and then click Info, under Disk Identifier it will say something like Disk0s1, write that down or memorize it. Close Disk Utility.

 

Go back to the menu bar and choose Utilities>Darwin Boot Script. Follow the instructions... when it gets to where you tell it your Disk this is where you need the info you got from Disk Identifier. If what you wrote down was Disk0s1 then you must enter 1 at the first prompt even though in reality your disk is 0. If it was Disk1s1 then you would enter 2, basically for the first prompt only you need to enter a number that is one above your actual disk. You will see it verify the correct disk in the automated response, if it is not the correct disk or if its blank then DO NOT CONTINUE, restart the process.

 

For the next prompt that asks for the partition enter 1 if your ID was Disk0s1. Just enter the same number the ID said as the s#.

 

Choose to install EFI since you most likely have a Core 2 Duo or similair (if you have a Pentium then make sure its compatible with EFI first). Let the script finish and then quit Terminal.

 

You are now ready to install Leopard. Click next and select the Leopard partition you just created, click next again and then at the bottom corner choose Customize.

 

Customize:

- Since you installed EFI make sure you install any vanilla and EFI options, like the vanilla kernel.

- Delete thermal kexts! Leaving these will cause the CPU to go up 10c, I have confirmed this. I get 39c without them and 49c with them.

- Choose the right video kexts for your GPU.

- Leave everything else unchecked (audio works as is, you dont need the Azalia option)

 

Install, it should take around 15-20 minutes, do not freakout if it does nothing at the beginning for a long time, its normal that the progress gets "stuck" at like 5% for around 5 minutes. The screen may "freeze" after like 10 minutes of not moving the mouse too, just move the mouse to wake it back up to check the current progress. After installation you may move your HDD back to the purple ports if thats where you want them (I installed on an older SATA drive that freaks out with AHCI enabled, so I have to use the purple ports without AHCI).

 

 

Post Installation

 

You will be taken to the standard setup screen. Choose LAN for the internet stuff, click next at the next screen without entering anything about your connection, keep clicking next until you get to the registration screen (name/address/etc), press CMD+Q to skip registration. Select a username/pw at the next screen and youll be brought to the desktop.

 

Audio should work. Network will not. You may want to first go to System Preferences>Keyboard & Mouse and adjust the modifier keys if your CTRL/OPT/CMD keys are in the wrong order. Your keys should be: CTRL=CTRL, Start=Option, ALT = Command. My OPT and CMD keys were switched so I had to change them.

 

To get network working you must open Terminal.app and copy/paste these 2 lines:

sudo nano /System/Library/Extensions/IONetworkingFamily.kext/Contents/PlugIns/AppleYukon2.kext/Contents/Info.plist

(ctrl+W = Search; ctrl+O = save; ctrl+X = exit; use arrow keys to move cursor)

search for 8053 and replace with 8056

search for 4362 and replace with 4364

save and exit

quit terminal

 

Open Disk Utility, select the Leopard partition and Repair Permissions, restart when its finished.

 

After restart go to System Preferences and then the Network settings. Is there an option that says Ethernet with a Green orb? If so then internet should be working. If not then click on the +, choose Ethernet as the Interface then Create, hit Apply, after a few seconds the orb should turn green and you can delete the other entries. If that doesnt work then double check the entries you made when modifying the Networking kext above.

 

Thats it, you should have a full working Leopard install, official Apple updates are safe to install.

 

Whats next? If you go to "About this Mac" you will see that the Apple logo was changed, plus some text. Plus theres a weird app in the System Preferences. Thats easy to revert if you want.

 

Changing the logo

Download the attached Apple image. Press CMD+SHIFT+G, paste /System/Library/CoreServices/loginwindow.app/Contents/Resources/, replace the iATKOS MacOSX.tif with the default one in this post.

 

Changing the text in About this Mac

Go to /System/Library/CoreServices/ using CMD+SHIFT+G, open SystemVersion.plist with Textedit and remove any of the text relating to iATKOS. This is what the text should be like (should say 10.5.1): http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2419/picture1zu3.png

 

Remove the monitoring app from System Prefs

Go to Library/PreferencePanes, delete the file.

 

Repair Permissions with Disk Utility just for kicks and logout, all changes should be back to stock.

post-88108-1199764062_thumb.jpg

MacOSX.tif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shut down works at random, like with pretty much everyone. Sleep works fine. Line-in does not work for audio. Everything else does.

 

Its virtually 100% compatible with the exception of the line-in for recording, shut down most likely is not a hardware problem since it happens to everyone. The only edit you have to make is to the network kext.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent guide!

 

I have the same setup as you:

GA-965P-S3 with F12 BIOS

Core 2 Duo e4300 @1.8ghz

SATA hdd

EVGA 7600GT

2G DDR2 800

 

Was able to install Kalyway without a hitch (sound, video, net and reboot worked form the start).

 

I have several questions (which may not be related to this forum... Sorry).

1. Gigabit LAN is not working on my MB, only "100 base TX" setting works. Do you have any way of activating Gigabit LAN (1000 base TX)?

2. Digital sound output does not work, only regular sound.

3. I am a complete OC newbie :blink: and failed after many attempts. Can you share your exact OC settings?

 

Thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only connect my DSL modem up to the computer, I dont have a network or a router so I dont know anything about the LAN stuff other than it works for internet.

 

And I only use headphones. The audio seems rather limited though considering line-in doesnt work. I dont even use the crappy onboard sound in Windows, I have a Soundblaster X-FI for that. It doesnt sound that good compared to my X-Fi but its acceptable, the bass is just lacking a little.

 

For overclocking I wasnt looking for a massive overclock, I wanted something thats fast by todays standard but still cool enough to keep the fan quiet.

 

I set the CPU Host frequency to 266 (the multiplier/clockratio is 9, so 266*9=2394mhz which reads as 2.4ghz). Then changed the memory multiplier so it was 667 (you always have to change this when changing the FSB, if you dont then it wants your 800mhz ram to run at like 1000mhz and that just wont boot). Keep DDR 800 ram under 800, keep DDR 667 under 667. For voltage I used 1.075v (you want to go as low as possible since lower volts means a cooler processor, if you go too low then it wont boot or youll get a bluescreen when booting windows). I left everything else alone, I dont know enough about the ram Im using to mess with the timings or the volts.

 

Ive also done 289 FSB at 1.141 something volts. Thats 2.6ghz. That gave me temps of 40c and 42c for each core using the stock heatsink, anything less than 47c and the fan spins at a low speed which is nice and quiet, so I have enough room for normal usage for the temps to raise a few degrees without the fan kicking into medium. The higher the clock the higher the voltage needs to be, anything under 1.325 is safe since thats the default value, going over that for the big overclocks will be really hot without a good heatsink.

 

If you mess up the OC and it wont boot then you just clear the CMOS, which is located right next to the battery. Either use a jumper to clear it or touch the 2 prongs with something metal like a knife (much easier). Clearing it sets the BIOS settings back to default so youll have to change everything back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only connect my DSL modem up to the computer, I dont have a network or a router so I dont know anything about the LAN stuff other than it works for internet.

 

And I only use headphones. The audio seems rather limited though considering line-in doesnt work. I dont even use the crappy onboard sound in Windows, I have a Soundblaster X-FI for that. It doesnt sound that good compared to my X-Fi but its acceptable, the bass is just lacking a little.

 

For overclocking I wasnt looking for a massive overclock, I wanted something thats fast by todays standard but still cool enough to keep the fan quiet.

 

I set the CPU Host frequency to 266 (the multiplier/clockratio is 9, so 266*9=2394mhz which reads as 2.4ghz). Then changed the memory multiplier so it was 667 (you always have to change this when changing the FSB, if you dont then it wants your 800mhz ram to run at like 1000mhz and that just wont boot). Keep DDR 800 ram under 800, keep DDR 667 under 667. For voltage I used 1.075v (you want to go as low as possible since lower volts means a cooler processor, if you go too low then it wont boot or youll get a bluescreen when booting windows). I left everything else alone, I dont know enough about the ram Im using to mess with the timings or the volts.

 

I've also done 289 FSB at 1.141 something volts. Thats 2.6ghz. That gave me temps of 40c and 42c for each core using the stock heatsink, anything less than 47c and the fan spins at a low speed which is nice and quiet, so I have enough room for normal usage for the temps to raise a few degrees without the fan kicking into medium. The higher the clock the higher the voltage needs to be, anything under 1.325 is safe since thats the default value, going over that for the big overclocks will be really hot without a good heatsink.

 

If you mess up the OC and it wont boot then you just clear the CMOS, which is located right next to the battery. Either use a jumper to clear it or touch the 2 prongs with something metal like a knife (much easier). Clearing it sets the BIOS settings back to default so youll have to change everything back.

 

Thanks for the detailed info.

 

I took your advice and presto! My OC has been stable so far. I set CPU frequency to 266 and lowered my voltage to 1.165V (tried 1.075V and 1.141V and neither would boot). All this time I had the notion that if I raised the CPU clock, I had to increase voltage over stock 1.325 Volts. I guessed wrong.

 

I set the DDR2 multiplier to 3.00 to keep the DDR frequency at 800. I left everything else to "Normal".

 

So far so good. The temp does not go higher than 39C, not bad.

 

I tried forcing the Ethernet setting to 1000X manually but no dice. It wants to default to 100X. Oh well...

 

As far as sound I guess I'll stick to "Stereo" (2 speaker output). Good enough for now.

 

Well, thanks again. I'm so excited since this is the first time I've had a successful OC. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...