How to fit PC in a G5 PowerMac enclosure :> Options

[olinboy1]

The s-ground (shielding) has nothing to do with the power button. The s-grounds are for shielding the usb and firewire cables. The one I labelled as firewire true ground is the actual firewire ground, and by the way, if people are not going to bother wiring the firewire, they should prolly run the fw ground to a usb or firewire ground on their mobo instead of their power button ground.

.... but I am inclined to say that I can only condone using my pinout as long as people are going wire up everything just like I have it.... it works flawlessly for me, but I have it all connected just like you see in the diagram... I never tried running the FW ground to the power button ground, so I don't know for sure if that makes a difference.

Nervouschimp, I've soldered and extended all the wires from the front panel except for the two that are marked as s-grounds. My question is about where you have wired these two pins (5 & 6)? I know the original diagram says CHASSIS, so can i just extend these and have them ground to a standoff screw or something like that? Also, have you (or anyone else that has this completed for that matter) seen any degradation in signal quality or transfer speed because many of these wires have been un-twisted from a twisted pair or the shielding has been removed?

Thank you for doing the hard work in making and posting the edits to the wiring grid in the first place!

Attached File(s)

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[teknojunkie]

i just didnt connect the s ground works fine.

[nervouschimp]

Nervouschimp, I've soldered and extended all the wires from the front panel except for the two that are marked as s-grounds. My question is about where you have wired these two pins (5 & 6)? I know the original diagram says CHASSIS, so can i just extend these and have them ground to a standoff screw or something like that? Also, have you (or anyone else that has this completed for that matter) seen any degradation in signal quality or transfer speed because many of these wires have been un-twisted from a twisted pair or the shielding has been removed?

Thank you for doing the hard work in making and posting the edits to the wiring grid in the first place!

The shield ground may not be needed, but I used shielded firewire, and usb cables, and both include a shield wire. There is usually one shield pin per usbx2 header on the average motherboard, and every firewire header should have a shield pin. A shield wire is generalally used when the data pairs are run together with voltage and ground, and I think it is actually the voltage and ground that create all the noise that can effect the data lines, and somehow the shield wire helps to cancel that out. If your wires are not isolated into individual cables, and are loose speghetti, then I'm guessing that a shield wire will do nothing for you. Again, I am using quality cables, so I can't comment on whether you will seen any noticible transfer issues. It might depend on the length of your wires and the amount of EMI bouncing around in your case.

But I am no expert on this stuff, so don't take my word for it.

[nervouschimp]

Man, you have got to love newegg. Ordered my parts over the weekend, and they arrived today. So it looks like I need to get my case finished up.

[teknojunkie]

sweet lets see this.

[HacOSXuser]

yeah nervouschimp! lets see that thing

[nervouschimp]

My tray is pretty much done, but not filed.



I riveted 3 tabs to the tray, 2 short and one long. The long one lines up with the original screw holes on the bottom of the G5.







I also got my rear fans installed:

[teknojunkie]

looking very good are those fans like silent because im thinking of getting them.

[nervouschimp]

looking very good are those fans like silent because im thinking of getting them.

I have not fired them up yet, so not sure.... but I imagine they are pretty quiet.

[nervouschimp]

I think I've decided I want to go with an internally mounted Edirol FA-66 for my audio. It has everything I need for the front back and panels, and is firewire bus-powered, and small... perfect..... except, expensive, and I'm kind of at the edge of my budget.

I'm also supposed to be working on some higher-poly models for my portfolio this weekend, instead of this hackintosh, so I'm not sure If I'll get anything done.... but every time I walk past the pile of new parts, still in their packaging, I get all excited.

I realized I don't have any sata cables long enough, and still need a few more Arctic fans, so maybe I'll put this off til next weekend....

[nervouschimp]

It's up and and running. Don't mind the mess.



My Q6600 went to 3.2 straight away on stock voltages, but the temps concern me a little. It idles at 45C. I thought I did a good job of seating the heat sink. This seems a bit high. Kaly 10.2 install was very smooth, and I think only the audio is not working out of the box.

My initial xbench score was 217.

I have already decided I like being able to reach under the bottom to switch off the PSU before playing with the internals.

[HacOSXuser]

my Q6600 is lapped, and i have an arctic cooling freezer pro 7 and arctic silver 5 and my idle temperatures are around 45C. im OC to 3.2 as well lol.

[nervouschimp]

my Q6600 is lapped, and i have an arctic cooling freezer pro 7 and arctic silver 5 and my idle temperatures are around 45C. im OC to 3.2 as well lol.

damn.... so that's a normal temp?

I think I've read that this cooler has a kind of high idle, but doesn't raise much under load so I guess I should worry about it..... but I wanna try 3.6.... eh, that may be overkill.

The thing is, the heat sink is cool to the touch, with makes me think it's not seated correctly....

[teknojunkie]

NEXT STEP ORGANIZATION lol

[HacOSXuser]

my heatsink isn't very hot either. i remember alot of forums i have read said the q6600 just runs hot.
supposibly hitting like 70c is normal

[olinboy1]

I updated the wiring diagram a little bit for myself to try and make it as simple as I could. If anyone has any tips or suggestions to add to this to streamline it even more, let me know and I will update it.

[ѕӎѳѳҭңӌ]

Over the weekend i managed to make the replacement I/O back panel. I won't use this one as i will mill out the finished one when i get back to school, but this is the basic design. Excuse the shitty iphone camera!
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 IMG_0004.JPG ( 425.11K ) Number of downloads: 97

[HacOSXuser]

does that cover up the entire back of the G5 enclosure?

[ѕӎѳѳҭңӌ]

does that cover up the entire back of the G5 enclosure?

No, i will make a cut out on the back of the case to the exact size of the I/O plate. I will fasten it to the case from behind with some aluminium strips. Doing it this way it will appear flush with the existing G5 rear. I'm gonna 'perforate' this test back plate to see how it looks and how strong it is. Could look quite good.

I'll post some pics when i'm done, but im not gonna cut the case until i have made the final backpanel otherwise there will end up being gaps which i dont want!

[nervouschimp]

olinboy1: thanks for that diagram, good work.... I never bothered with the audio, so thanks for the contribution!

smoothy boothy, looks cool.... but.... if you wanna perforate, and you have access to a machine shop, why not go for the gold, and cut out the entire back mesh section from where it meets the solid top and bottom planes, make a whole replacement perforated back piece, bend it to match the rounded corners, and have tabs that match up with the internal fasteners that run around the sides? That would be awesome.